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Differences between MC and DS eyepieces? (1 Viewer)

NoSpringChicken

Well-known member
United Kingdom
Does anyone know if there are any differences between the Nikon MC and DS eyepieces apart from the lack of the twist up eyecups on the DS range? Looking at the specs on the Nikon site there is no difference between the 27x lenses and only minor differences between the 16x DC and the 20x MC.

Would the DC lenses with the twist up eyecups be a better all round choice than the MCs for digiscoping and general scoping use?

Finally does anyone have a view on whether the 16/20x or 27x would be the better choice for digiscoping? This is just for future reference when funds allow.;)

Ron

Edit. I should add that these magnifications are for a 50mm scope.
 
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As far as I'm aware, the DS and MC eyepieces are identical except for differences in the design of the eye-up.

I have tried a 27x/50x eyepiece for digiscoping on my ED50, and was a little disappointed with the results. I think you'd do better with the 20x, though for the odd record shot the more powerful EP isn't too bad, it's just that 27x on the ED50 equates to something like 50x on a larger scope, and most people would recommend something more like 30x or less for good results with an 80mm scope (in other words, try to keep the mag down to a figure that's significantly less than half the objective diameter in mm of your scope).

The 16x lens should give the best results, but how much more are you going to have to use the camera's zoom to get a large enough picture? Otherwise you'll need to be very close to the bird.
 
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Forgot to mention, I use the 27x MC. I don't think it matters which you go for, MC or DS, it's just that the latter are compatible with Nikon's own digiscoping adapters (which I don't use anyway).
 
Hi Ron

the advantage of the DS eyepeices is that they allow you to attach the Nikon digiscoping adapters such as the FSB-6. The lack of eyecup does make them a bit more work to use for viewing (perhaps not if you use glasses?). Given that you use a Fuji F30 for digiscoping and thus won't be using a Nikon adapter I'd recommend going to a standard eyepeice.

(I see Steve has already pointed this out, that'll teach me to take so long to reply...)
 
Thanks for your replies. I am using the 13-40 zoom at its widest setting at the moment for digiscoping and it works all right except that I have to zoom in nearly halfway on the camera to clear the vignetting. That then limits the amount of zoom available on the camera and can lead to problems trying to fit a large bird into the frame. I imagine the 16x and 20x lenses should be vignette free at the widest camera setting.

Looking at the Nikon specs the zoom has the widest Exit Pupil of all (3.8mm) and the highest Relative Brightness value (14.4) at its widest setting. Is this a relevant factor at all in digiscoping? It also has the shortest eye relief at 14.1mm compared to 18.7mm for the 16x and 17.9mm for the 20x.

It's looking as if it may be worth getting a 20x MC lens in the future as an all rounder and keeping the zoom for when I need a bit more reach.

Ron
 
Hi Ron

the advantage of the DS eyepeices is that they allow you to attach the Nikon digiscoping adapters such as the FSB-6. The lack of eyecup does make them a bit more work to use for viewing (perhaps not if you use glasses?). Given that you use a Fuji F30 for digiscoping and thus won't be using a Nikon adapter I'd recommend going to a standard eyepeice.

(I see Steve has already pointed this out, that'll teach me to take so long to reply...)

Hi Pete

At the risk of adding to my rapidly increasing collection of adaptors I had been vaguely considering the possibility of using the DS eyepiece with the FSA-3 adaptor and trying to connect this to a FoxFoto Universal Lens Adaptor. The FoxFoto adaptor comes with 37mm or 52mm threads but I don't know what the thread is on the FSA-3. Alternatively, I could use the FoxFoto adaptor with their F-adapter which screws straight on and could fit either the Nikon DS or MC eyepiece.

That would be simpler and lighter than my current Olivon adaptor but wouldn't allow me to swing the camera away to check the scope focus – a big advantage with my ageing eyesight.

So many choices – so much fun.

Ron
 
Looking at the Nikon specs the zoom has the widest Exit Pupil of all (3.8mm) and the highest Relative Brightness value (14.4) at its widest setting. Is this a relevant factor at all in digiscoping? It also has the shortest eye relief at 14.1mm compared to 18.7mm for the 16x and 17.9mm for the 20x.

The exit pupil is directly proportional to the relative brightness figure, so yes, it is important as it affects the shutter speeds you can use, especially in dimmer lighting. This of course, affects the sharpness of your pictures. I see you use the Fuji F30 (as I do) so it compensates somewhat for the small objective of your scope.

