• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Calling all Nikon D7000 Users (1 Viewer)

woodsc

Active member
Calling all Nikon D7000 users for your expert advice
When taking picture of birds in flight which settings should I use to achieve the best results
Should I always use AF-C? and what area mode is recommended single point, multi point etc??
I'm struggling to get quality images -
Hope someone can help
Thank you
Colin
 
Hi Colin,
I have the D7100, not the D7000. And others with more experience can probably give you better advice, but here is a start.

1. Make sure to keep your shutter speed up. I'd try for at least 1/1000 second, but 1/1500 or 1/2000 is even better. Generally the smaller the bird, the faster the shutter speed you'll need to stop the motion.

2. Get lots of practice. Try going to a place with lots of gulls flying around.

3. Of course use AF-C. I use Dynamic-area mode with 9 points if I can keep the 9 points on the bird, 21 points if I'm struggling and need more help.

4. Try to keep exposure balanced. I generally use center-weighted metering, and sometimes for a dark bird against a light sky I will quickly adjust the exposure compensation up 1 stop while I track on the bird, but don't forget if you change exposure compensation! ...and check the results as often as you are able.

5. I'm not sure what lens you're using, but use some support if you can carry it. With my 300mm I like to put a monopod in a holster on my belt so it is available and sometimes I'll just walk holding the monopod with the camera on it and ready over my shoulder. The monopod only helps steady the camera; but the bird is still moving fast, so you still need to keep the shutter speed high.

And get lucky by getting out a lot to give yourself more chances.

--Dave
 
Last edited:
There's a similar thread on a US forum at the moment, not you is it ? ;)

Some of the advice given :

*AF-C,
*Dynamic 9-Points,
*Release Priority
*Lock-On Short
 
Hi Gents
Many thanks for your replies ~ I'll take your suggestions on board and have another go

Dave/Steve
Just out of interest what's your views on 'Release Priority' which Frogfish has suggested
Mine has been set on 'Focus Priority' hence the old shutter button will not release on some occasions. There seems to be some debate on other forums ~ some say it's better to get out of focus images on RP than to get nothing on FP when the shutter won't release
Look forward to your comments
Colin
 
Colin I also use release priority. I don't want any delays when I push the shutter release. Not sure if you body has it but I also only use the af-on button for focussing. I've programmed the shutter button only to take a picture (this is old school).

I've played extensively with the af tracking and found it makes no difference how it's set on single bird tracking. It does however make a difference if you're shooting flocks or small groups.
I suppose it's down to lens and body and photographer. If I can get away with it I try to use single point af but will happily go to 9 or 21 points if needed.
 
Hi Gents
Dave/Steve
Just out of interest what's your views on 'Release Priority' ...
Colin

Colin,
You can have success either way. If you're not sure, I would suggest that when using AF-C, use release priority which is the default I believe. For me the most challenging thing is getting locked on and steadily following the bird in the first place. You can do a lot of practicing getting locked on without ever firing the shutter. Instinctively I know need to wait to start firing until I see that I'm clearly locked on, but if I happen to press the shutter before I'm locked or during a moment of not being locked on, I want to start capturing frames and filling the buffer anyway since a moment later I might be locked on. But my D7100 has only about a 1 second buffer, so I need to make sure I'm locked on and if the bird is still getting closer, then choose carefully when I start firing, and for how long I keep firing. Pausing for even 1 second can allow more buffer space to clear and allow me to get additional/better frames.
 
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 10 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top