• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Sky-Watcher Pro ED 80 Doublet w/micro 4/3 camera - need a little advice, please (1 Viewer)

ZDHart

Well-known member
United States
I've been a photographer for decades, using m4/3 cameras for about 4 years now. I'm beginning to try bird photography and have become dissatisfied with my 100-300 Pany for getting close enough to birds.

I find that I need a lot more than 600mm equivalent focal length for this.

So, after doing a lot of reading, I think I'm ready to take the plunge with my first telescope! Narrowed to what seems to be a popular choice here, the Sky-Watcher Pro ED 80 Doublet telescope.

I have a few questions, if someone might be able to help with that.

It appears that a dovetailed shaped baseplate is supplied with the scope (attached to the tube rings). What part/parts do I need to order to adapt that baseplate to a photo tripod head? The head that I would like to use is the Manfrotto 701HDV - a fluid head commonly used for video.

http://www.manfrotto.com/pro-fluid-video-mini-head

How would I attach the base plate of the SW 80 to the Manfrotto baseplate?

Also, I know that I will need a micro 4/3 T-ring adaptor. Will I also need to buy what is referred to as a T-adaptor? Which one should I get?

Lastly, I understand that I should add about 80mm of extension to the kit to enable closer focusing - what do I need to specify regarding the extension tube so as to fit the various adaptors of this set up?

Many of you have been a great help in my finding a relatively cost effective means to reach about 1200mm of effective focal length for bird photography and I really appreciate that! In this case, I'm very thankful for the m4/3 crop factor!

Any thing else I need besides my cameras and the tripod itself to use the telescope for birding? I've been considering trading my E-M5 for an E-M1 and this birding venture may be just the push I need to do that. I love the VF-4 on my E-P5 and having that EVF in the EM-1 would be wonderful.
 
Last edited:
Have a look at the one piece camera adapter here. I think this is the one for your camera http://www.cncsupplyinc.com/index.htm?true2.htm This type saves having to use a two piece one such as a T-ring plus 2" adapter. The screws on the T-ring come loose from time to time. The one piece design is safer and also has a bigger hole to let in more light.

The dovetail plate attached to the rings on the scope should have a couple of threaded holes to fit standard tripod threads. That's all I use on my scope but others have adapted it other ways. I still use the dovetail bar but removed it from the rings and fixed it direct to the scope which involves drilling a couple of new holes in the scope body.

The 2" dia - 80mm extension tube will be something like this one. http://agenaastro.com/blue-fireball-2-eyepiece-extension-tube-80mm-3-15-extension.html

Paul.
 
Hi,

Welcome to the forum.

Filling in (using EM-5 myself)

Have a look at the one piece camera adapter here. I think this is the one for your camera http://www.cncsupplyinc.com/index.htm?true2.htm This type saves having to use a two piece one such as a T-ring plus 2" adapter. The screws on the T-ring come loose from time to time. The one piece design is safer and also has a bigger hole to let in more light.
Yes that is the correct one.

Regarding how to attach the tube to the sliding plate - you could do as Paul suggests.

Or you could drill extra holes through the Manfrotto sliding plate. The scope tube comes with two rings with female threads (standard M6 if I remember), position the rings in order to achieve balance.

If the doveplate that comes with the scope fits in the Manfrotto head, the issue is more or less solved. You should however add pins through the dovetail as a security measure, to prevent the scope sliding and dropping it, should the head jaws not be tightened enough.

/Tord
 
Hi and welcome to the club. If you don't mind manual focus, the SW80ED makes a great lens with a lot of reach.

Paul suggest a correct way to attach the Manfrotto plate but you are still stuck with the heavy SkyWatcher tube rings. Why don't you make your own ? See the Astroscope + DSLR = Setups! thread # 337, you only have to adapt it to your Manfrotto plate instead of the Arca-Swiss. It is small, solid, light weight and cheap. This will work as long as you have 2 screw holes on the Manfrotto plate.
http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=194800

The 701HDV is a nice head. Its only drawback is that you cannot move the plate in the head to balance the scope assembly, which may be needed if you use TNs, barlows or different tube extensions or cameras. I use a gimbal and a long plate to allow perfect balancing for each situation. The Manfrotto head, being spring loaded, will tolerate some imbalance, but there is a limit.

