• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Swarovski Universal tripod adapter review (2 Viewers)

Hi Ted,

This won't secure the optics as well as individual barrel wraps, but I'll compensate with stronger 3\16" to 1\4" shock cords!

Playing around with the prototype, I'd say there is a potential for stronger shock cords to overcome friction in the bridge and mis-adjust the interpupillar distance.

I was planning on using 20/127" shock cords 3:), but am playing around with removable cable ties at the moment.

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi Ted,



Playing around with the prototype, I'd say there is a potential for stronger shock cords to overcome friction in the bridge and mis-adjust the interpupillar distance...

Regards,

Henning

Good point...may just stay with the 3\16" SC.

As per Kevin's creation (post #13), I'll be adding to the top bridge 1\8" to 1\4" sponge neoprene adhesive pads (see HERE) for tight restive control of any barrel IPD movement!?! May be easier to say than do, "one size fits all", but the fun will be in the journey of experimentation and achievement!! ;)

Ted
 
Last edited:
Hi Ted,

This is really cool, thanks for sharing! I made perfect laser copies of these, but their 2-D status just does not function right, at least not on paper? :h?: 3:)

If you really want to print the part in 3D, of course you need a 3D file, which I can't upload here.

I plan on uploading it to thingiverse once I've debugged it ... as you can see from my prototype, it's not quite perfect yet :)

In case you're interested, I'd be happy to send you a pre-release version of the thing, but you might end up printing something that doesn't quite work yet.

Regards,

Henning
 
...In case you're interested, I'd be happy to send you a pre-release version of the thing, but you might end up printing something that doesn't quite work yet.

Regards,

Henning

Thanks Henning,

Actually, my pro color laser printer MFP M277dw does great 2D and although real interesting, have not\probably will not be stepping up to any 3D printing tech equipment. As per Kevin's creation, I have a woodworking shop with the tools and skills to create the holder...just need good pics, some general specs and I'll be creating...Sawdust!!! ;)

Ted
 
Hi Ted,

Actually, my pro color laser printer MFP M277dw does great 2D and although real interesting, have not\probably will not be stepping up to any 3D printing tech equipment. As per Kevin's creation, I have a woodworking shop with the tools and skills to create the holder...just need good pics, some general specs and I'll be creating...Sawdust!!! ;)

Ah, I see! :)

There's actually a program called Pepakura that creates cut-out kits from 3D objects, so don't give up on your laser printer yet!

However, a nice woodworking shop will probably give you more durable results, especially if you plan on use them anywhere where rain is a possiblity ;-)

One think that OpenSCAD regrettably lacks is a way to output nice dimensioned drawings for the objects ones creates.

All I can do are projections and cuts, and screenshots with a coarse and not configurable scale in the background:

Parametric Binocular Tripod Adapter 1.jpg Parametric Binocular Tripod Adapter 2.jpg Parametric Binocular Tripod Adapter 3.jpg

One tickmark are 10 mm in this case.

Regards,

Henning
 
Lots of ingenuity shown on here, and I like the effort. But for most, keep it simple get
the original Berlebach Binocular Support, for only $34.95, from Mr. Star Guy, here in the
US.

These have the nice rubber strap, and is fully adjustable. That is where I got mine.

Jerry
 
I added another cradle for both tubes and tried it this way but it was over kill and now I use 1 1/2" wide velcor strap across the top
 

Attachments

  • DAD02446 copy.jpg
    DAD02446 copy.jpg
    84.5 KB · Views: 210
  • DAD02447 copy.jpg
    DAD02447 copy.jpg
    83.4 KB · Views: 204
  • DAD02448 copy.jpg
    DAD02448 copy.jpg
    88 KB · Views: 178
Hi Jerry,

Lots of ingenuity shown on here, and I like the effort. But for most, keep it simple get
the original Berlebach Binocular Support, for only $34.95, from Mr. Star Guy, here in the
US.

