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Micro Four-Thirds (1 Viewer)

Here is my experience with the EM-1 / MB / 400mm:

Using single focus point small and regular shutter.

I have not experienced focus refusal.

It will sometimes struggle to focus, hunting for a while and even not being able to focus but it keeps on trying. This happens mostly in branches or when there is a big difference in distance with the last shot. Pre-focusing on an easy target at about the same distance fixes the problem but is is often too late... I hate this lens at close range in branches. :C

Focus accuracy is so-so. I can't rely on the lens to give me a perfectly focused shot. I need to take a few photos to make sure. Correctly focused images are nice and sharp.

There is minimal play between the camera and the MB adapter and between the adapter and camera. IMO, this is a very good fit. My 12-40mm has no play at all, my 14-150mm is about the same as the MB and the 100-300mm has about twice as much.

Tord, when it refuses to focus, have you tried the lens release button? On very rare occasions, my 12-40mm lens will not show any image in the vf - and pushing the lens release button fixes the problem.
 
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Tord, when it refuses to focus, have you tried the lens release button? On very rare occasions, my 12-40mm lens will not show any image in the vf - and pushing the lens release button fixes the problem.

Jules,

I have not tried the lens release button. In the first place I remedied by power off/on, and later on I found that a gentle axial twist of the setup remedied it. Next time it happens will try what you suggest and also make a note in which direction I had to twist the setup.

The behavior I get reminds very much of the one I have when attaching a 4/3 lens to the EM-1 using a faulty, cheap chinese replica of an MMF. In that replica the spring for the rightmost contact on the lens side is stuck inside the adapter, the pin is buried inside the plastic. I think it is the contact that controls the focus motor, but I may be wrong on this. Anyhow, what happens is that I get image as well as information as expected in VF, however the camera/lens won't attempt to focus.

Because of the play that I perceive as larger in the MB compared to when attaching my 4/3 lenses with a genuine MMF3, it could be that the contact through same pin sometimes is interrupted and the FW ends up in a dysfunctional state because of this. I will try to measure as accurately how much the play is, both camera and lens side.
 
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Focus accuracy is so-so. I can't rely on the lens to give me a perfectly focused shot. I need to take a few photos to make sure. Correctly focused images are nice and sharp.
...
Jules,
Do you shoot a sequence, or single frames and re-acquire focus for each? Do you have S-AF shutter release priority ON or OFF?
 
Jules,
Do you shoot a sequence, or single frames and re-acquire focus for each? Do you have S-AF shutter release priority ON or OFF?

Here are the relevant settings for Birding:

SCP settings
ISO 800
AF Mode = S-AF MF
Metering: Spot
Multi Frames = Multi Frame L w/Antishock
Flash = ON
AF Area = 1(s) Fonctions du Menu
WB Auto
Picture Mode 3 Natural
Sharpness = -1
Multi Frames = Single Frame anti-shock on
Face Priority = OFF
Color Space = Adobe
RAW
S-IS = Auto
Image Aspect: 4x3
IS For non MFT lens: 600mm
Touch screen = OFF

Menu 2
Anti-Shock/Silent: Anti-Shock = 0 seconds - Silent - OFF

Custom A Menu
Full-time AF = OFF
AEL/AFL / S-AF = Mode 2
AEL/AFL / C-AF = Mode 2
AEL/AFL / MF = Mode 2
MF Assist = Magnify = OFF & Peaking = OFF
C-AF Lock = Normal
Set Home: 1(S) (1 small square)

Custom B Menu
Button Functions:
- Fn1 = Magnify
- Fn2 = AF Home (...)
- One Touch White Bal button (top front) = Digital Teleconverter
- Preview Button (Bottom Front) = Peaking

Custom C Menu
RLS Priority S-MODE: = Off
RLS Priority C-MODE: = ON
Burst Low FPS = 5
Burst Hig PFS = 10
Burst + IS OFF = ON
Half way Rls with IS: ON
Release Lag Time: Short

Custom D Menu
Displayed Grid = Target
Histogram Settings = 250 & 5
Frame rate = Normal
LV Close Up Mode = Mode2
Sleep = 1 min

Custom E Menu
EV Steps = 1/3
Noise Filter = Off
ISO Step = 1EV
ISO-Auto Set = 3200 & 200

Custom G Menu
Set = L & F - JPEG image quality
WB = Auto
WB Auto Keep warm color = Off

Custom J Menu
Built-in EVF Style = 3
Info Settings: All On
Displayed Grid = Target

Utility Menu
Rec View = 0.5 Sec - Display photo after shooting
 
Tord,
I find the normal point a bit faster under normal circumstances, but small is better when trying to single out a bird through the branches etc, or if there is time and it is very important for the focus to be on a particular point, like the eye when there is not enough DoF to work with.
As I understand it, in burst mode but not in C-AF (which doesn't work anyway) the camera does not try to focus between shots. First one should freeze the focus. I had release priority off for a while, but now just rely on the green box, no beep. I want to be able to decide when it goes off.
 
