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Digiscoping with the Nikon P6000 (1 Viewer)

Just to tell you the end of the story which I started further down this thread on whether to buy the 6000 or 8400. On Neil's advice, I went for the half-price 8400, and these are some of my first efforts.

SO much easier to use than the Canon A640, and the pic quality is heaps better too. So no regrets, and thanks Neil.

Cheers

Dave
 

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I fell back onto the P6000 today as I forgot the 52 mm DCA for the Panasonic G1 (it's now my backup camera ). Here are some images . Neil.

Nikon P6000 plus Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw30x eyepiece and DCA adapter

Hong Kong Wetland Park
Hong Kong,
China.
February 2009
 

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Just to tell you the end of the story which I started further down this thread on whether to buy the 6000 or 8400. On Neil's advice, I went for the half-price 8400, and these are some of my first efforts.

SO much easier to use than the Canon A640, and the pic quality is heaps better too. So no regrets, and thanks Neil.

Cheers

Dave

Lovely light on these birds Dave. It picks up the detail nicely. You'll be happy with the 8400. Neil.
 
Hi,

Beeing a beginner and also very impressed by all the excellent images presented in this forum I would like to ask one thing.
I know that I found somewhere on Birdforum the optimum camera settings for the Nikon P5100 when used for digiscoping but I cant find it again!! (It was quite a long time ago though)

What I really would appreciate is the recomended settings for the P6000;
Max ISO, Macro/No macro, How much should the camera be zoomed (not only to avoid vignetting but also to achieve optimum sharpness), optimum aperture setting, how much can i zoom the ocular on the scope (in "real life" considering vibrations).
My setup is a P6000 with an AT80 + 20-60 ocular.


I was doing some test shots today and they were "ok" but not more so I would really appreciate some hints to get a quicker start (it's busy days in Sweden now with all birds coming back after the winter)
 
As I had a good offer on one of these new I decided to buy one. Having spent half an hour with it only so far I'm reasonably pleased. What I find almost unbelievable however, is jokingly called 'continuous' shooting mode; about one shot a second! You therefore have to be absolutely certain that the bird is spot on as you want it to be, because the chances are you won't get another shot. Generally speaking this is a far better camera than the LX3, and a lot cheaper too, but at least the LX3 had a reasonably rapid shooting sequence. For someone who hand-holds as I do, where you really need the ability to shoot off a rapid sequence to be sure of getting a decent image, this camera is a huge let down.
Max
 
As I had a good offer on one of these new I decided to buy one. Having spent half an hour with it only so far I'm reasonably pleased. What I find almost unbelievable however, is jokingly called 'continuous' shooting mode; about one shot a second! You therefore have to be absolutely certain that the bird is spot on as you want it to be, because the chances are you won't get another shot. Generally speaking this is a far better camera than the LX3, and a lot cheaper too, but at least the LX3 had a reasonably rapid shooting sequence. For someone who hand-holds as I do, where you really need the ability to shoot off a rapid sequence to be sure of getting a decent image, this camera is a huge let down.
Max

Max,
Speed is a bit of a let down with this camera , as discussed at length in the beginning of this thread. But it is with the P5100 too so I guess we've just got used to it. Even the Canon A650IS is only 1.2 frames/sec. I find I use the Self-timer a lot more with these cameras than I do with others.
I have found that the P6000 does a reasonable job when shooting long distance over mudflats through haze. The attached photos were taken at 2/3 rd camera zoom on the Sw45x eyepiece ( about 3500 mm ) at 50 - 80 metres. Neil.
 

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Max,
Speed is a bit of a let down with this camera , as discussed at length in the beginning of this thread. But it is with the P5100 too so I guess we've just got used to it. Even the Canon A650IS is only 1.2 frames/sec. I find I use the Self-timer a lot more with these cameras than I do with others.
I have found that the P6000 does a reasonable job when shooting long distance over mudflats through haze. The attached photos were taken at 2/3 rd camera zoom on the Sw45x eyepiece ( about 3500 mm ) at 50 - 80 metres. Neil.

Hi Neil,
I'm guessing that the speed of 'continuous' is due to the larger image size, although this doesn't gel entirely with what other manufacturers are getting.
In my short time experimenting yesterday, I too found the 2/3rds camera zoom was perfectly usable, and as you say, the high pixel count does seem to be an advantage to what is clearly a fairly good lens.
Nice work on the waders Neil, I have to say I'm jealous that you seem to have hides over there that can get you close to waders. I'm not saying that they aren't around me somewhere, but I haven't found them yet!
I'll update as I progress.
Max
 
You're never too old to learn

I thought I knew most things about the P6000 having used it for almost a year , but today I learnt two new things.
1. there is a Nikon Remote Control for it ( Nikon ML-L3 ) which also works with the D90 and 8400. I always wondered what the little "remote" icons were when you went to Self-timer mode.
http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/ProductDetail.page?pid=4730
2. using a third party adapter with 52 mm thread gets your lens much closer to the eyepiece than the Nikon adapter (UR-E21 43 mm ). This now enables me to digiscope in the "sweet spot" (Green Macro zone ) without having to use my Special Balance Bar on the Sw 30x and 45x eyepieces. Not with the 20 - 60x zoom unfortunately.
Neil

Hong Kong,
China.
June 2009
 
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I've been in the local park for the last couple of weeks photographing bitterns and waterlilies. I finally got around to using the P6000 in the last couple of days and here are a few images taken with the 30x eyepiece.
Neil.
ps distance was 7 - 35 metres

Nikon P6000 plus Swarovski STS80HD scope and SW30x eyepiece and DCA adapter

Hong Kong Park,
Hong Kong,
China.
June 2009
 

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Now that I have the new Swarovski zoom eyepiece and the UCA (universal type adapter ) I've been having fun with the P6000 ( the G1 and kit zoom don't work to well with zooms ) again. Here are a few images from today with this new setup.
Neil.

Nikon P6000 plus Swarovski STS80HD scope and 25-50x eyepiece and UCA adapter

Hong Kong
China.
July 2009
 

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P6000

I own a P5100 however I noticed that the P6000 comes with GPS capability.
Does anybody use this?
Does the camera come with mapping software?

This could be very useful for bird recording
 
The GPS is not areason for upgrade I think. I don't have a P6000, but there were some reviews. Typical consens: integrated GPS is a nice idea, but not very good implemented.
You can use also a normal GPS mouse with included track memory. There are very nice and cheap devices available. Afterwards you can sync the track with the pics, because every camera put timestamps on the pics. Just take a shot at the beginnig of the track to have a sync point. The Openstreetmap.org people doing this a lot.
 
I own a P5100 however I noticed that the P6000 comes with GPS capability.
Does anybody use this?
Does the camera come with mapping software?

This could be very useful for bird recording

I didn't get the P6000 for the GPS but it's there and works. If you are travelling in remote areas it could be useful. More importantly is the ED lens,Raw , wide lens and Remote Control.
Neil.
 
Yesterday I visited the fair "Bird Munich" and tried some cameras with my Swaro ATS80HD, one was the Nikon P6000. Was impressed so far, the screen is much better compared to my actual A590.
BUT: the selftimer (and also the remote control shutter setting!) switched off after every picture. I don't find a way around this in menu - is there a trick? The Canons don't do this, so I can wait with remote control in hand and press now and then without touching the camera again.
 
Digiscoped with Kowa Prominar 883 + 25x LER + Nikon Coolpix P6000 + IR remote

Distance to Fulica atra was 10 meters
Distance to Rana esculenta was minimum focusing distance = 5 metres
 

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