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New Shots (1 Viewer)

Have just returned from a short break. These photo's are my first attempt at shooting birds in flight.(Australian Sea Eagle) All shot with Borg 76ED with 1.4x Teleconverter.And Canon 450D. |=)|
 

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Thanks guys. Focus is not as sharp as I would like. I wonder if part of the problem might be the Canon 450d viewfinder?
My eye finds it hard to know when I have achieved focus when looking thru the viewfinder.
The old SLR film cameras with manual focus seem to offer up a better in focus
view. |=)|
 
Thanks guys. Focus is not as sharp as I would like. I wonder if part of the problem might be the Canon 450d viewfinder?
My eye finds it hard to know when I have achieved focus when looking thru the viewfinder.
The old SLR film cameras with manual focus seem to offer up a better in focus
view. |=)|

I often wondered too if I should change my focusing screen to split screen or not. I tried but always fail to get any BIF shots. But heard that split screen are darker?
 
I often wondered too if I should change my focusing screen to split screen or not. I tried but always fail to get any BIF shots. But heard that split screen are darker?

If you mean the split prism type then they tend to black out on the scopes because of the higher f number. The ones made by KatzEye tend to be what people go for.

I've never had a problem with birds in flight, or aircraft, helicopters etc. It takes a little more thought and some advanced planning makes it easier. Have the scope already focused on roughly the distance you think the birds will be flying at. Also do some test shots so you know the shutter speed is roughly right. For flight shots I tend to use the scope at 600mm so that I get a wider view and fast shutter speeds. As far as focusing goes, I just go my instinct and either the shape of the bird looks in focus or not, plus I keep focusing every couple of shots, making the image go in and out of focus while rattling off as many shots as possible. I think because I tend to use my scope a lot at quite high magnifications, when I go down to 600mm it just feels so easy, it's like a toy :t:

By the way, good first attempt silverloon.

Paul.
 
I tend to shoot lots of images, starting at a point where the subject 'looks' to becoming in focus rattling off other shots whilst very slightly moving focus to a point where it begins to look out of focus. Also I find it vital to set my diopter right in my viewfinder as i shoot either glass, eyes only or with contacts in. For this I use my 50mm lens, AF a book about 2 foot away, then adjust diopter till its the sharpest for me - then I am ready to shoot for the day.
 
I often wondered too if I should change my focusing screen to split screen or not.


No, because after about f5.6, or if you are very lucky, f6.3 ( half stop after f5.6 ) you will get one side of the prism darkening making it very difficult to get the split lines lined up for focus. Once the prism starts to darken, there is the possibility of very fine adjustment of your own eye, like moving slightly to the left or right by aboult 1 or 2 mm, buts its so critical that it becomes very hard work.

Avoid Katzeyes, as they are silly money. If you want to experiment with a split prism screen, try www.focusingscreen.com
 
According to the KatzEye website their KatzEye Plus split prism will still work at well past f11 and some users say it works to f22. Price is only about $25 more than the site musoman mentioned so it isn't a great deal more.

Paul.
 
Paul Corfield said:
I think because I tend to use my scope a lot at quite high magnifications, when I go down to 600mm it just feels so easy, it's like a toy

Most are just playing toys to you anyway when you have that razor sharp eyes plus those "bionic" arms LOL. Just make us try harder and harder because it's proven possible......

Musoman said:
No, because after about f5.6, or if you are very lucky, f6.3 ( half stop after f5.6 ) you will get one side of the prism darkening making it very difficult to get the split lines lined up for focus. Once the prism starts to darken, there is the possibility of very fine adjustment of your own eye, like moving slightly to the left or right by aboult 1 or 2 mm, buts its so critical that it becomes very hard work.

Avoid Katzeyes, as they are silly money. If you want to experiment with a split prism screen, try www.focusingscreen.com

Light had became my greatest enemy now with a slight failing sight. Would love to try that 10 years ago LOL. To change focusing screen, I need to brighten up my work light before I can see the clips. Thanks for the thinker...

Paul Corfield said:
According to the KatzEye website their KatzEye Plus split prism will still work at well past f11 and some users say it works to f22. Price is only about $25 more than the site musoman mentioned so it isn't a great deal more.

Paul.

How would that screen affect our normal AF photography especially in dimmer light?
 
I had a KatzEye screen and it was darkening between f5.6 / f8. So no different to Focusingscreen.com screen

I see the prices are getting higher too. I paid around £40 for my Canon screen from focusing.com, and when i tried the Katzeye, it was nearer £100.

I sold them and went back to the original

Split screens mess up the metering too, and i think you will possibly get over exposure. They dont like Spot metering very much at all, so you'd need Matrix / evaluative / centre weighted or what ever you have.

Bit of a catch 22 really as a lot of bird toggers prefer Spot metering most of the time
 
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From what i remember, the Katzeye + for the 40D is standard, rather than an option, but the K + is what i had, and by f8, i was having to move to all sorts of angles with my eye to try and get a clear image of the prism. It was simply too much hard work and by the time you've got your eye in the ( very ) critical spot, the moment has past.

There is some Optibrite treatment that can be ordered, but from what i've read, this is really hit and miss.
 
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A hundred Pound plus shipping? That would cost almost half my 80ED? So i guess the better option would be a magnifying EP for the camera VF. I am using the 1.15X but only help a bit. Will the Nikon 1.5X be any good and where to get?
 
I think it was around £100 including shipping. But thats because UK residents get ripped off when buying outside the Euro Union.

Import Duty + VAT on top of the combined purchase price / postage cost, then sometimes a handling fee from the delivery service here for getting our goods through customs.

Its plain legal robbery when you think about it
 
I think it was around £100 including shipping. But thats because UK residents get ripped off when buying outside the Euro Union.

Import Duty + VAT on top of the combined purchase price / postage cost, then sometimes a handling fee from the delivery service here for getting our goods through customs.

Its plain legal robbery when you think about it

It's all the same. You pay some duty and taxes but you got a currency 5X stronger than mine. Whatever you pay, I pay 5X more but of course no VAT but may get 10% sales tax...LOL
 
Its just a big game isnt it ? They like to see how far they can rob the little guy before riots start ;)


Hey Alphan ...just bought one of these yesterday

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v175/slapper/1024 MF Canon/BKR1206OTA.jpg

Welcome back mate. How was the the dark side? I saw you've been Nik and Opt. Share your experience....man. I really envy your adventure. So how long would it be before you strip your SW and upgrade it. BTW, that pic doesn't say a thousand words, at least one less. Was it 80, 100 or 120 ....? It would be so much more fun with you here...LOL.
 
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