Benderloch
Active member
Feathered one said:
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Fuji F30 - mixed thoughts. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter john-henry
- Start date
Marcus Conway - ebirder
Well-known member
Andrew said:
My sentiments exactly and I am using the cp 990.
SteveClifton
Well-known member
Benderloch, The F30 can be used in timer and continuous modes simultaneously (it has 3 variations within this mode; continuous, final 3 and top 3), although it only works with the top 3 option.
Effectively it takes 3 shots each time you set the timer, though obviously there is a delay of about 7 seconds each time when the camera's buffer is saving the images. It can be a toss-up when you're in a hurry between just shooting in normal mode (I use the A/S Aperture-shutter priority mostly), or, if there's more time and you want to try for a steadier shot, using the timer/continuous- top 3 combination.
I've had the F30 now for about 3 weeks, and like it a lot, but there are some weaknesses. Although it's fast in some ways (autofocus and start-up for eg), there is no way of saving your favourite settings (except for the ISO number) as I can do on my Canon A95, so each time you switch on you need to spend a few seconds setting up the camera for the conditions you are shooting in. Obviously this costs valuable time! Even if you switch to review mode to look back at your pictures, then back to shooting mode, you have to re-set all options except for the ISO again.
IMO it's best suited, to the kind of photography where you set up and spend a while actually taking photos rather than birding on the move. To use it hand-held you would need some kind of plastic tube to hold the camera at the right distance, to avoid collision with the eyepiece glass.
I was using it at a gull-roost the other day, in dark/windy conditions, and managed to get some acceptable record-shots at ISO1600 and 3200. No way could I have got anything at all with my A95 in those conditions!
As for the lack of rotatable screen, this is not a major problem to me (with an angled scope). I am used to using a rotating screen on the A95, and don't really miss it on the F30, though there are situations where it's invaluable. Also the screen itself is large, clear and easy to focus with.
Andrew, you should have no problems at all with the Swaro 65 or 80 using this camera. That's what I use (with both the zoom, and 30XW), and vignetting is not an issue. As for a super-slim compact for birding on-the move, you could do a lot worse than look at the Samsung NV3. There's been quite a lot written on here about it recently, and one of the best features for your needs is the lack of protruding zoom lens (hence, no need for an adapter). Costs about the same as the F30 too.
Effectively it takes 3 shots each time you set the timer, though obviously there is a delay of about 7 seconds each time when the camera's buffer is saving the images. It can be a toss-up when you're in a hurry between just shooting in normal mode (I use the A/S Aperture-shutter priority mostly), or, if there's more time and you want to try for a steadier shot, using the timer/continuous- top 3 combination.
I've had the F30 now for about 3 weeks, and like it a lot, but there are some weaknesses. Although it's fast in some ways (autofocus and start-up for eg), there is no way of saving your favourite settings (except for the ISO number) as I can do on my Canon A95, so each time you switch on you need to spend a few seconds setting up the camera for the conditions you are shooting in. Obviously this costs valuable time! Even if you switch to review mode to look back at your pictures, then back to shooting mode, you have to re-set all options except for the ISO again.
IMO it's best suited, to the kind of photography where you set up and spend a while actually taking photos rather than birding on the move. To use it hand-held you would need some kind of plastic tube to hold the camera at the right distance, to avoid collision with the eyepiece glass.
I was using it at a gull-roost the other day, in dark/windy conditions, and managed to get some acceptable record-shots at ISO1600 and 3200. No way could I have got anything at all with my A95 in those conditions!
As for the lack of rotatable screen, this is not a major problem to me (with an angled scope). I am used to using a rotating screen on the A95, and don't really miss it on the F30, though there are situations where it's invaluable. Also the screen itself is large, clear and easy to focus with.
Andrew, you should have no problems at all with the Swaro 65 or 80 using this camera. That's what I use (with both the zoom, and 30XW), and vignetting is not an issue. As for a super-slim compact for birding on-the move, you could do a lot worse than look at the Samsung NV3. There's been quite a lot written on here about it recently, and one of the best features for your needs is the lack of protruding zoom lens (hence, no need for an adapter). Costs about the same as the F30 too.
Ruby
Well-known member
Hi,
One of the areas for discussion in this thread is the problem of over-enthusiastic in-camera sharpening etc..... which came up when I was looking to buy my Panasonic FZ7 a few months back - it may be that many of the same issues apply equally to other camera brands.
General consensus seemed to be to turn these off/way down and to post-process in the computer where more control is available.
This forum was quite a valuable source of info
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/search.asp?query=fz7+settings&forum=1033&page=4
Rgds... Ruby
One of the areas for discussion in this thread is the problem of over-enthusiastic in-camera sharpening etc..... which came up when I was looking to buy my Panasonic FZ7 a few months back - it may be that many of the same issues apply equally to other camera brands.
General consensus seemed to be to turn these off/way down and to post-process in the computer where more control is available.
This forum was quite a valuable source of info
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/search.asp?query=fz7+settings&forum=1033&page=4
Rgds... Ruby
SteveClifton
Well-known member
Andrew, that surprises me, as my brother uses one on a Swaro 80HD, and has no problems at all. He won't mind me saying he's not into creating works of art with it, just quality record shots. He finds the zoom easier to use than the 30XW. Perhaps you should try it again. If I didn't have the F30, that's probably what I would have bought.
F30 - Pumed Whistling Duck
Taken in Queensland, Australia. (Plumed Whistling Duck Dendrocygna cytoni)
Details................ Leica APO 62 -zoom eyepiece set at x24
Camera Fuji F30 - ISO 800 - Aperature priority - centre exposure - F8 at 1/1000 - camera hand-held to eyepiece - weather bright overcast - EV -2/3 - original under exposed eventhough EXIF said over-exposed - Tripod - last 3 continuous mode - all other settings default mode.
