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What am I doing wrong? (1 Viewer)

Shooting in RAW gives you the least sharpness because it has no in-camera sharpening like jpgs do. RAW images are then expected to be sharpened in software.

Hi Harold,

I know what you're getting at, but I don't necessarily agree with that - or rather, I wouldn't want Terry to get the impression that the solution to his problem is all in PP (I know you aren't saying that, Harold).

I can produce sharp images from RAW files without applying any PP sharpening.

This picture for example, is a RAW file which has simply been cropped and resized to 800px in Irfanview - no sharpening at all applied (and the crop isn't far off "actual pixels").

It's true that downsizing an image will increase perceived sharpness to an extent, but as I say this isn't that far off a 100% crop, and it is "out of the camera" sharp (note that there's a 1.4x TC in there, and it's wide open at f/5.6).

But it started from "sharp", and to an extent that's the point - as others have said, PP can't do much for a picture that isn't inherently sharp, so shooting (expecially handholding) technique is important, as is shutter speed and a general understanding of how cameras and lenses work.

If this was a "proper" picture rather than something I'm just using as an example, I'd almost certainly run it through Neatimage - not necessarily to deal with noise (not really a problem here) but because it does a great job of blurring the background - an instant "depth of field" effect.

Terry, it should be relatively easy to get sharp handheld images from a 300mm lens, but shutter speed and technique are everything (my picture is at a handheld actual 560mm - 896mm if you take "crop factor" seriously - coming from a 400mm lens + 1.4x converter: but the lens has stabilisation, which is a Godsend. Even so, it can't make up for bad technique at low shutter speeds).

Unfortunately I can't see the EXIF in any of your images (you're using "save for web" I guess) which makes it very hard to troubleshoot what's going on.

Now... About your lens. Is it the Nikon 300mm f/4 prime? If so (and I reckon it is), it's a very sharp lens indeed - one I'd have ended up with if I'd stayed with Nikon - and the D50 is a nice little camera. So the hardware is unlikely to be the problem...
 

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Maybe the first thing you could do is place your camera and lens on a beanbag, or similar firm support, and shoot some distant targets at various apertures. That should convince you that your lens is sharp.

I took a look at your pictures, though sadly there is no shooting data. I noticed some haloing on some, and this is an artifact of sharpening. I would call it oversharpening, though it is often seen. Try reducing the radius.

I agree that the images are somewhat soft. They say that for hand held shooting, 1/(focal length of lens) is the lowest speed you should use, and for 1 1.5x crop DSLR that becomes 1(focal length of lens x 1.5). Personally I would say far higher shutter speeds are needed. Alternatively invest in a tripod and decent head. Sadly Nikon have no 300mm F4 VR lens to match the Canon offering.

I agree with others, that you should shoot RAW, and experiment with Aperture Priority and Manual metering modes. I use Aperture Priority most of the time, and sometimes dial in compensation.

If it is any consolation about 10 years ago I bought a Nikon 200mm F4 AIS lens and nearly sent it back as I could no get one single sharp image from it. I eventually worked out that vibrations were the killer, and it was in reality very sharp. It takes time to 'understand' a lens.
 
Terry, the photos I posted on this thread -

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=82246

- were taken with a Canon EOS300D and a 400mm ef 5.6 lens (not IS). I am very much a beginner, I got the camera less than a year ago, and simply don't have the time and inclination (as yet) to go into any great detailed exploration of the craft of photography, I just enjoy being able to take a pictoral record of some of my sightings.

Anyway, my point is that these pics were taken with what sounds like a similar camera to yours; I have not edited in any way, just cropped the pics to be able to post them here (and to make more aesthetically pleasing), and only ever hand-hold the camera. I let the camera do its own thing, and have never knowingly made or adjusted any settings! - EXCEPT for two things - 1. I had to re-set the auto focus point, as it was set on the extreme right-hand side of the image so unless a bird was filling pretty much the whole screen I'd be focusing on a bit of background, and 2. I didn't cotton on for some time that there's a range setting on the lens, so when you get close to a bird you flip the switch otherwise the auto-focus is slow or doesn't work at all. Once I got sorted with these two probably laughable basics, I feel quite happy with the pics I've been taking. Mind you, I've not posted the cr@p ones here, and there are several!

Hope this helps in some way.
 
have never knowingly made or adjusted any settings! - EXCEPT for two things -

1. I had to re-set the auto focus point, as it was set on the extreme right-hand side of the image so unless a bird was filling pretty much the whole screen I'd be focusing on a bit of background, and

2. I didn't cotton on for some time that there's a range setting on the lens, so when you get close to a bird you flip the switch otherwise the auto-focus is slow or doesn't work at all.

What an excellent thread. I am going to print it out tomorrow and highlight the relevant points in each post so that I don't miss any.

The points above may be laughably basic but I am not sure to what you are referring to. Could you expand please MSA

John
 
What an excellent thread. I am going to print it out tomorrow and highlight the relevant points in each post so that I don't miss any.

The points above may be laughably basic but I am not sure to what you are referring to. Could you expand please MSA

John

1: dslrs have multiple focus points (canon 300 had 9, 1DsII has 45, so there's quite a range in number), which can be used as a group, with the camera choosing automatically, or can be selected to use just one specified point (or with some cameras eg 1DsII, a small group). A lot of birders use the central AF point - which tends to be the most sensitive - but this will mean recomposing while keeping the focus locked if your subject isnt central in the frame.
2 some lenses have a switch which limits the range over which the lens will try for focus, so if your subject is distant, you can switch the lens to ignore the close range. This prevents the lens racking focus from its closest range to infinity as it tries to lock on.
 
Thanks Gordon, it all makes sense . I have a 400D with 9 focal points. I will see how I can select the central one.

Not sure if my lens has such a switch. Ihave no manual with it. Will check it out tomorrow
 
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