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Southern Peru, July 2012 (1 Viewer)

aythya_hybrid

real name Jonathan Dean
Peru,
6-22 July 2012

This is a report detailing the various birds I saw in Peru in July 2012. The trip was a package tour, "Majestic Peru", organised by Intrepid. It was therefore not primarily a birding holiday, but a combination of history, culture and some nature/wildlife. Had the trip consisted of wall to wall birding, I would doubtless have seen lots more birds. However, a good selection of species was seen. I'm sure there are lots of common birds I missed, and whilst I did some prior preparation/research, much of my birding time was spend frantically flicking through the Princeton field guide to Birds of Peru, which was an invaluable resource, although some of the illustrations (e.g. Rufous-collared Sparrow and Titicaca Grebe) leave a little to be desired. Most birds I managed to identify ok, although some I only managed to narrow down to species pairs and a few were identified in part on the basis of range and habitat. Thus, although I'm pretty happy with most bird identifications, I concede there might be one or two howlers in there. But I hope not. Please do help out if you spot anything weird/anomalous.

Also, as the trip was not primarily a birding trip, much of the birding was a little constrained and opportunistic. This meant that some birds I only saw for a fairly short period of time (e.g. from a moving bus, or before running to catch up with the rest of the group), and so many species I would have liked to examine in a more leisurely and less frantic manner, but overall I was happy, and I managed to find several star species. Birds I hoped to see but didn't included Peruvian Thick-Knee, Andean Cock of the Rock and Masked Fruiteater.

Peru is amazing for birding: very few species were seen throughout the trip. Instead, each location has a different avifauna.

OK, so, here goes:


7 July

Miraflores, Lima

We arrived in Lima late on the 6th and went straight to our hotel in Miraflores, the affluent neighbourhood by the sea south of the city centre. From our hotel in the morning I saw:

West Peruvian Dove - proved to be abundant everywhere on the coast
Croaking Ground Dove - a smart little dove, also very common in most areas
Bananaquit - common in Lima, apparently a feral population
Vermillion Flycatcher - common in Lima, but most are of the all dark morph. The striking red morph was more common in coastal rural areas.
Blue Gray Tanager - seemingly fairly common in the Lima area, but apparently a feral population.
Southern Beardless Tyrannulet - one in the bush right outside our hotel
Southern House Wren - common pretty much everywhere in Peru
Blue Black Grassquit - seen multiple times in Lima but not elsewhere

Around Miraflores:
Blue and White Swallow - common here and pretty much everywhere in Peru
Black Vulture - common in Lima but gets replaced by Turkey Vulture further south
Pacific Parrotlet - a few seen badly around Miraflores, feral.
Amazilla Hummingbird - one seen fairly well in Parque Kennedy, and odd ones seen around Lima, but not elsewhere
Long-tailed Mockingbird - common in Lima and in all coastal areas
Shiny Cowbird - several seen around Miraflores but nowhere else in Peru
Scrub Blackbird?? - fairly sure I saw at least one of this species near Huaca Pucclana but couldn't rule out above species.
Eared Dove - common in Lima and seen regularly throughout the trip
American Kestrel - seen multiple times in Lima and throughout the ip
Tropical Kingbird - common in Lima

Late afternoon we made our way to the seaside in Miraflores and saw:
Peruvian Booby - common here and everywhere along the coast
Peruvian Pelican - conspicuous here and everywhere along the coast, but less numerous than the above
Grey Gull - a smart gull, and common all along the coast
Inca Tern - superb birds, very common all along the coast but deceptively similar to the above species in flight and at range
Band-tailed Gull - pretty common, not very exciting
Neotropic Cormorant - common here and in most parts of Peru


8 July

Miraflores and Barranco

Today we walked around the lovely Barranco district south of Miraflores. We saw several of the same species from yesterday and I heroically added House Sparrow and the ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrow to the trip list. Several Amazilla Hummingbirds, Blue Black Grassquit and Southern Beardless Tyrannulet were seen around Barranco.