Tord,
I find the normal point a bit faster under normal circumstances, but small is better when trying to single out a bird through the branches etc, or if there is time and it is very important for the focus to be on a particular point, like the eye when there is not enough DoF to work with.
As I understand it, in burst mode but not in C-AF (which doesn't work anyway) the camera does not try to focus between shots. First one should freeze the focus. I had release priority off for a while, but now just rely on the green box, no beep. I want to be able to decide when it goes off.
Dan,

What still defies my comprehension is how the focus can be changed to such extent within a sequence. Small changes could be explained by movements of the camera caused by photographer, but we are talking about 5cm at relatively close range < 10 meters and increasing for longer distance shots.

So from this I deduct that somehow the focus is adjusted for each frame.

I will try normal point instead of small and see if it improves AF consistency/reduces the spread within a sequence.

I am quite puzzled since the lens I borrowed before buying delivered consistent results, with only few frames OOF. Refer to samples I shared back in November. I don't recall if I used small or normal AF point, but am 100% certain I shot in sequence and with shutter release priority = Off.

/Tord
 
We were out for a little while and I did some burst/focus testing and it seems mine does NOT try to re-focus between shots. The only thing I notice with the silent shutter is the geometric distortion (rolling shutter). The slightest movement of the camera means pretty big differences from one shot to the next. But the focus is bang on and stays on during the burst.
I think it will be best to use AS=0 and only use silent when it is really necessary.
I did some more testing early this morning on the moon, and there it works fine. Stack of 10 shots out of 20 at 7fps.

P1301447 10xstack.jpg

More testing will follow.
 
Dan,

What still defies my comprehension is how the focus can be changed to such extent within a sequence. Small changes could be explained by movements of the camera caused by photographer, but we are talking about 5cm at relatively close range < 10 meters and increasing for longer distance shots.

So from this I deduct that somehow the focus is adjusted for each frame.

I will try normal point instead of small and see if it improves AF consistency/reduces the spread within a sequence.

I am quite puzzled since the lens I borrowed before buying delivered consistent results, with only few frames OOF. Refer to samples I shared back in November. I don't recall if I used small or normal AF point, but am 100% certain I shot in sequence and with shutter release priority = Off.

/Tord

Have you tried your lens with a Canon camera ?
 
So, I have done some systematic testing with a tripod, test target, ruler, and remote (iPhone 4s) and everything is sharp as a tack! I used both focus priority on and off, 7fps with normal and silent shutter. Scored a clear 10 out of 10. Not one frame even a millimeter OOF.
I would think about doing a hard reset of your camera, reloading the latest firmware, and trying again. It has to be the body. The lens only does what the body tells it to, and the Metabones only translates from Olympese to Canonese.

Have you noticed the same sort of behavior with any of your 4/3 lenses?
 
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So, I have done some systematic testing with a tripod, test target, ruler, and remote (iPhone 4s) and everything is sharp as a tack! I used both focus priority on and off, 7fps with normal and silent shutter. Scored a clear 10 out of 10. Not one frame even a millimeter OOF.
I would think about doing a hard reset of your camera, reloading the latest firmware, and trying again. It has to be the body. The lens only does what the body tells it to, and the Metabones only translates from Olympese to Canonese.

Dan,

Allow me to disagree... I once had a Sigma 28-300mm that was focusing all over the place. A nightmare ! The dealer took it back. So it can be the lens itself that is causing the problem

Also, I think that the programming in the MB could be the culprit. However, it should do it on all lenses, not just on some lenses, so it is probably not the cause of the problem.

Body ? Possible.

I find this problem troublesome. Tord and I have it and you don't. In my case, I haven't measured it in a controlled environment but there is definitely a problem. When one of 3 shots of a stationary bird in a clean environment is slightly out of focus, something is wrong and I have observed this situation quite a few times. Mine is a used lens but it comes from a person I trust and it was a good performer on a Canon 7D.

In my case, it seems that the focus tolerance of the lens/adapter is a bit too much, which would explain why it becomes more of a problem as distance increases.

I'll try to find time to make formal focus tests. Not very pleasant in winter time...
 
