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Canon IS bins (1 Viewer)

Hi all,

my dad is considering buying some Canon IS bins for birding. Maybe 10x.
I am totally unfamiliar with these bins. Has anyone got any opinions about them.
I don't see many birders using them. Is there a reason for this?
Are there any particular drawbacks with them?

Thanks,
Martin.
 
Martin,
Why don't you check the Canon Forum just above? There are lots of comments on the 10 x 30 IS there. (And the more expensive 10 x 42.) Most of them favorable, as I recall. Stay away from the 8 x 25.
Cordially,
Bob
 
The IS seem to be quite extraordinary. Owners claim that is hard to go back to non-is. Drawbacks of the Canon IS seem to be less the alpha class optics. Atleast on the non 10x42 versions.
 
Hi Martin,
I'm a 2 year user of the 10x42IS L and recommend it highly. While it is bulky and ugly, as well as heavy enough to almost mandate a harness for wearing it, it is brilliant optically.
It is very bright, probably more so than any other 10x50 I've owned,( despite being stopped down to 37mm internally) superbly sharp and of course image stabilized. That feature is clearly the next step in binocular development. It allows detail inspection on flying birds or distant birds that would not be possible otherwise. Of course it is also waterproof and rubber armored.
My only quibbles are the ineptly designed objective covers (better replaced by flip up lens covers or short lens hoods), the bulky oculars and the limited depth of field, although that can be useful when following a bird into the bushes, as the nearer objects melt away. At about $1100 here in the US, I see them as a superb value, less than half the price of the non stabilized Zeiss 10x42.
 
Well, I've had a 15x50 for nearly 7yrs (Mar 03) and wouldn't trade it for anything. I've had a chance for a brief comparo w/ a 15x56SLC, and it definitely holds its own. The Swaro had a slight edge in brightness (not enuf to matter), but for fov & resolution, a tossup. But the Canon is a lot easier to hold steady unsupported (for me anyway), and I very rarely use the IS anymore, tho it works flawlessly.

Can't comment with any certainty on the other models (tho have heard good reports on the 12x36 and hear the 10x42 is a real winner). But the optical complement in mine is good enuf that I'd keep it even w/o the IS.
 
Martin,

I have 10x30 IS's since april and I was so pleased with them, that I splashed out on an additional pair of 18x50 IS's in june.
I use them alternatively for birding outings, the 10x30 is quite small and lightweight ( +/- 650 grams with 2 batteries included ) and very sharp, and surprisingly bright in daylight.
I have no issues with them, except for the rather loose diopter on the right eyepiece, which I solved by putting a little rubber band around.
I take these where ever I go, with the 18x50's in a backpack I don't need a scope anymore.

The 10x30 IS's are relatively cheap, I paid € 299 for them.
Not much for losing the tremors that normally terrorise binocular users. Much more detail in a stable view.

I gave my opinions on them in the Canon forum, you might like to read further there.

Regards,

Ronald
 
Hi all,

my dad is considering buying some Canon IS bins for birding. Maybe 10x.
I am totally unfamiliar with these bins. Has anyone got any opinions about them.
I don't see many birders using them. Is there a reason for this?
Are there any particular drawbacks with them?

Thanks,
Martin.

One drawback and I wonder what the others who have them think of is "IS effect". Without a technical description, sometimes there is a latency or a catching up to do with the IS such that you will get a momentary sense of jitter; this jitter is mechanical and in fact as insidious or worse than "hand shake", though of smaller magnitude. Do other users have this issue? Any way to prevent it or work around it?

I love mine but they are heavy as sin and the near focus is lacking. A 10x may not have the prob. However, I like a good bin to focus down to at least 3 m.
 
Thanks everyone. Plenty of info to digest there. I shall pass it on to my dad.

One thing I've read is that as there are moving parts and electronics involved, life expectancy of the bins in somewhat short.
Is this true do you think?

