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Multiple RAW convertion for high dynamic range (1 Viewer)

nigelblake

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Multiple RAW conversion for high dynamic range

There are circumstances when the contrast in a scene would seem too much to enable you get an image that resembles what you see with the eye, and also there are issues with changes in colour temperature throughout the scene as well.
One of the advantages of shooting RAW is the control that you have over the resulting image during processing, with jpegs you are stuck with the stripped down data that remains after the in-camera processing, so any adjustment you make in Photoshop etc will usually have a noise penalty.

Here are two images, the first is the scene straight from the camera, as you will see the underexposed forground, which is in shadow, also has a strong blue colour cast, the second image is a composite of 4 conversions of the same RAW file, each conversion having different amounts of adjustment to exposure, contrast and colour temperature, the accurately corrected elements of each image then make up the final picture. In this example I manually composited the various elements using layers, but there are high dynamic range (HDR) software available that will do this automatically, see details on picture link below.

Other than just several conversions of the same image file you can also shoot different bracketed exposures and get even greater dynamic range, an example here http://www.birdforum.net/pp_gallery/showphoto.php/photo/103783/sort/1/cat/500/page/3
of course these would need to be done on a locked-off tripod to ensure alignment in the final composite image although some of the HDR software will align images automatically.
If shooting several bracketed images it is also possible to increase DOF at the same time by using focus stacking, i.e focusing on distant, midrange and foreground on the separate shots so that when composited you have front to rear sharpness too.

This technique (multiple conversion of the same RAW file) will work very well on high contrast birds too, things like magpies and woodpeckers that are Black and white where there is a risk of blown whites being a good example.
 

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Thank you for a brilliant explanation Nigel very easy to understand. Now I will have to go out and give it a try. :clap:
 
nigelblake said:
There are circumstances when the contrast in a scene would seem too much to enable you get an image that resembles what you see with the eye, and also there are issues with changes in colour temperature throughout the scene as well.
One of the advantages of shooting RAW is the control that you have over the resulting image during processing, with jpegs you are stuck with the stripped down data that remains after the in-camera processing, so any adjustment you make in Photoshop etc will usually have a noise penalty.

Here are two images, the first is the scene straight from the camera, as you will see the underexposed forground, which is in shadow, also has a strong blue colour cast, the second image is a composite of 4 conversions of the same RAW file, each conversion having different amounts of adjustment to exposure, contrast and colour temperature, the accurately corrected elements of each image then make up the final picture. In this example I manually composited the various elements using layers, but there are high dynamic range (HDR) software available that will do this automatically, see details on picture link below.

Other than just several conversions of the same image file you can also shoot different bracketed exposures and get even greater dynamic range, an example here http://www.birdforum.net/pp_gallery/showphoto.php/photo/103783/sort/1/cat/500/page/3
of course these would need to be done on a locked-off tripod to ensure alignment in the final composite image although some of the HDR software will align images automatically.
If shooting several bracketed images it is also possible to increase DOF at the same time by using focus stacking, i.e focusing on distant, midrange and foreground on the separate shots so that when composited you have front to rear sharpness too.

This technique (multiple conversion of the same RAW file) will work very well on high contrast birds too, things like magpies and woodpeckers that are Black and white where there is a risk of blown whites being a good example.

Here is my recent effort to rescue an image of a red-backed hawk taken at the Hawk Conservancy near Andover. Not up to Nigel's standard but just the merging of two conversions of the same RAW image.
 
Leicaman said:
Here is my recent effort to rescue an image of a red-backed hawk taken at the Hawk Conservancy near Andover. Not up to Nigel's standard but just the merging of two conversions of the same RAW image.

Whoops the original attatchments were a bit too large so here goes for a second try.
 
Leicaman said:
Whoops the original attatchments were a bit too large so here goes for a second try.

One more try and I give up (for the moment).
 

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Interesting stuff Nigel. I have been trying some HDR myself lately using the built-in action in CS2 (file>Automate>Merge to HDR) Tried saving 3 or 4 different copies of the same RAW file e.g -2, -1, 0, +1 ect and doing a HDR but this does not work as CS2 reports back that there is not enough Dynamic range. Like you say, you have to take multiple exposures using a good solid tripod. I have played around with it but have yet to get any decent results.
 
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Roy C said:
but this does not work as CS2 reports back that there is not enough Dynamic range. Like you say, you have to take multiple exposures using a good solid tripod.
I don't think the CS2 action is that good personally, I have been doing multi conversions then compositing the exposure corrected elements of the images into one manually prior to when any of the software was available, its fairly quick and I think it works as well as, or sometimes better than, automated software.

Certainly multiple bracketed images gives much greater dynamic range, but multiple conversion of the same RAW file can make a significant difference to an image as well.

This Dipper image shows the technique too. It is an example of how to save blowing the whites and still maintain detail across the whole image.
http://www.birdforum.net/pp_gallery/showphoto.php/photo/69996/sort/1/cat/500/page/1
 
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Like Nigel most people do not seem to rate the CS2 action. It seems that Photomatix is considered to be one of the best HDR software.
I have been using stacked Exposures from the same RAW file in some of my landscape shots, mainly to pep-up the sky My method is probably crude but it seems to work quite well. I place an underexposed shot for the sky underneath the normal exposure, make a selection of the sky, feather the selection and use the eraser to reveal the sky. I think there are better of doing this by using a mask layer instead of the eraser but I have yet to master this.
 
Here are some other ways of doing it, from The Luminous Landscape website. The Layer Mask method has the advantage of semi-automating the process - just follow the steps.
 
Recurvirostra said:
Here are some other ways of doing it, from The Luminous Landscape website. The Layer Mask method has the advantage of semi-automating the process - just follow the steps.
Thanks for the link John, I will give it a try.
 
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