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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Bushnell 7x26mm Elite e2 Compact Binoculars (1 Viewer)

Ah, now I get it. But aren't you still basically using them like dual hinge compacts anyway? You still open both sides, just to varying degrees. So why not just take them out, open them however they will, and use them that way?...

Unfolding dual-hinge pocket bins with positive stops asymmetrically has three advantages:

1. Speed/simplicity in unfolding (no need to check for symmetry, can be done by feel).

2. Results in a consistent unfolded shape, so it always fits the hand the same way, which facilitates automating hold them to the eyes in a consistent way, which facilitates seeing through tiny bins with tiny exit pupils.

3. Allows positioning the focus knob under the pad of the focusing finger rather than the finger tip, making focus operation faster and easier (since the reach is more similar to a full-sized bin). The asymmetrical single-hinged Zeiss Victory accomplishes the same, but it is only a match to those who focus with the fingers of the right hand. Dual hinge designs like the Leica Ultravid allow the bins to be unfolded asymmetrically for either right or left hand focusing.

--AP
 
Unfolding dual-hinge pocket bins with positive stops asymmetrically has three advantages:

1. Speed/simplicity in unfolding (no need to check for symmetry, can be done by feel).

2. Results in a consistent unfolded shape, so it always fits the hand the same way, which facilitates automating hold them to the eyes in a consistent way, which facilitates seeing through tiny bins with tiny exit pupils.

3. Allows positioning the focus knob under the pad of the focusing finger rather than the finger tip, making focus operation faster and easier (since the reach is more similar to a full-sized bin). The asymmetrical single-hinged Zeiss Victory accomplishes the same, but it is only a match to those who focus with the fingers of the right hand. Dual hinge designs like the Leica Ultravid allow the bins to be unfolded asymmetrically for either right or left hand focusing.

--AP

Alexis, Bob: I will give it a trial run. :t:
 
As for the Nikon 8x20, well it's still hamstrung by being an 8x20. I don't think you can escape that basic law of optics.

Mark

For me, a big part of that is the 8x. I'm accumulating old 7x20s, 7x21s, and 7x25s.
All reverse porro, though. The eye ease, shake, brightness, depth of field,
and exit pupil are all better for a pocket size. In cheaper models the sharpness is far better at 7x.
Those 7x21 'Brick' Bushnell/Tasco/Jasons are all crisp and easy to use.

PS: Bushnell sort of blew it on the 7x26 for the same reasons Nikon did. Too much aluminum, too much rubber. The Custom used to be smaller, lighter.

They were going for the weather seal and high precision at the same time.
The older Mirador-style 'moving eyeglass' focuser is also very exposed to bumps and dings. I have to be more careful when out with mine.
Still, the newer Elite/Customs are bulky. Sort of a 'piled ham sandwich'. Get rid of the rubber,
some redesign, and maybe a slip to 7x24 would help. I have some ruggedized
Bushnell 8x23s that trounce models above and below size-wise. Not bulky, either.
At 7x23 + wide view they would be so much better.


I may still succumb to the 7x26 Customs anyway.
 
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Wait: correction.


At least now, in the online blurbs,
the Elites are specifically described as: Waterproof.

Maybe they weren't before, but they are now.
 
I think Bushnell uses the same description for all it's Elite series, which is to say it's probably not accurate for the 7x26, only the bigger roofs. Below, I've pasted their description from the website. I like the little asterisk next to "waterproof." It doesn't lead to anything that I can find, but I'm thinking it was intended to be a disclaimer for the 7x26. The only way to waterproof the 7x26, I think, would be a window pane in front of the objectives.


"Already a 60+ year masterwork of ruggedness, clarity and light transmission, the Elite® gets a significant performance upgrade this year with the addition of ED Prime glass. Fully multi-coated and featuring XTR technology, our Advanced Fusion Hybrid Lens system delivers 99.7% light transmission per lens. The result is unmatched edge-to-edge clarity, contrast and color-true imagery – now pushed to the highest levels with the use of ED Prime Glass. RainGuard HD coating eliminates lens fogging, boosts brightness and scatters moisture even faster than original RainGuard. Elite binoculars are also 100% waterproof,* fogproof and built around a tough, lightweight magnesium chassis for reliability in the most extreme conditions."
 
As pointed out, that's the general blurb for the series. The paperwork that came with mine made clear they were not waterproof.

Wait: correction.


At least now, in the online blurbs,
the Elites are specifically described as: Waterproof.

Maybe they weren't before, but they are now.
 
