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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Operation Lepidoptera, South Africa, 9-29 December 2017 (1 Viewer)

Jos Stratford

Eastern Exile
Staff member
United Kingdom
My second visit to South Africa in the space of six months, this three-week trip very much focussed on butterflies, though did begin with a few days in Kruger National Park searching for a number of iconic mammals, not least Wild Dog, the big cats, White Rhinos and the two bushbabies.

In comparison to birding, I found executing a butterfly trip in South Africa to be rather harder – with over 660 species in the country, not only do quite a number present considerable identification challenges, but there is also generally a dearth of information available to help locate top butterfly localities or specific sites for particular species. As a result, my itinerary was very much speculative, the basic route designed to incorporate a range of habitats from upland grasslands to lowland forests, the actual sites then fine tuned once on the ground to find good butterfly areas. Incorporating southern Kruger, Swaziland, Kwazulu-Natal and the Drakensburg Mountains, and timing the trip to correspond with the beginning of the southern summer, I managed a total of 136 species of butterfly over the three weeks, a fairly respectable total and one that included personal favourites such as Common Woolly Legs, Southern Buff Skipper and Reilly's Copper.

In hindsight, especially with summer rains proving late and most areas remaining extremely arid, my trip would undoubtedly have been more productive if I had timed it later in the season - though butterflies are on the wing throughout the year in both Kwazula and the northern Limpopo districts, peak butterfly numbers are generally closely tied to the arrival of the summer rains and the best periods are often late-summer to early autumn, i.e. March to early April. As it was, travelling at the very beginning of the rainy season, few flowers were present and consequently butterfly numbers were generally lower than I had expected, not helped on several days by overcast skies.
 
9 December. Berg-en-Dal, Kruger.

Sunny skies over Jo'burg as we landed at 11.30 a.m, hopes of quickly getting out into the field however dashed by an infuriating two-hour delay picking up the rental car (big queue, then long wait while they inefficiently organised insurance for Swaziland). Finally departed mid-afternoon, hit the highway east and watched the kilometres roll by as I headed for Berg-en-Dal, the southernmost camp in Kruger, a five hour drive from Otembo airport.

Black-shouldered Kite midway, quite a number of Long-tailed Widowbirds, plus regular Pierids fluttering across the road, presumably Brown-veined Whites most. Crossed the Crocodile River into Kruger a half hour before sundown, Hippos in the river, Giraffes and our first Elephants soon after, a range of common birds too, but it was after dark that our first pleasant surprises were to appear. After getting totally enchanted by a glorious range of weird and wonderful bugs attracted to the lights, accompanied by Geckos chomping them and a couple of Praying Mantis, a wander over to a floodlit was soon disrupted by the oop-oop-oop of an owl calling ...soon tracked it down, a Pearl-spotted Owlet sitting at the top of a low acacia. More remarkable however, moments after finding the owl, a scampering of something in the lower branches and there appeared a Lesser Bushbaby! Classic start to our trip, two great species in a single tree! Sleeping Pied Kingfisher, Water Thick-knees and beady eyes of Crocodiles completed the evening roll call.
 
Night critters, welcome to South Africa
 

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10 December. Berg-en-Dal to Skukuza, Kruger.

So the trip began in earnest, grey skies and mist at dawn not boosting my mood too much, thoughts of butterflies this day already evaporating. Winding through a landscape of rock koppies and low hills, a remarkable lack of mammals too – Impala here and there, a few Kudu, three dopey Spotted Hyenas at a waterhole, but nothing to overly impress.

Decided on a change of strategy – abandon the koppies and head for the riverine scrub along the Crocodile River at the extreme south of the national park. Excellent move: not only an immediate upswing in bird numbers, including Retz's Helmet-Shrike, two-a-penny Woodland Kingfishers, several White-fronted Bee-eaters and both Green Wood-Hoopoe and Common Scimitarbill, but also a fantastic stroke of luck as I drove along a gravel road near the Crocodile River. On the stroke of 7.30 a.m., as I trundled eastward, a lone animal appeared on the track in front of me, lolloping up over the brow of a low rise, then coming down the centre of the road directly towards me. Stopped the car and watched in awe as it trotted at fair speed straight past the open windows of the car, a blood-stained face glancing my way as it passed a mere metre or two away ...clearly it had had breakfast!

