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teleconvertor for Fuji HS20 (1 Viewer)

upstarts1979

Well-known member
Thinking of buying fuji hs20 and compatible Teleconvertor.
Have read reviews that Raynox DCR-2025PRO (2.2x) is the one to go for. But also read other reviews totally slating it.
The sonyVCL-Dh1758 (1.7x) was also recommended, but this one is almost impossible to get.
Could anyone advise me either way or is there a better one that is compatible with the HS20.
B :)John
 
Thinking of buying fuji hs20 and compatible Teleconvertor.
Have read reviews that Raynox DCR-2025PRO (2.2x) is the one to go for. But also read other reviews totally slating it.
The sonyVCL-Dh1758 (1.7x) was also recommended, but this one is almost impossible to get.
Could anyone advise me either way or is there a better one that is compatible with the HS20.
B :)John
I would think that the Oly TCON 17 might be compatible although you might need to use adaptor rings, I have got an HS20 and so far have never felt the need for a leleconvertor.
 
Hi Upstarts1979,
I've got the HS20 and the Raynox DCR 2025PRO.

I haven't used it much at all. The problem I find is that the Raynox is very light and when attached to the HS20 the least breeze causes significant vibration. However, used with a tripod and a remote release that can be overcome some of the time. The other point worth noting - which you've possibly sussed yourself already - is that you have to zoom in quite a bit to avoid vignetting (I can't remember how far as its a while since I used it last). But given that you're looking for extra reach that's probably not a problem!

On the question of quality I can't be of much help - I was satisfied with the shots I got of distant Black-tailed Godwits as decent record shots.

There's no problem with attaching the Raynox as it comes supplied with a range of different sized rings to attach to different sized threads - although they are plastic.

cheers
Gordon
 
Hi Upstarts1979,
I've got the HS20 and the Raynox DCR 2025PRO.

I haven't used it much at all. The problem I find is that the Raynox is very light and when attached to the HS20 the least breeze causes significant vibration. However, used with a tripod and a remote release that can be overcome some of the time. The other point worth noting - which you've possibly sussed yourself already - is that you have to zoom in quite a bit to avoid vignetting (I can't remember how far as its a while since I used it last). But given that you're looking for extra reach that's probably not a problem!

On the question of quality I can't be of much help - I was satisfied with the shots I got of distant Black-tailed Godwits as decent record shots.

There's no problem with attaching the Raynox as it comes supplied with a range of different sized rings to attach to different sized threads - although they are plastic.

cheers
Gordon
B :)Gordon and Spec wood
I find it amazing, how one person can be so positive and others so negative about the same item. I think its peoples expectations, as its not a DSLR system I wont expect top notch. As a birder I just want a bit more than a record shot:t:John
 
Can't say i'm positive or negative, when I was using a Panasonic with an18x zoom I used an Olympus TC14 which I found to be useful. Once I got cameras with longer zooms I simply stopped using the teleconverter because the extra reach satisfies my needs.

On a quick note there is also a panasonic 1.7 converter which doubtless could be used (possibly with adaptor rings).
 
Can't say i'm positive or negative, when I was using a Panasonic with an18x zoom I used an Olympus TC14 which I found to be useful. Once I got cameras with longer zooms I simply stopped using the teleconverter because the extra reach satisfies my needs.

On a quick note there is also a panasonic 1.7 converter which doubtless could be used (possibly with adaptor rings).

Soz mate wasn't referring to your comments, far from it, it was those that I had read on some photographic web forums, they totally confuse me.
None birders mostly, who probably look more into it from a technical perspective, than we do as birders, who usually just want a reasonably sized in focus image of a bird.
I am pretty sure I want the HS20 but thought I might as well go for the full gambit and try and get a deal including a Teleconvertor.
I value comments on here more than on those sites as most are from birders.:t:
B :)John
 
I can see the point of using Tele-convertors from the id'ing point of view I, that was the main reason I used one on the camera with the 18x zoom and doubtless the the same thing would work on the HS20, and from the postings I see in some places some people do manage to also get fairly good quality images as well using teleconvertors.

One of the reasons I do also prefer cameras with high pixel counts is that the extra cropping that is possible can also make the difference between being able to id something or not, I certainly noticed this when I switched from the 10 mega pixels of the HS10 to the 16 mega pixels of the HS20.
 
Here's a link to the pics I got of the godwits using the Raynox 2.2. Using Google Earth shows that they were 105m distant.
This might help you get an idea of the quality that can be achieved - not that I'm claiming they are very good.

https://picasaweb.google.com/102524085631195253526/BlackTailedGodwitsInEglintonParkMay22011

Gordon
Hi Gordon
that has swayed me for the HS 20 and 2.2 Convertor. Was it on auto setting or did you use manual settings, as some of the pics were darker than others.
I'll probably be asking more questions of you and speckled wood in due course, be patient with me.
B :)John
 
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I can see the point of using Tele-convertors from the id'ing point of view I, that was the main reason I used one on the camera with the 18x zoom and doubtless the the same thing would work on the HS20, and from the postings I see in some places some people do manage to also get fairly good quality images as well using teleconvertors.

One of the reasons I do also prefer cameras with high pixel counts is that the extra cropping that is possible can also make the difference between being able to id something or not, I certainly noticed this when I switched from the 10 mega pixels of the HS10 to the 16 mega pixels of the HS20.

Do you crop in raw or jpeg or both.
B :)John
 
Hi Upstarts1979,
I've had a look at the EXIF data in the original files. The pics were taken using a mix of aperture priority and shutter priority.

As you've already noted there are some extreme opinions of the HS20. You mind find it useful to have a look at this web site (if you haven't already):
http://akiwiretrospective.blogspot.com/

The author goes into a lot of detail about how to get the best out of the HS20 from a general photography perspective. You might find it useful given the range of different modes that are available.

Speckled Wood refers to using the full 16Mp available on the HS20. There seems to be a concensus that best pic quality is achieved by setting the file size to medium (8Mp - EXR modes do this automatically). This "doubles-up" the pixels making them larger and, therefore less susceptible to noise (or so I understand). However, the web site linked to above acknowledges that in good lighting conditions 16Mp size is also good.

To be honest I haven't really spent much time getting to know this camera to enble me to get the most out of it.

Good luck with your efforts.

cheers
Gordon
 
Hi Upstarts1979,
I've had a look at the EXIF data in the original files. The pics were taken using a mix of aperture priority and shutter priority.

As you've already noted there are some extreme opinions of the HS20. You mind find it useful to have a look at this web site (if you haven't already):
http://akiwiretrospective.blogspot.com/

The author goes into a lot of detail about how to get the best out of the HS20 from a general photography perspective. You might find it useful given the range of different modes that are available.

Speckled Wood refers to using the full 16Mp available on the HS20. There seems to be a concensus that best pic quality is achieved by setting the file size to medium (8Mp - EXR modes do this automatically). This "doubles-up" the pixels making them larger and, therefore less susceptible to noise (or so I understand). However, the web site linked to above acknowledges that in good lighting conditions 16Mp size is also good.

To be honest I haven't really spent much time getting to know this camera to enble me to get the most out of it.

Good luck with your efforts.

cheers
Gordon
much appreciated for all this info Gordon
B :)B :)John
 
I use the "double up" setting in low light, but where nd in any there is plenty of light I use the full 16 MP as that does come in more useful when cropping an image to get an id rather than a high quality image although as I have implied in good light high quality images are perfectly possible at 16 MP. in winter and poor lighting conditions I do tend in any event to use my DSLR. Its just that where possible the HS20 is a lot easier to carry around than a DSLR and associated lenses.
 
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