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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Micro Four-Thirds (2 Viewers)

If you have taped the TC then it will be "invisible" and the lens will be reported as a 400mm. If the TC is used without tape, and the F-number is reported as F/8 then the metabones adapter is apparently able to detect the TC in between the lens and adapter and report it as F/8. You would then expect the lens to be reported as a 560mm, if that is not the case then it's a bug.

The effectiveness of the IBIS would be affected negatively. How much is hard to say, depends on the effect the angular shake (yaw and pitch) compared to the non-angular (vertical and horizontal shift and rotation). Anyone has spare time and cares to make a test?

The pins were not taped in my last test.
 
Ah, the interesting thing here is that in #5 you see the focal length as 560mm. I don't. I only see 400mm. With the TC it shows f/8 when I turn the camera on. Without the TC it also shows f/8, until I hit the lens release button, then I can DIAL it back to 5.7, doesn't go automatically. Seems to behave the same way in all modes. Waking up from sleep still shows f/8.
Yup, still a bit buggy, but I am hopeful and I am enjoying the setup. So many shots I would never have managed with MF or with the scope.
Here is another one from yesterday through the branches. Was hard to even see the bugger.

PC130114.jpg

And I LOVE the silent shutter. I got about 20 shots of this guy and he didn't bat an eye. Normally they are gone with the first click. Shutter shock? What is shutter shock?B :)
 
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Ah, the interesting thing here is that in #5 you see the focal length as 560mm. I don't. I only see 400mm. With the TC it shows f/8 when I turn the camera on. Without the TC it also shows f/8, until I hit the lens release button, then I can DIAL it back to 5.7, doesn't go automatically. Seems to behave the same way in all modes. Waking up from sleep still shows f/8.
Yup, still a bit buggy, but I am hopeful and I am enjoying the setup. So many shots I would never have managed with MF or with the scope.
Here is another one from yesterday through the branches. Was hard to even see the bugger.

View attachment 567488

And I LOVE the silent shutter. I got about 20 shots of this guy and he didn't bat an eye. Normally they are gone with the first click. Shutter shock? What is shutter shock?B :)


Without the TC, V.2.0 hasn't changed anything for me. It shows f/5.7 when turned on and stays there even when pushing the lens release button. I can dial the required f/ without problems.

I haven't tried the silent shutter yet. It will be nice in low light.

Nice photo, you are better than me at close range. I have difficulty finding the birds. You and Tord use your scopes at close range so you are used to this. I never use the scope closer than about 30 meters.
 
For me it is the same way…with the E-M1…
The Canon 400mm + MB without TC 1.4 exif reads f/5.7 & 400mm
The Canon 400mm + MB with TC 1.4 exif still reads f/5.7 and 400mm
The Canon 400mm + MB with TC 1.4, when camera is on, if I press lens release button once, exif then reads f/8 & 560mm like it should, turning off camera and on again it returns to previous state, exif reads f/5.7 and 400mm.

Made some initial focus test shots, with the Canon 400mm + MB, It seems I have to adjust focus -1 step, If I add the TC 1.4 also I have to adjust focus -2 steps. It would have been nice to be able to adjust in 0.5 steps. Distance indoors, camera to target, is 10 m, maybe to short distance for these kind of test?
 
For me it is the same way…with the E-M1…
The Canon 400mm + MB without TC 1.4 exif reads f/5.7 & 400mm
The Canon 400mm + MB with TC 1.4 exif still reads f/5.7 and 400mm
The Canon 400mm + MB with TC 1.4, when camera is on, if I press lens release button once, exif then reads f/8 & 560mm like it should, turning off camera and on again it returns to previous state, exif reads f/5.7 and 400mm.

Made some initial focus test shots, with the Canon 400mm + MB, It seems I have to adjust focus -1 step, If I add the TC 1.4 also I have to adjust focus -2 steps. It would have been nice to be able to adjust in 0.5 steps. Distance indoors, camera to target, is 10 m, maybe to short distance for these kind of test?

Please explain the paragraph about focus. How can you adjust focus in steps ????
 
Jules,
There is a micro focus adjustment feature in the E-M1 software. See page 110 in the v4 English manual.


Steps of +/- 1 are nothing! If that is what the lens wants, let him have it.;)
Microfocus adjustment has to be done very carefully. Usually none is needed with the E-M1 because the phase detect is on the sensor. It is a carryover from the DSLR. There are times however when the communication between the lens and the camera might be a tiny bit off, and a tad of adjustment is needed. No big deal. Fortunately mine is spot on.
 
Jules,
There is a micro focus adjustment feature in the E-M1 software. See page 110 in the v4 English manual.


Steps of +/- 1 are nothing! If that is what the lens wants, let him have it.;)
Microfocus adjustment has to be done very carefully. Usually none is needed with the E-M1 because the phase detect is on the sensor. It is a carryover from the DSLR. There are times however when the communication between the lens and the camera might be a tiny bit off, and a tad of adjustment is needed. No big deal. Fortunately mine is spot on.

Thanks Dan - I had forgotten about that. Getting old !

How do you measure focus accuracy ? I have tried the 45 degree ruler and it didn't work well for me. The battery method worked better and the lens seemed to be accurate at short range.
 
I use a home made variant of the 45° ruler, but the trick is not to focus on the ruler but on a focus target that is 45° to the ruler = 90° to horizontal. Lens wide open and shoot. You can then see whether the mm markings get fuzzy evenly as you look in both directions of your center line.
Mine is sort of like this:
http://petapixel.com/2013/03/12/ghe...tion-tool-for-micro-adjustment-enabled-dslrs/
Just shoot and you can see right away on the back screen what is going on. Adjust if need be and try again.
 
