Recommendations for small alpha 10x32 (1 Viewer)

tenex · Apr 21, 2019

There are alternatives, but I'll go out on a limb and recommend the obvious choice. The UVHD+ 10x32 is my go-to binocular (when I'm not lugging a SLC 56, the other extreme I've been drawn to lately) and unless you need more ER for eyeglasses or are very sensitive to CA (as seems not to be the case) it's a perfect little package. Wide FOV, lovely classic view, no problems with glare. The Swaro EL is noticeably bigger, and the flat field reduces AFOV; the CL has less FOV, period. The Zeiss FL 10x's have edge distortions that bother me. (I may only have seen the 42, I'm not sure.)

As for jitter, my current opinion is that some occurs with any binocular, and the resulting experience has more to do with the brain (which can be trained) than the hands. After about 20 years of regularly using 10x, I was out at local ponds yesterday with the SLC 15x56 and very pleased with the view handheld. Of course it's harder to get on a moving target, but otherwise very usable, and a real joy for scanning the far shore.

Tringa45 · Apr 21, 2019

tenex said:
As for jitter, my current opinion is that some occurs with any binocular, and the resulting experience has more to do with the brain (which can be trained) than the hands.

So it's all in the mind and jitter is independent of magnification or physical exertion?

SeldomPerched · Apr 21, 2019

ceasar said:
I have never tried a Swarovski CL Companion 10x30 so I can't speak for that.. I have used my 8x30 version many times in dark, overcast conditions and I never wished I had my Nikon 8x32 LX L instead at those times.

When birding in twilight conditions I always used one of my 7x42 binoculars. I probably would never use an 8x32 or 8x30 at that time unless it was the only binocular I had with me.

Bob

Fair enough, Bob. I forgot you said you had the 8x versions. I know my local stockist keeps the full Swarovski range so I can try out and also some secondhand options.

... ... 7x42 -- my favourite!

Tom

Binastro · Apr 21, 2019

Specifically for reading signposts, I have here a Broadhurst Clarkson 18x24 Hawk 3 drawtube scope.
Also a Tourist 10x30, very good central resolution but small field etc.

The Opticron 160 image stabilised monocular or similar, would cope with running pulse.

The 7x15 Nikon Porro isn't bad either.

A small compact 30x optical zoom IS camera would make short work of sign posts.
The Sony, I find is too small, but the Canon SX710 is ideal and gives 90% success results.
The Canon SX730 has a good 40x optical zoom.
Probably 3 or 4 seconds to get a good image.
Similar to a binocular or monocular.

It depends on how specific the task is.

eronald · Apr 21, 2019

Ok as it's a free for all, I'll make a constructive suggestion - Zeiss or Leica 8x20 compacts, some old versions can always be had used for around $100. Tiny, sharp. Useless in the dark probably, but who cares ...

Her's a typical example at random.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZEISS-Fern...648935?hash=item1ccf56af27:g:UKEAAOSwgOpcth6L

BTW, the new Trino and Ultravid in that size are also jewel-like but of course you pay inflation-adjusted prices

Edmund

SeldomPerched · Apr 22, 2019

eronald said:
Ok as it's a free for all, I'll make a constructive suggestion - Zeiss or Leica 8x20 compacts, some old versions can always be had used for around $100. Tiny, sharp. Useless in the dark probably, but who cares ...

Her's a typical example at random.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZEISS-Fern...648935?hash=item1ccf56af27:g:UKEAAOSwgOpcth6L

BTW, the new Trino and Ultravid in that size are also jewel-like but of course you pay inflation-adjusted prices

Edmund

Thank you, Edmund, but I did say that 32 (Ok 30 at a stretch) was the lower limit and that I did not get on with the Leica compact once I had tried something bigger - even though they are fine examples of workmanship.

By the way I'm very glad to hear your 7x42 has now started to show what it's capable of. About this time last year I was surprised how much degradation was caused by a thin layer of dust on front elements of a different pair of binoculars.

All the best,

Tom

ceasar · Apr 22, 2019

Edmund,

I have a friend who has one of those Zeiss 8x20 Compacts shown above. It must be over 30 years old and it looks like it. He takes his Deer Hunting. AFAIK he has never got a deer.

It is a terrible binocular. The one shown above seems to be in good shape. He still has the papers for his so I suggested that he send it back to Zeiss for cleaning and if he got lucky maybe they would exchange it for a new Terra ED compact 8x25 binocular. He said he is going to keep his.

