Loud Green Man
Well-known member
There is no accessible thread.What size is the filter thread on the front of the 7x42 GA?
LGM
There is no accessible thread.What size is the filter thread on the front of the 7x42 GA?
Thanks for the quick reply, but there is an accessible internal thread there on my new GA at least, and easily peeling back the rubber and unscrewing the ring reveals an external thread too.There is no accessible thread.
LGM
Interesting. Are you able to post a picture please?Thanks for the quick reply, but there is an accessible internal thread there on my new GA at least, and easily peeling back the rubber and unscrewing the ring reveals an external thread too.
I'll post back when I find out the answer.
I want to add lens hoods, I do to all my binos. Only a few dollars and greatly adds protection from drops, rocks, salt spray, glare, fogging /dew etc. Also adds stability if you hold the objective end.
Interesting. Are you able to post a picture please?
With regard to protecting the objective I’m happy with the matching rubber covers that don’t come with the bins but Swarovski will happily supply. Clearly they can’t/don’t protect against saltwater spray when viewing through them but good for most other protection considerations.
Interestingly Swarovski’s argument for not providing the covers is that the extended GA wrap forward of the objective provides increased protection over the leatherette version.
LGM
Oh the rubber jacketing does not interfere with the inner thread at all, I just rolled it back to remove the outer trim ring ☺.Thanks for that. It will by interesting to see the end result once you’ve sourced and installed your preferred type of lens hood. My concern would be how the rolled back rubber armouring will fit and in particular without compromising their ability to resist water ingress.
The Swarovski rubber caps provide a perfect seal against dust and water.
K
Is this the notorious BinoBat?
The last time I tried to get some GA objective covers for a customer, was informed that they are no longer available. Of course, with all things, this might have changed again.Interesting. Are you able to post a picture please?
With regard to protecting the objective I’m happy with the matching rubber covers that don’t come with the bins but Swarovski will happily supply. Clearly they can’t/don’t protect against saltwater spray when viewing through them but good for most other protection considerations.
Interestingly Swarovski’s argument for not providing the covers is that the extended GA wrap forward of the objective provides increased protection over the leatherette version.
LGM
If you are after the covers for the 7X42 model here is the part number and address for a direct Swarovski contact:The last time I tried to get some GA objective covers for a customer, was informed that they are no longer available. Of course, with all things, this might have changed again.
If you are depending on your dioptric accommodation, based on the use of the ciliary muscles in your eye, You may be doing just fine. However, if you really want the binocular to focus for you, all bets along those lines are off.What Dennis said I agree with. They are great for hunting. The stiff focuser is a non issue because beyond 50m I don't need to use it.
That was a reply to Mask of Porro's statement "The stiff focuser is a non issue because beyond 50m I don't need to use it."If you are depending on your dioptric accommodation, based on the use of the ciliary muscles in your eye, You may be doing just fine. However, if you really want the binocular to focus for you, all bets along those lines are off.
Hi, Herman,That was a reply to Mask of Porro's statement "The stiff focuser is a non issue because beyond 50m I don't need to use it."
Mask of Porro's statement is correct. Magnification² is the near-infinity point of binoculars and scopes, in other words the distance at which you see everything in sharp focus at 0 diopters accomodation. And 7²=49m.
BTW, that explains part of the attraction of binoculars with low magnification - you don't need to focus all that much.
Hermann
Hi there, you're right, of course. However, provided you set up your binoculars right (I'm for instance at -1 diopter on the right eye) you still get the same near-infinity point, i.e. a sharp image from ~50m to infinity with the binoculars set to infinity without focussing with your eyes. At least that's how I understand the theory behind it. Also works nicely in real life ...Hi, Herman,
Your BTW is true, as explained in a paragraph near the bottom of page 12 in my first bino book. The other part is NOT, as explained by the fact that only 2 or 3% of observers have the same dioptric power in each eye. Zero diopters do it? ... In WHICH eye?
Sometimes theories work great in the "real life." Sometimes they don't, as can be seen by the fact that currently 100% of the "collimation tips" on the Internet are ... wrong! They may represent all you need to give one a serviceable image. But, this is conditional alignment and not 3-axis collimation. In this, the brain and rectus muscles must make up for what the instrument failed to do.Hi there, you're right, of course. However, provided you set up your binoculars right (I'm for instance at -1 diopter on the right eye) you still get the same near-infinity point, i.e. a sharp image from ~50m to infinity with the binoculars set to infinity without focussing with your eyes. At least that's how I understand the theory behind it. Also works nicely in real life ...
Hermann
I've read this before, that all the collimation tips are "wrong" .Sometimes theories work great in the "real life." Sometimes they don't, as can be seen by the fact that currently 100% of the "collimation tips" on the Internet are ... wrong! They may represent all you need to give one a serviceable image. But, this is conditional alignment and not 3-axis collimation. In this, the brain and rectus muscles must make up for what the instrument failed to do.
Look through them, set the dioptre, and your eyes should be completely relaxed, especially when taking them away from your eyes.In simplest terms: Is there even a method to really confirm collimation (by a layperson) w/out owning a Mark IV Navy or whatever it is called?
E.g. I pick up a used pair of binos and want to confirm that they are in proper collimation. Other than pulling them away from eyes etc. is there a legit method for evaluation?
I have written two books—the names of which I’m not allowed to speak of directly on this forum ... lest I get my hand slapped. The first has 37 pages dedicated to the subject. In the second, all 68 pages are dedicated to that ONE topic. On top of that, I have been preaching the gospel of, “Collimation Vs. Conditional Alignment” for 45 years to all who would listen. Those who want to learn paid attention; those who already know everything, chose not to bother.I've read this before, that all the collimation tips are "wrong" .
But it's a useless statement if you're not going to share with us what is actually "correct".
Just running around the internet saying "everyone is wrong", but without explaining how, doesn't help us at all.