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Swarovski Habicht 7x42 GA (1 Viewer)

There is no accessible thread.

LGM
Thanks for the quick reply, but there is an accessible internal thread there on my new GA at least, and easily peeling back the rubber and unscrewing the ring reveals an external thread too.

I'll post back when I find out the answer.

I want to add lens hoods, I do to all my binos. Only a few dollars and greatly adds protection from drops, rocks, salt spray, glare, fogging /dew etc. Also adds stability if you hold the objective end.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, but there is an accessible internal thread there on my new GA at least, and easily peeling back the rubber and unscrewing the ring reveals an external thread too.

I'll post back when I find out the answer.

I want to add lens hoods, I do to all my binos. Only a few dollars and greatly adds protection from drops, rocks, salt spray, glare, fogging /dew etc. Also adds stability if you hold the objective end.
Interesting. Are you able to post a picture please?

With regard to protecting the objective I’m happy with the matching rubber covers that don’t come with the bins but Swarovski will happily supply. Clearly they can’t/don’t protect against saltwater spray when viewing through them but good for most other protection considerations.

Interestingly Swarovski’s argument for not providing the covers is that the extended GA wrap forward of the objective provides increased protection over the leatherette version.

LGM
 
Interesting. Are you able to post a picture please?

With regard to protecting the objective I’m happy with the matching rubber covers that don’t come with the bins but Swarovski will happily supply. Clearly they can’t/don’t protect against saltwater spray when viewing through them but good for most other protection considerations.

Interestingly Swarovski’s argument for not providing the covers is that the extended GA wrap forward of the objective provides increased protection over the leatherette version.

LGM


Sure, here's some pics I took.

The internal measurement with and without the trim ring is close enough to 42mm. I think that means it's a 43mm thread but will check properly with some step up rings and confirm for sure. Unless anyone else knows for sure?

External measurement is 53mm, I think that's a 52mm thread but will check for sure.

Are those swarovski rubber covers like lens caps? I don't like using those because I'm lazy 😂 Lens hoods don't inconvenience me though. I guess I'm used to using lens hoods, it's a habit now.
 

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Thanks for that. It will by interesting to see the end result once you’ve sourced and installed your preferred type of lens hood. My concern would be how the rolled back rubber armouring will fit and in particular without compromising their ability to resist water ingress.

The Swarovski rubber caps provide a perfect seal against dust and water.

K
 
Thanks for that. It will by interesting to see the end result once you’ve sourced and installed your preferred type of lens hood. My concern would be how the rolled back rubber armouring will fit and in particular without compromising their ability to resist water ingress.

The Swarovski rubber caps provide a perfect seal against dust and water.

K
Oh the rubber jacketing does not interfere with the inner thread at all, I just rolled it back to remove the outer trim ring ☺.
 
Interesting. Are you able to post a picture please?

With regard to protecting the objective I’m happy with the matching rubber covers that don’t come with the bins but Swarovski will happily supply. Clearly they can’t/don’t protect against saltwater spray when viewing through them but good for most other protection considerations.

Interestingly Swarovski’s argument for not providing the covers is that the extended GA wrap forward of the objective provides increased protection over the leatherette version.

LGM
The last time I tried to get some GA objective covers for a customer, was informed that they are no longer available. Of course, with all things, this might have changed again.
 
The last time I tried to get some GA objective covers for a customer, was informed that they are no longer available. Of course, with all things, this might have changed again.
If you are after the covers for the 7X42 model here is the part number and address for a direct Swarovski contact:

Part # 88-292C (X2)

Sabine
Customer Service
SWAROVSKI OPTIK VERTRIEBS GMBH
Daniel-Swarovski-Straße 70
6067 Absam, Austria
Tel. 00800 32 42 50 56
mailto:[email protected]]

Good luck!

LGM
 
What Dennis said I agree with. They are great for hunting. The stiff focuser is a non issue because beyond 50m I don't need to use it.
If you are depending on your dioptric accommodation, based on the use of the ciliary muscles in your eye, You may be doing just fine. However, if you really want the binocular to focus for you, all bets along those lines are off.
 
If you are depending on your dioptric accommodation, based on the use of the ciliary muscles in your eye, You may be doing just fine. However, if you really want the binocular to focus for you, all bets along those lines are off.
That was a reply to Mask of Porro's statement "The stiff focuser is a non issue because beyond 50m I don't need to use it."

Mask of Porro's statement is correct. Magnification² is the near-infinity point of binoculars and scopes, in other words the distance at which you see everything in sharp focus at 0 diopters accomodation. And 7²=49m.

BTW, that explains part of the attraction of binoculars with low magnification - you don't need to focus all that much.

Hermann
 
That was a reply to Mask of Porro's statement "The stiff focuser is a non issue because beyond 50m I don't need to use it."

Mask of Porro's statement is correct. Magnification² is the near-infinity point of binoculars and scopes, in other words the distance at which you see everything in sharp focus at 0 diopters accomodation. And 7²=49m.