Bob

SeldomPerched · Apr 22, 2019

Binastro said:
Specifically for reading signposts, I have here a Broadhurst Clarkson 18x24 Hawk 3 drawtube scope.
Also a Tourist 10x30, very good central resolution but small field etc.

The Opticron 160 image stabilised monocular or similar, would cope with running pulse.

The 7x15 Nikon Porro isn't bad either.

A small compact 30x optical zoom IS camera would make short work of sign posts.
The Sony, I find is too small, but the Canon SX710 is ideal and gives 90% success results.
The Canon SX730 has a good 40x optical zoom.
Probably 3 or 4 seconds to get a good image.
Similar to a binocular or monocular.

It depends on how specific the task is.

Binastro, these are all unfamiliar to me and I'm going to have a look. If something you suggest fits the task and is lighter because it's not a BINocular that could be great.

Thank you,

Tom

Binastro · Apr 22, 2019

Hi Tom,
There are various image stabilised monoculars from Viking, Bresser, (and Sunagor, which I personally wouldn't have), as well as Opticron.
They may weigh about 340g? They don't have great reviews but probably would work well reading signposts after stopping a run.
The Canon 10x30 IS Mk2 binocular is probably too heavy. The Canon 8x25 IS too fragile.

I use a Canon A720 IS camera without a case. It takes 1.6 seconds to get a good photo from the time I see the object I want to photograph. If I have to zoom it takes about 2.5 seconds. Only 6x optical zoom, but the same detail as a hand held 10x binocular.

The Canon SX 710 took maybe 3 to 4 seconds to photograph at 30x optical zoom.
I think that this and the 40x Canon zoom cameras are probably equivalent to a mounted 20x binocular or scope.
If used regularly I would put a screen protector and no case.

The Russian 10x30 Turist scope may be too large?
Also Russian 8-20x32 Scope.
The Hawk 18x24 probably 5 seconds to extend and view. Probably a bit dim except in bright sunshine.

I use a Docter 10x25 binocular, which is very tough. No case. Probably less than 2 seconds to view.

It depends if one wears glasses or not.

tenex · Apr 23, 2019

tenex said:
As for jitter, my current opinion is that some occurs with any binocular, and the resulting experience has more to do with the brain (which can be trained) than the hands.

Tringa45 said:
So it's all in the mind and jitter is independent of magnification or physical exertion?

You may notice in the passage you just quoted that I said more to do, not all. Obviously there is some sort of practical limit to magnification at some point. But an amazing amount of what we call vision actually happens in the brain, and I do tire of pontification on what magnification can possibly be handheld, without taking learning into account or allowing time for it.

...Back to the topic at hand, if wider use than signpost-reading is eventually anticipated, a fuller-sized 32mm glass will be much more pleasant for use without eyeglasses than a compact.

Kevin Conville · Apr 23, 2019

I suggest checking out the Nikon MHG 10x30. It might surprise you.
Under 16 oz and a 363' FOV

If after that you think any performance difference adds up, get the Leicas at 2 1/2 times the price and 3 oz more

SeldomPerched · Apr 25, 2019

Binastro said:
Hi Tom,
There are various image stabilised monoculars from Viking, Bresser, (and Sunagor, which I personally wouldn't have), as well as Opticron.
They may weigh about 340g? They don't have great reviews but probably would work well reading signposts after stopping a run.
The Canon 10x30 IS Mk2 binocular is probably too heavy. The Canon 8x25 IS too fragile.

I use a Canon A720 IS camera without a case. It takes 1.6 seconds to get a good photo from the time I see the object I want to photograph. If I have to zoom it takes about 2.5 seconds. Only 6x optical zoom, but the same detail as a hand held 10x binocular.

The Canon SX 710 took maybe 3 to 4 seconds to photograph at 30x optical zoom.
I think that this and the 40x Canon zoom cameras are probably equivalent to a mounted 20x binocular or scope.
If used regularly I would put a screen protector and no case.

The Russian 10x30 Turist scope may be too large?
Also Russian 8-20x32 Scope.
The Hawk 18x24 probably 5 seconds to extend and view. Probably a bit dim except in bright sunshine.

I use a Docter 10x25 binocular, which is very tough. No case. Probably less than 2 seconds to view.

It depends if one wears glasses or not.

I don't wear glasses when running as the space under the glasses confuses me and tends to lead to stumbling or even tripping up. Is Docter a rebranding/take over of Zeiss Jena/DDR?

Thanks for all your help with this.

Tom

NDhunter · Apr 25, 2019

SeldomPerched said:
I don't wear glasses when running as the space under the glasses confuses me and tends to lead to stumbling or even tripping up. Is Docter a rebranding/take over of Zeiss Jena/DDR?

