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Old Tuesday 21st April 2009, 11:07   #86
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Hong Kong (ex Sydney)
Posts: 10,173
Originally Posted by Nando View Post
Hi all,

First of all sorry for my English that is not the best.

Neil, I have been reading all your post and itís very interesting, and it seems that the G1 is quite good for digiscoping. I have some doubts about this camera and Iíll be grateful if you can answer me.

1) With the lens 14-45 if I have understood well there arenít any vignetting with a ocular as x25 or x30 in swaro or kowa, but the speed that you get, it seems that is enough to take good photos (seeing your excellent photos) but the ďfĒ (3.5-5.6) is quite high if you compare with lens 50mm 1.8 from canon-nikon in dslr, what do you think?
2) Another question about this lens is how working the autofocus. You have told us that works perfectly but Iíve seen the AF is external in this lens. Then when you press the button to take a photo, the G1 over the ocular move forward and back until focus well? And if the autofocus is continuous, the camera is moving continuously?
3) And the last point is about the noise that this camera makes when you take a photo. At this moment Iím using a 350D from canon and I like nothing two point, the vibration and the noise from the hit of the mirror. I hope this two point are solved with the G1 but I have read that the G1 is quite noisy when you take a photo, is that true?

Thanks a lot

Best Regards
There is vignetting with the kit lens - a little at wide zoom 14 mm (10%) which disappears at 16 mm and then comes back at 25 mm on an eyepiece with 20 mm of Eye Relief (eg Swaro 30x ). So in 35 mm terms this gives you a range of 32 - 50 mm unvignetted. With the long Eye Relief of the Kowa the unvignetted image is more in the centre of the range (24 -31 mm ).
The 50 mm lens would be equivalent to 100 mm on this camera and you may get more light. I haven't done an accurate test of the kit zoom lens v fixed in same conditions. Mainly because I have a completely different setup using a balance bar with the other lenses and it takes some time to set up. The quality should be better with a fixed eyepiece which is much more important than the shutter speed which is good at the higher iso.
The AF is internal to the lens so you don't have to worry. That's how I can screw the DCA adapter straight into the front filter thread of the lens. It will move when zooming though.
The Canon's are excellent for noise handling , especially the 350D. Have a look at the images here
Up to iso 400 no noise, at iso 800 there is some but it's easy to get out with Noiseware
The Magpie Robin and Night Heron were taken at iso 800 and I used a little Noiseware .
You don't have to use Mirror Lockup or the Self-timer very often as the vibration is minor. Just focus the scope close and let the AF do the rest.
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Last edited by Neil : Tuesday 21st April 2009 at 11:10. Reason: forgot the photos
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