Ah...odd. And yet they have osme special fog and rain treatment on the glass.
With other products, I have noticed the asterisk often means "not to any depth".
In other words, it could rain on the thing but you can't drop it in a stream
without leakage.

You can waterproof without a window: you need O-rings for the sliding of the objectives
in that case. The focuser needs to overpower any stiction easily, though.

Paul, do the objectives slide when focusing?
 
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It is worthwhile reading this thread as the subject has been discussed before.

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=222858

I have just visited a couple of Bushnell web sites and in EU one is says specifically that it is not waterproof or fog proof. In Elite section of the Bushnell.com (US?) site it says that the Elites are waterproof but has an asterisk which if followed to the bottom of the description says - except model 620726 - which is the 7x26 Custom Elite.

Don't take any notice of E2 in any advertising description 7x26 Custom Elite as I don't think that Bushnell have ever used that designation. The 7x26 Custom Elite is still the current model and hasn't been superceded.

I have the latest model and I wouldn't take it out in heavy rain!

Stan
 
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I get a little peeved by the whole waterproofing thing, actually.
I never go out in the driving rain to watch birds, and if it's drizzly I use an umbrella..
...for me! I generally do not observe birds and animals whilst apple-bobbing in a creak,
and I seal nice things like radios and phone when in a canoe.

Meanwhile, the O-rings can wreak havoc on focuser smoothness at the lower tier of
pricing. (moving eye piece or moving objective).

It all seems silly to me. If it's cold out I wipe off my classic stuff and put it in a gallon
poly bag before coming in. No problems. Lens caps seem ludicrous, too. Ergonomically
annoying and time-consuming because there are 4 of them.

Just put the dang thing in a bag and leave those silly skin flaps and bottle caps home.

If there is a seal on the Elites I only want to know if it glides easy.
 
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I get a little peeved by the whole waterproofing thing, actually.
I never go out in the driving rain to watch birds, and if it's drizzly I use an umbrella..
...for me! I generally do not observe birds and animals whilst apple-bobbing in a creak,
and I seal nice things like radios and phone when in a canoe.

Meanwhile, the O-rings can wreak havoc on focuser smoothness at the lower tier of
pricing. (moving eye piece or moving objective).

It all seems silly to me. If it's cold out I wipe off my classic stuff and put it in a gallon
poly bag before coming in. No problems. Lens caps seem ludicrous, too. Ergonomically
annoying and time-consuming because there are 4 of them.

Just put the dang thing in a bag and leave those silly skin flaps and bottle caps home.

If there is a seal on the Elites I only want to know if it glides easy.

I carry a pair of binoculars in my boat bag and there have been plenty of times in rough weather where the bag has been soaked. I used to fish quite a lot with a bro inlaw who was a striper guide and the binocs are great for watching birds working baitfish. He had a pair of old swaros that rode on the console of his boat for probably 20 years.
 
I get a little peeved by the whole waterproofing thing actually......

Meanwhile, the O-rings can wreak havoc on focuser smoothness at the lower tier of
pricing. (moving eye piece or moving objective).

Just out of curiosity, is it possible to remove the o-rings without further damaging the binocular?

Just a thought. I have never tried it myself but a person doesn't care about waterproofing then do they need to be there? I am guessing they are underneath the eyepiece assembly. So, if that was removed.....

I know you tinker with repairing/disassembling binoculars which is the only reason I am suggesting it.
 
Heh....you mind-reader!

I have 5 similar pairs of various mechanical qualities:
--Barska 8x30 (lowest, bought busted, $8 + 12S+H)
--Celestron 8x30 ($40 including S+H, fixed focuser)
--Celestron 8x30 ($40 including S+H, the silly thing worked)
--Yosemite 8x30 (best build, focuser upgrade)
--Yosemite 6x30 (best build, optically less sensitive to stiction)

Since the working Celestrons don't have any Loctite to clean off yet
(it's not hard, but takes a little while), I can pop the rings off those and
give myself a LocTite'd focuser too. Add a little extra grease and we're ready.
(there is extra grease on the oldies always to act as a dust trap, semi-seal)
The good Celestrons don't have the shimmed focus knob, either.

So, I'll be pre-tested for Yosemites should I want to do those too.

The Barskas are a bit too cheap. The occulars are shy one element and
the focuser arms are not as stiff. They are good, but not optically super.

So, late Friday night is time for "hot lights and cold steel", as the surgeons say.
I'll check the rattle before loc-tite'ing. Too much rattle and you've got
collimation trouble.

--------update: I did the deed. It's posted under 'other binocs'
..it came out really excellent.
 
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