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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Well, they're here. (1 Viewer)

Maljunulo

Well-known member
My glasses were just delivered by FedEx two hours ago.

I had only been able to try them, and compare them indoors, so the first outdoor use was a revelation. I sat on a balcony, overlooking my back yard, and looked at everything in sight. Unbeknownst to me, there is a chipmunk living in a toppled over maple tree just at the edge of my woods. I had quite a nice view if him scratching his fleas, and scurrying around, while he was sitting in a very shaded area.

The images are absolutely breathtaking, with subtle coloring, shading, and textures, previously unseen in my faithful Nikon Venturer LX. (also 10X42) The focus wheel is different, and brand new, so I will have to get used to that.

The balance is fine, and the glasses come naturally to the eyes. I like the sticky rubber, but I don't know if it becomes less sticky with use. I still need to use a star to set up the diopter adjustment perfectly, but no hope of that for at least 48 hours.

These are my new "drag them everywhere" glasses, and I wouldn't trade them for anything, even after only a half-hour's use. It is interesting to see what you never knew was there, when using other glasses.

(I have spent more than sixty years looking through various and sundry binoculars, and these are the best yet, by far.)

I also posted this as a customer review on the vendor's website.
 
Hi there...
you don't say exactly what Swarovski binocular model you have.
Could you tell us what model and what power/size?
 
My glasses were just delivered by FedEx two hours ago.

I had only been able to try them, and compare them indoors, so the first outdoor use was a revelation. I sat on a balcony, overlooking my back yard, and looked at everything in sight. Unbeknownst to me, there is a chipmunk living in a toppled over maple tree just at the edge of my woods. I had quite a nice view if him scratching his fleas, and scurrying around, while he was sitting in a very shaded area.

The images are absolutely breathtaking, with subtle coloring, shading, and textures, previously unseen in my faithful Nikon Venturer LX. (also 10X42) The focus wheel is different, and brand new, so I will have to get used to that.

The balance is fine, and the glasses come naturally to the eyes. I like the sticky rubber, but I don't know if it becomes less sticky with use. I still need to use a star to set up the diopter adjustment perfectly, but no hope of that for at least 48 hours.

These are my new "drag them everywhere" glasses, and I wouldn't trade them for anything, even after only a half-hour's use. It is interesting to see what you never knew was there, when using other glasses.

(I have spent more than sixty years looking through various and sundry binoculars, and these are the best yet, by far.)

I also posted this as a customer review on the vendor's website.

I think you mentioned these on another thread, 10x42 SV EL, de acuerdo? Never tried the SV version because of "rolling ball" phobia. I do like the 10x42 SLC-HD. Stick the SLC's optics in the SV EL's body, and I think I'd be in binonirvana.

I'm interested to hear what you think of the focuser, you never know with Swaros, but I'd bet your Old Faithful's focuser is smoother and faster.

A balcony, a beer and a Swaro 10x42, what more could you ask except for Sofía Vergara to be sunbathing on the balcony next to you! ;)

Brock
 
Sorry ... Yes, they are the EL SV 10X42.

It's hard to comment on the focuser, at this early date, but, as you say, it is nothing like the Nikon focuser. It will be interesting to see which way it goes, easier, or harder, as it breaks in. I'm not going to knock it, because it is so different, it will take some time to adjust my technique.

If it gets stiffer, or begins to bug me, I am not that far from Rhode Island, so I can show up on their doorstep, and make unhappy noises.

It's pretty dark in the woods now, due to a solid overcast, and I don't want to go stomping around in there without doing the whole boots, bug spray, etc. ritual.

I am beyond delighted.

ETA: Now it's really too dark, but with "first light" from my balcony, I bagged Chipmunk, Robins, Baltimore Oriole, Hummingbird (too quick to ID in poor light, and it was not a Hummingbird Moth), Flicker (female) and a Turkey Vulture. Actually there were three Vultures which landed in my big Maple tree, but I only got a good look at one of them, for ID.
 
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"use a star to set the diopter" That's new one to me could you please explain? I'm very curious as I always have trouble setting the diopter correctly.
Thanks
Steve
 
"use a star to set the diopter" That's new one to me could you please explain? I'm very curious as I always have trouble setting the diopter correctly.
Thanks
Steve

Stars are a true point source, and they are at infinity ... so.

