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Pete, your 3rd pic, the CA on the white band around the neck, is it the product of the TN or the SW120? It seems that some of your pics, the color does not seems natural. Are they because of the Non ED optics effects or they are just my eyes playing up on me. However, they are all very sharp and great details.

I've also got the Prinzflex 100-200mm TN and it gives virtually no CA on the 80ED glass. Most of the CA or slight blue cast to the images will be from the non ed glass. It can be corrected with CA filters but they cost you a lot in shutter speed.

Paul.
 
Pete, your 3rd pic, the CA on the white band around the neck, is it the product of the TN or the SW120? It seems that some of your pics, the color does not seems natural. Are they because of the Non ED optics effects or they are just my eyes playing up on me. However, they are all very sharp and great details.


Al, you are right. The 120 SW is not corrected for CA, which i suppose is why its half the cost of the 80ED scope. I get CA depending on the colours and contrast of the photo, and i correct it when needed, i just forgot this one. ;)

How does this look now ?
 

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A couple from today - chipping sparrow and tufted titmouse.

Orion 80ED, 600mm FL, f/7.5

Nikon D90

Both at ISO 500, 1/400. Both shots cropped from 4288x2948 to 2000x1332 and resized to 1000x666. Minor curves and sharpening applied.
 

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Al, you are right. The 120 SW is not corrected for CA, which i suppose is why its half the cost of the 80ED scope. I get CA depending on the colours and contrast of the photo, and i correct it when needed, i just forgot this one. ;)

How does this look now ?

Sometime I just cannot belief the price difference between ED and Non ED. That much difference just for the extra coating, though it does do wonders.

That was a nice job removing the fringes. What software did you use? I have yet to get half as clean a job with CS4.
 
Sometime I just cannot belief the price difference between ED and Non ED. That much difference just for the extra coating, though it does do wonders.

Alphan, the difference between these scopes is not the coating, the coatings are probably very similar.
Coatings are used to improve light transmission and reduce flare, CA is not improved by coatings. That said, our perception of it can be reduced with improved coatings or better flare control, but never to the degree of the 120 F/5 vs the ED80.

The difference comes from two things mainly, the glass type witch in ED80’s is FPL53 for the ED element and allows much better CA correction, and also very important is a slower scope, being a full stop slower makes the ED80 far easier to correct for CA. Also the design of the lens itself plays a big or the biggest roll in CA reduction.

If musoman places a 80mm mask on the front of that 120mm lens, the CA will reduce a lot too, nowhere near what the ED80 can do but much less than what it does wide open.
 
That was a nice job removing the fringes. What software did you use? I have yet to get half as clean a job with CS4.

You can download a free Action for Photoshop that is called Purple Fringe Killer. There is some info here plus a download link.

When you put the action into the correct folder then open up Photoshop. Click on the Window tab at the top of the screen and on the drop down list choose Actions. The actions palette should then be visible at the right of the screen. If the purple fringe killer isn't on the list of actions then click on the tiny button (top right of the actions palette) and choose load on the drop down list. Then a screen opens up and choose the action you want to load. Once the action is in the list just click on it and it will perform its operations to remove CA automatically.

Here's how Musoman's pheasant looks after running the action.

Paul.
 

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The Purple Fringe Killer also does a good job of removing the overall blue cast and the CA from Musoman's Reed Bunting image. You wouldn't think this was from a non-ed scope now. After doing the action you need to click on the Layer tab and choose Flatten Image.

After I flattened the layers I did a very slight manual levels adjustment and smart sharpen.

Paul.
 

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This is Musoman's Slav Grebe after running through Purple Fringe Killer.

The steps were Purple Fringe Killer - Flatten Image - slight levels tweak - slight increase of saturation - smart sharpen.

The images lose a little saturation when posting to the web but that's the nature of the internet. On the screen they look really nice. Just thought I'd highlight what's possible from a non ED scope with a handy action like the Purple Fringe Killer.

Paul.
 

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That was a nice job removing the fringes. What software did you use? I have yet to get half as clean a job with CS4.

That was CS4 using the Hue tab, which is layers, from the drop down box which is Master by default, pick the magenta option, then the left colour picker, then click on the coloured area in photo, and play with saturation and lightness.

