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Exposure Compensation (1 Viewer)

tbc

Well-known member
Hi All,

Need help with adjustment of exposure compensation on D300s. I have tried to shoot 3 shots with +5, 0 & -5 on glossy leaves but no effect on the preview. Why is that so? How does it works and does the camera body need contacts to communicate with the scope?

The colours of flowers and birds seen with my eye looks bright and vivid but looks dull on camera. I have the settings on the camera as vivid, appreciate any solutions.

Lastly what do you guys use to stick the programmable chip onto the adapter ring? I have tried epoxy (5 mins type), super glue and contact adhesive but the chip still drops off by a slight tug when trying to uncouple the TC.

:stuck:
Thanks

tbc
 
Hi All,

Need help with adjustment of exposure compensation on D300s. I have tried to shoot 3 shots with +5, 0 & -5 on glossy leaves but no effect on the preview. Why is that so? How does it works and does the camera body need contacts to communicate with the scope?

The colours of flowers and birds seen with my eye looks bright and vivid but looks dull on camera. I have the settings on the camera as vivid, appreciate any solutions.

Lastly what do you guys use to stick the programmable chip onto the adapter ring? I have tried epoxy (5 mins type), super glue and contact adhesive but the chip still drops off by a slight tug when trying to uncouple the TC.

:stuck:
Thanks

tbc

I think you need some sort of polarizing filter to get it crisp. Never tried that on Scopes yet, so need to tinker about how to get it mounted and be able to rotate to get the correct effect. And you loose a stop or two speed.

I use hot glue but I need to heat up the adapter as well before applying the glue so that it will have good fusion with both sides. The Epoxy should do but it is sort of permanent stick. You might have to rough up the adapter side of it though.
 
I think you need some sort of polarizing filter to get it crisp. Never tried that on Scopes yet, so need to tinker about how to get it mounted and be able to rotate to get the correct effect. And you loose a stop or two speed.

There is a thread somewhere on here where I posted a load of images taken with a polarizing filter. I think I used a 48mm polarizer as that size will screw into a 2" scope adapter thread.

Paul.
 
I 'roughed up' the area where the chips go with a small file first, to ensure the glue bonds well with both surfaces,I have used both superglue and epoxy, none of mine come off - but my first attempt did when I positioned the chip by hand,seems i had it a little too far out (nanometer !!), so then i used a template on the rest and all was fine.
 
For attaching chips I use slow cure (30 minutes or longer) epoxy, it tends to be stronger than the 5 minute type. As thornlv says, lightly rough up the bonding areas. I wear rubber gloves, both to keep my skin oils off the bonding surfaces and to keep epoxy off my skin. Clean bonding areas with alcohol, and make sure the proportions of the epoxy are right. I haven't had any problems with chips coming off so far.
 
Thanks everyone for the inputs. Problem solved after roughening the adapter. The 1.4X TC made AF more difficult and under low light impossible to focus. Quite pleased with the AF confirm function.

tbc
 
Hi All again,

Does anyone here use AF confirm chip and still able to use the exposure compensation function on their cameras? Mine couldn't and I want to ensure if this is normal or I have stuck the chip wrong and not making proper contact.

Thanks,

tbc
 
Yes, I have 3 Nikon AF confirm chips. With Nikon D90 and D7000 I can have full metering (spot, centre weighted or matrix) along with focus trap, focus confirm and exposure compensation.
 
Thornlv, how is the D7000 compared to the D90 in trap focus with the scope? I'd imagine all 9 crossed point to work as well as the one in the middle, is that right?
And how is the center point on both cameras compared? the D90 fail a bit when light gets dim or the subject isn't too contrasty with ED80, is the D7000 any better?
 
Not really tried the D7000 with the ED80 much, have been concentrating with my new Sigma 500mm F4.5. However what I can remember is I had to make sure the locating hole on the bayonet adapter was at least 1.4mm deep to get focus trap and it seemed to work as good as the D90 after that with focus trap, I think but am not sure that I used 9 point dynamic focus once and the viewfinder highlighted whatever was in focus with any of the points. What I may find useful is the cameras ability to fine tune AF.

If get chance tommorow I will test the various fous point settings available, that is if we get some sunshine !!
 
Thornlv, when will see some comparisons between the ED80 and the 500mm? :) I'd be really interested in seeing something like that.

When I'm asking about the D7000 vs D90 is not really the dynamic focus. I nearly never use that, even on AF lenses. It's more that the D90 in any other points than the centre doesn't work so well specially with the TC on, I wonder if the D7000 improves anything in that regard. It should since it have more 8 crossed sensors, and any of them is better than the D90 middle sensor.
 
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