Think he meant the EM1-1 but these Panasonics are so good who knows :-O
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New Panasonic G80 or 85 ? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nikonmike
- Start date
Think he meant the EM1-1 but these Panasonics are so good who knows :-O
Hello all,
I am getting closer to pulling the trigger, and for cost reasons I think this is the camera I will go with. It looks like it fits battery with my old GH2, yes! So for my question: is this an appropriate class of memory card for this camera? https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ex...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FMG0QYHMPYFW032W8DRJ
Any place where this and the 100-400 can be had significantly cheaper than at amazon?
Niels
Niels
I am getting closer to pulling the trigger, and for cost reasons I think this is the camera I will go with. It looks like it fits battery with my old GH2, yes! So for my question: is this an appropriate class of memory card for this camera? https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ex...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FMG0QYHMPYFW032W8DRJ
Any place where this and the 100-400 can be had significantly cheaper than at amazon?
Niels
Niels
Thats the card i use not had any slowing down,i haven't done 4k though,the main thing will be getting the camera set right for speed,did 8 shots of this yesterday.
Attachments
Thanks Mike,
I have used the same 16gb card on my GH2 forever (when traveling emptying the card every night), so not really used to thinking about the card failing. I am also considering some 4k video, though I do not know how much upgrade my software would need to be able to do that.
Niels
I have used the same 16gb card on my GH2 forever (when traveling emptying the card every night), so not really used to thinking about the card failing. I am also considering some 4k video, though I do not know how much upgrade my software would need to be able to do that.
Niels
dalat
...
I eventually plunged for the G80 and the 100-400, and just back from the first holidays with it.
Really happy, great combo, very portable and a huge step up from my previous FZ200 (never used a DSLR for birds, so can't compare). The camera is real fast with autofocus, and I was also very happy with flying birds against the sky.
Continous AF also seem to work well, but I have to play more with it (in the last weeks, my focus was on birding and less on optimising camera settings). When I tried AF-C bursts of a fly past or approaching bird, usually some shots were blurry but most were good.
Where I struggeled was with focussing on flying birds against busy backgrounds, but then that's probably one of the most difficult situations and I'm not sure how much this tells about the camera's ability (sure a lot about mine).
Image quality is very good for my taste (again, I'm not used to modern APS-C or larger formats).
A few samples here (jpgs out of the camera, some cropping, compression by google photos).
Really happy, great combo, very portable and a huge step up from my previous FZ200 (never used a DSLR for birds, so can't compare). The camera is real fast with autofocus, and I was also very happy with flying birds against the sky.
Continous AF also seem to work well, but I have to play more with it (in the last weeks, my focus was on birding and less on optimising camera settings). When I tried AF-C bursts of a fly past or approaching bird, usually some shots were blurry but most were good.
Where I struggeled was with focussing on flying birds against busy backgrounds, but then that's probably one of the most difficult situations and I'm not sure how much this tells about the camera's ability (sure a lot about mine).
Image quality is very good for my taste (again, I'm not used to modern APS-C or larger formats).
A few samples here (jpgs out of the camera, some cropping, compression by google photos).
Good results,for BIF i use single center point or the small block,never use any form of tracking as i find it hinders me and i have the 5mt limit switched on.
(exeptions would possibly be birds against the sky)
Most of the time if you have a busy back ground waiting untill the focus point is over the bird,start panning then press the shutter the bird will be the only image the camera can see as sharp as its moving at the same speed as the camera.
You may want to look into shooting raw as shadows are easier to bring up a little.
dalat
...
Hi Mike,
thanks a lot for your comments and tips for BIF against busy backgrounds! Indeed, I think getting better at keeping the bird in the center and panning will be key for me.
You say you use no form of tracking, does that mean you use only AFS, or do you use AF-C?
Yes, I will start to look into raw, but for now there is still so much to find out about the camera, so I'll put that on for later...
Cheers, Florian
thanks a lot for your comments and tips for BIF against busy backgrounds! Indeed, I think getting better at keeping the bird in the center and panning will be key for me.
You say you use no form of tracking, does that mean you use only AFS, or do you use AF-C?
Yes, I will start to look into raw, but for now there is still so much to find out about the camera, so I'll put that on for later...
Cheers, Florian
I use AFC, i guess you have turned image review off.
So I pulled the trigger yesterday and should get the G85 and the PL100-400 next week. I will receive in the middle of a travel, and want to use it immediately. Any good advice on which settings to start with?
With my previous setup (GH2, 100-300) I have been used to SAF, shutter priority (1/400 or so), auto iso w max 3200.
Niels
With my previous setup (GH2, 100-300) I have been used to SAF, shutter priority (1/400 or so), auto iso w max 3200.
Niels
dalat
...
Well, that is a good question? I'd also like to know that o
I'm just starting, still learning and experimenting, but here what I use so far:
c1, for stationary birds or birds in foliage: aperture priority wide open, max iso at 3200, AFS, single AF field as small as possible (the centre point option is precise but much slower than the smallest field)
c2, for BIF: shutter priority at 1300, no iso limit, AFC, larger single AF field or the smallest cross (still trying which is better).
