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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

How much FOV do you like? (1 Viewer)

Fov

So pushing out beyond 200 meters makes no difference in FOV? It is just under 200 meters that FOV makes a difference?

Dennis, what I said was up to approximately 200 meters, to me the difference of 7.4 VS 8 degrees FOV is insignificant, however I do agree with Henry regarding the apparent FOV, but then all of the 8X42s I have have AFOV of 58 or higher so all is good. I do notice the difference between the SE and EII FOV but then we are talking of 1.3 degrees FOV difference and almost 10 degrees difference of APOV.
P.S. I am going to check out my new EII 10X35 tomorrow with my 10X43 SE.

A.W.
 
Dennis, what I said was up to approximately 200 meters, to me the difference of 7.4 VS 8 degrees FOV is insignificant, however I do agree with Henry regarding the apparent FOV, but then all of the 8X42s I have have AFOV of 58 or higher so all is good. I do notice the difference between the SE and EII FOV but then we are talking of 1.3 degrees FOV difference and almost 10 degrees difference of APOV.
P.S. I am going to check out my new EII 10X35 tomorrow with my 10X43 SE.

A.W.
Definitely a a big difference in the FOV between the SE and the EII. If you like a big FOV the EII is your glass if you don't wear glasses and need more eye relief. One of the biggest out there. Let us know which you prefer between the EII 10x35 or 10x42 SE.
 
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I just think for example the Nikon 8x30 EII's FOV of 462 feet or 8.8 degree's is about the upper limit I can effectively utilize. I think you can have almost to wide of a FOV. 8.8 degree's is almost too much information to take in at one time but you do have a point in following a fast moving bird but wouldn't it take a pretty fast bird to move out of 462 foot FOV field? I guess you could lose them right at the edge.

Dennis

Think about the field of view of your naked eyes. Its massive, something like 190 degrees though big chunks of this are not binocular-vision.

I don't think your own natural-born monster field of view gives you any stress or mental confusion when making use of it. When you put binos up to your eyes you are severely reducing the field of view that your brain has to process and I am sure it can manage OK with 462 feet of the Nikon or 444 ft of an SF 8x.

And since we pay for bins in order to look through them at the world, the bigger the field of view the more value for money you get every time you look through them.

Lee
 
Dennis

And since we pay for bins in order to look through them at the world, the bigger the field of view the more value for money you get every time you look through them.

Lee

Just for a bit of fun I thought I would find out the street prices in the UK for a few 'alpha' binos and calculate their fields of view in terms of area and then work out the cost per unit of area to see which are most price efficient from a fov point of view. Here are the costs in £GBP per square metre:

Nikon EDG 8x42 £0.098 ie almost 10p per square metre
Leica Noctivid 8x42 £0.132 ie just over 13p per square metre
Swarovski EL 8.5x42 £0.131 ie just over 13p per square metre
Zeiss SF 8x42 £0.087 ie almost 9p per square metre

I hearby declare Zeiss and Nikon the joint winners and wonder if the guys at Leica and Swaro discuss pricing :-O

Lee
 
A plausible way to improve FoV could be with an effective 2-3x zoom, offering perhaps 4-5x for larger area surveillance and 8-12x for detailed views.
Afaik, nothing such has been offered, perhaps because it is difficult to do without electronic support. The Sony DEV-50, an all electronic device, came closest iirc, but there has been no follow on.
 
A plausible way to improve FoV could be with an effective 2-3x zoom, offering perhaps 4-5x for larger area surveillance and 8-12x for detailed views.
Afaik, nothing such has been offered, perhaps because it is difficult to do without electronic support. The Sony DEV-50, an all electronic device, came closest iirc, but there has been no follow on.

Getting two optical tubes to zoom in perfect co-ordination, from one control, and focus both tubes in perfect co-ordination while allowing dioptre adjustment, sounds a pretty heavy task in more ways than one.

Lee
 
I do a lot of sea watching from ships and highly recommend a big field of view, you find a lot more. However I would not go below 8 x.
 