9 July

Lima to Paracas

By this time we had met up with our tour group and had a long early morning bus trip to the town of Paracas south of Lima. En route I saw:

Cattle Egret - seen multiple times throughout but never abundant
Grey-hooded Gull - fairly common in coastal areas but also never abundant

Islas Ballestas

A major birding highlight was our trip to the Ballestas Islands, big guano covered rocks off the coast. Our boat trip lasted less than 2 hours but it was a bonanza of seabirds. Peruvian Booby, Peruvian Pelican, Gray Gull and Inca Tern were abundant. New birds seen included:

Snowy Egret - 1 on the beach at Paracas and odd ones seen repeatedly throughout the trip
American Oystercatcher - 1 on the beach was the only one of the trip
Turkey Vulture - very common in coastal areas
Kelp Gull - a few hanging out with Band-tailed Gulls on the beach and on the islands
Guanay Cormorant - a smart bird and super-abundant on some parts of the islands
Red-legged Cormorant - a real speciality of the area and probably the best cormorant in the world. Maybe around 20 seen

Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes - yeah! The first Peruvian endemic of the trip. One seen fairly distantly on the mainland from the boat and then another seen better on one of the islands. Not the most spectacular looking bird though. Looks like a big rock pipit.
Humboldt Penguin - my first wild penguins. Lots of them, probably about 60, the majority hanging out on a pebbly beach, but the closest ones were on a ledge on the main island. Also one seen swimming fairly close to the shore on return journey.
Blackish Oystercatcher - 1 seen reasonably well from the boat.
Sooty Shearwater - about 5 seen from boat on return journey.
Chilean Skua - 1 seen well but briefly on return journey. Not really seen well enough to distinguish from other similar skuas but the only one likely in this area.
Peruvian Diving Petrel - one seen very badly on journey out, another seen much better whizzing past close to the boat on return journey. Would have passed it off as a Guillemot if I had seen it in Europe!

Paracas to Huacachina

From Paracas we drove south through the astonishingly dry and largely birdless coastal desert until we reached Huacachina, a kind of oasis resort. En route I spied a few Groove-billed Anis in roadside bushes, a lifer after having seen Smooth-billed in Brazil (only GBA occurs in this area).

At Huacachina I saw Tropical Kingbird and added the following species:
Moorhen - common in all wet areas
Great Egret - didn't see that many
Black-crowned Night Heron - odd ones seen periodically throughout the trip
White-crested Elaenia - Elaenias are always hard work for any visiting birder to South America, but I was pretty happy with my views of this one individual if the modesta subspecies feeding high in a treetop.

Nazca

Late afternoon we saw the famous Nazca Lines and I added the distinctive Andean Swift to the trip list, which I saw every now and then during the rest of the trip but it was never terribly numerous.


10 July

Chauchilla cemetery, Nazca

Our visit to this spectacular pre Inca burial site in the coastal desert near Nazca produced:
Coastal Miner - about 10 of this subtle but attractive endemic, some showing very well.
Burrowing Owl - 2 perched motionless in the rocky desert.

Puerto Inca

We spent much of the day driving south to the small coastal settlement of Puerto Inca, where we spent the night in a lovely seaside hotel. Lots of seabirds but no additional species: Peruvian Booby, Peruvian Pelican, Inca Tern, Guanay Cormorant, Grey Gull, Blackish Oystercatcher and even a few Red-legged Cormorants.


11 July

Puerto Inca

In the morning I saw more of the same seabirds and also had amazing views of a Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes around the hotel, which at one point even took temporary refuge under our breakfast table.

Over the course of the day we drove along the still largely birdless desert coastline to Arequipa. En route I saw one Little Blue Heron from the bus, and saw my first Variable Hawk just outside Arequipa. The latter was seen now and then throughout, but always from a moving vehicle and so was never seen very well!


12 July

Arequipa

We spent today sightseeing in the lovely city of Arequipa. In so doing I saw:
Peruvian Sheartail - one male with a long tail seen briefly in the main square. Would have liked better views but had sightseeing duties to attend to!
Chiguanco Thrush - a nice species which proved to be one the most common species in the uplands, seen almost every day.


13 July

Arequipa to Puno

Today we cut inland and headed over spectacular terrain to reach Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca. En route we stopped at a service area on a high (4000m) plateau where I saw a few nice birds.

Mountain Caracara - I was delighted at how common these great birds were in the highlands. Often hanging out together in big groups
Puna Yellow Finch - a group of about a dozen were feeding together around the car park.
Common Miner - quite a few were seen in the high areas near Arequipa. Quite a bit darker than the Coastal Miners.
Bar-winged Cinclodes - great views of two of these squabbling around some bins near the car park.
Black-billed Shrike Tyrant - I got decent flight views of a Shrike Tyrant species multiple times around the car park. Not really seen well enough to conclusively identify but Black-billed is by far the most likely on range.