Any comments to that welcome
I'm still really not sure what to do with a couple of other settings:
-
- IS off for BIF, or leave it on?
- pluses or minuses to AF sensitivity
- AFF, what is that for?
- Speed high or medium (perfomance should not be limited by "high", but I hesitate to fill up the card so fast...)
Congratulations
A starting point
Shutter priority
Auto ISO capped at 6400
Image review off
AFC with the refocus speed set at +2
Shutter set for focus priority release
6 fps (medium setting)but that is too high for me too many images the same,i would like about 4fps but I think I will have to go to low which is 2.
Centre focus point cant remember what its called but its not the smallest one,i will set a custom mode two with the smallest focus point for working through tree branches.
Refocus speed acording to the book is
Sets the sensitivity to be applied when adjusting the focus
according to the movement of the subject.
• When the distance to the subject changes drastically:
– [+] side: The camera re-adjusts the focus immediately.
You can bring different subjects into focus one after
another.
– [-] side: The camera waits for a short period of time
before re-adjusting the focus. This allows you to
prevent the focus from being accidentally re-adjusted
when, for example, an object moves across the image.
• This item works only when the Focus Mode is set to [AFF]
or [AFC].
s
MENU > [Custom]
A starting point
Shutter priority
Auto ISO capped at 6400
Image review off
AFC with the refocus speed set at +2
Shutter set for focus priority release
6 fps (medium setting)but that is too high for me too many images the same,i would like about 4fps but I think I will have to go to low which is 2.
Centre focus point cant remember what its called but its not the smallest one,i will set a custom mode two with the smallest focus point for working through tree branches.
Refocus speed acording to the book is
Sets the sensitivity to be applied when adjusting the focus
according to the movement of the subject.
• When the distance to the subject changes drastically:
– [+] side: The camera re-adjusts the focus immediately.
You can bring different subjects into focus one after
another.
– [-] side: The camera waits for a short period of time
before re-adjusting the focus. This allows you to
prevent the focus from being accidentally re-adjusted
when, for example, an object moves across the image.
• This item works only when the Focus Mode is set to [AFF]
or [AFC].
s
MENU > [Custom]
dalat
...
Thanks a lot Mike!
I missed that. Good, that means no need to bother for AFS.
I still wonder though if +2 or -2 would be better for BIF? -2 is supposed to stick better with the bird, once you got that in focus. But probably it would also stick better to a cluttered background rather than go back on the bird, which is difficult to keep constantly in the focus field... ?
I still struggle to understand what exactly AFF is? From reading the manual, it seems quite similar to AFC. What is the difference? And does anyone use AFF at all?
I missed that. Good, that means no need to bother for AFS.
I still wonder though if +2 or -2 would be better for BIF? -2 is supposed to stick better with the bird, once you got that in focus. But probably it would also stick better to a cluttered background rather than go back on the bird, which is difficult to keep constantly in the focus field... ?
I still struggle to understand what exactly AFF is? From reading the manual, it seems quite similar to AFC. What is the difference? And does anyone use AFF at all?
dalat
...
One more things I'm unsure about is the different shutter options: mechanical, electronic, and electronic first curtain...
The mechanical shutter is very quiet and does not bother me at all. Shutter shock is reportedly not a real issue with the G80. Rolling shutter effects should only occasionally be an issue with bird photos. So it does not really matter which option is used. Or does it?
The mechanical shutter is very quiet and does not bother me at all. Shutter shock is reportedly not a real issue with the G80. Rolling shutter effects should only occasionally be an issue with bird photos. So it does not really matter which option is used. Or does it?
With most electronic shutters ( the new Sony A9 aside) you lose some dynamic range in your images and i think flash sync speeds are slower.
I dont use it as i want to be ready for BIF and if there is somthing tall and straight in the background it wil bend it.
I may use it for the Swallows but i will be prefocused and using a 4K mode.
I don't believe there's any IQ penalty in using the electronic shutter on the EM-1 mk. ii either, so it may be worth getting data on your specific model. I use the e-shutter exclusively now on that model.
dalat
...
Thanks both!
I read somewhere a discussion on the question whether the G80 records with 10 or 12 bit when using e-shutter. No idea what this means, but is this what you are referring to when talking about IQ loss with e-shutter?
May I ask why?
I read somewhere a discussion on the question whether the G80 records with 10 or 12 bit when using e-shutter. No idea what this means, but is this what you are referring to when talking about IQ loss with e-shutter?
May I ask why?
No shutter shock; no disturbing others or wildlife with shutter noise; no worries about limited life of mechanical shutter.
Not having shutter noise has a few slight drawbacks, e.g. others may not realize you are photographing and may act inappropriately. Also, it's probably easier to run off a bunch of exposures accidentally because you won't hear any noise. (I had about 600 of those on a recent trip; though I also usually had some when I used the mechanical shutter).