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Independent birding in Nepal (1 Viewer)

I’m thinking about a trip to Nepal next year but would rather go independently than on an organised tour (mainly because the nature tour companies’ prices are beyond my means and the single supplement costs are horrendous). Obviously I’d like to see as many birds as possible (while acknowledging it’s impossible to see everything!).
For a solo traveller, where would be the best places to go, to see the most in around ten days? I’m not aiming to cover as much ground as possible, because I’ll end up seeing less, and I’d be on a fairly tight budget (around £50 a day should be enough).

Based on the above, what two or three locations (in lowlands and mountains), would any of you recommend?

Cheers, The GA.
 
I spent a wonderful week in Nepal about six years ago doing something similar to what you mention - my main intention was to bird the Terai and get as high as possible, as easily as possible. I visited Chitwan for two days (the best Terai habitat I've visited), absolutely wonderful, staying at Gaida Lodge, which is run by Tika Ram Giri, one of Nepal's most well-known birders.
Following that I did the Poon Hill trek - this is just 4-5 nights and gets you above 3000m. I recommend staying two nights at the summit, because the ridge is absolutely wonderful and full of birds. Bird early, so you get ahead of the crowd - I usually had half morning all to myself, and also late afternoon, and explored off trail the rest of the time.

Poon Hill is under $10 a day, but add in a porter, that's an extra $10 a day. You could go further with the trekking but that would be more for trekking than birding, as the habitat around Poon Hill is wonderful.

On top of that, 1-2 days at Pulchowki near Kathmandu and you'd have a wonderful time. Can't recommend it enough.

James
 
Just to add that if James reckons that itinerary provides excellent birding, then it very much will do. I can personally vouch for Chitwan and Pulchowki too :t:
 
Poon hill would be one of my absolute top spots in Nepal, if only for the views on Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and one of the most beautiful peaks in the world: Machapuchare.

just check google images as no words can describe the views.
 
It's been said already but Chitwan and Poon Hill trek are fantastic for birding. They are also among the easiest logistically. You'll get a good list from these two locations. In Chitwan a guide is mandatory (for your own protection: tigers, sloth bears and rhinos roam the area) but the Poon Hill trek is easily done by yourself if you want.

I have also trekked (and birded) Langtang and done a 5 week trek in the Khumbu area (Everest region) walking in and out via Jiri in the "middle hills". The last one was the best of all, but these require more effort. They are also easy to do by yourself without guide or porter.

Nepal is ultra cheap. My 5,5 weeks Khumbu adventure costed me a grand total of €498 in 2014 (excluding international flight but including everything else).
 
As someone who is keen to see all tragopans in the world, Langtang is on my radar as well.

How was the birding on the trekking in the Khumbu area?
 
As someone who is keen to see all tragopans in the world, Langtang is on my radar as well.

How was the birding on the trekking in the Khumbu area?

Khumbu was fantastic. With regards to birding, especially the "middle hills" (~1500-3500m) have plenty of birds. Also saw Satyr Tragopan there. At higher elevations (my highest elevation was 5559m) you see less species of course, but things like Blood Pheasant, Nepal Monal and Tibetian Snowcock are common. And of course the scenery is mindblowing!

I have a report on my website, though it is mainly a hiking report and not many bird pictures (only carried a pocket camera). It does have a bird list though.

https://www.hikingbirdman.com/
 
You cannot now, for several years, trek without a registerd guide. I think this is since earthquake and a couple of bad weather events which killed trekkers.
 
I spent a wonderful week in Nepal about six years ago doing something similar to what you mention - my main intention was to bird the Terai and get as high as possible, as easily as possible. I visited Chitwan for two days (the best Terai habitat I've visited), absolutely wonderful, staying at Gaida Lodge, which is run by Tika Ram Giri, one of Nepal's most well-known birders.
Following that I did the Poon Hill trek - this is just 4-5 nights and gets you above 3000m. I recommend staying two nights at the summit, because the ridge is absolutely wonderful and full of birds. Bird early, so you get ahead of the crowd - I usually had half morning all to myself, and also late afternoon, and explored off trail the rest of the time.

Poon Hill is under $10 a day, but add in a porter, that's an extra $10 a day. You could go further with the trekking but that would be more for trekking than birding, as the habitat around Poon Hill is wonderful.