A plausible way to improve FoV could be with an effective 2-3x zoom, offering perhaps 4-5x for larger area surveillance and 8-12x for detailed views.
Afaik, nothing such has been offered, perhaps because it is difficult to do without electronic support. The Sony DEV-50, an all electronic device, came closest iirc, but there has been no follow on.

lets face it most binocular users are traditionalists....they want glass, coatings, prisms, and tend to shy away from anything that requires batteries....yea you will find fringe elements that will buy an image stabilized unit....but they are far from the majority and most have a traditional bin as a backup for when the plastic battery operated model fails....:smoke:
 
I do a lot of sea watching from ships and highly recommend a big field of view, you find a lot more. However I would not go below 8 x.
David. I am curious why you would not go below 8x for sea viewing? Many nautically designed binoculars are 7x for stability on a moving ship and at sea.
 
Dennis

Think about the field of view of your naked eyes. Its massive, something like 190 degrees though big chunks of this are not binocular-vision.

I don't think your own natural-born monster field of view gives you any stress or mental confusion when making use of it. When you put binos up to your eyes you are severely reducing the field of view that your brain has to process and I am sure it can manage OK with 462 feet of the Nikon or 444 ft of an SF 8x.

And since we pay for bins in order to look through them at the world, the bigger the field of view the more value for money you get every time you look through them.

Lee
Lee. So the bigger the better the FOV. Why is a binocular with a big FOV and sharp edges expensive? Is it the complexity of the eyepiece design?
 
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lets face it most binocular users are traditionalists....they want glass, coatings, prisms, and tend to shy away from anything that requires batteries....yea you will find fringe elements that will buy an image stabilized unit....but they are far from the majority and most have a traditional bin as a backup for when the plastic battery operated model fails....:smoke:
But if there were a practical digital binocular available with the features Etudiant describes would you use one?
 
Why is a binocular with a big FOV and sharp edges expensive? Is it the complexity of the eyepiece design?

I didn't say anything about binos with big FOV and sharp edges being expensive and I guess you would have to ask: how big a fov and how sharp at the edges?

But for sure getting edge sharpness means more expense and getting a generous eye relief and big field of view at the same time means bigger eyepieces which means more expense too.

Lee
 
Hi,

for me larger true fields are nice, when birding or star gazing. The E2 pretty much nails it with its huge true and apparent field. The visible field curvature at the edges does not disturb me when birding, one can still see movement at the edge and that's what counts. Under the stars a flat field is most welcome though, especially on an unguided mount.

Regarding apparent field, I personally cannot see the field stop in a Nagler with 82 degrees afov without moving my eye. I can barely see it in the E2 or Panoptic EPs with 68 deg afov. So more than 75 deg or so is not needed for me. Why do I own a 9mm ES 100 deg EP - good question, I needed the size, there was a good used offer and I wanted to try it...

Joachim
 
lets face it most binocular users are traditionalists....they want glass, coatings, prisms, and tend to shy away from anything that requires batteries....yea you will find fringe elements that will buy an image stabilized unit....but they are far from the majority and most have a traditional bin as a backup for when the plastic battery operated model fails....:smoke:

My plastic battery powered model is still working fine, had an enjoyable evening looking at the different shades of lunar craters a month back. However I like big fields so have an old 7x35 to provide that. As mentioned you can pick up motion and zero in on it when looking for things.

Peter
 
But if there were a practical digital binocular available with the features Etudiant describes would you use one?

most likely.....every 10/15 years I update my camera....but now with the new phones....well...in the next few years your phone will be you bin also.....as well as your camera
 
most likely.....every 10/15 years I update my camera....but now with the new phones....well...in the next few years your phone will be you bin also.....as well as your camera

And it will probably give you a shave and a shampoo too.

Lee
 
My plastic battery powered model is still working fine, had an enjoyable evening looking at the different shades of lunar craters a month back. However I like big fields so have an old 7x35 to provide that. As mentioned you can pick up motion and zero in on it when looking for things.

Peter
Have you ever seen any motion on the moon? I used to watch for wisps of dust indicating possible volcanic activity.
 
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