Slight 'tweaking' in PS CS2.
Terry Dillon
Taken in Queensland, Australia. (Plumed Whistling Duck Dendrocygna cytoni)
Details................ Leica APO 62 -zoom eyepiece set at x24
Camera Fuji F30 - ISO 800 - Aperature priority - centre exposure - F8 at 1/1000 - camera hand-held to eyepiece - weather bright overcast - EV -2/3 - original under exposed eventhough EXIF said over-exposed - Tripod - last 3 continuous mode - all other settings default mode.
Slight 'tweaking' in PS CS2.
Terry Dillon
Attachments
Re FUJI F30 Plumed Whistle Duck
Neil
Did not try any other aperatures. Had the camera only for about 10 days so was concentrating on high speeds /ISO to offset camera shake as I'm hand holding to the eyepiece. As it happens the results were underexposed a little so could have tried a wider aperature. Will try variations on aperature and ISO when my adapter arrives. Quite impressed with the lack of 'noise' at high ISO's compared with my previous camera (CP4500) where max ISO for minimum noise was 100.
Thanks for your comments
Terry D
Gold Coast
Neil said:
Neil
Did not try any other aperatures. Had the camera only for about 10 days so was concentrating on high speeds /ISO to offset camera shake as I'm hand holding to the eyepiece. As it happens the results were underexposed a little so could have tried a wider aperature. Will try variations on aperature and ISO when my adapter arrives. Quite impressed with the lack of 'noise' at high ISO's compared with my previous camera (CP4500) where max ISO for minimum noise was 100.
Thanks for your comments
Terry D
Gold Coast
john-henry
Well-known member
Managed to get out and take a few pics in sunshine on Monday (7th), been very few chances with the weather lately. We all know how good the F30 is in poor light, but what about in good sunshine?
Well, the main problem noticed was how quick the whites were blown, not having spot metering doesn't help but it's one of the things we have to find ways around, mine is to give plenty of -EV and use the History Brush in Photoshop. I find doing this can make a great difference to the finished pic. On the good side this can be done without having to worry about an increase in noise levels.
The F30 can produce good images in bright sunlight as well as poor light but a little more care is needed in the exposure. To illustrate what I'm getting at I've put two pics below, the first is the original only cropped to 7"x5" at 100ppi and saved for web, the second is the finished pic with Levels adjusted several times, in small stages, using the History Brush in between each stage, USM applied, cropped to 7"x5" and saved for web.
The reason for this post is there seems so many F30 users at the moment asking how their pics can be improved that I thought I'd mention one technique that helps. I'm no expert in Photoshop, there may be better ways of doing it and maybe someone with a bit more expertise will post their methods!
The main thing is to keep taking plenty of shots and experiment with Photoshop etc. until you hit on something you like the results of.
Regards
John
PS. the F30 does have spot metering and I have a very bad memory.
Well, the main problem noticed was how quick the whites were blown, not having spot metering doesn't help but it's one of the things we have to find ways around, mine is to give plenty of -EV and use the History Brush in Photoshop. I find doing this can make a great difference to the finished pic. On the good side this can be done without having to worry about an increase in noise levels.
The F30 can produce good images in bright sunlight as well as poor light but a little more care is needed in the exposure. To illustrate what I'm getting at I've put two pics below, the first is the original only cropped to 7"x5" at 100ppi and saved for web, the second is the finished pic with Levels adjusted several times, in small stages, using the History Brush in between each stage, USM applied, cropped to 7"x5" and saved for web.
The reason for this post is there seems so many F30 users at the moment asking how their pics can be improved that I thought I'd mention one technique that helps. I'm no expert in Photoshop, there may be better ways of doing it and maybe someone with a bit more expertise will post their methods!
The main thing is to keep taking plenty of shots and experiment with Photoshop etc. until you hit on something you like the results of.
Regards
John
PS. the F30 does have spot metering and I have a very bad memory.
Attachments
Last edited:
john-henry said:
John
A different method of post processing in Photoshop.
On the original go to...........
Image - Adjustments - Shadow/Highlights
Quite a lot of control on this menu - it does help minimize 'burnt-out' highlights although if they are really burnt nothing will recover them. I tend to under expose the original to prevent this in certain pics, (Black & White birds would be the hardest). I suppose its a case of 'expose for the highlights and take care of the shadows later'
Assuming everything else is OK (Colour balance, Saturation etc) finally use the Lab method of USM (Smart Sharpen).
I took the liberty of using your originals as an example of this method...........
Pic A Your original
Pic B Your modified original
Pic C The above method using your original
Hope this gives you something else to think about!
Terry Dillon
Gold Coast
Australia
jourdaj
Well-known member
I echo John's sentiments regarding whites in bright sunlight. I've found the F30 to be a bit sensitive in exposure range and I find I need to adjust exposure comp on the fly - sometimes to -2 EV. However, its great to be able to bump up the f/stop to 8 and still shoot at 1/750 or 1/1000 sec. at 200 ISO.
john-henry
Well-known member
scampo said:
Yes, you're absolutely right Steve, I keep forgetting it's spot metering and centre focus, old age creeping in!
Regards
John
john-henry
Well-known member
tsdillon said:
Hi Terry,
Very nicely done, obviously there are many ways to achieve the same end but it's a case of using what you've got, in my case Photoshop7, which unfortunately doesn't have shadow/highlights.
Do you know if there is a plug-in of this for PS7?
Many thanks
John
normjackson
Well-known member
Not exactly shadow/highlights, but the contrast mask plugin here might be worth a try :john-henry said:
http://www.photo-plugins.com/Plugins/Plugins/Contrast-Mask.html
