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Eagles and Snow Monkeys: Japan in the Polar Vortex (25 Dec 2018- 6 Jan 2019) (1 Viewer)

MKinHK

Mike Kilburn
Hong Kong
My wife Carrie and I flew from Hong Kong to Sapporo via Nagoya on Hong Kong Express and Japan Airlines on Christmas Eve, arriving in Sapporo after dark. The only birds I saw that day were five unidentified ducks rocketing past the aircraft at alarmingly close range just as we landed at Nagoya.

A lazy Christmas Day, which included a visit to the beautifully snow-covered Moerenuma Park – a giant landscape-sculpture garden - delivered a grand total of five species. The most abundant were Large-billed Crows, seen both from the hotel (which sits right next to Hokkaido University Botanic Garden), and at least a couple of hundred flying over the park and back into the city to roost as dusk fell. Other birds included four Brown-eared Bulbuls - a rather elongated dark-brown and grey bulbul with a scraggly head feathers, a long tail and a fine range of whiny calls, a solitary Feral Pigeon, a large unidentified raptor among the crows and a hardy Little Grebe on the still-flowing canal along the southwestern corner of Moerenuma Park.

Boxing Day started more promisingly with a walk around the beautifully sunlit Botanic Garden. That was literally “around” as it is closed between December and March and I was reduced to peering through the fence. I started with the Hokkaido endemic subspecies of Red Squirrel – chocolate brown with a white belly and delightful ear tufts – foraging decoratively along snow-covered branches. As I watched it I started to hear birds, picking up a couple of Brown-eared Bulbuls and then three fabulous white-headed caudatus race Long-tailed Tits. These were the first of a mini-wave including a couple of Marsh Tits, four or five Japanese Tits and three handsome chestnut-bellied Varied Tits. Thirty-odd Oriental Greenfinches flew into the park from some trees just to the north, and the list was completed by a Great Spotted Woodpecker, and a dozen Tree Sparrows feeding on something that looked very like yew berries.

The railway journey to from Sapporo to Onuma - to get ourselves in position to go for Steller's Sea Eagles the next day - delivered a pretty good selection of species. The top birds were 11 White-tailed Eagles, most of which were adults, spread over four river mouths, where apparently they gather to scavenge on whatever edible goodies drift downstream. They eagles were almost always attended by a retinue of Black Kites. I also had a flock of over 100 Black Kites above what presumably was a landfill. The other quality birds were four Goosanders, thirty or so Whooper Swans, and a dozen or so Temminck’s Cormorants along the rockier parts of the coast, and thirty-odd Mallards in two different flocks. The only gulls I was able to identify were Slaty-backed Gulls, while a distant flock of 25-odd geese went unidentified. The only other sighting was the large gathering at dusk of several hundred Large-billed Crows on the wires either side of Mori station.

Cheers
Mike
 

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Today was one of the best days of winter birding I’ve ever had. Ranking up alongside seeing multiple Snowy Owls in the Pacific Northwest and my best bird of all time – Reeves’s Pheasants in northwest Guangxi – today’s wonderful close views of 80+ Steller’s and White-tailed Eagles and a host of winter wildfowl at Yakumo was simply spectacular!

Hakodate-based birder Stuart Price and his wife Shigeko had very kindly agreed to take Carrie and I to Yakumo – where what is most likely the best salmon river in southern Hokkaido emerges from the mountains and flows down to the eastern coast. Every year around 80-100 White-tailed and Steller’s Sea Eagles gather here in December to feed on the salmon as they complete their spawning and die off in the higher and shallower streams at the head of the valley. And gather they had! I counted over 60 birds perched in the bare trees on a single snowy slope, and must have seen another 30 birds in the course of a very cold and crisp morning with snow covering the fields and the rivers beginning to freeze.

First contact was with a magnificent adult Steller's Sea Eagle perched in a tree next to a bridge. I've never been so close to any eagle, so to have this monster calmly watching us get out of the car no more than 20 metres away and fire away with the cameras to our hearts' content was something of a shock - especially with so spectacular a bird. Whatever happened thereafter the success of the holiday was assured from that point onward!

Cheers
Mike
 

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The perched Steller’s Sea Eagles were remarkably approachable – particularly if they were on the other side of the river. It was a simultaneously exciting and humbling experience to watch and photograph these magnificent birds from just 20-30 metres, either in wonderful winter sunshine or more atmospherically, as the snow fell, softening the hard outlines of white shoulders and tail, and that almost unbelievable huge orange-yellow bill.

In contrast the adult White-tailed Eagles looked altogether scruffier, with shaggy pale brown feathers on the head and shoulders. With smaller bills and a less distinctive eye they looked a bit like moderately malevolent haystacks with a stubby white tail.

A wide range of ages were on show, with youngsters of both species starting life much darker and becoming progressively paler as they age. White-tailed always looks smaller-billed and generally shorter-tailed than Steller’s.
 