BTW, that explains part of the attraction of binoculars with low magnification - you don't need to focus all that much.

Hermann
Hi, Herman,
Your BTW is true, as explained in a paragraph near the bottom of page 12 in my first bino book. The other part is NOT, as explained by the fact that only 2 or 3% of observers have the same dioptric power in each eye. Zero diopters do it? ... In WHICH eye?
 
Hi, Herman,
Your BTW is true, as explained in a paragraph near the bottom of page 12 in my first bino book. The other part is NOT, as explained by the fact that only 2 or 3% of observers have the same dioptric power in each eye. Zero diopters do it? ... In WHICH eye?
Hi there, you're right, of course. However, provided you set up your binoculars right (I'm for instance at -1 diopter on the right eye) you still get the same near-infinity point, i.e. a sharp image from ~50m to infinity with the binoculars set to infinity without focussing with your eyes. At least that's how I understand the theory behind it. Also works nicely in real life ... :)

Hermann
 
Hi there, you're right, of course. However, provided you set up your binoculars right (I'm for instance at -1 diopter on the right eye) you still get the same near-infinity point, i.e. a sharp image from ~50m to infinity with the binoculars set to infinity without focussing with your eyes. At least that's how I understand the theory behind it. Also works nicely in real life ... :)

Hermann
Sometimes theories work great in the "real life." Sometimes they don't, as can be seen by the fact that currently 100% of the "collimation tips" on the Internet are ... wrong! They may represent all you need to give one a serviceable image. But, this is conditional alignment and not 3-axis collimation. In this, the brain and rectus muscles must make up for what the instrument failed to do.
 
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Sometimes theories work great in the "real life." Sometimes they don't, as can be seen by the fact that currently 100% of the "collimation tips" on the Internet are ... wrong! They may represent all you need to give one a serviceable image. But, this is conditional alignment and not 3-axis collimation. In this, the brain and rectus muscles must make up for what the instrument failed to do.
I've read this before, that all the collimation tips are "wrong" .

But it's a useless statement if you're not going to share with us what is actually "correct".

Just running around the internet saying "everyone is wrong", but without explaining how, doesn't help us at all.
 
In simplest terms: Is there even a method to really confirm collimation (by a layperson) w/out owning a Mark IV Navy or whatever it is called?
E.g. I pick up a used pair of binos and want to confirm that they are in proper collimation. Other than pulling them away from eyes etc. is there a legit method for evaluation?
 
In simplest terms: Is there even a method to really confirm collimation (by a layperson) w/out owning a Mark IV Navy or whatever it is called?
E.g. I pick up a used pair of binos and want to confirm that they are in proper collimation. Other than pulling them away from eyes etc. is there a legit method for evaluation?
Look through them, set the dioptre, and your eyes should be completely relaxed, especially when taking them away from your eyes.
It's never failed for me.
 
I've read this before, that all the collimation tips are "wrong" .

But it's a useless statement if you're not going to share with us what is actually "correct".

Just running around the internet saying "everyone is wrong", but without explaining how, doesn't help us at all.
I have written two books—the names of which I’m not allowed to speak of directly on this forum ... lest I get my hand slapped. The first has 37 pages dedicated to the subject. In the second, all 68 pages are dedicated to that ONE topic. On top of that, I have been preaching the gospel of, “Collimation Vs. Conditional Alignment” for 45 years to all who would listen. Those who want to learn paid attention; those who already know everything, chose not to bother.

“Confidence is often seen as arrogance when viewed from beneath." — Fredrich Nietzsche

The US Navy was developer of the technology and methodology to use it, and I was a Chief Opticalman in that Navy who has repaired, restored, and/or collimated over 12,000 binoculars (This includes my 21 years at Captain's Nautical Supplies). Feel free to ask your countryman and retired optical technician, Roger Bruce Davis about my efforts to get the word out.

Dozens of people on several binocular forums (including this one) own and have praised these books. In both books, I published the exact steps to the correct process. In 2012, I lectured the optical engineers of SPIE and the article was published in their Proceedings magazine in October of that year. Also, I have published it in some non-optically oriented magazines and it has been appreciated by some pretty big movers and shakers in the industry (see attached). The attached has been posted in other threads, but I am posting it again just for your sake.

You say, I don’t explain. Would you please tell me and others what more I could have done—over these last 45 years—to help more people? Considering the FACTS of the matter, your snotty, “Just running around the internet saying "everyone is wrong", but without explaining how, doesn't help us at all.” says a great deal more about you than me!

PS I should say WHY I say everyone is WRONG. People who have the facts and know what they're talking about can spot WANNABES when they come individually, in pairs, or in clusters!
 

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Hi,

About the GA objectives covers, I got mine (10x40 W GA) last October, in less than 4 days, trought Swarovski Spain. I was there, Barcelona, where is the Spain Swaro importer ( Esteller Company). For free!! This was possible because, obviously, the part is still made.

Good luck

PHA
 
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