Digiscoping with the Nikon P6000 (2 Viewers)

nickfb13 · Apr 19, 2010

As for the Nikon S4000, I don't think it allows for manual settings such as shutter speed or aperture.

This seems to be a problem with nearly all P&S cameras that have 3-4x digital zooms. A quick stroll through the local electronic store's camera section revealed many cameras with 3-4x zoom but none that allowed for any manual exposure controls, except for +/- exposure adjustment.

spuggyhawk · Apr 20, 2010

I have been looking for a remote shutter release for my P6000 and i can only find a ir remote, does anyone know if this also operates the AF (half depress) or does it just set off the shutter.
Is there a cable remote for it? if yes could you point me towards one because i cant find one online.
Cheers
Jon

Bosque Bill · Apr 20, 2010

spuggyhawk said:
I have been looking for a remote shutter release for my P6000 and i can only find a ir remote, does anyone know if this also operates the AF (half depress) or does it just set off the shutter.

The IR Remote just sets off the shutter (after it establishes autofocus) so there is a delay. There are some third-party mechanical gizmos that provide a cable release. Perhaps another person has details to post.

5bellies · Apr 21, 2010

Hello Jon,
You could try this from SRB Griturn
http://www.srb-griturn.com/cable-release-bracket-for-nikon-coolpix-p5000-p5100-and-p6000-1372-p.asp

Be lucky
Gary

5bellies · Apr 21, 2010

Hello Jon
should mention the initial price you see is for the bracket only, you would then need the actual cable release, which is an option on drop down
Cheers
Gary

spuggyhawk · Apr 21, 2010

Thanks for the replies chaps.
That bracket looks ok Gary but i cant work out where/how its attached, it says to the flash shoe but thats central on the camera.. where its attached in that picture looks like on/over the inbuilt flash.

I was hoping there was an electronic cable release that just plugs into the camera but no such luck.

mikenott · Apr 22, 2010

I have the SRB release and also have had the wireless. For me the SRB works better - you can half depress and check focus etc. It has a (solid) plastic base which fits into the flash hot shoe and the metal var can be extended and rotated so that the cable release (not supplied with it) can be aligned to press the shutter release quite comfortably. Use it all the time. Won't be going back to wireless or any wired cable release unless there was some super-duper reason for doing so.

lmans66 · Apr 22, 2010

I don't have a camera that has this option and I think I like the idea behind this though. How much of a difference do you feel it really makes for I can see the mechanics behind it make sense. Would it be extremely beneficial to select a camera for digiscoping with this option as a 'must' ..... Do the results warrant this feature? Just curious....

spuggyhawk · Apr 23, 2010

mikenott said:
I have the SRB release and also have had the wireless. For me the SRB works better - you can half depress and check focus etc. It has a (solid) plastic base which fits into the flash hot shoe and the metal var can be extended and rotated so that the cable release (not supplied with it) can be aligned to press the shutter release quite comfortably. Use it all the time. Won't be going back to wireless or any wired cable release unless there was some super-duper reason for doing so.

Thanks Mike, i think thats the way i'm going. I cant see the point in a release that you cant focus with first.

Jon

erik_tendols · Apr 15, 2011

Nicon P6000 + UR-E21 + DCA + Swarovski ATM80

Neil said:
This example shows the crop factor with the P6000 and the noise handling. In Jpeg you can see a little "smearing" due to the noise handling with the large number of megs on a small sensor. The first image is a wide zoom in the camera with some vignetting, the second has adjustments and cropping and shows some noise, the third has Noiseware applied to it.
Neil.
ps the distance was about 8 meters

Nikon P6000 plus Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw30x eyepiece and DCA adapter

Hong Kong,
China.
January 2009

Hi Neal,

My problem with the above setup is M43 out of the UR-E21 and the backplate of the DCA, at present M37. The purchased step-down ring 43-37 causes irritating and insufficient blur. Whre can I purchase an M37 backplate for the DCA. Swarovski is quite mute on my contacts? Thank you in advance

Neil · Apr 15, 2011

erik_tendols said:
Hi Neal,

My problem with the above setup is M43 out of the UR-E21 and the backplate of the DCA, at present M37. The purchased step-down ring 43-37 causes irritating and insufficient blur. Whre can I purchase an M37 backplate for the DCA. Swarovski is quite mute on my contacts? Thank you in advance

I use a third party 52mm adapter for the P6000 like this
http://www.dinodirect.com/52mm-Digital-Camera-Lens-Filter-Adapter-Tube-for-Nikon-P6000.html
Do you have the M52mm ? If you don't let me know as I many have a spare M37.
Neil.

erik_tendols · Apr 16, 2011

P6000 blurring

Neil said:
I use a third party 52mm adapter for the P6000 like this
http://www.dinodirect.com/52mm-Digital-Camera-Lens-Filter-Adapter-Tube-for-Nikon-P6000.html
Do you have the M52mm ? If you don't let me know as I many have a spare M37.
Neil.

Thank you Neill for your speedy reply to my incomplete question!

My problem as a novice in digiscoping despite being a seasoned photographer directs me to a few more words.

I get constantly blurred shots with my P6000 mounted on the ATM80 by a UR-E21, a step down ring 43-37 on the DCA backplate M37. A bit more than 3 mm are in this way added and I suspect that being the root of my problems.

