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Upgrading/changing from Nikon Monarch 7 10x42 (1 Viewer)

I think after more reading I am going to stick with 8x42, so I will look into those and see what I can find.

I have seen a few times that HG do get compared to the SLC, not that they are as good or better, but almost comparable - which is high praise in itself?

From the reviews/comparisons I have read, the HG usually fare better than the Conquest HD?
 
I've actually not handled or used them as there are no stockists locally. I currently use Vanguard Endeavor EDII 8x42 which are Really good for the price but fancied a 10x42 for more detail.
Ian
 
It's funny you should say that about the reports on the HG as I ordered them from Amazon first....but that turned out to be a scam price so I resorted to the Conquest instead. I think either will be excellent. The 8 is a good field of view but I have some Nikon Prostaff 12x50 and the magnification is good but light transmission bad that's why I'm now going to a so called sub Alpha to get that true clarity and wow factor.
 
I think after more reading I am going to stick with 8x42, so I will look into those and see what I can find.

I have seen a few times that HG do get compared to the SLC, not that they are as good or better, but almost comparable - which is high praise in itself?

From the reviews/comparisons I have read, the HG usually fare better than the Conquest HD?

Hi,

the Monarch HG 8x42 is very compact and light for its class plus sports an extra wide field of view - which of course is nice but those extreme specs usually come at a price...

- it is probably not as rugged as some larger and heavier examples - who is going to repeat the youtube torture test done with the Conquest HD with it?

- the field flattening is not quite comparable to that of a Nikon EDG/SE, a Swaro EL or a Zeiss SF. The contenders at its pricepoint at around $1000 don't have field flattening.

Joachim
 
It's funny you should say that about the reports on the HG as I ordered them from Amazon first....but that turned out to be a scam price so I resorted to the Conquest instead. I think either will be excellent. The 8 is a good field of view but I have some Nikon Prostaff 12x50 and the magnification is good but light transmission bad that's why I'm now going to a so called sub Alpha to get that true clarity and wow factor.

Are you using the 12x freehand? :eek!:
 
Hi,

the Monarch HG 8x42 is very compact and light for its class plus sports an extra wide field of view - which of course is nice but those extreme specs usually come at a price...

- it is probably not as rugged as some larger and heavier examples - who is going to repeat the youtube torture test done with the Conquest HD with it?

- the field flattening is not quite comparable to that of a Nikon EDG/SE, a Swaro EL or a Zeiss SF. The contenders at its pricepoint at around $1000 don't have field flattening.

Joachim

For someone who only wants it for general use, is Field Flattening important?
 
I’d go for a Canon 12x36, cost effective, pretty wide field (60degree), nice and crisp.
Easy to see Fine details a 15x can’t unless very securely held (testing them on distant text really shows the differences). You can use them one handed if you want to show off, I used one as my only binocular for many years. Stored them in a pelicase to keep them protected.
Now I mainly use a Nikon 8x30E2 and a large 70mm pair (tripod mounted) for high power close in detail. You could always get a monopod to provide some cheaper and easier to carry stability for a 10/12x pair.

Peter
 
For someone who only wants it for general use, is Field Flattening important?

No, with hand held binoculars not at all - especially not with a wide field of view.

You will see movement in the not so sharp edge regions anyways and can quickly adjust the direction to get the bird into the center.

More important for instruments on a tripod where adjusting the direction takes a bit of time...

PS: And yes, a pair of Canon stabilised bins in 10x or above will outperform any hand-held 10x...

Joachim
 
Yes I am using them freehand but they are reinforced polycarbonate and are the same weight as my magnesium bodied 8x42's. The 12's only have a field of 85m...and are better for distance viewing. You'll pay a lot more for a decent 12 and then they'll be heavier and need a tripod to get steady vision.
The Zeiss Conquest are aluminium bodied with 115m FOV and do have field flattening and superb lense technology and shouldn't cause hand shake as they weigh the same as the 8's. Their guarantee is brill also.
I wouldn't advocate the 12's....8 or 10's are the best for birding. You need the FOV to follow the birds and to take in the surrounding area to spot others as you pan.
Ian
 
Is it possible to get rid of the shakes (remember it's not major, but noticeable, intermittently) with some practise? As in improve the method of holding them perhaps, or whatever else?
 