I'm certainly glad traditional German craftsmanship is appreciated in America, too :)

The advantages of Kevin's design according to my impression are:

- Recess for the nose (ergonomics)
- Binoculars held by more than one strap (redundancy against failure/user error)
- Top of the bridge not pushed down by strap(s) (which might not be a factor with Porros)

Disadvantages of my prototype:

- Binocular needs to be inserted carefully into four loops
- Will only work as intended with binoculars where the rear strap doesn't run over the focus wheel (as on my Nikon Monarch 8 x 42)
- Strap ends below the platform might interfere with some quick release plate types' locking arm (as my Velbon's)

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi again,

Disadvantages of my prototype:

- Binocular needs to be inserted carefully into four loops
- Will only work as intended with binoculars where the rear strap doesn't run over the focus wheel (as on my Nikon Monarch 8 x 42)

An update: I've finally gotten around to fit the shock cords and cord stops.

The binoculars now sit very firmly on the platform. I'm amazed at just how good this "feels" - Kevin's approach is just great!

I also found that my impression that the shock cords would interfere with the focus wheel was unfounded. I used 4 mm shock cords that have an outer textile cover, and the focus wheel slips past them effortlessly.

Here's what it looks like now:

P1310165s.jpg

I think it probably would make sense to cut down the platform to a size hardly exceeding the holes for the shock cords, and to provide lateral cut-outs. These changes would make it possible to leave the platform attached to the binoculars, and still conveniently use them for viewing.

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi,

This one pretty good to but no one wanted to give it a comment :smoke:

Looks very competent actually! My initial thought was that it might not be entirely stable in elevation due to having just what's basically a single run of cord across the top, but on further thought, the cradles for the barrels are probably long enough that this doesn't matter?

Due to the cradles being adjustable by screws, it seems to be very good for keeping the selected inter-pupillar distance, which on my variant potentially could be mis-adjusted accidentally. On the other hand, sharing the binoculars between people with different inter-pupillar distance might not be as easy as with my variant.

I suppose the width of the plate makes your version a bit inconvenient to use if it's not on the tripod?

Great out-of-the-box thinking with regard to the use of that sliding plate, by the way! :)

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi again,

I think it probably would make sense to cut down the platform to a size hardly exceeding the holes for the shock cords, and to provide lateral cut-outs. These changes would make it possible to leave the platform attached to the binoculars, and still conveniently use them for viewing.

Here's what the draft looks like now:

New Binocular Tripod Adapter.jpg New Binocular Tripod Adapter 2.jpg

The shock cords run in recesses so they don't get in the way of the tripod plate..

The platform also has a (configurable) riser on the bottom to ensure that there's enough clearance between tripod attachment elements, such as the quick release lever on my Velbon head, and the cord stops.

The idea is to print a "universal" adapter dimensioned to accept the largest roof prism binocular pair you intend to mount, which hopefully is small and light enough to be carried on the binoculars all the time with minimum extra encumbrance.

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi again,



An update: I've finally gotten around to fit the shock cords and cord stops.

The binoculars now sit very firmly on the platform. I'm amazed at just how good this "feels" - Kevin's approach is just great!

I also found that my impression that the shock cords would interfere with the focus wheel was unfounded. I used 4 mm shock cords that have an outer textile cover, and the focus wheel slips past them effortlessly.

Here's what it looks like now:

View attachment 664671

I think it probably would make sense to cut down the platform to a size hardly exceeding the holes for the shock cords, and to provide lateral cut-outs. These changes would make it possible to leave the platform attached to the binoculars, and still conveniently use them for viewing.

Regards,

Henning

Nice job Henning!

I'll be quite interested to know how the lateral cutouts work to ease the use of the bin when handheld with the mount attached.

Cheers
 
Hi Kevin,

Nice job Henning!

Thanks! :)

I'll be quite interested to know how the lateral cutouts work to ease the use of the bin when handheld with the mount attached.

