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$100-$300 Binocular recommendation. (1 Viewer)

Well, Kumar...first, I don't see the store manager's point in asking you to look at the highest priced binos in the store first-when you were not anywhere near that price range in what you wanted to spend. It sounds irresponsible to me, or like he was just trying to make you bump up your sale to a new level. Of course they are going to look great, and nothing will quite compare after! Binoculars are not perfect, and as someone else said here-Lee, I think, that they are all compromises to some extent, and nothing is perfect. It's up to you to decide what works or doesn't for you-others really have a back seat in telling you that.

And as far as being done in under 20 minutes, that was not right unless you were being hurried, and then it was even worse if you were. They are there to serve you, not the other way around-you are the customer, who helps pay their salaries! I certainly wouldn't drive 3 hours round trip for only a glance at something as difficult to choose as these. I think this is where buying and trying really has the advantage. You never feel rushed, and you can do it outside, inside, and under so many different lighting conditions, that it is just how I prefer to buy, myself. All buying in the store offers you is weeding out some that will not suit you fairly quickly, but with your level of experience, unless you have them all set right from the beginning (IPD, diopter, and eye cups), sometimes you can dismiss perfectly fine bins by not getting one or all of them set exactly right for you.

Look up how to adjust binoculars on the web, and you will find out how to do it properly. The double circles are from not setting the IPD for your eyes (distance between your pupils)-as you should see only 1 circle if it's set right. I do that visually, not technically like some suggest. But even if you know how to set up binoculars properly, you can still mess up sometimes, and be thrown off a bit, depending on your eyesight and lighting conditions, etc. Even heat waves, and looking through windows can mess with your view, and your settings if you set them according to other conditions, and also your day to day eyesight at times too (especially if you are older like me) can alter what you see. Occasionally you will find a binocular that isn't right too-so knowing when it's the binocular and when it's you can help when that happens. You need some kind of reference, and the only way you can do that is to have one binocular on hand to get to know what you like and want and to compare others to, and go from there.

Keep a watch on the binocular bargain thread for best prices and great deals, if you're not in a hurry. Or pick a trusted and recommended bin that you are comfortable buying, and get it from a retailer who allows returns, and then get to know what you like and don't about them, before the return period ends, and go from there. Of course, if you know what you really want most- low light, wide angle, light weight, deal for the money, then use those guidelines to make your first choice. Don't think thath choice will be the end of it, because, likely if you are drawn to binoculars, like most here, they won't be your last, by far. Just like anything else, there is no one best for all uses and users, though you can stretch that a bit if you are careful in buying for your most important attributes. Certainly not easy in the beginning, but you do have to make a choice and learn from it as we all have done, and continue to learn as you go.

Or you could keep going to stores and trying as many as you find, and getting experience setting them up for you if you can find more, like Cabellas, Bass Pro, REI and others as you find them. Doug from CameralandNY.com (one of the sponsor dealers here) is very helpful and trustworthy with good prices, or just order from someone like bhphoto.como on the East coast in NY, another good retailer. It seems 8x32 or 8x42 would be a good starting point for best all- arounders. Of course, the 42's will be better in lower light usually, in comparably priced optics. Compare one or two at most, because the less the better-comparing bins can drive you crazy, if you let it. Better to enjoy one fully and if you think it's a fit from the beginning, then stick with it and learn from it. If not, return them, and start over again.

Like I said before, keep your eye on the binocular bargain page here too, if that is especially a priority to you. Don't feel you have to spend more to have a great bino-there are many out there now that with modern coatings and design are more affordable and deliver better results often from even more expensive bins of just 10-20 years or more ago. Of course, there are some classics that are still able to compete with modern offerings, but they often start at a higher price anyway (one exception being the Sightron Blue Sky II 8x32's), and there are more that aren't highest tech (not HD, ED, dielectric coated, etc). Buy what you are comfortable with spending, as there will always be better ones available if you can afford it, but just by degrees, and if you don't need or want to spend the moon, you really don't have to, to get a top quality view today in most all price ranges even without all the bells and whistles.

Have fun, and remember to enjoy using them-and not being obligated to having to find the best of the best-there are so many good choices today that it is hard to buy bad binos with the little bit of guidance you can find here and the web. But I would trust these guys here mostly, and not just average user reviews just from other retailing websites. We are mostly all bino enthusiasts here-and that makes a difference in opinion usually, from the more experienced users here especially than the general public's opinions elsewhere. I'm not including me as an authority for sure, and far from it. I'm still learning a lot myself along the way. Enjoy the ride and the great views you will see soon!