If this was the case, why are these not much more prevalent versus their non stabilised competitors?

Because 8x is fine for most and can be held reasonably well.

And of course there is batteries to not forget and the instruments have hard to repair electronics and delicate mechanics in them which makes them a bit less rugged than normal bins.

Also a spotting scope on a tripod will offer much higher magnification than the largest stab bins...

In my opinion you cannot really train to hold a 10x pair better - some models might have better ergonomics than others, but even my SE 10x42 (which is said to have very good balance and is light at 600g or so) is noticeably more shaky than an 8x pair...

Joachim
 
People sometimes express concern about “fragility” or possibility of “electronics failure” with the canons. Another criticism is a “floating” residual slight motion in the view, which doesn’t bother me, the newer models have even better stabilisation. I think they’re sealed, but maybe not the same rating as people seem to assume (my 8x30 aren't sealed and give lovely views). I treat all my Optics with respect and mine are nearly 15yrs old and still give lovely steady views. They’re “different” and not from the normal alpha companies (For the Optics experts) and are a bit costly (for people who expect perfection for $100) so people don’t run out to embrace them, even when the views are good. I’d try to have a look through some, so you know what we’re talking about. If people want to use their binoculars as a hammer or underwater then they’re not for them. Hope you find a solution that works for you!

Peter
 
jring: Thank you for your input. I need to do more reading.

wllmspd: Yeh that makes sense. I am going to try and get to a dealer that will allow me some time with the Swaro's.
 
People sometimes express concern about “fragility” or possibility of “electronics failure” with the canons. I treat all my Optics with respect and mine are nearly 15yrs old and still give lovely steady views.

Hi,

yes - for most users the Canons would work just fine... but there are some who need a Zeiss Conquest HD for its durability ;-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qri4RuT7Bk

I'd rather not try this with a pair of stabilised bins...

Joachim
 
Or with my trusty old wide angle Porros. I don’t think the Zeiss would survive long with taofledermaus and his stock of shotgun ammo. If I ever win the lottery I might look to get some “top end” bins, if only they only have a properly wide field!

Peter
 
I went on an extensive test tonight, comparing the 2 binoculars that I have:

Bushnell Trophy XLT 8x32
Nikon Monarch 7 10x42

Not to compare the binoculars directly against each but to compare the magnifications. After an hour and half, it's quite clear that I much prefer the 8x, not the 10x.

I think the 10x almost made me feel slightly sick, is that possible?

I'm going to get rid of my M7, and get a good 8x.

Still on the cards;
Nikon Monarch HG 8x42

I now also have added to my shortlist;
Leica Ultravid 8x42 HD Plus

Reason for choosing the Leica is because it seems to have the characteristics that I think I'll enjoy (vivid colours/contrast).

Either way, I need an 8x, not a 10x.
 
Well, it seems you have decided that 8X is best for you, and that is what I was going to recommend
after reading all the posts. I like Nikons, and have the Monarch 7 10x42 and the MHG 10x42, so not
having the 8X does lend me to give some advice on the model differences.

The Monarch HG is very good and is worth it if you decide to spend the money. The Monarch 7 is also
a very good binocular, and you may very well be pleased with it if you get the 8x42.

Long term, the Monarch HG is a better choice, it is lighter, has better, higher quality construction, and if
you use your optics a lot, it will be worth it for the view and value.

Good luck, and let us know how you end up.

Jerry
 
NDHunter: Thank you for your reply. I do really like the magnification at 10x but I don't think I can "relax" with them. I was finding the 8x much easier to deal with.

Have you had a chance to use the Leica that are also on my shortlist, (Leica Ultravid 8x42)? Just wondering how they compare to the Monarch HG, in which way are they better?
 
NDHunter: Thank you for your reply. I do really like the magnification at 10x but I don't think I can "relax" with them. I was finding the 8x much easier to deal with.

Have you had a chance to use the Leica that are also on my shortlist, (Leica Ultravid 8x42)? Just wondering how they compare to the Monarch HG, in which way are they better?

I have owned the Leica UV 8x42HD for several years, I just sold mine to my brother last month.

I prefer the Nikon Monarch HG because I found the image is better and brighter.

Jerry
 
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