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Tripod and head needed

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Old Tuesday 28th April 2020, 21:02   #26
jring
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Quote:
Originally Posted by welsh_kite View Post
Hi,

good price - 100 quid off list for a demo unit. The 190 is the lighter of the two staple Manfrotto birding tripods (the other is the 055) and should be fine for a 65mm.

So if you want to go new inside your budget, that combo is going to work well - mulepack still recommended...

Joachim
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Old Wednesday 29th April 2020, 12:10   #27
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That's a pretty nice looking rig, especially for a larger scope.

An ATS 65 is a compact scope that's pretty light, maybe a bit too much of a head?

I've got a 128RC w/190 Manfrotto nowadays, I like it pretty well for the big scopes, but if I am using binoculars or a 60mm scope I'm finding myself wishing for something smaller and lighter than even that.

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Old Wednesday 29th April 2020, 14:02   #28
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What about the Gitzo they have. Does that suit youre needs?

https://www.wexphotovideo.com/used-t...facturer=Gitzo
I thought of the Gitzo one time or another and just decided for me to keep my Monfrotto 701HD. The price of the Gitzo is high but the 'locking mechanism' to much easier as you have a 'wheel' instead of clips etc.... Much better product but don't want to spend the cash ...for me...

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Old Thursday 30th April 2020, 09:39   #29
jring
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Originally Posted by slingworks View Post
That's a pretty nice looking rig, especially for a larger scope.

An ATS 65 is a compact scope that's pretty light, maybe a bit too much of a head?

I've got a 128RC w/190 Manfrotto nowadays, I like it pretty well for the big scopes, but if I am using binoculars or a 60mm scope I'm finding myself wishing for something smaller and lighter than even that.
Hi,

well, the 500AH is actually a little bit lighter than the 128RC - looks can be misleading.

And it is clearly a superior head with the long plate for good balance and the counterbalance system which allows to keep the elevation friction low even when the scope is pointing up or down.

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Old Thursday 30th April 2020, 13:02   #30
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I'd agree with others that for the budget it's worth having a look at the Manfrotto 055 legs (there have been many variants over the years) with either a 128 or 501 head. My Swaro scope sits on a 501 very happily, before that it was on a 128 until this was lent to a friend (I might need to buy another as it is a classic and I do miss using it).

With regards to rotation on a QR plate, I tend to put an elastic band around the foot before attaching the plate. This has been enough to increase the grip and stop it rotating.
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Old Thursday 30th April 2020, 13:05   #31
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With regards to rotation on a QR plate, I tend to put an elastic band around the foot before attaching the plate. This has been enough to increase the grip and stop it rotating.
So you wrap a standard band around the screw? in
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Old Thursday 30th April 2020, 18:58   #32
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So you wrap a standard band around the screw? in
No. I wrap a standard flat elastic band around the foot of the scope/lens ensuring that it does not cover the threaded hole (sometimes I'll put bands behind and in front of the hole). I then attach the plate so the band is between the flat of the plate and the flat of the foot. The band squashes down so much that you do not notice it being there if you cut the rest of it off but the part between the foot and plate seem to keep it in place.

When I got a lens I had issues with it constantly working loose on the plate, I was having to tighten it every few days. I tried two elastic bands and since then I've not had to tighten the plate.

That said if there are two holes definitely put a screw in each.
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Old Thursday 30th April 2020, 19:59   #33
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No. I wrap a standard flat elastic band around the foot of the scope/lens ensuring that it does not cover the threaded hole (sometimes I'll put bands behind and in front of the hole). I then attach the plate so the band is between the flat of the plate and the flat of the foot. The band squashes down so much that you do not notice it being there if you cut the rest of it off but the part between the foot and plate seem to keep it in place.

When I got a lens I had issues with it constantly working loose on the plate, I was having to tighten it every few days. I tried two elastic bands and since then I've not had to tighten the plate.