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We saw birds in flight both inland at a spot where some 60 birds were roosting on a wooded hillside some 50 metres from the road, and at the bridge closest to the river mouth, where we had incredibly close views of a white-tailed Eagle flying close over our heads. To be honest eagles in flight was pretty much a hit and miss process for me, but Stuart has been coming here for years and has some absolutely stunning shots on his website.

No more eagles after this - promise!

Cheers
Mike
 

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A brilliant write-up Mike!

I recall our first Steller's near the crane reserve at Tsurui. It was perched on a telegraph pole right next to the road. As we got out of the car to get the camera out of the boot, I was sure it would fly off, but it stayed there and simply glared down at us - it has to be one of the most spectacular birds I've ever seen for sure!

You've got some great shots there too...

Cheers
Stu
 
Great write up so far Mike, Japan is very much on my radar and Stellar's eagle is one of those "before I die" species. The problem is, I'd also like to visit in spring and autumn... Hope you tried for Blakiston's fish owl?!
 
Many thanks for all the kind comments.

For those who do want more eagles Stuart's website can be found here:http://www.hakodatebirding.com

Daniel - I've seen Blakiston's Fish Owl at the well-known Hattaushi Bridge site near Lake Furen on previous trips to Eastern Hokkaido in October and June. I don't think its possible to see everything in a single trip - the bears for example are hibernating by now, although you might get some crossover with the eagles in November, and the breeding species such as Siberian Rubythroat, Japanese Robin and Gray's and Middendorff's Grasshopper Warblers are of course absent in winter.

Stuart - The Reeves's pheasant - I was guiding for a private client who wanted to see pheasants including Lady A's, Elliott's, Temminck's Tragopan and Reeves's. The tricky part was that he was dying of cancer and this was a "dying wish" trip with a very sick but frighteningly determined man. Reeves's was the second one and unfortunately our visit to the high montane reserve (tulsa Forest Farm near Caohai - where Black-necked Crane winters) in Guizhou that was the best known site at the time coincided with a cold snap like the one that hit Japan while I was there, putting snow all over the place and black ice on the roads. After 24 hours of our guide (a professor) refusing to take use - out of an understandable concern for my client's health - we eventually prevailed and, after staying in a mud brick house overnight and eating only potatoes we headed into Tuoda Forest Farm the next morning as the storm lifted.

Once on site the professor brilliantly marshalled the reserve staff and arranged for them to drive the pheasants towards us as we waited inside the treeline near a beautiful clearing with a patch bright green green grass surrounded by snow-covered trees beneath a stunning blue sky. After about twenty minutes three perfect male Reeves's Pheasants - all stunning golden yellow with each feather edged black, and those outrageous five foot long banded tails trailing behind - walked slowly into the clearing and wandered around for ten minutes or so before melting back into the forest. It was utterly mind blowing! Sadly no pix, but it will be hard for anything to challenge that as a total birding experience!

Anyway - back to Japan, and time for a little expectation management. The climax came first on this trip so, while the rest was also pretty good, the eagles were unquestionably the highlight.

Other birds on the upper reaches of the river included a family party of six Whooper Swans of which four were full-grown but still grey-plumaged juveniles, a couple of Brown Dippers, and a range of ducks including Chinese Spotbill, Mallard, Goldeneye and Goosander. We had no luck looking for Solitary Snipe, although Stuart has occasionally seen them here in the past. interestingly the eagles completely ignored the ducks here, and Stuart believes that this is because the Salmon provide a much easier source of food that requires less effort to catch.

Our final two stops were at the mouth of the river where, in addition to another 20 or so eagles, all but four of which were White-tailed Eagles , we also added a drake Smew, a couple of Glaucous Gulls among the Slaty-backed Gulls, a skinny Pelagic Cormorant, two more Whooper Swans, and a Black-necked Grebe among some 20 Greater Scaup in the harbour.

As the day faded we went looking for the two Solitary Snipe Stuart found that morning on the lakeshore at Onuma. As we got to the spot we flushed one that flew a short distance and dropped down just out of view. In trying to see it I flushed again. Again it gave brief flight views and we headed home, happy to have clinched a very major target.

Cheers
Mike
 

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Stuart - The Reeves's pheasant - I was guiding for a private client who wanted to see pheasants including Lady A's, Elliott's, Temminck's Tragopan and Reeves's. The tricky part was that he was dying of cancer and this was a "dying wish" trip with a very sick but frighteningly determined man. Reeves's was the second one and unfortunately our visit to the high montane reserve (tulsa Forest Farm near Caohai - where Black-necked Crane winters) in Guizhou that was the best known site at the time coincided with a cold snap like the one that hit Japan while I was there, putting snow all over the place and black ice on the roads. After 24 hours of our guide (a professor) refusing to take use - out of an understandable concern for my client's health - we eventually prevailed and, after staying in a mud brick house overnight and eating only potatoes we headed into Tuoda Forest Farm the next morning as the storm lifted.

