• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Autofocus fail for distant subjects. 7D2+5D3 (1 Viewer)

I just wish that the photographer would include the distance as well as all the other info when posting pics as examples. I admit to being a lover of zoom lenses, right back to my first Sony FD (floppy disc) 10x zoom camera. I never seem to get the defined feather detail .....................unless the bird is within 10 yards or less.

Den
 
Last edited:
I am grateful for anyone to share their knowhow and experience with distant subjects. I know for sure at where I am shooting, I won't be getting sharp and fine feather detail images. However when I am in a hide shooting birds at about 4 to 8 meters and in reasonably good light I get decent results.
Browsing the many images on the net I am envious of guys who capture great BIF images with great detail and sharpness and I often wonder how far their subjects were.
I don't know about your Nikon gear so I can't comment. But I wouldn't be surprised if other brand cameras+lenses would face the same limitations. To resolve fine detail at long distances would require a very large diameter objective lens (think astronomical telescopes).

You have some VERY nice glass there but, unfortunately, distance is the enemy of IQ when birding. Even though I use the longest lens Canon currently make I try to stay as close as possible to minimum focus distance (6 meters) as possible when photographing small, perched, birds. For larger species I will reach out more especially if they are in flight. If the light is good decent results can be had out to 50 yards or so, the evening "Glow" may add a little to this - but that is with a Canon 800mm.

The wonderful shots that you see are the result of a lot of failures, lots of experience and a lot of creeping to get that little closer - not to mention good post processing. Don't get me wrong I have had adequately sharpish shots at longer rangers but the are rare to say the least!
 
If the focus point moves even a fraction from the subject the 7dii focus is so rapid that it will grab the more interesting background behind the subject. I’ve had the same problem for years and the fault doesn’t lie with the autofocus, but with the accuracy of the pair of hands that is tracking the subject.

I’m once more in Spain in the Tarifa area for the autumn migration. Often the birds are distant, but often they are very close indeed. Against the sky it is fine, but against a hillside it’s a nightmare, because no matter how hard you try the wind will cause the bird to deviate or the momentum of the lens will carry it just that fraction off target to allow the lens to refocus. In previous years I would pat myself on the back if I got a handful of focussed shots of, for example, a booted eagle flying past into the wind at a range of 50m against a hillside a hundred metres behind it.

This year I have found a solution. I use a sigma 150-600 sport and the sigma dock allows for customisation of focus settings. Before I had C1 set to 2.8 to 20m for the likes of close passerines and C2 set to 10m to infinity for fliers and distant stuff. A couple of months ago with this trip in mind I had a brainwave and reset my C2 to limit it to about 120m maximum. This also has the advantage of stopping me getting carried away and photographing approaching raptors at too great a distance. It has worked a treat. Where before I was hitting focus on one in ten or less, today I was tracking honey buzzards, eagles, kites and Egyptian vultures against a hillside and was failing to focus on maybe one in ten. The vast majority were spot on or almost so. If the wind buffeted the bird I might miss, but a pump with the thumb on the focus button found it again.

If I really need to focus on something over 120m, then I just set the custom switch on the lens to ‘Off’.

It’s been a revelation on this trip.

Now that I'm back home and I've seen the results on my computer I might have been slightly over the top with my estimate of keepers over missed shots, but not by much. It's an order of magnitude or more better than the old infinity setting I'd been using on earlier trips. I've got dozens of shots like this of honey buzzards, booted eagles, black kites, short-toed eagles, Egyptian vultures, griffon vultues and even a few sparrowhawks from the trip.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9429-fbook.jpg
    IMG_9429-fbook.jpg
    99.9 KB · Views: 86
I don't know about your Nikon gear so I can't comment. But I wouldn't be surprised if other brand cameras+lenses would face the same limitations. To resolve fine detail at long distances would require a very large diameter objective lens (think astronomical telescopes).

I've discussed long distances elsewhere. Digiscoper Neil Fifer gave the advice to shoot birds rather 30m than 100m away. Danny Young / nzmacro, who focuses his FD 500mm or FD 800mm manually via Nex-7, wrote: "I would never use anything at a 150 meters, not even the 800 F/5.6L".