For a first test target, I made a pretty simple variant, made of a circulation envelope which i cut open on both long sides and then folded it out, and taped it on a board. Then i put a dark tape in the middle. I positioned it as seen in the attached picture, but on a chair, illuminated, and angled like 45 degrees, similar as the battery variant. Since AF mostly wants a vertical line to focus well, the dark tape should do it. I look at the image for the thin lines and the holes on each side of the dark tape to check where focus is at.

I chose the setting where AF is done only with the center AF point. Camera on a tripod, time delayed triggering.
I had to support the board so it was oriented vertically and not leaning to the sides.

Attached is a crappy iphone photo of the board.
 

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Right idea but it would be better to do it with something with finer lines or textures. You can also simply do it on a plain carpet with a small target set up in the middle and aim down at an angle. Doesn't have to be 45°, in fact, a flatter angle will show front and back focusing more.
 
I use a home made variant of the 45° ruler, but the trick is not to focus on the ruler but on a focus target that is 45° to the ruler = 90° to horizontal. Lens wide open and shoot. You can then see whether the mm markings get fuzzy evenly as you look in both directions of your center line.
Mine is sort of like this:
http://petapixel.com/2013/03/12/ghe...tion-tool-for-micro-adjustment-enabled-dslrs/
Just shoot and you can see right away on the back screen what is going on. Adjust if need be and try again.

Neat ! What distance ?
 
I have tried at 6 meters and at about 15 meters. Spot on. When I read about all the missery some people are having with either front-or-back-or-both-focusing with the 7DII on POTN, now 335 pages and 5000+ posts long, I think, front focus... back focus...what't that?
 
For a first test target, I made a pretty simple variant, made of a circulation envelope which i cut open on both long sides and then folded it out, and taped it on a board. Then i put a dark tape in the middle. I positioned it as seen in the attached picture, but on a chair, illuminated, and angled like 45 degrees, similar as the battery variant. Since AF mostly wants a vertical line to focus well, the dark tape should do it. I look at the image for the thin lines and the holes on each side of the dark tape to check where focus is at.

I chose the setting where AF is done only with the center AF point. Camera on a tripod, time delayed triggering.
I had to support the board so it was oriented vertically and not leaning to the sides.

Attached is a crappy iphone photo of the board.
I think you should use a test target having a thinner central line, say 2-3 mm, so that the AF consistently goes for the centre of the line and not for one of the borders which will offset the result +/- half the tape width.

What you also need to make sure is that the board is a flat surface, and aligned with the optical axis.

Having a pattern of equidistant lines spaced dense enough, rather than holes would make it easier to see where the focus is. The depth of field is shallow...
 
Just to let you know I am now the proud owner of a 400/5.6 USM and a metabones adapter :t:

Quick field test confirms it works fine. It will come in handy when I visit Sri Lanka early next year. Better than the 50-200SWD + EC20.

I will also bring the scope to cover situations calling for long reach. Either the TL APO804 +EC14, or the good old SW80.
 
Just to let you know I am now the proud owner of a 400/5.6 USM and a metabones adapter :t:

Quick field test confirms it works fine. It will come in handy when I visit Sri Lanka early next year. Better than the 50-200SWD + EC20.

I will also bring the scope to cover situations calling for long reach. Either the TL APO804 +EC14, or the good old SW80.

Great news, both for the lens and the trip (I'm jealous :t:).
 
Tord,
I can try with not so wide tape...maybe cut it in half. When the board is placed at an angle the tape will "look" thinner also.

I will put the flat board on the floor and rotate the camera 90 degrees and take photos like that, an advice I got earlier in this thread.
It is easier to illuminate the board that way also, with the illumination from the ceiling.

Thanks,
Anders
 
Great news, both for the lens and the trip (I'm jealous :t:).
Thanks Jules.
I will among other places of high interest hopefully be able to enjoy Wilpattu NP. The park re-opened to public quite recently (2009) and from what I have read it is a real gem with not too many visitors since it is a bit off the main itineraries and takes a while to get there. The extreme rains in December that devasted Southeast India and also hit Sri Lanka may effect the expereience though due to all water and mud. Fingers crossed...

I am still hesitant regarding which scope to bring in addition to the 400/5.6. The TLAPO804 for the IQ and pleasant form factor (fits in the hand luggage), or the SW80 for the extra reach? Or a compromise, the TLAPO804 +EC14, accepting F/8.5
 
E-M1+MB+Ext 1.4+Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM

I bought a used Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM some days ago and yesterday I was out testing it with the E-M1+MB(firmware version 2.0)+Ext 1.4 III and it seems to work ok. I took many nice photos. Since zooming is done internally it is not an "airpump/dustcollector". A nice alternative for those occasions when birds are closer.

With ext 1.4 III Exif data reads 5.7 from start s t s.

Has anyone else tried this combo?

Anders
 
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I bought a used Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM some days ago and yesterday I was out testing it with the E-M1+MB(firmware version 2.0)+Ext 1.4 and it seems to work ok. I took many nice photos. Since zooming is done internally it is not an "airpump/dustcollector". A nice alternative for those occasions when birds are closer.

With ext 1.4 Exif data reads 5.7 from start s t s.

Has anyone else tried this combo?

Anders

One of my friends has one on a Canon 7D. It is a very nice versatile lens. It works well with the Canon 2X Extender III. I have seen reports that it is compatible with the MB/EM-1.
 
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