It is the body that is giving the command to focus. Focus is driven by the body. The lens gets its instructions and power from the body. If the lens is trying to focus between shots, the body is for some reason telling it to do so.
Because your Sigma lens wasn't focusing might have simply been an incompatibility issue. Did you get a working replacement for it? If so, maybe it had buggy firmware. Maybe Tord's 400 has buggy firmware, but I rather doubt it. It does not make sense that it focuses correctly on the first shot and then wanders off on its own.
Have a look at pages 57 under Sequential H and L in the English instruction manual, with further referrals to pages 75 and 102. Maybe there is something in the settings that is buggy. I have my Seq. L set to 6.5 and silent Seq. L set to 5 fps. Never use 10. AEL/AFL set to mode 1. I do not have AEL/AFL assigned to a button.

I will check in with the German Oly forum. Very knowledgeable people there. Maybe someone has an idea what is going on.


Later... Tord, one question has arisen: are your single shots really in focus? Have you checked to see if your Canon needs micro focus adjustment. Normally it shouldn't be necessary with in-chip AF, but it could and there is the micro focus adjustment in the firmware. Might be worth checking.
 
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OK so I did a test this afternoon. I took the opportunity having a cooperative subject for a few minutes. Fired two shots, S-AF, 3 fps, release shutter prio = off, single AF point normal. Aimed at chin/neck.

In total there are 7 sequences. For each there two shots, all taken over the course of a few minutes. Distance is between 8-4 meters.

Shutter times: 1/400 - 1/200s, Auto-ISO (400-1600), F/5.6

Cropping to exactly 50% for increased detail/easing assessing the focus and posting each sequence separately.

My evaluation is after pixel-peeping the ORFs, magnified.

As you can see there are differences in focus between shots, and the difference does not shot a consistent pattern.

#1: Not bad, but focus is on the twig (a few cm back focus)
#2: Focus spot on
 

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#1: 2 cm back-focus breast feathers/legs
#2: 4 cm back focus, twig
 

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#1: 4 cm back focus, twig
#2: > 4 cm back focus, behind twig
 

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#1: 2-3 cm back focus (wings)
#2: About the same
 

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#1: 1 cm back-focus (shoulders)
#2: 2-3 cm back focus (wing)
 

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#1: 3 cm back focus (vent)
#2: 4 cm back focus (legs)
 

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#1; focus OK (neck)
#2: 1 cm front focus (tip of beak)
 

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Jules,

...

Because of the play that I perceive as larger in the MB compared to when attaching my 4/3 lenses with a genuine MMF3, it could be that the contact through same pin sometimes is interrupted and the FW ends up in a dysfunctional state because of this. I will try to measure as accurately how much the play is, both camera and lens side.

I measured the play and it is more than 1mm, but less than 1.5mm. Twisting the camera/MB/lens combo with between the extremes.
Measuring the camera/MMF3/50-200 lens the play is less than a mm.
 
It is the body that is giving the command to focus. Focus is driven by the body. The lens gets its instructions and power from the body. If the lens is trying to focus between shots, the body is for some reason telling it to do so.
Because your Sigma lens wasn't focusing might have simply been an incompatibility issue. Did you get a working replacement for it? If so, maybe it had buggy firmware. Maybe Tord's 400 has buggy firmware, but I rather doubt it. It does not make sense that it focuses correctly on the first shot and then wanders off on its own.
Have a look at pages 57 under Sequential H and L in the English instruction manual, with further referrals to pages 75 and 102. Maybe there is something in the settings that is buggy. I have my Seq. L set to 6.5 and silent Seq. L set to 5 fps. Never use 10. AEL/AFL set to mode 1. I do not have AEL/AFL assigned to a button.

I will check in with the German Oly forum. Very knowledgeable people there. Maybe someone has an idea what is going on.


Later... Tord, one question has arisen: are your single shots really in focus? Have you checked to see if your Canon needs micro focus adjustment. Normally it shouldn't be necessary with in-chip AF, but it could and there is the micro focus adjustment in the firmware. Might be worth checking.
Dan,

As you can see from my test (previous post) it is not the case that there is a consistent bias towards front or back focus with this lens. From these quick tests it shows more often back focus than front focus, although it is not always the case.

To better understand what's going on, I have been inspecting shots taken with the EM1 and teh Zuiko 300/2.8 on static subjects and the issue with inconsistent focus is visible there too. It's a mixed bag of back and front focus.

Maybe the simplest explanation is that my copy of the EM1 body is the one be blamed?
 
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