Next morning we drove higher – up beyond the cactus zone into the true altiplano, of dry grasslands and bare hillsides showing rocks of colours ranging from iron red through yellows, purples and greys to a soft green. A few of the highest peaks were snow-capped – and some of them were over 5,000m. It was up here saw our first Llamas – first a loose flock strolling along a dry river bed, and then smaller groups in roadside fields.
Over the course of the day we also saw some 200 more slender, less wooly, and genuinely wild Vicunas. One of Argentina’s conservation success stories, a ban on hunting has led to significant increases in the population of Vicuna, plus other quality mammals such as Jaguar and Giant Anteater (but not in this area). Puma, which is found all over the country, has done much better – we heard that the hosts of our accommodation had lost 9 sheep to a Puma. In the evenings and mornings I scanned the ridges above the hotel, but more in hope than expectation – and needless to say – without success.
The main target of the day was the Laguna de los Pozuelos a 16,000 hectare saline lake at around 3,400m. The main purpose was to fulfill my desire to see the three high altitude flamingo species. To be honest I was disappointed as I had expectations of seeing good-sized flocks in close proximity. In the end the larger congregations were distant specks in the heat haze, but we did get within a couple of of hundred metres of six birds, which included four Andean (yellow legs)and two Chilean Flamingos (greenish legs with pink knees).
As we arrived I was astonished to learn from one of the park guards that Argentina’s first Wandering Tattler had recently been found there. I didn’t see it but there was a collection of waders that included several Baird’s Sandpipers – looking just as long-winged and weetabix-y as the only other one I’ve seen (on Porthcressa Beach, Scilly in 1987) – and Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Black-naped Stilt, plus the altiplano endemic Puna Plover, and Andean Lapwing, which replaces Southern Lapwing at this altitude. However the undisputed king of the waders here was the wonderful Andean Avocet – pure white except for its black wings and tail and elegantly upturned bill.
Other birds on the lake included a couple of dozen Giant Coot and Silvery Grebes and we saw well over 100 Andean Geese, looking very plumped up, fluffy and short-billed – and every inch the high altitude endemic. The other really good bird up here was one we’d looked out for all day without success, and it was not until we were well on the way back that I was delighted to find a group of four Lesser Rheas standing remarkably unobtrusively in a roadside gully. Puna Miners, which marched about with the diminutive self-importance I always associate with Hume's Groundpecker from the Tibetan Plateau, were one of the few passerines around the lake.
Another stop at a small marsh (on route 7) just to the northwest of Abra Pampa produced another small flurry, with an Aplomado Falcon perched on a fence post, a dark-winged Pinnated Bittern that chose the perfect moment to fly up and away from the roadside, a very confiding Puna Ibis, an Andean Gull, a Crested Duck, and a wonderful male Cinerous Harrier hunting across the grasslands. Other raptors seen during the day included a couple of pairs of Mountain Caracara, and three or four Red-backed Hawks and a couple of American Kestrels.
I did less well for passerines, but at various stops I was able to grab shots of a few finches for subsequent identification. My favourite of these was a Plumbeous Sierra Finch that perched on a fence post with a snow-capped mountain in the background, a Band-tailed Sierra Finch that claimed a different fencepost close to the llamas, a chunky-billed Puna Yellow Finch on a nearby strand of wire, and a female Band-tailed Seed-eater which I found during a rest stop as it fed in grasses above a water-filled roadside ditch, where two dozen Shiny Cowbirds and several Eared Doves were bathing while a Patagonian Mockingbird watched from an overhead wire.
I'll post pix in batches to follow
Cheers
Mike