Whilst travelling across the high Andean plateau between Arequipa and Puno lots of new birds were added to the trip list:
Andean Goose - common and conspicuous hanging out on the shores of small waterbodies
Chilean Flamingo - a total of about 15 were seen distantly on some of the larger lakes
Andean Coot - common, present on more or less all waterbodies of any size
Ash-breasted Sierra Finch - these were fairly common, but it took a roadside toilet stop for me to see one well enough to identify for sure
Slender-billed Miner - one seen during aforementioned toilet stop, which also featured a brush with a spitting alpaca. Views were poor but apparently the only miner to show a very long bill and rufous upperwing.
Andean Gull - very common throughout the Andean region: not radically dissimilar to Black-headed Gull.
Andean Lapwing - very common, seen most days on the trip. Nice birds.
Puna Ibis - this Andean equivalent of Glossy Ibis proved to be common in wetland areas
Puna Teal - a smart duck, fairly common in wetland areas on the higher ground
Ground Tyrant sp - there was a teacher's strike, which slowed us down on the outskirts of Juliaca. In a nearby field I saw 3 Ground Tyrant sp, either Taczinowksi's or Puna, but not well enough to identify for sure as I was looking into the sun and the crown pattern was not visible, alas.

Sillustani Towers:

Before arriving into Puno we visited the famous funeral towers, which has a bird-rich lake alongside. We saw Puna Ibis and Puna Teal, as well as:
White-tufted Grebe - common on water bodies in the Puno area. A really smart bird.
Yellow-billed Teal - took me a while to nail my first one but proved to be common on highland waterbodies.
Peruvian Sierra Finch - a few of these knocking around, which I initially misidentified as Black-hooded Sierra Finch
Cinnamon Teal - fairly common around Puno/Lake Titicaca, and the first time I've seen full adult males in the wild
Ruddy Duck - common! All are of the dark headed variety, which is actually quite smart..
Andean Swallow - I was a bit slow to notice that the "Blue and White" Swallows in this area actually lack dark vents. Seen multiple times in the high areas but nowhere abundant.


14 July

Lake Titicaca

A great day out on Lake Tticaca in lovely weather, a real trip highlight. We got a boat from Puno out to the floating reed islands populated by the Uros people, before pressing on to Taquille Island. The area near to Puno is a fantastic network of marshland and reeds. I saw: Puna Ibis, Puna Teal, Andean Gull, Ruddy Duck, White-tufted Grebes everywhere, Yellow-billed Teal, Andean Coot. New birds included:
Many-coloured Rush Tyrant - common in the reeds and a really spectacular bird, one of the best birds of the trip.
Wren Like Rushbird - less common, less conspicuous and less inspiring than the above
Plumbeous Rail - several of these comical birds were seen in the reeds, and a few were even seen from the bus en route to Cusco the following day.
Andean Negrito - good views of 2 of these feeding on the ground in the marshy areas near Puno, with another seen on the return journey
Yellow-winged Blackbird - common and conspicuous around the floating islands, but not seen anywhere else
Silvery Grebe - a number of these were seen, none terribly close, the majority near the lake shore on approach to Taquille Island
Titicaca Grebe - it took a while but I was eventually able to see about 8 of the lake's famous endemic grebe. Several grebes were really distant and not identifiable to species, but on the return route from Taquille Island I finally nailed one Titicaca Grebe, and saw 2 reasonably well near the boundary of the reeds and the open water. Looks like a glorified red-necked Grebe.

On the lovely Taquille Island I saw:
White-winged Cinclodes - 2 seen really well, including one on the main square at the top of the island
Spot-winged Pigeon - a bit of confusion arose as this species is shown in the book as not occurring in this area, but it was actually quite common, and to some extent replaces West Peruvian Dove in the uplands.
Grassland Yellow Finch? - got a decent view of a female yellow finch species with a prominent malar stripe. Pretty sure it was this species but wouldn't put my house on it.
Black-throated Flowerpiercer - two seen badly. Smart bird though.
Mountain Sierra Finch - one female see well but briefly, momentarily vying for attention with the aforementioned confusing yellow finch
 
15 July

Puno to Cusco

Today we drove across the spectacular high puna, during which I added a number of species to the list from the bus. I saw:

Bare-faced Ground Dove - I think I would have seen more if these if I had studied the pigeons a bit more closely...
Black-winged Ground Dove - ditto, only one conclusively seen, near Juliaca
Andean Flicker - two seen reasonably well - one in flight and one perched - whilst the bus was stationary
Tawny-throated Dotterel - what a fluke! The bus randomly stopped not far from Puno, I had an idle scan of the nearby grassland and got on a group of 5 of these. A bit more distant than I would have liked but a real bonus nonetheless
Yellow-billed Pintail - several seen on high lakes
White-collared Swift - seen a number of times in the Cusco area but never common


16 July

Cusco

A day of sightseeing in the wonderful city of Cusco. Greenish Yellow Finch was added to the list, it proved to be quite common in the Cusco/Sacred Valley area.


