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South Africa 2017, On the Path of the Nocturnals. (1 Viewer)

Mokola National Park.

The day to kill between the two nights at Marrick, I had not originally planned to visit this national park and thus had not done any research. Indeed, as I found out, I did not even know exactly where it was, eventually having to stop at a rural police station to ask where the entrance was! In the event however, Mokola was a revelation, truly an excellent locality – I was tempted there by the possibility of Black Wildebeest, I left with far more, 22 mammal species included!

A reserve of rolling grassland and acacia savannah, I picked up a map at the national park reception and then headed off, not before finding out that White Rhino also inhabited the reserve, a very pleasing surprise. Wary of potential poaching though, the reserve staff do not share information as to the best areas to find these mighty beasts, thus I would have to hope for luck. Fairly think bush in the first area I explored, Spotted Thick-knee roosting under an acacia, Acacia Pied Barbet, Lesser Honeyguide and Golden-breasted Bunting also seen, plus a range of common mammals such as Springbok, Gemsbok, Blue Wildebeest and Warthog. Also nice, both Tsessebe and Red Hartebeest seemed rather common, small herds of each ambling through the mixed grassland/bush environment.

Even better however was what I encountered a few kilometres further: rounding a corner, some rather unmistakable dollops aside the track, large fresh dollops almost elephant-like – it had to be rhino poop, I was in rhino country! And sure enough, in a grassy clearing not more than a few hundred metres further, there stood two most impressive White Rhinos. Two White Rhinos doing absolutely nothing, just standing back to back and appearing to largely snooze! No complaints from my car though, having not seen them in Kruger, I thought we had missed out on this trip, so this was really an unexpected bonus. But then the bonuses went on and on ...bumped into another three half an hour later, then a mother and youngster and then yet another three, these last ones trotting in to a waterhole. Ten White Rhinos in the space of an hour!

Still hadn't seen Black Wildebeest however, so began to traverse the national park to reach the northern end, an area far more open. Sickle-winged Chat and Wattled Starlings on route, so too Kudu, Vervet Monkeys and Baboons. And then I got to the open grasslands, a herd of Buffalo at the fringe and then a majestic swathe of golden grass stretching into the distance, nicely dotted with Burchell's Zebras and, just as I had hoped, Black Wildebeests! Zigzagged the area, counted at least 90 Black Wildebeest, all most distinctive with their shaggy white manes, plus encountered plenty more too – amongst the mammals, six Bat-eared Foxes, 18 Meerkats and, looking most resplendent, two elegant Sables. Good birding too, grassland species including two Small Buttonquails running along the track, two Ludwig's Bustards in the grass, one Northern Black Korhaan, a Three-banded Courser also beside a track and quite a number of passerines in good numbers, Southern Anteating Chats and Capped Wheatears included, plus African Pipit, Buffy Pipit, Shaft-tailed Whydahs and Yellow Canaries.

All in all, for a locality that I had not planned to visit, I was impressed no end. Departing, I also added Steenbok and Yellow Mongoose, as well as two Roan on neighbouring property, though these were likely stocked animals.

Then it was back to Marrick ...
 
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Big beasties ...
 

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You sure had a lot of luck in Mokala. We didn’t see a single rhino! Nor did we see black wildebeest or sable or bat eared foxes there for that matter! Hope that your last night drive was also productive :).
 
You sure had a lot of luck in Mokala. We didn’t see a single rhino! Nor did we see black wildebeest or sable or bat eared foxes there for that matter!

Really did it by looking for habitat that looked good for the respective things. Did you go to the big open grassland area at the furthest north end of the reserve to look for the Black Wildebeest? I had no info that they would be here, but just guessed that the open grass would attract them.
 
Marrick, Night Two.

Far better equipped this night, togged up with all the clothes I had and brought my sleeping bag too! No Smith's Red Rock Rabbits this night, but other small mammals seemed in greater numbers – tallied at least 50 Springhares and, in contrast to just two Cape Hares the night before, saw six Cape Hares and two Scrub Hares on this. Also a Pygmy Mouse darting along in front of the jeep, freezing in the spotlight.

Followed pretty much the same route as the night before and for a good half hour or so results were rather similar ...until the spotter picked up bright eyeshine. Ahead, left, two relatively small mammals were pacing a patch of grassland, we pulled up adjacent. Aardwolves! A pair slowly zigzagging the ground, peering our way occasionally. Superficially similar to small hyenas, this was another much desired species and I was very pleased to be finally watching them. Over the next ten to fifteen minutes they wandered about, crossing over the track in front and slowly wandering up a gentle slope adjacent. Then something remarkable – as they disappeared between acacia bushes, the spotter began to swing the spotlight back and fro to refind then, me following with binoculars. A pair of eyes in the grass just to the right of where they had vanished. Yep, a Aardwolf again I supposed, albeit partially hidden. Then it jumped out into the open however ...an audible gasp from me, it was not an Aardwolf, but a small spotty cat! Black-footed Cat! One of Africa's most localised and difficult cats to see, there it was ...for all of two or three seconds until it moved into the acacia scrub and vanished. Brief but memorable.

Further, one Barn Owl quartered the grasslands, seven Bat-eared Foxes occupied the dusty patch where four had been the night before and then, right on cue, the same Aardvark as the night before came trotting past as we neared the spot where we had previously seen it!