Thank you all very much indeed :t:
 
Hi all,

my dad is considering buying some Canon IS bins for birding. Maybe 10x.
I am totally unfamiliar with these bins. Has anyone got any opinions about them.
I don't see many birders using them. Is there a reason for this?
Are there any particular drawbacks with them?

Thanks,
Martin.


Martin
I have owned the 8x25,10x30 and the 12x36 Canon IS models. They are fun to use and pretty good optically but for birding they are definitely a step down in optical quality from the alpha class binoculars. They show considerable glare in sunny situations like trying to see something at sundown. I sold all mine because they do not have the wow factor that the alphas do but you can see alot of detail especially with the 12x36's because of the IS stabilization. You are definitely losing alot optically comparing these to the top Swarovski's EL, Leica HD or Zeiss FL models but for the money they are an option at the lower end of the price spectrum.
 
Last edited:
I cannot agree with Dennis .I have the 10,12 & 15 ISs
The optics are exellent.I have Leica & Swaro also had Nikon 12x50SE but sold them as i found i much prefered the 12 IS.
Just try them. IS is the way to go_Only setback ,Close focus is about 25 ft with the 12s
But if you get closer than that bird will probably fly away anyway.
Mine are good right out to the very edge which is more than i can say for some of the alpha bins ive tried.
 
I cannot agree with Dennis .I have the 10,12 & 15 ISs
The optics are exellent.I have Leica & Swaro also had Nikon 12x50SE but sold them as i found i much prefered the 12 IS.
Just try them. IS is the way to go_Only setback ,Close focus is about 25 ft with the 12s
But if you get closer than that bird will probably fly away anyway.
Mine are good right out to the very edge which is more than i can say for some of the alpha bins ive tried.

I agree the Canon's have very good edge resolution but IMO they were lacking in contrast, DOF,glare control and on-axis resolution compared to say a Zeiss FL. Especially glare control. When viewing near say the sunset I couldn't believe how much glare they had. They just to me didn't have the punch or wow factor of the alphas. Nice flat FOV though but IMO again in optics you get what you pay for and for the money they are an excellent bargain. Of course that is just my opinion! I am sure others feel differently.
 
"Try before you buy" is the mantra of binocular purchasing, but that goes double for Canon IS bin for reasons stated above, what is often called "swimming" images.

Some models have better stability than others and some samples have better stability than others.

Your best bet and most reasonably priced 10x is the 10x30 IS.

I had one, a good sample, and liked it very much. My only gripe was the smallish exit pupil - 3mm, which I found a bit dim compared to my 4-5mm exit pupil bins - on dark, overcast days in the fall and in the winter.

They are small, light, fit the hand nicely and if your dad doesn't have a problem with the "swimming" now and then, he should be well pleased.

The edge sharpness is also very good.

An annoyance that some people have found is that with the smaller models, you have to keep the button pressed with your finger while the larger models have a 5-minute delay.

I found that for my large hands, the button fell in a good position so it wasn't fatiguing.

You'll also need to purchase some lithium AA batteries for longer life.

They are not WP like the more expensive, bulkier, and heavier, but optically superior 10x42 IS L.

If you are buying these from a store, and they have more than one sample, compare them and see if there's one that has the least amount of "swimming".

Look at an object and then shake your hands a bit and see how the IS responds to the vibrations.

The sample that keeps the image steadiest is the one to buy.

If surprising your dad isn't important, take him with you and let him try the 10x30 IS.

What you experience through the IS bins, may not be what he does, though the "shake" experiment will help if you would rather surprise him with the present.
 
"Try before you buy" is the mantra of binocular purchasing, but that goes double for Canon IS bin for reasons stated above, what is often called "swimming" images.

Some models have better stability than others and some samples have better stability than others.

Your best bet and most reasonably priced 10x is the 10x30 IS.

I had one, a good sample, and liked it very much. My only gripe was the smallish exit pupil - 3mm, which I found a bit dim compared to my 4-5mm exit pupil bins - on dark, overcast days in the fall and in the winter.