On top of that, 1-2 days at Pulchowki near Kathmandu and you'd have a wonderful time. Can't recommend it enough.

James


Agree, Nepal isn't suitable for longer treks over shorter time. We did six weeks with porters, it would be extremely difficult to do much birding at all without one.

We did the Jomsom trail and the ABC, Annapurna Base Camp trek, averaging 10-12km per day, it was very arduous at times with very steep ups then very steep downs, very little level ground.

We crossed the Thorong Las pass at 5400m, seeing Tibetan Snowcock and on the steep descent to Muktinath at the other side, which is at least as hard as the climb up (lost all my toenails and couldn't walk for two days after this), we stopped in at the monastery to see Solitary Snipe.

Nepal needs time and don't underestimate the physicality!
 
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You cannot now, for several years, trek without a registerd guide. I think this is since earthquake and a couple of bad weather events which killed trekkers.

Do you have a source for that? As far as I know, while there are restricted areas, the standard Annapurna, Khumbu (Everest region) and Langtang routes can still be trekked independently without a guide.

I know that there was a plan a few years ago to make guides mandatory, but this was not implemented after protests from local people who feared the associated loss of income. Apart from the loss of visitors, this is also because of the practice that guides funnel hikers into larger establishments that are able to pay a commission to them for this "service" while the smaller establishments go out of business when independent hikers stay away.

The great attraction of Nepal is not just the natural beauty but also the fact that independent trekking is possible and easy, unlike neighbouring Tibet and Bhutan.
 
Khumbu was fantastic. With regards to birding, especially the "middle hills" (~1500-3500m) have plenty of birds. Also saw Satyr Tragopan there. At higher elevations (my highest elevation was 5559m) you see less species of course, but things like Blood Pheasant, Nepal Monal and Tibetian Snowcock are common. And of course the scenery is mindblowing!

I have a report on my website, though it is mainly a hiking report and not many bird pictures (only carried a pocket camera). It does have a bird list though.

https://www.hikingbirdman.com/

your website is brilliant stuff for inspiration! Thanks!
 
Do you have a source for that? As far as I know, while there are restricted areas, the standard Annapurna, Khumbu (Everest region) and Langtang routes can still be trekked independently without a guide.

I know that there was a plan a few years ago to make guides mandatory, but this was not implemented after protests from local people who feared the associated loss of income. Apart from the loss of visitors, this is also because of the practice that guides funnel hikers into larger establishments that are able to pay a commission to them for this "service" while the smaller establishments go out of business when independent hikers stay away.

The great attraction of Nepal is not just the natural beauty but also the fact that independent trekking is possible and easy, unlike neighbouring Tibet and Bhutan.

Apologies then if my impression is incorrect.

Even without a guide, I would recommend a porter, it will make birding and the general experience, far more enjoyable. Also, respect your porter, it's good manners and practice, not to overburden your porter, it's a tough enough job!

Try to limit their load to 10-12 kgs per porter, don't forget that they have their own stuff too.

My mate has been to Nepal c25x, I can recommend a highy reliable, honest and hard working porter who will pre arrange and collect, any and all trekking permits and bus tickets.

In regard tio trekking in Nepal being 'easy', I assume you mean the logistics, if so, this is true but dependant on which route you choose, it can be extremely tough going.
 
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Just to add that if James reckons that itinerary provides excellent birding, then it very much will do. I can personally vouch for Chitwan and Pulchowki too :t:

Agree Larry, birding these sites is great but they are easy, the treks are adifferent matter and should not be approached lightly.
 
I’m thinking about a trip to Nepal next year but would rather go independently than on an organised tour (mainly because the nature tour companies’ prices are beyond my means and the single supplement costs are horrendous). Obviously I’d like to see as many birds as possible (while acknowledging it’s impossible to see everything!).
For a solo traveller, where would be the best places to go, to see the most in around ten days? I’m not aiming to cover as much ground as possible, because I’ll end up seeing less, and I’d be on a fairly tight budget (around £50 a day should be enough).

Based on the above, what two or three locations (in lowlands and mountains), would any of you recommend?

Cheers, The GA.

If you'd like my report, although it's now ten years old, nothing has changed that much ( apart from the awful road throgh Ghasa) and it will at least give you a flavour of what to expect.