1. Cover your right objective and focus a bright star to a pinpoint. (or as small as you can get it)

2. Uncover the right objective and cover the left objective.

3. Pull out the diopter wheel, and focus the star to a pinpoint.

4. Snap the diopter wheel back in, and never touch it again.

I hope this helps.
Richard
 
Stars are a true point source, and they are at infinity ... so.

1. Cover your right objective and focus a bright star to a pinpoint. (or as small as you can get it)

2. Uncover the right objective and cover the left objective.

3. Pull out the diopter wheel, and focus the star to a pinpoint.

4. Snap the diopter wheel back in, and never touch it again.

I hope this helps.
Richard

Richard:

To set a diopter your explanation is standard as found in any binocular manual.

A star point is not needed but just an average distant point, and that
may be just a easy to focus target of any kind and 100 yds. is good.

It is easy to do, and very necessary to obtain the proper view.
I am just adding this, to not make things hard or complicated.

Jerry
 
How distant should this be????

If viewing in a retail setting, is there enough distance across the store for truly precise diopter adjustment??

CG
 
Richard:

To set a diopter your explanation is standard as found in any binocular manual.

A star point is not needed but just an average distant point, and that
may be just a easy to focus target of any kind and 100 yds. is good.

It is easy to do, and very necessary to obtain the proper view.
I am just adding this, to not make things hard or complicated.

Jerry

Not to be argumentative, but I think a star is better than an extended object, because of its very high contrast, and the fact that there is absolutely no question of where optimum focus is, given decent optics. Stars are also self luminous, which I think is better. By the way, the star should be on axis for this procedure.
 
Sticky rubber ? I though you were talking about EDG. EL SV is very comfortable to hold, but never described as STICKY.

Anyway, congratulation for having one of the best bins ever.
 
Not to be argumentative, but I think a star is better than an extended object, because of its very high contrast, and the fact that there is absolutely no question of where optimum focus is, given decent optics. Stars are also self luminous, which I think is better. By the way, the star should be on axis for this procedure.

Not intending to be argumentative either but I'd suggest if you use your binos for star watching, use stars, if it's for daylight use then use a daylight target.

Night time visual acuity is much worse than daytime so will not have the same precision. The dioptre correction needed for a 5mm+ pupil diameter may be significantly different from 2-3mm daylight diameters. I certainly need different settings for day and night.

David
 
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Not intending to be argumentative either but I'd suggest if you use your binos for star watching, use stars, if it's for daylight use then use a daylight target.

Night time visual acuity is much worse than daytime so will not have the same precision. The dioptre correction needed for a 5mm+ pupil diameter may be significantly different from 2-3mm daylight diameters. I certainly need different settings for day and night.

David

That's interesting, I'll have to play with that.

Thanks for the idea.

R.

ETA: I never realized how well I could see, until I bought my Swarovski EL SV 10X42 binoculars.
 
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Not intending to be argumentative either but I'd suggest if you use your binos for star watching, use stars, if it's for daylight use then use a daylight target.

Night time visual acuity is much worse than daytime so will not have the same precision. The dioptre correction needed for a 5mm+ pupil diameter may be significantly different from 2-3mm daylight diameters. I certainly need different settings for day and night.

David

Quite right, David. The eye's best point of focus in daylight is the fovea. At night, when dark adapted, that point moves off-axis roughly 17 degrees, and visual resolution becomes limited by rod cell density not cone density (20/200 or less).

Ed
 
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I've noticed that description used by the hunting crowd but it's usually singular as in "I got my new glass today," or "I glassed the top of the ridge."
 
Quite right, David. The eye's best point of focus in daylight is the fovea. At night, when dark adapted, that point moves off-axis roughly 17 degrees, and visual resolution becomes limited by rod cell density not cone density (20/200 or less).

Ed

Ed,

I suspect many stars are going to be bright enough to activate cones, so perhaps star gazing is more mesopic than scotopic. EdZ over on CN did a little star splitting survey a while back and came up with about 20/30 as a median result but with a big spread. So half as good as good as daytime acuity might be a reasonable generalisation.

From my experience I can readily confirm that real scotopic acuity can be as bad as you suggest and worryingly, it seems to be getting worse year by year. :-C

David
 
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