You may also want to revert the focusing knob to have the fine focus knob on the left hand side. Same thread, post # 366.

The EM-1 is a nice camera to use with your scope and you are right about the viewfinder: it is very nice. Read all about its use with astro scopes in this thread:
http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=245710

Regards
Jules
 
Thank you for the welcome and for the helpful info!

It's good to know that initially I can just screw the standard tripod plate mounting bolt on the Manfrotto up into the base plate on the SW80. And then take some time to pursue lighter weight mounting options. I'm interested in bolting a light weight plate directly into the tube - once I decide to keep the scope and if I can get comfortable with the procedure.

Just to confirm what I need to order to mount my m4/3 cameras, this will do it, correct?

• SW80 Pro ED APO $650

• T-Minus Ultrawide Adaptor T2M43 $89 (mounts to m4/3 camera body)
http://www.cncsupplyinc.com/index.htm?true2.htm

• Clear Filter T2FLT $12.95 (mounts inside adaptor to keep dust from sensor)
http://www.cncsupplyinc.com/index.htm?true2.htm

• Blue Fireball 2 Eyepiece Extension tube 80mm (replaces the 2" dialectic diagonal unit/eyepieces and connects the scope to the T-minus adaptor)
http://agenaastro.com/blue-fireball-2-eyepiece-extension-tube-80mm-3-15-extension.html

Cleared for take-off? o:)
 
One more thought... do you guys also use your telescopes for star gazing? Is the Sky-Watcher Pro 80 ED APO a great choice for that and is it fairly quick and simple to convert the scope from photography to star gazing and back again? Or does it take such time and effort so as to not want to do that?
 
Everything you need to order is correct.

It takes just seconds to switch between photography and star gazing. The scope should come with a 2" to 1.25" adapter so that you can use standard 1.25" eyepieces. The adapter will just go in the back of the 80mm extension tube. Or take the tube off and use the erecting mirror.

Paul.
 
A lot of astronomers don't bother with an erecting prism because they don't mind that the planets/stars are reversed. The easiest way on the scope is to have the 1.25" eyepiece adapter with an eyepiece already in it. Then just take the camera out of the the 80mm extension, put the eyepiece adapter straight in and you are good to go. The 80mm of extension should allow for focus with an eyepiece as well as the camera.

Paul.
 
Does anyone use a clear filter ? I see that as a useless additional glass element that will steal a tiny bit of precious light, take away some sharpness and add distortion. Do we really need that ?
I don't think a clear filter is a necessity. I have so far not experienced any dust on my Olympus camera sensors, not even after two days use with the scope in really dusty conditions. The scope, on the other hand, had quite a lot of dust...
 
I don't think a clear filter is a necessity. I have so far not experienced any dust on my Olympus camera sensors, not even after two days use with the scope in really dusty conditions. The scope, on the other hand, had quite a lot of dust...

agree...

have used scopes for about 5-6 years know I think - first with the Olympus E-3 for 3-4 years and now the E-M5. And I have changed from scope to lens, lens to scope more times than I can remember - dropped the E-3 three times, one on solid rock from a meter (no lens on since the adapter was loose and it slided off)

A few months ago I took several images at the sky at high f-stop to look for dust for the first time. Found 1 or two I think. after 6 years of use, I think one can say the dust removal technique that Oly uses is remarkable :). It really should be mentioned a lot more...
 
Not such a bad idea, actually. I remember once having collected a bit of dust on the sensor after pointing the scope up high to track a buzzard. Something had collected inside the tube and just fell down. Also, considering the fact that mFT sensors are always exposed, even when you change lenses, I would think the danger would be even greater.
 
All good stuff. Thank you.

One other question... do any of you guys use a super zoom camera like the Canon SX50 HS for birding? If so, any thoughts on that camera for capturing images of birds in the yard?
 
Warning! This thread is more than 10 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top