Hello Barry, splendid advice for any beginner! And thank you for clarifying the IPD stuff. (Cabelas did not really rush me - it was mostly me feeling bad about not going to buy an item ultimately that day)

I ended up following what you and a few others have advised on this thread. I ordered a binocular to get a hang of it in the outdoors for the next two-three months, to realize what we like and don't like. We were looking to buy two binoculars and use them for ~5 years. Based on what we felt and saw in store, we figured one Monarch7 (25% sale at LLBean with a 1year return policy, thanks to @Upland for the link) would be an ideal place to start. During this period, our intention is now try out the ED2/ED4, ViperHD and a few other models mentioned in this thread before making a purchase of the second binocular.

There is absolutely no way I could have made these decisions without your help, so thank you very much!

Happy birding, wildlife-ing, and binocular-ing everyone!
 
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Your're very welcome, but I don't know if it's splendid advice, though it's free at least! But if it helped you a bit, then it's OK. It sounds like you are on a sensible road to discovery now, so that's great. I'm sure there will be lots of enjoyment along the way for you two ahead. Have a blast!
 
Hi @Upland and others,

5. Is there a technical term for seeing those "blurry black boundary circles" when viewing through a binocular - like the images from the two barrels come close and overlap, there is mostly one single full circle, but there are also these blurry boundary sort-of-overlapping circles visible too? I really am not sure how to explain these. I didn't find this issue with the Swarovski's / the Zeiss, but I did find them with the Monarchs & Vipers. If you see what I mean, could you point out what causes this issue? Is it something that I need to adjust when looking through the binocular?

6. Finally, I am kicking myself for not having properly read @marcsantacurz's remark above about central sharpness. I totally missed judging this with the Monarchs vs. the others! I really want to try them once again and judge them by the sharpness, but another hike up to the Cabelas is not probably going to happen anytime soon. If any of you have any experiences judging the Monarch5's sharpness, I would greatly appreciate your insights! (On a related note, @marcsantacurz - what did you think are some of the shortcomings about M5 relative these models?)

So in summary, not a 100% satisfied with my visit, probably because of my inexperience in figuring out the the optical issues that arise with binoculars. I also did not want to take too much of their time (all of this got done in <20mins) because I kind of felt bad about not being able to make up my mind to buy a model at the end of it all today. So until the next Cabela's visit, more internet search for me, and that ... I dread.

Thank you all very much!

-- Kumar

The black circles are usually referred to as "blackout" and it can be either total or partial, occur in both eyes or only one, and come and go with changing light conditions and focus. Basically, your iris (at its current dilation) is not totally aligned down the center and so part of the vision is blacked out. Someone with a more technical bino background could correct me or elaborate more. You can "fix" it in one of several ways: adjust the IPD and maybe readjust time-to-time as your focus distance changes, adjust the eye relief depth (though usually once you find the best setting, it doesn't change), tilt the binos some so they are only on your brow and not cheek, or try a different make/model.

The Nikon M7s 8x30s do not fit my face, so I have blackout problems with it. I think it is pretty sharp side-to-side. I test this by focusing on something then rotating my head some until the subject moves to the side of the lens and I am looking at it out the side of my eye. It is not so easy to do when there are blackout problems, but I felt like I could always focus it and often I only needed to re-focus a small amount if at all.

I did notice that the Nikon M7s were noticeably darker in mixed or poor lighting than other 8x32 or 8x33 binos. I would assume the M5s are even worse.

I think comparing to the swaros is not an entirely bad thing -- though I'm sure the sales person was trying to upsell you, if not on the swaros then on something high-mid tier. In any case, unless you know what the high end view looks like you don't necessarily notice what you're missing.

In regards to sharpness, what I've found is that most modern binos of that price range can be sharp, but the question is at what cost. The Minox BL 8x33 HD, I can usually nail the diopter adjustment and nail the focus in about 1 try (no hunting back and forth). Others, I need to keep wiggling the focuser, or just cannot make out the same level of detail.
 
The black circles are usually referred to as "blackout" and it can be either total or partial, occur in both eyes or only one, and come and go with changing light conditions and focus. Basically, your iris (at its current dilation) is not totally aligned down the center and so part of the vision is blacked out. Someone with a more technical bino background could correct me or elaborate more. You can "fix" it in one of several ways: adjust the IPD and maybe readjust time-to-time as your focus distance changes, adjust the eye relief depth (though usually once you find the best setting, it doesn't change), tilt the binos some so they are only on your brow and not cheek, or try a different make/model.

The Nikon M7s 8x30s do not fit my face, so I have blackout problems with it. I think it is pretty sharp side-to-side. I test this by focusing on something then rotating my head some until the subject moves to the side of the lens and I am looking at it out the side of my eye. It is not so easy to do when there are blackout problems, but I felt like I could always focus it and often I only needed to re-focus a small amount if at all.

