On exit pupil and 32mm binoculars, i speak as a convert to the size. It is obvious the 4mm of the 8x32 is reduced from the 5mm+ of the 8x42 - the implications being less light (provided you are capable of a 4mm+ dilation of the pupil) and perhaps a trickier eye position.
However, the difficulty with reviews and eye position with 32mm is that often the correct position is a matter of familiarity and technique, which develops over time.
For someone used to larger EPs to go onto a 8x32 for a few hours in order to evaluate a review model - and then give it back - is perhaps tricky in this regard.
The binoculars i do own are various sizes. After using one model extensively, adapting to a change often takes a period of assimilation, after which hitting the sweet spot in regard to eye placement is not a problem.
I have never used 10x32mm, so this might be more difficult - i can't say.
However, 8x32mm has been my most-used format for some years - i may lose 20mins of light at the end of the day on gull roosts etc. but other than that, i can't say i've had a problem with eye placement - after a short adaption period, if i've been using something else previously.
Lee, post 105,
So I am in good company.
Gijs van Ginkel
I notice that one member on Post 5 of this thread https://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?p=4074651#post4074651 reports a 'blueish tint' for SF32.
It only demonstrates that we each see things a little differently.....
I wonder if there is a way to measure it. I tried by shooting a color chart through the binoculars and setting the same white balance, exposure...
One would need a lot of binoculars to calibrate the process though.
Another solution would be to use a spectrometer (which I have) like allbinos does but once again, not 100% sure one can easily detect a slight tint.
Lee, post 123,
There is a saying in Dutch, that someone who is very much annoyed "sees green of annoyance". But that does not apply here I suppose.
Gijs van Ginkel
My experience also. Blackouts at first with the SF 32s. Then not a problem. Just took practice.On exit pupil and 32mm binoculars, i speak as a convert to the size. It is obvious the 4mm of the 8x32 is reduced from the 5mm+ of the 8x42 - the implications being less light (provided you are capable of a 4mm+ dilation of the pupil) and perhaps a trickier eye position.
However, the difficulty with reviews and eye position with 32mm is that often the correct position is a matter of familiarity and technique, which develops over time.
For someone used to larger EPs to go onto a 8x32 for a few hours in order to evaluate a review model - and then give it back - is perhaps tricky in this regard.
The binoculars i do own are various sizes. After using one model extensively, adapting to a change often takes a period of assimilation, after which hitting the sweet spot in regard to eye placement is not a problem.
I have never used 10x32mm, so this might be more difficult - i can't say.
However, 8x32mm has been my most-used format for some years - i may lose 20mins of light at the end of the day on gull roosts etc. but other than that, i can't say i've had a problem with eye placement - after a short adaption period, if i've been using something else previously.
My experience also. Blackouts at first with the SF 32s. Then not a problem. Just took practice.
Hence the interest of measuring to avoid such individual variations.The difficulty is that much of what we think we 'see' with our eyes has actually been edited by our brain, and our brains don't always edit in exactly the same way..........
Hence the interest of measuring to avoid such individual variations.
What if you took a picture of a white piece of paper and then took a picture of the same white paper through the binoculars and compared the two side by side. Wouldn't it show the green tint?I wonder if there is a way to measure it. I tried by shooting a color chart through the binoculars and setting the same white balance, exposure...
One would need a lot of binoculars to calibrate the process though.
Another solution would be to use a spectrometer (which I have) like allbinos does but once again, not 100% sure one can easily detect a slight tint.
Lee, post 127,
That must be a typical British phenomenon, can it have any connection with the upcoming Brexit?
Gijs van Ginkel
Not a bad idea if I fix the white balance before, easier to interpret than my Gretag Macbeth color chart.What if you took a picture of a white piece of paper and then took a picture of the same white paper through the binoculars and compared the two side by side. Wouldn't it show the green tint?
I bought the SF 8x32 because I can get top quality, big FOV and having only 600g to carry.Faced with these price differences what would you buy?
I wonder if many 8X42 SF owners will switch over to the 32, (If they were me they would get both). Personally I prefer 8X42 on a regular basis - larger EP, just as I will put up with the extra weight of a quality 10X50 over a similar 10X42. As they are more frequently available, I will definitely check out the SF 8X32 next year.
Andy W.
"Calmer" is a good description of a 42 mm compared to a 32 mm and a 56mm is calmer than a 42mm. A bigger aperture is like a car with more HP versus one with less HP. The bigger aperture doesn't have to work as hard to give you a good image.Andy,
I have both so won‘t „switch over“, but as much as I like the 8x32, I find the image in the 8x42 not only brighter, but also „calmer“ when panning, and edge sharpness is better. Just my 2ct.
Canip
"Calmer" is a good description of a 42 mm compared to a 32 mm and a 56mm is calmer than a 42mm. A bigger aperture is like a car with more HP versus one with less HP. The bigger aperture doesn't have to work as hard to give you a good image.