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Swarovski HD80 + 25 x 50W + Canon 5D II: which adapter? (1 Viewer)

imrulqays

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I would like to use a Swarovski HD80 with 25 x 50W eyepiece in combination with a Canon 5D II and I am looking for an easy to use adapter.
Any advice is most welcome, thank you.
 
I would like to use a Swarovski HD80 with 25 x 50W eyepiece in combination with a Canon 5D II and I am looking for an easy to use adapter.
Any advice is most welcome, thank you.

5D II. Is that full frame?

Someone here may well be able to offer a view on how much vignetting you will get with a full frame.

If you want to use the zoom on the eyepiece then you need to use either the DCA or the UCA.

The DCA fits directly onto your lens threads BUT you will need a suitable lens. I do not use a DCA.

If I connect my DSLR directly I use a 50mm f1.4 and fit it onto the scope EP with the UCA. The camera weight is carried by the UCA to the scope and not through the lens filter threads.

Another BUT. It will be a lot of load on the threads if you use the DCA.

The whole set up will be very tail heavy and you will need to use a rail on your tripod or a balance bar to get a stable platform.

If money is no problem you can take off the EP and the lens and connect the body through a T adaptor onto a TLS800 (which will give you 800mm)

You will however only be able to use your camera in Aperture priority. The scope and TLS800 is fixed at f10 although your camera may record it as F0.

If you look for Dale Roberts on his blog http://alpinebirds.blogspot.com/ and on Youtube you will see his demonstrations of how to use the various adaptors. He is digiscopingvideos and works for Swarovski.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4C59ziNcijk for TLS800

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRbVDSsrHyE for UCA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acsu332q9w4 for DCA
 
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Thank you very much for the information!
5D II is indeed full-frame. Is this a negative point for digiscoping?

I suspect it may from discussions here imrulqays, With a cropped sensor you lose some of the edge of your shot and that is where vignetting shows first.

If you can, set up your scope with a low magnification on your EP. Beg or borrow a 50mm prime and move the camera towards the eyepiece and see if you can get no vignetting at any distance. If you get no vignetting at any point you can then increase the zoom but I think you may be lucky to get away with it.

Of course if vignetting is only apparent in the part of the image that would have been cropped with a 7D or 50D for example then you could just cut down the image size in post processing. It depends on how much image you lose. Try before you buy is always the best way
 
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