They are small, light, fit the hand nicely and if your dad doesn't have a problem with the "swimming" now and then, he should be well pleased.

The edge sharpness is also very good.

An annoyance that some people have found is that with the smaller models, you have to keep the button pressed with your finger while the larger models have a 5-minute delay.

I found that for my large hands, the button fell in a good position so it wasn't fatiguing.

You'll also need to purchase some lithium AA batteries for longer life.

They are not WP like the more expensive, bulkier, and heavier, but optically superior 10x42 IS L.

If you are buying these from a store, and they have more than one sample, compare them and see if there's one that has the least amount of "swimming".

Look at an object and then shake your hands a bit and see how the IS responds to the vibrations.

The sample that keeps the image steadiest is the one to buy.

If surprising your dad isn't important, take him with you and let him try the 10x30 IS.

What you experience through the IS bins, may not be what he does, though the "shake" experiment will help if you would rather surprise him with the present.


The varying swimming effect is interesting Brocknroller. I didn't know they varied from sample to sample. Very useful information!
 
The varying swimming effect is interesting Brocknroller. I didn't know they varied from sample to sample. Very useful information!


Yes, unfortunately, they sometimes do.

The first pair I tried, had such a bad case of the "swims" it gave me a case of the "dry heaves" while watching the moon.

By "swimming" I mean a slow random movement around the FOV. It can have an effect on some people like they are swaying about on a boat.

IS bins can also show hand jitters if your hands shake badly enough, and they will sometimes cause streaks if the object is moving fast and you are following the target with the bins.

I was watching some swallows chasing down bugs in the field near my house and as I kept moving the bins to follow them in flight, they turned into streaks.

If this happens, just release the IS button, and allow the prisms to reset and continue observing.

This can happen with the stars too if you move too quickly.

I found that sitting down helped calm the "swimming".

The second pair was cherry picked from five samples and had the best stability.

I'm one of the exceptions to the rule. Most people seem more tolerant of IS "swimming". Some don't see it.

If you want to surprise your dad, just make sure the store has a liberal return policy such as Eagle Optics 30 day returns.
 
After using the 3 that i own & one that i borrowed before buying i have never experienced any of these things,
I think they are the neatest thing since sliced bread .
But then again some prefer unsliced bread.
Brian .
 
Hi Martin, I´ve owned 8x25, 10x30 and 12x36 Canon IS bins. I wouldn´t advise the 8x25. The 12x36 are wonderful, but not as an "all-round" bin. The 10x30 are much cheaper (about 300 sterling now, I think) and are my current favourite IS. Bright, less "flare", "drift" or CA than my 12x36, also more compact and lighter, with a wider FOV. I strongly recommend them, although the slight drift takes a little getting used to. I don´t notice it anymore, I often wonder if the IS mechanism "settles down" after some use in the field (my opinion only, probably deranged).
 
Sancho,

I share your "deranged" opinion. I frequently have the sense that the IS settles down after a moment or two of use. I have no idea why this would be, nor am I sure that it would be a fact and not just my interpretation or accommodation, but it has happened consistently enough for a long enough time now that I no longer question it, at least not as a subjective experience. My general practice in non-urgent viewing is therefore to stop-and-start the IS a couple of times when I begin viewing, after which it tends to behave very well. Microprocessors are weird sometimes.

Kimmo
 
LOL, Kimmo! I got used to using my index and second finger in unison to make momentary adjustments to focus and IS at the same time. But I also wonder if the "drift" of IS "settles down" over weeks and months of use...I remember when I got my first IS bins, I couldn´t use them while wearing my MBT shoes, as these have curved soles and are intentionally unstable (to make you keep your back straight). But now I can use them quite easily with any shoes, so I wonder if the IS system, in a new pair of binos, is more sensitive or "shaky", and takes time, perhaps weeks or months to "relax"? This wouldn´t be a great selling point, mind you....
 
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