Once on site the professor brilliantly marshalled the reserve staff and arranged for them to drive the pheasants towards us as we waited inside the treeline near a beautiful clearing with a patch bright green green grass surrounded by snow-covered trees beneath a stunning blue sky. After about twenty minutes three perfect male Reeves's Pheasants - all stunning golden yellow with each feather edged black, and those outrageous five foot long banded tails trailing behind - walked slowly into the clearing and wandered around for ten minutes or so before melting back into the forest. It was utterly mind blowing! Sadly no pix, but it will be hard for anything to challenge that as a total birding experience!

Many thanks for the explanation Mike, that's a fascinating story and I can completely understand why it has proved so memorable.
 
Thanks Stuart - that whole trip was a life-changing experience!

Next morning I headed back to the same spot with the aim of photographing the Solitary Snipe. The bird flew up from almost the same spot and again landed not far away. I sneaked up and much to my delight I found it hunched in silhouette in a boggy patch where a stream still flowed under the snow. To my greater amazement I fired off a shot that was more or less sharp, but when I blew it up my hopes turned to ashes as the unmistakable barring on the nape conclusively identified it - as a Eurasian Woodcock emerged on the screen!

Despite this disappointment it was a beautiful morning as the sun rose across the frozen lake and completely snow-covered forest. Right by the roadside a White-backed Woodpecker systematically dismantled a tree under a light shower of show, which its hammering knocked off the branches above. There were also three other woodpecker species - Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Great Spotted Woodpecker and a couple of Grey-headed Woodpeckers, plus a couple of the white-bellied Hokkaido race of Eurasian Nuthatch and a Treecreeper. Other forest birds included two Hawfinches, Oriental Greenfinch Japanese, Coal, Varied and Willow Tit, plus a bunch of caudatus Long-tailed Tits. I also found a single female Yellow-throated Bunting amongst them.

A couple of Black Kites paved the way for a superb adult White tailed Eagle hunched on a branch right by the lake, which would have been a major jaw dropper had it not been for yesterday’s eagle overload. A little further down the road I started to hear bugling and shortly thereafter six Whooper Swans flew across the ice and landed on a small stretch of open water – it doesn’t get more wintry than that!

There is one other patch of open water where hot water from a spring enters the lake. This was rather less of a wilderness experience as a hundred-odd Mallard and twenty Whooper Swans were gathered to beg for bread, although another twenty coasting in against a backdrop of snow-dusted trees was pretty cool. In amongst them were a Chinese Spotbill, a Little Grebe, a Coot, two female Goldeneyes and nine Smew, four of which were splendid black and white drakes. Another small pond just behind the park visitor also held a female Northern Pintail and a gang of Tree Sparrows huddled in a hedge to get out of the wind.
 

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As we arrived in Hakodate just thirty minutes south on the train a full-on blizzard started which let up for a long enough the next morning to get me out the door and down to Cape Tachimachi. Stuart had kindly suggested where I look, but was far too wise to venture forth on such a wintry day. He wasn't wrong!

Getting out about 500 metres short as the road was blocked, I forced my way through two feet of snow only to see no birds except a Japanese Cormorant before the next blizzard loomed large and dark over the sea threatening to engulf me within minutes. I waded back though the snow and thankfully started seeing birds close in near Yachigashira Harbour, despite the blizzard.

I started off with twenty-odd Slaty-backed Gulls in variously characteristically grumpy poses- perhaps not surprisingly given the snow lying several inches thick on the sea wall! plus a couple of Black-tailed Gulls swiftly followed by eight flyby Red-breasted Mergansers, a pair of Harlequins drifting serenely along outside the breakwater, and ten Black Brants who drifted off before I could get close. Continuing the theme of the week I finished off with another adult White-tailed Eagle drifting over through the snow. I was Also impressed by the hardiness of a Black-backed Wagtail feeding on the exposed rocks at the edge of the breakwater.

A snowy walk round the beautiful historical suburb of Motomachi with Carrie during a (partial) lull in the blizzard delivered a couple of Brown-eared Bulbuls, a few Tree Sparrows, a Wren and a Eurasian Sparrowhawk that went through at high speed.
 

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Despite this disappointment it was a beautiful morning as the sun rose across the frozen lake and completely snow-covered forest. Right by the roadside a White-backed Woodpecker systematically dismantled a tree under a light shower of show, which its hammering knocked off the branches above. There were also three other woodpecker species - Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Great Spotted Woodpecker and a couple of Grey-headed Woodpeckers, plus a couple of the white-bellied Hokkaido race of Eurasian Nuthatch and a Treecreeper. Other forest birds included two Hawfinches, Oriental Greenfinch Japanese, Coal, Varied and Willow Tit, plus a bunch of caudatus Long-tailed Tits.

Frozen lake, snow, White-backed Woodpecker, Grey-headed, etc - could almost be my feeding station this morning here in Lithuania :)

But a magical trip you've had out there, good one.
 
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