Sometimes what you think is magenta is actually blue or blue 2, but the colour will auto change to what it should be. You dont really need anything else if you have CS4 - it does as good a job as anything else, as you can see by the 2nd pheasant i posted
 
If musoman places a 80mm mask on the front of that 120mm lens, the CA will reduce a lot too, nowhere near what the ED80 can do but much less than what it does wide open.

I have the mask fitted as you say fernando - if you look in the " One baffle only ' thread, you'll see that i use this but have cut open the mask ( the dew shield end cap ) to a larger size, which is probably around 80mm now. The original was far too restrictive
 
Some good work on those photos Paul. Side by side, the Reed Bunting has lost detail/is softer, but the Grebe looks better

Alphan can do all this in CS4, if he doesnt want a plugin
 
Some good work on those photos Paul. Side by side, the Reed Bunting has lost detail/is softer, but the Grebe looks better

Alphan can do all this in CS4, if he doesnt want a plugin

I reduced the size to 1024 which is probably why some detail has appeared to have gone, plus a jpeg will continually deteriorate every time it's edited. Either way, the purple fringe killer itself wont remove any sharpness from the image.

The problem with the way you are using the Hue tab is that it will affect similar colours in the whole photo. If the CA in the photo is the same colour or even slightly similar as something else in the photo or then all of those things will change colour. A good example is a blue fringe and a blue sky. When you alter the blue fringe the sky will also alter colour. When I had my old non ED scope I used the same method and used to see big colour shifts in certain photos. Using the action like the purple fringe killer wont allow this to happen so it's a lot better in this respect. I'll be using it from now on to remove CA in the out of focus areas which you get with the 80ED. On top of the A your photos from the 120 all have a blue cast which the fringe killer has removed very well.

Paul.
 
Aye, the re-opening and saving of jpgs does affect quality. I'll give PFK a try too.

I wonder why when using the hue tab / magenta / colour picker, then clicking on the purple fringe area, the colour then auto changes to blue or somtimes blue 2 in the drop down list ... maybe thats what you mean by magenta cast being somewhat close to some blues in a photo with CA ?
 
I think if Photoshop deems the magenta colour to contain more blue than red then it goes to blue 2. I quite often photograph birds in my neighbours silver birch and the young twigs contain a lot of purple. In the past I've had magenta CA to remove and it also changed the colour of the branches. There's no way to isolate just the CA using the hue/saturation method.

Paul.
 
I went to that PFK link, downloaded the prog, and its empty.

There's just an odd 3.21kb file called Purple Fringe Killer.atn

Despite that, i placed the odd .atn file in CS4 plugins but its not there
 
Ooops

Followed your instructions if it wasnt there and have got it loaded in now

Time for a test :smoke:
 
Having got it in the actions list, clicking the PFK doesnt seem to do anything - what is it i'm doing wrong
 

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On the actions palette press the tiny button just to the top right. On the drop down list choose Button Mode. Now it should work when you click on the action.

Paul.
 
You can download a free Action for Photoshop that is called Purple Fringe Killer. There is some info here plus a download link.

When you put the action into the correct folder then open up Photoshop. Click on the Window tab at the top of the screen and on the drop down list choose Actions. The actions palette should then be visible at the right of the screen. If the purple fringe killer isn't on the list of actions then click on the tiny button (top right of the actions palette) and choose load on the drop down list. Then a screen opens up and choose the action you want to load. Once the action is in the list just click on it and it will perform its operations to remove CA automatically.

Here's how Musoman's pheasant looks after running the action.

Paul.


Excellent one Paul. Took me a while to get everything right but the results are "WOW"... Just can"t belief my eyes....and it was so easy.

Does that means we can all start collecting non ED scope of different sizes, use whichever one suit the circumstance then just use the PFK to get it right or are there other catch to it. Non ED scopes are so cheap.....
 
That was CS4 using the Hue tab, which is layers, from the drop down box which is Master by default, pick the magenta option, then the left colour picker, then click on the coloured area in photo, and play with saturation and lightness.

Sometimes what you think is magenta is actually blue or blue 2, but the colour will auto change to what it should be. You dont really need anything else if you have CS4 - it does as good a job as anything else, as you can see by the 2nd pheasant i posted

Thanks for the detail instruction to it and I did notice the color change as mentioned by Paul. Initially I thought I had it wrong somewhere.
 
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