For close birds, say 7m away, feather detail isn't hard to get. A bridge camera like the Canon SX50 can do it for stationary birds. The SX50 is still an option for 100-150m distances - until the birds take off. With 2-3 frames per second or speeds below 1/1000 sec it is hopeless to shoot raptor action.

I am interested in bird behaviour. Feeding goldcrests can eat 8-12 springtails per second. Sometimes we need a fast camera! Feather detail is not my goal, if I shoot raptors in a distance, but IQ is important. It would be nice to have a 500mm prime and your reach of 1120mm equivalent (vs my 800mm).

Fortunately I have an upgrade path to 2295mm, if I win Euro 1000 in a lottery. o:D
 
Now that I'm back home and I've seen the results on my computer I might have been slightly over the top with my estimate of keepers over missed shots, but not by much. It's an order of magnitude or more better than the old infinity setting I'd been using on earlier trips. I've got dozens of shots like this of honey buzzards, booted eagles, black kites, short-toed eagles, Egyptian vultures, griffon vultues and even a few sparrowhawks from the trip.

That's a great shot and what I am trying to achieve. If only I could also limit the focus distance on my lenses like yours. Thanks for sharing.
 
I've discussed long distances elsewhere. Digiscoper Neil Fifer gave the advice to shoot birds rather 30m than 100m away. Danny Young / nzmacro, who focuses his FD 500mm or FD 800mm manually via Nex-7, wrote: "I would never use anything at a 150 meters, not even the 800 F/5.6L".

For close birds, say 7m away, feather detail isn't hard to get. A bridge camera like the Canon SX50 can do it for stationary birds. The SX50 is still an option for 100-150m distances - until the birds take off. With 2-3 frames per second or speeds below 1/1000 sec it is hopeless to shoot raptor action.

I am interested in bird behaviour. Feeding goldcrests can eat 8-12 springtails per second. Sometimes we need a fast camera! Feather detail is not my goal, if I shoot raptors in a distance, but IQ is important. It would be nice to have a 500mm prime and your reach of 1120mm equivalent (vs my 800mm).

Fortunately I have an upgrade path to 2295mm, if I win Euro 1000 in a lottery. o:D


Thanks for the links...interesting read. Best of luck with the lottery!
 
Whilst on this subject. My Mk2 won't shoot when the target isn't in focus (eg a distant dot). Seem to recall a setting for this but can't find it anywhere! It almost cost me a distant Cattle Egret a couple of weeks ago. Anyone know how to disable this feature?

Cheers
Dave
 
Whilst on this subject. My Mk2 won't shoot when the target isn't in focus (eg a distant dot). Seem to recall a setting for this but can't find it anywhere! It almost cost me a distant Cattle Egret a couple of weeks ago. Anyone know how to disable this feature?

Cheers
Dave

Interesting - I had the same problem two weeks ago whilst using my 1D Mk III on Tour of Britain cycle riders. I was in AIServo mode, close to their tracks, and most of my shots were fine, but once or twice, the camera refused to shoot, despite my holding my finger down. OK, I guess it stopped me shooting featureless sky, but I'd prefer that to be my decision. (I was using Canon's EF 85 F/1.4L IS - the latest lens I have.)
 
Thought that only I had a problem with the 7Dii focusing so I'm glad I found this thread! Some interesting suggestions which I'll try over Xmas.

I am a birder with a camera. As such, I want record shots and not award winners. I also want a camera and lens that don't weigh me down when I'm bush bashing. The 7Dii and 300mm f4 are perfect. Except when I want record shots of distant birds. I tried to photograph a distant, high up harrier this autumn but the camera would not focus. I switched to manual and this worked...

If I'm photographing a gull on the deck amongst other gulls, often the camera will focus behind the target bird too.

Cheers,

Andy.
 
Last edited:
I am suprised that no one has mentioned AF release prioriy. Re the Camera not firing because it does not achieve focus this can be changed in the menu settings via the AF release priority setting:-
You have a choice between 'RELEASE' 'FOCUS' (and a 'MID POINT' between the two)

If you have 'FOCUS' set then the shutter will not fire unless perfect focus is achieved.

If you have 'RELEASE' set then the shutter will fire even when perfect focus is not achieved (it may or may not be in focus).

Further more in AI Servo mode you can have one priority for the first shot of a burst and a different priority for the second and subsequent shots.

I suspect a lot of folk who have this problem have FOCUS set as there release priority.
 
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top