17 July

Cusco to Ollantaytambo via Urubamba

Today was spent visiting various communities and points of interest in the sacred valley. I saw:
Peruvian Sierra Finch, yeah
Sparkling Violetear - a smart medium sized hummingbird, seen a number of times and also in Cusco town.
Cinereous Conebill - seen a few times in the Ollantaytambo area
Brown-bellied Swallow - a big group of these was present in Urubamba and odd ones were seen elsewhere
Hooded Siskin - common and conspicuous in this area
White-bellied Hummingbird - one "green and white" hummingbird in Urubamba was probably this species, but see further discussion tomorrow.


18 July

Ollantaytambo

We had spent the night in this lovely town in the Urubamba valley, so I got up early and had some nice morning birding along the road from the town centre to the train station, which runs alongside a stream with trees and vegetation. Lots of birds present, including Hooded Siskin, Cinereous Conebill and Greenish Yellow-finch. I also added the following species to the trip list.

Blue and Yellow Tanager - at least two of these very smart birds loosely associating with other birds
Torrent Tyrannulet - one of these curious creatures seen very well hopping about on rocks in the small stream
Golden-billed Saltator - apparently quite common but this was the only individual of this species at we saw
Rust and Yellow Tanager - two seen well. Nice.
Band-tailed Seedeater - a few of these were knocking around. Smart birds but somewhat overshadowed by the tanagers and hummingbirds.
Trainbearer sp - I got a brief look at a male trainbearer, and a much longer look at a female. However, I hadn't committed the key ID points to memory so couldn't sat for sure whether the birds were Green-tailed or Black-tailed (although I think maybe the former).
"green and white" Hummingbird - aaaargh! These were really troublesome. I saw about 10 of them. Four of them I saw well enough to see the undertail pattern, which is key for distinguishing White-bellied from the endemic Green and White Hummingbird. Curiously, all showed a pattern suggestive of Green and White, with white undertail coverts contrasting sharply with the all dark undertail. However, as far as I am aware White-bellied is more common in this kind of habitat. No idea what's going on.

Train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes:

We got the famous train to Machu Picchu around lunchtime. Here we saw Andean Gull, a few hirundines, 2 Torrent Tyrannulet and also:
Torrent Duck - the star of the journey. Didn't see any until about half an hour in, but saw about 10 in the end, some seen reasonably well. They we concentrated in the area where the river becomes more "torrential" about half an hour from AC.
Black Phoebe - quite common flitting about on the rocks in the river
Dusky Green Oropendula - one seen from the train approaching AC, but proved to be quite common in the forest around there.

Aguas Calientes, mid afternoon

After arriving in AC, I went for a solitary stroll along the Rio Urbamba, heading along the road towards Machu Picchu before bearing right onto the rail track that leads towards Mandor. This route goes through spectacular montane "cloud forest" and is incredibly rich in birdlife. loads of birds were present, and the ones I managed to identify were probably only the tip of the iceberg. I saw:
Hooded Siskin, Band-tailed Seedeater, several Dusky-green Oropendula. I also saw:
Blue-Grey Tanager - these were common and conspicuous. Different subspecies to the ones in Lima, with pale grey on the scapulars and coverts
White-capped Dipper - delighted to see 3 of these frolicking about on the rocks on the river, after failing to see them from the train
Mitred Parakeet - not seen terribly well, but several large groups were seen in flight over the trees
Slate-throated Redstart - really nice birds, probably the most common and conspicuous of the various forest species
Saffron-crowned Tanager - a quintessentially colourful tanager species, at least two seen well early on
Red-eyed Vireo - unusual circumstances under which to add REV to my life list. Reasonable views of 2 or 3 foraging about with tanagers and other things
Green Violetear - reasonable views of 2 or 3 of these. Quite a bit smaller than their Sparkling counterparts.
Grey-breasted Wood Wren - excellent views of two of these in a hedge by the railtracks, and a number of others were heard but not seen
Thick-billed Euphonia - quite common. Similar to the Violaceohs Euphonias I had seen in Brazil
Golden-naped Tanager - reasonable views of two of these very attractive birds
Sclater's Tyrannulet - not the most inspiring of birds, but common and vocal in the forest
Mottled-cheeked Tyrannulet - I kept seeing small yellowy tyrannulets, which I am pretty sure were this species which I saw multiple times in Brazil
Spectacled Redstart - seen a number times but less common than the Slate-throateds
Russet-crowned Warbler - 2 seen well in a mixed species flock
Oligeanous Hemispingus - great name, boring bird. Several seen foraging together in a mixed species flock.
Silver-beaked Tanager - reasonable views of a group of 4 of these in the treetops
Streak-necked Flycatcher - only one seen well but may have caught a brief glimpse of several others.
Tropical Parula - 2 seen well but briefly
Blue-necked Tanager - reasonable views of 2 in the treetops
Fasciated Tiger-heron - one seen briefly flying along the river
Andean Solitaire - only one seen, but their weird creaky song is one of the characteristic sounds of the forest
Green and White Hummingbird - at least 5 were presumably this endemic species rather than White-bellied


