Ballhead Advice needed (1 Viewer)

Setting up my camera on distant objects (for example birds in trees) I'm finding that when I line the camera up, tighten the ball head and then let go of the camera the focus point drops by just a fraction. After that it's solid with no undue vibrations. I can usually compensate for this in advance, but it's a bit of a pain when I want a precise focus point.

I'm wondering if this is a general issue with ball heads, a problem with my patricular ball head, or just my bad technique? I've tried ensuring that the lens collar and quick release plates are as tight as possible. I've also tried to ensure that I am not puting undue pressure on the camera as I make the adjustment, but neither seems to make any difference.

I'm using an EOS20D and Canon EF 400mm f/5.6 with a Manfrotto 386RC2 head on a Manfrotro 055 Tripod.

Considering upgrading to a better head (eg a FLM CB58 or Kirk BH1) in an attempt to solve the problem - but I'm reluctant to spend more money without being sure it's not just me!

I've had similar problems with every head I've ever used, including pan/tilt and ball heads. I do think that the more you spend, the less likely it is that you'll have this problem. I've kind of learned to live with it and compensate, because I don't want to spend hundreds on a head.

The trouble is 0.25mm at the head end with a large lens or scope is half a metre at the other end the longer the lens the bigger the problem you only have to tap the leg of the stiffest tripod with a 800 lens & it will make you sea sick.

QuantumTiger said:

Setting up my camera on distant objects (for example birds in trees) I'm finding that when I line the camera up, tighten the ball head and then let go of the camera the focus point drops by just a fraction. After that it's solid with no undue vibrations. I can usually compensate for this in advance, but it's a bit of a pain when I want a precise focus point.

I'm wondering if this is a general issue with ball heads, a problem with my patricular ball head, or just my bad technique? I've tried ensuring that the lens collar and quick release plates are as tight as possible. I've also tried to ensure that I am not puting undue pressure on the camera as I make the adjustment, but neither seems to make any difference.

I'm using an EOS20D and Canon EF 400mm f/5.6 with a Manfrotto 386RC2 head on a Manfrotro 055 Tripod.

Considering upgrading to a better head (eg a FLM CB58 or Kirk BH1) in an attempt to solve the problem - but I'm reluctant to spend more money without being sure it's not just me!

Click to expand...

After trying several, increasingly expensive heads, we finally invested in a Wimberly and have been very happy wirh it.

Having weighed all the options and read all the reviews, I decided to go with the Really Right Stuff BH-55. Ordering direct from the states alongside one RRS camera plate and two lens plates I calculated that it should just come in cheaper than getting a Kirk BH-1 and three Wimberley plates in the UK. Of course that was reckoning without the import duty (I foolishly assumed that this would just be the VAT rate) or the nasty 'handling charge' that Parcelforce kindly add on for the privilige of adminstering it. Anyway. Still came in cheaper than an Arca head and Wimberleys.

The head is so much better than the Manfrotto. The bad news is that it does not entirely solve my initial problem. With the RRS the lens does stay steady after the ball is locked so that its great. However, as you tighten the locking knob the lens can move slightly. The good news is that this I've found that this can be countered by being careful. In fact it proved to be a whole lot easier to use in the field than I had initially feared. So I'm happy.

I may still get the Wimberley Sidekick at a later stage, but at least I'm set up with a system that can take that now.