Only 1 baffle (2 Viewers)

Musoman

PETE - Nikon/Sony Shooter

• Apr 7, 2011

• #1

I've just stripped down my 120 SW ST and the main tube has the same shape baffle that i remember my 80ED had, kind of castellated and not sealed in place, but movable, but there's only baffle, compared to 2 baffles in the main tube of the 80ED

Is this a mistake, and what effect would this missing baffle have on the IQ of photos ?

I also noticed that inside the focuser, there are very small baffles ( 2 of ) clone versions of the main tube baffle, but incredibly small. The limiting diameter of the these tiny baffles is so small that i wonder if they're actually achieving anything

 

P

Paul Corfield

Well-known member

• Apr 7, 2011

• #2

I took both baffles out of my 80ED and did some testing a while ago. I didn't notice any drop in contrast between having no baffles or two baffles. I've only since put one baffle back in, the one nearest the objective. Maybe I didn't see a difference because I have some baffles in my 2" scope adapter.

Paul.

 

Musoman

PETE - Nikon/Sony Shooter

• Apr 7, 2011

• #3

Good point. Strange that - i wonder if anyone else has removed baffles and checked the IQ

The one baffle in my main tube is somewhat half way along, perhaps a tad nearer the Lens Cell than the focuser

 

FernandoBatista

Well-known member

• Apr 7, 2011

• #4

Musoman said:

i wonder if anyone else has removed baffles and checked the IQ

Click to expand...

I did that on the ED80, and also tested the TL 804 with it's original baffles (only one like yours) against the two more it has now.
There's no difference if you shoot with the right angle of light, that is with the sun behind you or close to it, at least I can't see a difference.
But shoot against sunlight and the difference is very noticeable. For that reason I prefer to keep every mm of internal tube in the angle of view of the sensor hidden behind baffles. Not that I'm shooting against the sun very often ...but we never know.

 

Musoman

PETE - Nikon/Sony Shooter

• Apr 7, 2011

• #5

Ok thanks Paul and Fernando - it doesnt seem like a big deal now.

 

alphan

Well-known member

• Apr 11, 2011

• #6

I think the simplest test is to look through the scope from where the image sensor would be. Looking through the objective lens, we should be seeing only the baffles in between and nothing else, especially the internal wall of the scope tube, focuser tube or extension tube.

Any part of the walls seen will give off some glare though little they may be and will affect the photo, though the extend may depend on situation.

 

Musoman

PETE - Nikon/Sony Shooter

• Apr 11, 2011

• #7

It doesnt seem to make a lot of difference Al, this one baffle only. But then again, i never shoot into the sun, or any angles that are close to straight on. I always try to keep the sun behind me. On a few occasions, like the Slavonian Grebe posted earlier, i was at right angles to the sun, and it didnt seem to pose much problem, but i wouldnt want to shoot at an angle smaller than 90 dgrees to the sun

I have no glare, ( or very little glare ) as the entire scope tube, the dew shield, inside the focuser tube, and the extension tubes, have all been black flocked

 

Last edited: Apr 11, 2011

alphan

Well-known member

• Apr 13, 2011

• #8

Yeah, flocking does help a lot. So much better than flat black paint. I only put additional baffles just before and after the 2"-1.25" adapter as that one cause a lot of glare.

 

Musoman

PETE - Nikon/Sony Shooter

• Apr 13, 2011

• #9

The flocking i did, plus I keep the dew shield cap on, but i have widened the hole in the cap to twice the size, as it was just a bit too restricting as it comes as standard.

This has helped a lot with CA, but hasnt eliminated it, as noted on the pheasant