I did notice that the Nikon M7s were noticeably darker in mixed or poor lighting than other 8x32 or 8x33 binos. I would assume the M5s are even worse.

I think comparing to the swaros is not an entirely bad thing -- though I'm sure the sales person was trying to upsell you, if not on the swaros then on something high-mid tier. In any case, unless you know what the high end view looks like you don't necessarily notice what you're missing.

In regards to sharpness, what I've found is that most modern binos of that price range can be sharp, but the question is at what cost. The Minox BL 8x33 HD, I can usually nail the diopter adjustment and nail the focus in about 1 try (no hunting back and forth). Others, I need to keep wiggling the focuser, or just cannot make out the same level of detail.

I do get the train of thought that testing the Swaros before anything else helps you make better comparisons. The other side of that though besides someone just not wanting to be tempted to spend that kind of money, is that without the Swaro influence, it may be easier to go with what just feels better to a person overall in their desired price range.

Regardless of the swaros though, this hobby has now hit my OCD button and I'm now shopping around to see what would be in my wheelhouse should I ever choose to upgrade. The Vanguard ED ii's can now be had for $262 with a rebate via Amazon. That being said, I am wondering how they stack up against the Vortex Vipers, which I was EXTREMELY impressed by when I tested them last week. The cheapest I've found the Vipers is around $460 so that's a $200 difference.
 
Seems like you are doing well getting around and testing everything.

My 2 cents.

Stretch your budget or save a bit longer and get what you prefer now. Don't regret it. Buy once.

I have used Monarch 5 & 7 and Vanguard 8x32 edII. I'd go the Monarch 7 without doubt. More neutral colour and nice FOV in that price range. Monarch 5 isnt as bright, not great edge sharpness and the narrow FOV is very hard to go back to. The 7 isn't sharp on the edges either but it has a fair bit bigger area of view that is sharp.

The EDII has a less accurate focuser. Bit of play and rocking back and forward to get things in focus. Very frustrating after using both Monarchs which have a very smooth mechanism and focus that snaps into view and only requires adjustment when your target moves. Might have a poor sample but I definitely wouldn't like this one as a primary binocular.
 
I wanted good brightness+contrast+sharpness/clarity in dawn/dusk low-light conditions in as small a package as we can get within the budget of $250 ideally, extendable to $300. I also realized "looks" (whatever that may be) is key to me.

Hi Kumar,

My 2 cents:
I think you're kinda asking a lot (good brightness + contrast + sharpness/clarity in dawn/dusk low-light conditions) for this price.
Christmas is still far away ;o)

Binos are like camera lenses.

If you want a 500mm lens with this kind of requirements, you will have to pay an hefty price tag for it.

The Best Clarity in dawn/dusk conditions are given by 8x56 Binos (in theory, because it also depends of your age (pupils size) and the light transmission of the Binos).
So it doesn't go well with your small package requirement.

Find and Buy Binos giving you a picture YOU like through YOUR eyes (binos amazing for someone can be awful for someone else, YOUR Brain decides) and binos having ergonomics you like.
Wearing glasses (or sunglasses) or your IPD can turn a "Great" binocular into a shitty one in REAL use.

Some of us went to a shop determined to buy a model of Binos (sometimes with a few thousands to spend) because of reviews or advices, and came back with another one, because we tried them, and didn't like the ergonomics, or because another model was giving a better picture to our eyes/brain.

If you want to buy a matelas for your bed, you're going to try it right? Do the same with Binos, and maybe stop listening to others telling you what's best (unless they tell you there are quality issues).
 
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Seems like you are doing well getting around and testing everything.

My 2 cents.

Stretch your budget or save a bit longer and get what you prefer now. Don't regret it. Buy once.

I have used Monarch 5 & 7 and Vanguard 8x32 edII. I'd go the Monarch 7 without doubt. More neutral colour and nice FOV in that price range. Monarch 5 isnt as bright, not great edge sharpness and the narrow FOV is very hard to go back to. The 7 isn't sharp on the edges either but it has a fair bit bigger area of view that is sharp.

The EDII has a less accurate focuser. Bit of play and rocking back and forward to get things in focus. Very frustrating after using both Monarchs which have a very smooth mechanism and focus that snaps into view and only requires adjustment when your target moves. Might have a poor sample but I definitely wouldn't like this one as a primary binocular.

Thanks for the advice! The Vortex Vipers so far have given me the wow factor like none of the others I’ve tried - even over the Monarch 7 which I expected to love. I’m just going to keep saving and pull the trigger when I’m ready or when they go on sale.

And yes I have noticed the focuser having some play/backlash in my ED i’s. It’s nothing detrimental, but it’s be nice to have something more accurate.
 
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