PM me with your e-mail if you'd like it.
 
I would also add that you should probably try and get out of Khatmandu as quickly as possible, the pollution is horrendous, I was left with a cough for three days which returned at the end of the trip when we were there again.
 
Apologies then if my impression is incorrect.

Even without a guide, I would recommend a porter, it will make birding and the general experience, far more enjoyable. Also, respect your porter, it's good manners and practice, not to overburden your porter, it's a tough enough job!

Try to limit their load to 10-12 kgs per porter, don't forget that they have their own stuff too.

My mate has been to Nepal c25x, I can recommend a highy reliable, honest and hard working porter who will pre arrange and collect, any and all trekking permits and bus tickets.

In regard tio trekking in Nepal being 'easy', I assume you mean the logistics, if so, this is true but dependant on which route you choose, it can be extremely tough going.

Trekking itself on the popular trekking routes in Nepal is, although by no means a walk in the park, generally speaking not all that tough compared to mountain trekking routes elsewhere (provided that you acclimatise to the elevation properly)

The reason is of course that these are "teahouse treks", so you don't have to carry much. In other places in the world I often trek with full camping gear and there is often more than a week between resupplies, so you carry lots of food and in dry areas sometimes lots of water too, which makes for a very heavy backpack. You don't need to carry all that when teahouse trekking in Nepal, because you sleep in lodges, tasty meals are available and on route you can often even stop for lunch at one of the teahouses! That makes world class mountain scenery accessible even to casual hikers who are reasonably fit. That's what I meant by "easy".

Also, the trails are generally good, because these are highly trafficked areas, even populated (you pass through many settlements in the middle hills).

When you reach higher elevation, in order to acclimatise you are supposed to not gain more than a few hundred metres in elevation per day. That means that usually you do only a few hours of actual walking and the rest of the time can be spend resting and birding.

Whether to use a porter or not is a personal choice. I always carry my own stuff, but for many people it can be a good idea. It is not very expensive either (in the $20-$25 per day range). However, I always hike solo because then I see and experience more and I don't annoy anybody when I stop for birds or a beautiful flower.
 
Trekking itself on the popular trekking routes in Nepal is, although by no means a walk in the park, generally speaking not all that tough compared to mountain trekking routes elsewhere (provided that you acclimatise to the elevation properly)

The reason is of course that these are "teahouse treks", so you don't have to carry much. In other places in the world I often trek with full camping gear and there is often more than a week between resupplies, so you carry lots of food and in dry areas sometimes lots of water too, which makes for a very heavy backpack. You don't need to carry all that when teahouse trekking in Nepal, because you sleep in lodges, tasty meals are available and on route you can often even stop for lunch at one of the teahouses! That makes world class mountain scenery accessible even to casual hikers who are reasonably fit. That's what I meant by "easy".

Also, the trails are generally good, because these are highly trafficked areas, even populated (you pass through many settlements in the middle hills).

When you reach higher elevation, in order to acclimatise you are supposed to not gain more than a few hundred metres in elevation per day. That means that usually you do only a few hours of actual walking and the rest of the time can be spend resting and birding.

Whether to use a porter or not is a personal choice. I always carry my own stuff, but for many people it can be a good idea. It is not very expensive either (in the $20-$25 per day range). However, I always hike solo because then I see and experience more and I don't annoy anybody when I stop for birds or a beautiful flower.


It's not a pissing contest, most people who use this site are primarily birders, not hardcore 'outdoorsmen', they don't want an SAS style selection course. They also want to be comfortable enough to actually do some birding so carrying packs and camping gear, won't be an option. For many, this will be a unique experience, nothing like anything they've done before.

I myself was 50 when I did it, some perspective is required, we saw plenty of 'fit, young' people who had totally misread the demands of the trek and actually turned back, or were wretching at the side of the trail and looking like death, probably due to reading posts like yours that refer to 'tea house trekking'.

I remember in particular, two young Canadian hockey players who paid to 'chopper out' of Johnsom, 5 days in to an intended three week trek and they'd only done the easy bit. They'd arrived in Nike training shoes and other casual stuff, totally uninformed that it would be so testing.

The picture you paint, does not reflect, what can be an unforgiving environment which occasionally, kills people, we saw a lot, of very sick, very unfit people.
 
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