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7D MK2 download on Elements 10 (1 Viewer)

Vernon Barker

Well-known member
I have a friend who uses Elements 10, he has just bought a 7D 2 and cannot download his photos as he did with his 7D1. System says file type not recognised. Ant ideas?
 
I have a friend who uses Elements 10, he has just bought a 7D 2 and cannot download his photos as he did with his 7D1. System says file type not recognised. Ant ideas?



has your friend put the new 7d2 software on his pc as dpp and eos utilities is different as i use elements and it works fine





dave
 
It will need the latest version of Elements (13) otherwise the Adobe DNG converter (free download from adobe) will be required to convert the CR2 files from the 7D11 which should then open in Elements 10
 
It will need the latest version of Elements (13) otherwise the Adobe DNG converter (free download from adobe) will be required to convert the CR2 files from the 7D11 which should then open in Elements 10
I have Elements 11 and this is what I use. It works fine.

Right click on the CR2 file, select 'Open with' and 'Adobe DNG Converter'. The converter window opens, press 'convert' and 5 seconds later it's job done.

Double-click on the new file and it opens in the Elements Raw Converter no bother.
 
The solution I use avoids the DNG conversion.

Download Canon DPP4, free from the Canon website. This is a completely revised program not a version of DPP3 and did not ship with my 7D MkII. Arthur Morris uses this for all his RAW processing.

Open your files in DPP4 and sort, rename, grade them, adjust exposure, crop, etc. Use Cntrl-B to convert the files to TIFF files (I use 8bit) and have them open automatically in Elements (I'm using Elements 10). Finish off the sharpening etc in Elements. Save as JPG.

This method loses no quality at the conversion to TIF and then uses all all your previous preferences for the post processing.

Canon publish a guide to how to use DPP4 (free) and Artie Morris has another guide ($40) that I have found useful.

Dave
 
Another vote for Canon's free DPP. I have tried several different RAW converters over the year but have been using Canon's DPP for years now as it converts the RAW file better than ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) IMHO. DPP 3 was good but DPP 4 is a lot better - Just send direct to Elements (or the full photoshop in my case) as a 16 bit tiff and finish the processing there before converting to a JPEG if required.
 
Another vote for Canon's free DPP. I have tried several different RAW converters over the year but have been using Canon's DPP for years now as it converts the RAW file better than ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) IMHO. DPP 3 was good but DPP 4 is a lot better - Just send direct to Elements (or the full photoshop in my case) as a 16 bit tiff and finish the processing there before converting to a JPEG if required.

Hi Roy,

I export as an 8 bit TIF because Elements will not complete all actions with a 16 bit TIF. I avoid another conversion (from 16 to 8 bit) as part of the work flow. Where do you think I would notice an improvement in using 16 bit.

Dave
 
Hi Roy,

I export as an 8 bit TIF because Elements will not complete all actions with a 16 bit TIF. I avoid another conversion (from 16 to 8 bit) as part of the work flow. Where do you think I would notice an improvement in using 16 bit.

Dave
Being a CS5 user Dave I had forgotten that Elements is not that supportive of 16 bits files so you are probably best sticking with 8 bits especially if you use editing tools/adjustments that do not support 16 bits.
In general there is much more tonal information in a 16-bit file so its better to edit with this format in my experience (even though much is lost if you finally convert to a jpeg). I often require a lot of non destructive editing, layers, etc. and most of the adjustments I make are available for 16 bit tiffs. Also I often save the files for further editing so the non lossy 16 bit tiff works best for me.
Of course Tiff files can become very big so you need plenty of processing power and storage space if you use them.
 
Being a CS5 user Dave I had forgotten that Elements is not that supportive of 16 bits files so you are probably best sticking with 8 bits especially if you use editing tools/adjustments that do not support 16 bits.
In general there is much more tonal information in a 16-bit file so its better to edit with this format in my experience (even though much is lost if you finally convert to a jpeg). I often require a lot of non destructive editing, layers, etc. and most of the adjustments I make are available for 16 bit tiffs. Also I often save the files for further editing so the non lossy 16 bit tiff works best for me.
Of course Tiff files can become very big so you need plenty of processing power and storage space if you use them.

Thanks Roy.

8 bits it remains
 
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