You can easily calculate the exit pupil of any scope or binocular by dividing the objective diameter by the magnification. The 16x lens has an exit pupil of 3.125mm, so as you can see there isn't that much difference between it and the zoom at 13x. The 20x has an exit pupil of 2.5mm.

I originally bought the ED50 with a zoom, but quickly realized I rarely use mags of less than 30x, so most of the zoom range is wasted on me (I suppose this depends to a large extent on the kind of birding you do, and the distances you view the most).

I quickly swapped to the 27x, which was better for me, and of course much wider (there is no vignetting with the F30 with no camera zoom either). The only slight downer for me with this lens is the reduced depth of field compared to a lower power, and consequently the view through it is not so easy on the eye. There is also a greater need for constant tweaking of the focus wheel. Your idea of using a 20x for most viewing is a good compromise, and isn't that far short of the 27x either.

Lastly, I'm not sure that eye relief is so important with digiscoping, just a case of experimenting with the optimum camera distance from the eyepiece lens.
 
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Thanks for all that, Steve. It's nice to hear that someone else is using the same combination of scope and camera that I am. I just want a light and easy to carry combination which turns out decent digiscoping results. It sounds as if this combination is capable of that with a bit of care.

I will probably try out the 20x and 27x eyepieces when I've got a bit of spare cash and in the meantime will keep practising with my present setup.

Ron
 
I am considering the ED50 and may try some digiscoping. Can you use many different point and shoots or am I confined to Nikons. What about a Sony DSC?
 
I have revived this thread as I am thinking about buying a fixed eyepiece for digiscoping.

I have just about decided on the 20x (on the ED50) wide MC but I was looking at the Vignetting Table on the linked Nikon page and noticed that they show different amounts of vignetting for the equivalent MC and DS lenses when usIng the P5000. This is a bit strange but I imagine it is due to the way the FSB-6 adapter attaches to the two eyepieces (they mention using an FSBR-4 Bracket Ring with the DS lenses.)

I suppose it would be different in my case anyway as I will be using the Fuji F30 and a completely different adapter.

Finally has anyone got any experience of using the DS eyepieces for general viewing with the included rubber eyecup?

http://nikon.topica.ne.jp/bi_e/products/nature_c.htm

Ron
 
I have revived this thread as I am thinking about buying a fixed eyepiece for digiscoping.

I have just about decided on the 20x (on the ED50) wide MC but I was looking at the Vignetting Table on the linked Nikon page and noticed that they show different amounts of vignetting for the equivalent MC and DS lenses when usIng the P5000. This is a bit strange but I imagine it is due to the way the FSB-6 adapter attaches to the two eyepieces (they mention using an FSBR-4 Bracket Ring with the DS lenses.)

I suppose it would be different in my case anyway as I will be using the Fuji F30 and a completely different adapter.

Finally has anyone got any experience of using the DS eyepieces for general viewing with the included rubber eyecup?

http://nikon.topica.ne.jp/bi_e/products/nature_c.htm

Ron

I have a Fieldscope III ED and have 30xMC and 24xDS eyepieces. Both a very good, and I have no trouble using their different eyecups. With the 24xDS, its just a case of lining you eye up near to the lens rather than resting your eyesocket on a rubber cup as with the MC. It works fine, and and the 24xDS is wonderfully bright, sharp and wide.

For digiscoping, you simply peel off the rubber ring and slip on the FSB bracket. In fact, you may decide you don't need the rubber ring at all.
 
I have a Fieldscope III ED and have 30xMC and 24xDS eyepieces. Both a very good, and I have no trouble using their different eyecups. With the 24xDS, its just a case of lining you eye up near to the lens rather than resting your eyesocket on a rubber cup as with the MC. It works fine, and and the 24xDS is wonderfully bright, sharp and wide.

For digiscoping, you simply peel off the rubber ring and slip on the FSB bracket. In fact, you may decide you don't need the rubber ring at all.

Thanks for the information. The 24xDS is 16x on the ED50 and I wonder if it will give me enough reach. The 30x MC is 20x so it might be a bit more useful. I am presently using the 13-40 zoom, normally at the 13x setting, so both lenses should give a bit more reach.

Another basic question which I don't understand. With the zoom at 13x I have to zoom in about halfway with the camera to eliminate vignetting. That then only leaves half the camera zoom for increasing the magnification. If, as I hope, the 20x MC does not produce any vignetting on the minimum camera zoom, does that give me potentially more reach than the zoom eyepiece by using the rest of the camera zoom? Even I don't understand that and I wrote it!

Ron
 
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