Success, the grand slam of 'aards', Aardwolf, Aardvark, Aardcat (broad translation of the Afrikaans for Black-footed Cat, 'Anthill Cat')

Returned to the chalet rather happy that night.
 
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Really did it by looking for habitat that looked good for the respective things. Did you go to the big open grassland area at the furthest north end of the reserve to look for the Black Wildebeest? I had no info that they would be here, but just guessed that the open grass would attract them.

No I don't think we did. We came out the lilydale entrance. I think we spent most of ourtime driving the loops from the main gate and I don't think we got beyond Lilydale. That's disappointing.
 
22 June. Kimberly-Karoo.

Mostly a travel day, but first a quick stop in Kimberly, the plan being to find Bradfield's Swifts. Initial idea was to check the De Beers Big Hole, a breeding locality, but a touristy entrance and requirement to pay both parking and entrance fee brought out the Scrooge in me and I instead opted for a stop in the downtown McDonald's, welcome to the smaller one in the party. Additional motivation, the car park is as good a place as any to scan the city skies, an also reliable way to find the swifts. And indeed it was, swifts were whirling around in no time at all – in a fairly short period, a grand total of 30+ Bradfield's Swifts, plus 20+ Alpine Swifts and 40+ Little Swifts. Also had ideas of checking a large dam to the north of town, but access was problematic and I didn't fancy leaving the car, so a shimmering pink mass of Lesser Flamingoes aside, I departed without seeing anything at all.

And then it was southbound all day, just under 500 km to Beaufort West in the Karoo. Only species of note on route was a Little Grey Mongoose. A night drive on backroads adjacent to the Karoo National Park was also fairly unproductive, adding only a bunch of Steenboks and numerous Cape Hares.
 
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23-25 June. De Hoop Nature Reserve.

De Hoop is one of my favourite localities in Cape Province. What is there not to like? A vlei absolutely jam-packed with thousands of waterbirds, a quaint coastline with Southern Right Whales just off the beach, bunches of Bonteboks and Mountain Zebras grazing the patches of short turf, a rich assortment of birds with everything from Cape Sugarbird to Knysna Woodpecker and, just to top it off, very nice accommodation with oodles of birds and mammals from the front step. Add to this the surrounding Overburg farmlands and their Blue Cranes, Ludwig's Bustards and assorted passerines, and it really is a superb area. I had intended to stay just a single night, ended up two nights.

23 June.

Moderately early arrival via the Overburg farmlands, a Ludwig's Bustard and 45 Blue Cranes just before the entrance, plus plenty of Capped Wheatears, flocks of African Pied Starlings and various larks et al. Picked up the permit at the entrance and entered the reserve, Malachite Sunbirds and Southern Double-collared Sunbirds in the fynbos, Karoo Prinias commonplace.

A mere half dozen kilometres further and we turned towards the accommodation area, open grasslands here dotted with a couple of dozen Ostrich, numerous Bonteboks, a herd of 15 Mountain Zebras and several Grey Rhebok. Opted against camping, partly due to Baboons trashing my tent last time I was here, so instead took one of the rather resplendent Dutch chalets, very nice indeed – all the mod cons, even electric blankets, plus birding on a platter. Within a few metres of the door, a briefest of wanders brought Cape Francolins, Cape Bulbuls, Cape Robin-Chats, Bar-throated Apalis, Fiscal Flycatchers and Southern Boubous, most hyper tame and, in the case of the francolins, even clambering over you if you sat upon the grass and blocked their route!

And then there was the vlei – stretching perhaps five kilometres or more and bordered by low cliffs, the sheer number of waterbirds is always astounding, literally thousands of Spur-winged Geese, Egyptian Geese, Yellow-billed Ducks and Red-knobbed Coots, richly laced with abundant Cape Cormorants, African Anhingas, Great-crested Grebes, Little Grebes and lesser numbers of Black-necked Grebes, Cape Teal and Cape Shoveler. On an exposed sandbank, a flock of about 60 White Pelicans, in tree overhangs 50+ Black-crowned Night Herons and scattered along the margins at least 45+ African Spoonbills, numerous Hadeda Ibis and Sacred Ibis. All in all, excellent birding, further enhanced by a pair of African Fish Eagle and two Giant Kingfishers.

Hopefully in the evening I would also see Cape Clawless Otter here. In the meantime though, I had high hopes for a bit of whale spotting, the first Southern Right Whales of the season having apparently arrived back off the De Hoop coast about three weeks previously. Southern Black Korhaan and flocks of Speckled Mousebirds in the fynbos en route down to the coast, then it was a short wander to the top of the dunes to scan the seas beyond – and there they were, a half dozen Southern Right Whales wallowing in the shallows, flopping fins and tail flukes in the sky, occasionally bottling a little, generally just lounging about. Swift Terns patrolled the surf, several Grey-headed Gulls sat on the beach, a number of Black Oystercatchers also. After a while sitting watching, strolled across to a small visitor centre/tea shop ... Cape Grassbirds and Karoo Prinias in a gully, Red-winged Starlings around the picnic tables and ever-present Cape Robin-Chats hopping about. Two Karoo Robin-Chats too.

Evening entertainment failed to materialize – waited out by the vlei until last light, no Cape Clawless Otters however, a disappointment. Many Black-crowned Night Herons already active though, plus three Water Thick-knees and quite some gathering of Brown-throated Martins and Rock Martins.
 
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Smaller birds ...
 

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