Thanks for all your help with this.

Tom

Docter was connected to Zeiss a while back, but you should know Docter is finished making binoculars, back in 2017.

They did sell some roof prism models, not sure about them.

Docter was a true optics manufacturer, not just a clone seller of optics.

The Nobilem porro models are very good, as well as their astronomy line.

Jerry

eronald · Apr 26, 2019

SeldomPerched said:
I don't wear glasses when running as the space under the glasses confuses me and tends to lead to stumbling or even tripping up. Is Docter a rebranding/take over of Zeiss Jena/DDR?

Thanks for all your help with this.

Tom

Tom,

I still think cheap and cheerful may have the design features you need. A transistor radio, not a pocket hi-fi

Edmund

Upland · Apr 26, 2019

Maven Bs in 10x32 are awesome and would be perfect for your intended use. Extremely well made with excellent optics and lightweight.

SeldomPerched · Apr 27, 2019

Thanks to all of you for your interest and varied suggestions. As it's so fiddly typing on a phone - all I have to hand at the moment - I can't respond to you individually but you have given me some great suggestions and the information is all useful knowledge whether or not I take up the suggestions.

Tom

Mark9473 · May 4, 2019

NDhunter said:
you should know Docter is finished making binoculars, back in 2017.

The current owners Noblex (since 2016) still have a small line-up of binoculars:
http://noblex-germany.com/index.php...ducts/long-range-optics/roof-prism-binoculars
http://noblex-germany.com/index.php...products/long-range-optics/compact-binoculars
They stopped using the Doctor Optik name about half a year ago.

Troubador · May 5, 2019

tenex said:
You may notice in the passage you just quoted that I said more to do, not all. Obviously there is some sort of practical limit to magnification at some point. But an amazing amount of what we call vision actually happens in the brain, and I do tire of pontification on what magnification can possibly be handheld, without taking learning into account or allowing time for it.

I find bino shake comes from 3 sources: arm fatigue after holding the binos up to my eyes for an extended period of time, physical exertion to reach the observation site and the strength of any wind that is blowing.

The light emerging from a bino eyepiece is like light shining from a flashlight. In fact if you shine a light through your binos with the eyepiece aimed at a wall and then shake your hand just a tiny bit you can see that the light on the wall jitters about and this is how the image arrives at your retina when you are experiencing bino shakes.

I can hold a 15x56 steady for about a minute before fatigue-shakes arrive but not at all if I have exerted myself or if there is wind blowing.

Lee

SeldomPerched · May 5, 2019

eronald said:
Tom,

I still think cheap and cheerful may have the design features you need. A transistor radio, not a pocket hi-fi

Edmund

I think you are probably right!

SeldomPerched · May 23, 2019

mwhogue said:
Tom
I own Leica UVHD+, Zeiss FL T*, Nikon EDGII, and SW SV FP all in 10x32. Given your stated preferences for smaller size and lighter, you can probably eliminate Nikon because of size and weight and Swaro because of size. Between Leica and Zeiss, Leica is noticeably more compact in actual use and carry. You won't get a sense of this size difference just reading the specs which appear on paper to be very close. Because the Leica is slightly heavier but overall more compact, it feels noticeably heavier in the hand to me than Zeiss but this is not a criticism. One other difference you may want to consider is ER which is 16mm in Zeiss and 13.2mm in Leica. This can make a big difference if you use or sometimes use glasses, the Zeiss will probably be better for you in that regard. However, teh Zeiss also has a much different focusing mechanism than the Leica. Not "better or worse" necessarily, but noticeably faster and stiffer, designed reportedly to "snap" into focus. Since your other bins are Leica the Zeiss focusing will probably take some practice for you to master. For me, all four are easier to hold steadier than 10x42 or 10x50. Because of the real difference in size and resulting perceived difference in weight if possible you should try/compare both to see whether you can hold one steadier than the other. For me, there is no noticeable difference in image shake between the two. One last thing, in certain difficult against the light conditions, the Leica controls glare better than the Zeiss in my experience. Hope this helps.

Mike

Hi Mike,
Just to say looking back over this topic and not having made a decision - it is not urgent and I will wait some time yet - that your thoughts will probably be what guides me most here. I'd love a 10x42 as well but I can't have everything though a forum like this makes it all too tempting to try!

Tom

Recommendations for small alpha 10x32 (1 Viewer)

reality-based

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

reality-based

yardbirder

Well-known member

Experienced observer

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Moderator

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads

Users who are viewing this thread