That said if there are two holes definitely put a screw in each.

What a brilliant idea and so 'cheap'!!!!!!! .... that issue is one that just hasn't been figured out by the scope folks....my scope always does that too simply because you barely have any 'give' with the screw so you can never tighten it up. The rubber bank has enough 'give' to provide more of a 'tightening' of the screw. Love it! I have had this issue 'forever!!!" it seems and now it is fixed. You made my day. Thanks for sharing. jim
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Old Thursday 30th April 2020, 21:17   #34
Alexis Powell
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What a brilliant idea and so 'cheap'!!!!!!! .... that issue is one that just hasn't been figured out by the scope folks....my scope always does that too simply because you barely have any 'give' with the screw so you can never tighten it up. The rubber bank has enough 'give' to provide more of a 'tightening' of the screw. Love it! I have had this issue 'forever!!!" it seems and now it is fixed. You made my day. Thanks for sharing. jim
Congrats if you feel that adding even more rubber works for you. From my perspective, "give" as you call it is precisely the problem. Screws and bolts don't need "give" to hold tight, rather, just the opposite. Plates from RRS and Kirk do not use rubber at all and they are so solid that they don't have to be tightened, sometimes even after years of use. Plates with rubber are guaranteed to loosen in time and to never be rock solid. The Manfrotto plates with the rubber strips that squirt out the sides, buckle up etc (as shown in your photo) are horrible. I have one that I use regularly after modifying it by removing the rubber, then using a Dremel to grind the center section of metal (between the rubber strips) down to the level of the rest of the plate for exactly the length of my scope's foot, but leaving the remainder of the center section and the lip around the edge of the plate to serve as an antirotation feature. Have been using it with my ED78 (which I carry in the field mounted on a tripod which has a shoulder strap) for the last couple years without any loosening despite often being carried with the scope held sideways (such that, without anti-rotation, it would twist off the plate immediately).

--AP
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Old Friday 1st May 2020, 12:52   #35
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alexis...it sounds like it is the rubber strips that squirt up...agreed. And the addition of the rubber band essentially evens out the playing field, but making up for that 'squirting upwards of the rubber strips.' I can most likely do what you have done and have no problem with 'messing' with my equipment as I constantly add on, or saw off etc! ... At the moment I will just see how the rubber band quick fix works. Will keep your idea for Plan B ... but a nice idea... jim
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Old Friday 1st May 2020, 16:52   #36
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Need a mulepack now ��
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Old Friday 1st May 2020, 16:53   #37
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Looking for a mulepack now
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Old Friday 1st May 2020, 17:05   #38
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I'd agree with others that for the budget it's worth having a look at the Manfrotto 055 legs (there have been many variants over the years) with either a 128 or 501 head. My Swaro scope sits on a 501 very happily, before that it was on a 128 until this was lent to a friend (I might need to buy another as it is a classic and I do miss using it).

With regards to rotation on a QR plate, I tend to put an elastic band around the foot before attaching the plate. This has been enough to increase the grip and stop it rotating.
I have the Manfroto 501 head and it has worked great for a Nikon 82ED spotter, Nikon 50ED spotter and also used it off the back porch with a 100ED refractor. Tripod is the Bogan 3236 ! I have quite few long distance places I can look at including Stone Mt. [in Pa.]
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Old Friday 1st May 2020, 18:04   #39
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Hi,

https://www.cleyspy.co.uk/mulepack.h...SAAEgKpYvD_BwE

Joachim
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Old Saturday 2nd May 2020, 17:30   #40
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I got mine on Ebay. You might be lucky.
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Old Saturday 2nd May 2020, 19:26   #41
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Plates from RRS and Kirk do not use rubber at all and they are so solid that they don't have to be tightened, sometimes even after years of use.
Sure, but I simply don't like Arca Swiss at all. I much prefer the old Manfrotto system (PL200 style) or, in some situations, Novoflex (the system with the round plates).