19 July

Aguas Calientes, early morning

This morning I got up ridiculously early and went for another walk along the river. Unfortunately, I was in pretty much pitch darkness until the last twenty minutes or so. The Andean Solitaires were vocal, and I also saw (presumed) Green and White Hummingbird, Sclater’s Tyrannulet and Slate-throated Redstart. I also saw the following new species:
Double-toothed Kite – one perched on a riverside rock, seen reasonably well before it flew off downstream
White-tipped Dove – one seen reasonably well on the branch of a tree for a few minutes before it flew off

Machu Picchu

We spent most of the day at Machu Picchu, which is quite good for birds but (fortunately) not sufficiently bird rich to prevent a birding geek like me from enjoying it. In and around Macchu Picchu we saw loads of Blue and White Swallow, about 5 (presumed) Green and White Hummingbirds, 2 Rust and Yellow Tanger (en route to the Sun Gate) and the following species were new for the trip:
Great Thrush – one male seen briefly from the bus on the way from AC up to MP. Like a gargantuan Blackbird
Inca Wren – I heard at least 4 of this endemic species singing: one near the ticket office and others in bamboo on the route to Inti Punku. Despite trying to lure them out with my ipad, I failed to get any conclusive views. I saw some movement from wren-shaped birds, and at one stage I saw a wren head peeking out from a bush where earlier I had heard an Inca Wren. However, the latter looked more or the less the same as the Grey-breasted Wood Wrens I had seen the previous day, so I think that is what it was. Frustrating.
Tufted Tit-Tyrant – one seen well but briefly on the path to Inti Punku
Masked Flowerpiercer – fortunately I managed to track down a birding making a thin whistling noise. Masked Flowerpiercer it was. A nice bird
Sierran Elaenia – at least one seen very well on the path to Inti Punku
Spinetail sp – I got a brief view of a spinetail of some sort, but didn’t see it well enough to confirm. Maybe Azara’s? Is any other spinetail species likely here?
Chestnut-capped Brush Finch – got good views of one foraging on the ground on the way down to the car park.

Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo

In the afternoon we got the return train. This saw a further dose of Torrent Ducks, Black Phoebes, Torrent Tyrannulets and Andean Gulls. I also got decent views of one Fasciated Tiger-heron and, best of all:
Andean Condor – jammed in on one, soaring over mountains on the south side of the valley about half an hour from Ollantaytambo. Far away, but stayed in view for at least a minute. In the binoculars the white collar really stood out against the uniform black underwing and underparts. At one stage the bird banked and the white on the upperwing became visible. A real trip highlight, and an element of saving the best until last. Would have liked longer and closer views, but a good view given the circumstances (i.e. from a moving train!).

Cusco, 20 July:

Saw 3 Sparkling Violetear whilst strolling around Cusco


Lima, 21-22 July

Back in Lima I didn’t see any more new birds but saw many of the same species I had seen when we first arrived in Lima.
 
And some bad pics:

West Peruvian Dove
Penguin
Red-legged Cormorant
Peruvian Pelican
Coastal Miner
 

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And a second and final lot of bad pics:

Common Miner
Bar-winged Cinclodes
Andean Gull on Lake Titicaca
confusing Hummingbird in Ollantaytambo. Any ideas anyone?
Sierran Elaenia
 

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Kind of surprised I didn't bump into you as I was in some of the same areas at almost the same time. Mine was more of a dedicated birding trip, but you saw several species I didn't. I was pretty certain I saw White-bellied Hummingbird in Ollantaytambo, but I suppose both species could occur there.
 
Thanks Andrew. Do let me know if/when you do a report of your trip, as I would be genuinely curious to hear about the things I missed...
 
Nice report! I visited Peru (including Cuzco and Macchu Picchu) for the first time last November. I had similar trouble getting Inca Wren, although I didn't have playback with me and they just weren't interested in pishing.

Tawny-throated Dotterel... I'm jealous:t:
 
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