I printed the adapter now, and it's clearly more convenient to hold than the previous prototype. The weight of the main part without cords and cord stops is 36 g.

After handling it for a few minutes, it became clear that it could be further improved by cutting away even more material to allow the thumbs to grip the middle of the barrel.

After applying the cuts to the 3D model, this is what it looks like now:

Parametric Binocular Tripod Adapter 3.png

It would be possible to make the arms rectancular in the overhead view, but due to the way FDM printing works, it's actually easier to print as a single piece in the more complex shape.

Regards,

Henning
 
My design ditches the single heavy strap in favor of a captive shock cord arrangement. This adds redundancy for safety and even if loose "captures" the bin rendering it secure.

The shock cord also tensions each barrel separately eliminating the downward pressure at the hinge assuring the IPD isn't affected.

The peaked design of the platform, with neoprene pads, and 4 point tensioning eliminates any possibility of movement or failure.

Another add I did was to make a relief for the bridge of the nose. This makes using smaller bins much friendlier..

Last it has an Arca type plate attached to the bottom for universal fit on any Arca type screw clamp..

Nice. That would be an easy 3D print . Glue pads down, and use a couple of button head screws to secure a long slot/two slot Arca plate. Alternatively, you could produce yours in burled walnut or maple. ;)
 
After applying the cuts to the 3D model, this is what it looks like now:

View attachment 665259

It would be possible to make the arms rectancular in the overhead view, but due to the way FDM printing works, it's actually easier to print as a single piece in the more complex shape.

This has inspired me to make another mount with design elements similar to yours. :t:

I'm thinking a two bridge layout with a connecting plate with an overall thinner cross section and made of maple this time for the added material strength. I'm leaving on vacation for a bit but when I get back I'll start on it.
 
Hi Kevin,

This has inspired me to make another mount with design elements similar to yours. :t:

I'm thinking a two bridge layout with a connecting plate with an overall thinner cross section and made of maple this time for the added material strength. I'm leaving on vacation for a bit but when I get back I'll start on it.

Sounds great! :) Very good point about the additional strength - I printed the "extremely cut out" version now, and it snapped apart in the middle when I wiggled it a bit to test it.

I super-glued the pieces to fix the adapter. The extra cut-out for the thumb makes handling of the binoculars very easy even with the adapter attached, so the idea worked as intended.

Still, it's "back to the drawing board" to increase the width of the bottom section to increase its strength.

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi again,

Still, it's "back to the drawing board" to increase the width of the bottom section to increase its strength.

Here's version 6 of the adapter:

Parametric Binocular Tripod Adapter 6.png

This is a bit of a paradigm change in having horizontal holes (bores?) instead of vertical ones.

It's non-intuitive, but the horizontal holes allow mounting a greater range of binoculars as they will not be blocked even by large barrels. Additionally, the cord stops are out of the way of a pivoting quick-release arm, as used on my tripod head, and don't protude below the adapter (which will be resting on one's belly when carrying the binocuars from a neck strap).

The odd arrangement of cord holes allows the ocular-end cords to be threaded to the objective end of the adapter so that all four cord stops will be on that end. This will get them out of the way, as previously, they could interfere either with the tip of one's nose, or with the thumb holding the binoculars, depending on which side of the ocular-end bridge they were mounted.

With the holes being horizontal, the bridge can also be farther away from the user's face than with vertical holes, which need material between the cord and the user's face to retain the cords.

(The reason I'm using polygonal holes is just that they print more cleanly in the Fused Material Depositing print process I'm using than round holes.)

Regards,

Henning
 
Hi again,

Here's version 6 of the adapter

Version 6 is pretty good already, but immediately when I looked at the printed version, it was obvious to me that it could be built quite a bit flatter and smaller overall.

Here's version 7:

Parametric Binocular Tripod Adapter 7.png

Regards,

Henning
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top