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Plates with rubber are guaranteed to loosen in time and to never be rock solid. The Manfrotto plates with the rubber strips that squirt out the sides, buckle up etc (as shown in your photo) are horrible. I have one that I use regularly after modifying it by removing the rubber, then using a Dremel to grind the center section of metal (between the rubber strips) down to the level of the rest of the plate for exactly the length of my scope's foot, but leaving the remainder of the center section and the lip around the edge of the plate to serve as an antirotation feature.
I do the same. I've also got some old Manfrotto plates with a thin layer of natural cork, they work very well indeed. Much better than rubber. But metal to metal is best by far.

Hermann
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Old Sunday 3rd May 2020, 02:00   #42
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...I simply don't like Arca Swiss at all. I much prefer the old Manfrotto system (PL200 style)...
What don't you like about the RRS, Kirk, Desmond, etc interpretations of the Arca style plates?

Having used both systems, my preference is very much the reverse of yours. I find the Arca type plates super versatile, very light weight, and absolutely secure. The PL200 plates are not secure over time, even when equipped with a pin they tend to loosen because of the fake cork. I still use one of them on a limited basis with a 60mm Fieldscope I to switch between a 700RC2 head and a car window mount that has a QR system that fits that plate.

--AP
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Old Sunday 3rd May 2020, 17:13   #43
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I'm with Alex regarding Arca-Swiss style clamps. The original AS clamp/plate mechanism (without internal catch slots/pins) was awesome. Clamp and plate became one when tight. No movement between the two whatsoever. NONE. The AS B-1 ball head I have is 20 years old and can hold a mountain without exhibiting any movement. Downside is that back then there were no mechanisms to keep it from sliding free when the clamp was loose. More than one photographer had a $10k 600mm rig hit the ground.

Haven't really kept up on all the different AS imitations of other manufacturers. The one's I've seen are better than the infernal Bogen/Manfrotto 200PL, but can be irritating to mount/dismount.
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Old Monday 4th May 2020, 05:20   #44
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One thing that I like about the Arca style for a system is that they can be made in such range of sizes to suit different purposes, from standard size, to long, to L-plates for cameras, to little square plates, to tiny plates for compact cameras or other small items. Likewise, clamps include screw knob, lever release, and threaded compatibility, and are available in many lengths, generally from 22 mm to 80 mm.

https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/BPn...-Point-n-Shoot

--AP
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Old Monday 4th May 2020, 13:25   #45
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[quote=welsh_kite;3993977]Need a mulepack now
Are they much better than the Scopac ?
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Old Tuesday 5th May 2020, 15:03   #46
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I use a Mulepack and it is fantastic. I use a Mulepack cos I got it cheap as a used item - that was my deciding factor. Never used a Scopac so cannot comment. The Scopac looks like a "variation on a theme".
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Old Tuesday 5th May 2020, 15:56   #47
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Hi,

I am actually using a german product called mulipack - they are all quite similar in their main function of allowing you to carry your tripod and scope like a backpack.

The differences lie in the size of the pockets and the scopac variations tout to be able be used with the tripod legs splayed - although I'm not really sure what use is that with a spotting scope - but for a camera, it might be useful.

Joachim

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Old Tuesday 5th May 2020, 16:26   #48
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Hi,

I am actually using a german product called mulipack - they are all quite similar in their main function of allowing you to carry your tripod and scope like a backpack.

The differences lie in the size of the pockets and the scopac variations tout to be able be used with the tripod legs splayed - although I'm not really sure what use is that with a spotting scope - but for a camera, it might be useful.

Joachim
Seems an interesting design, zippered pockets and high grade materials.
For those who read German: https://orniwelt.de/ausruestung/trag...tivtragesystem

Every time I see big gear like this, I'm grateful to Nikon for my little ED50.
But I have to admit, if you're willing to go the big glass route, a decent backpack option like this should be considered a priority.
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