A few years ago, during the ferry crossing from North to South Islands, New Zealand, whilst gazing abstractedly at the heaving main from the window I suddenly became aware of a very large white bird gliding silently past. Nothing prepares you for the sheer power and size of one of the great albatrosses as it roams effortlessly over the waves. At first I panicked and immediately forgot all I had read about albatross identification, but then contented myself with just watching this master of the oceans. At the opposite end of the scale, this year in Costa Rica I was again thrown into confusion by a tiny mite that thrummed past my ear. Despite having absorbed the contents of the field-guides I forgot all I had read on hummingbird identification! Other members of my (non-birdwatching) group gasped, "Hummingbird," "Bee," or, blissfully unaware, "What are the large black birds circling up there?" I contented myself with just admiring the seamless aerobatics of another master of the air.
I have just returned from the long-awaited vacation to Costa Rica. As previously indicated it was not a bird-watching holiday, catering for the more mature wanderers, but coach excursions were made on most days (although they tended to arrive at their destinations in the mid-morning or even later). I also used to birdwatch in the early mornings and late afternoons in the grounds of the various hotels in which we stayed (Hotel Villa Tournon, San José - clean, comfortable, small gardens with good birds; Villa Lapas Rainforest Resort, near Tárcoles -basic accomodation, but magnificent birding grounds; Tilajari Hotel Resort, near Muelle de San Carlos - the best accomodation, grounds more manicured with less natural vegetation, but had bird feeders). I managed to record nearly 200 species (as well as some mystery birds, like the first hummingbird and a dark antbird (?) with a white eyebrow). Many highlights included coming across an army ant column with its attendant birds in RB Carara, cruises on the Río Tárcoles and the Río Frío, and mixed flocks met with at Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park and at the La Paz Waterfall Gardens. I was especially impressed by the variety of North American migrants, many now in breeding plumage. The only slight disappointment was PN Manuel Antonio, a noisy crowded beach resort with sloths and pesky monkeys, and I also regretted not being able to get to Sendero Bogarin, near La Fortuna (as recommended by Patrick).
The weather was kind (it rained only during the night, when we were safely tucked up in bed, and for half an hour on one afternoon) and we were not troubled by insects; the people were very friendly (even Loco Luiz and Machete Mike, two local guides at Tilajari), the food good (especially the fruits), and I even developed a taste for coffee.
Of mammals we saw Howler and Capuchin Monkeys, peccaries, Coati, Agouti, a jungle rabbit (at the Bosque de Don Pedro, one of two private rain-forest reserves close to the Tilajari), Ghost and White-lined Bats, and the 2-toed and 3-toed sloths (as well as the 5-toed sloths - lazy or out of work teenagers!!); we were also shown a few poisonous snakes ("These are young, their bites are not yet deadly") and some showy poison-dart frogs.
On the reverse side of the coin, the traffic in and around San José was appalling! Our tour guide said the traffic jams were caused by repairs at the Bridge of Death (at least, I think that's what he called it!), and the coach only suffered in one incident (caused by a truck ploughing forwards at a left-hand turn). I am glad we were only based in the capital at the very beginning and very end of the holiday.
A thoroughly recommendable and enjoyable destination, especially the delightful and teeming rainforests, of which the Ticos are justly proud, and I can scarcely wait to visit again (but next time with other birdwatchers).