I therefore thought that maybe a backplate 43 mm going straight into UR-E21, would ease my problems. Next comes of course my total inexperiense with the scope. I have therefore tested all available guides and advices for the P, S, A, AF setting, ISO and of course the speed, plus whatever crossed my road.

I'm not giving up, but continue. Though, for my continued mental balance I just bought a Sony NEX5 with the 18-200 mm zoom, which has already given me great pleasure when working directly with it and giving the scope a rest.

One small point more: Swarovski is advising to use the backplate M28 for the P6000. However, that brings my P6000 into a red flashing coma when passing the centerpoint between W and T. Obviously because the lens then is brought into physical contact with the DCA backplate. Hence, my use of the M37 and corresponding result, by now a rich collection of step-down and -uprings.

Finally, thank your for your many enlightening articles, responses and photos!

Erik

PS, YES, I do possess an M52 backplate for the DCA

Neil · Apr 17, 2011

Erik,
The main problem with using the P6000 and adapters on the DCA is that you have to zoom the camera lens too far to eliminate the vignetting, especially with a zoom eyepiece. From my experience the AF gets a little "unreliable" over 60% zoom so I often switch to Manual Focusing using the Infinity setting in the camera. The Nikons have a "sweet" spot in the Macro zone which is up to 43mm in the P6000 so I use a Universal type adapter ( eg swarovski UCA ) to get the lens as close to the eyepiece as possible.
With the DCA I use the 30x or 45x eyepiece for best results, or the 25-50x at the 50x setting. The only problem with the UCA is that you have to take it off for observing which is a pain.
Neil

erik_tendols said:
Thank you Neill for your speedy reply to my incomplete question!

My problem as a novice in digiscoping despite being a seasoned photographer directs me to a few more words.

I get constantly blurred shots with my P6000 mounted on the ATM80 by a UR-E21, a step down ring 43-37 on the DCA backplate M37. A bit more than 3 mm are in this way added and I suspect that being the root of my problems.

I therefore thought that maybe a backplate 43 mm going straight into UR-E21, would ease my problems. Next comes of course my total inexperiense with the scope. I have therefore tested all available guides and advices for the P, S, A, AF setting, ISO and of course the speed, plus whatever crossed my road.

I'm not giving up, but continue. Though, for my continued mental balance I just bought a Sony NEX5 with the 18-200 mm zoom, which has already given me great pleasure when working directly with it and giving the scope a rest.

One small point more: Swarovski is advising to use the backplate M28 for the P6000. However, that brings my P6000 into a red flashing coma when passing the centerpoint between W and T. Obviously because the lens then is brought into physical contact with the DCA backplate. Hence, my use of the M37 and corresponding result, by now a rich collection of step-down and -uprings.

Finally, thank your for your many enlightening articles, responses and photos!

Erik

PS, YES, I do possess an M52 backplate for the DCA

erik_tendols · Apr 17, 2011

Neil said:
Erik,
The main problem with using the P6000 and adapters on the DCA is that you have to zoom the camera lens too far to eliminate the vignetting, especially with a zoom eyepiece. From my experience the AF gets a little "unreliable" over 60% zoom so I often switch to Manual Focusing using the Infinity setting in the camera. The Nikons have a "sweet" spot in the Macro zone which is up to 43mm in the P6000 so I use a Universal type adapter ( eg swarovski UCA ) to get the lens as close to the eyepiece as possible.
With the DCA I use the 30x or 45x eyepiece for best results, or the 25-50x at the 50x setting. The only problem with the UCA is that you have to take it off for observing which is a pain.
Neil

Thank you Neill for your elaborated and kind response. I shall give the DCA another try, before accepting my defeat ;-))

erik_tendols · Apr 28, 2011

Neil,
I'm happy to decline my defeat, as it seems I found a solution. In a way your words of getting the lens as close as possible put me on the track. Simply by addressing the threatening of the UR-E21 by a replacement and NOT by Step-Up, -Down or converter rings. I found a company with such attacking i.e. directly addressing the camera and having a thread that addressed the 52mm for the DCA backplate. Result: vignetting diminished, depth and sharpness nearly perfect (?) - price 17,99 delivered! On top of the PhotoShop I'm now trying out the NikSoftware's Sharpener PRO, which appears promising.
Thank you for your kind readiness to advise. The link for this small marvel is: http://www.digitaltoyshop.com/Nikon_adapter_tube_t991_5073_1
Erik

Neil · May 2, 2011

erik_tendols said:
Neil,
I'm happy to decline my defeat, as it seems I found a solution. In a way your words of getting the lens as close as possible put me on the track. Simply by addressing the threatening of the UR-E21 by a replacement and NOT by Step-Up, -Down or converter rings. I found a company with such attacking i.e. directly addressing the camera and having a thread that addressed the 52mm for the DCA backplate. Result: vignetting diminished, depth and sharpness nearly perfect (?) - price 17,99 delivered! On top of the PhotoShop I'm now trying out the NikSoftware's Sharpener PRO, which appears promising.
Thank you for your kind readiness to advise. The link for this small marvel is: http://www.digitaltoyshop.com/Nikon_adapter_tube_t991_5073_1
Erik

Erik,
Isn't the Internet wonderful. You're on your way.
Neil.

Digiscoping with the Nikon P6000 (2 Viewers)

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