One of the rarest predators in southern Africa and my first for near 25 years, this was a Wild Dog, tremendous! Odd however it was only a single animal – classically a species that occurs in large packs I fully expected another bunch to appear at any moment. Sat and waited, but nothing happened, no more dogs, no further sign of the first individual. Eventually deciding to continue, low and behold, a kilometre further there I found more, six or seven resting under a roadside bush. Great animals, a menagerie of tawny-browns, blacks and whites, the dogs engaging in much licking and washing, clearly they too had participated in a kill some time earlier. And then returned the individual I had seen earlier, running in with much fanfare and excitement ... suddenly the six or seven Wild Dogs turned into a dozen as individuals jumped up from assorted bushes to all begin tumbling round after each other, play fighting and jumping. Still cloudy, but brightening considerably, these dogs were pure pleasure. Until they all suddenly upped and vanished into the scrubland.

Two kilometres further, spiralling vultures identified the locality of their breakfast table, the dogs all gone now, but 70 or so vultures now in a mass squabble over the remains, White-backed Vultures in the main, but four big butch Lappet-faced Vultures too, plus at least nine White-headed Vultures and seven Hooded Vultures. And if all that wasn't enough, three stonking great White Rhinos were slowly ambling across adjacent short turf, a female and two well-grown youngsters, all attended by Red-billed Oxpeckers. The disappointing hour at dawn was now a long-distant memory!

Doing a U-turn, my idea was to return to Berg-en-Dal and then meander up towards Skukuza, destination for the next two nights. I didn't get very far – the Wild Dogs had returned and were now all over the actual track, at least 20 of them! A car came the other way and there we were, sandwiched by Wild Dogs milling around, brushing against the sides of our cars, one even crawling underneath. Totally amazing, the whole pack then plonked itself down under bushes by the side of the road and went to sleep, happy looking dogs with well-extended bellies. And there they stayed, still apparently present a few hours later.

Sun didn't come out all day, but was pretty good throughout – plenty of birds and, zigzagging north, also bumped into no less than eight more White Rhinos (a group of four near Berg-en-Dal, a single 15 km further north and a group of three near Skukuza). Predictably, limited results with butterflies, but did add a few species, mostly roosting individuals, the best being several stunning Azure Hairstreaks, but also a Foxy Emperor, a Blue Pansy, a Dark-webbed Ringlet, a Striped Policeman and a Pale Ranger.

At Skukuza, chucked the tent up, had a quick look round, then decided on a late afternoon loop to the west – proved to be a spectacular way to end the day, first a Leopard sprawled across a branch high in a tree, then a few kilometres further a second Leopard half hidden in grass on an Impala kill!

As dark descended, spots of rain began. Back at Skukuza, I didn't bother with a planned night drive, but were still some nice surprises awaiting – first a couple of Acacia Tree Rats in the acacias above the tent, then a Greater Bushbaby prancing around on a wooden fence aside our tent, two chubby babies trailing along behind.

And so the day ended, 20 or so Wild Dogs, two Leopards, eleven White Rhinos, plus both Greater and Lesser Bushbaby in less than 24 hours, truly a great day in Kruger National Park!
 
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Wild Dogs
 

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And, despite the cloud, first butterflies
 

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11 December. Skuzuza/Lower Sable, Kruger.

Fairly quiet drive at dawn in the Skukuza area, grey sky again and just a Klipspringer on a koppie to serve as the main highlight. Fortunately the sun soon broke through this day, with both the weather and events brightening up considerately as we began a trip east to Lower Sable, especially so when we came across another pack of Wild Dogs, about 14 sleeping under roadside bushes this time!

The event of the morning however was not these dogs, but was awaiting some distance up the road! All started peaceful enough, a large troop of Baboons strutting down the road, engaging youngsters on one side, assorted adults scattered around. Stopped to watch them walk past, windows open as always, Little One enjoying the spectacle. Baboons strutting past, then a big male on the Little One's side, ambling straight and directly past the car. Or at least that is what I had expected to happen! What actually happened was a few moments of pandemonium as the Baboon suddenly jumped at the open window and clung on to the window frame, the great bulk of its shoulders and head leaning in, its large face complete with mighty canines peering in and, rather dangerously, not a huge number of centimetres from the face of Little One, who it has to be said was none too amused. I hit the accelerator, assuming the Baboon would immediately jump off, but instead the Baboon just hung on, we now travelling down the road little some comedy film act. Worrying the Baboon would freak out, and with Little One now screaming and scrambling for the back seat, unfortunately getting stuck between the seats, I decided it better to stop the car. And as I did, at the same time pushing Little One into the back, so the Baboon climbed fully into the car! Jeepers, I was on the driver's seat, a massive great Baboon was sitting on the passenger seat! It immediately started to rummage around e around in the door pockets, emptying rubbish to presumably look for food. What the Baboon would do next I had no idea, so I thought it prudent to abandon the car, telling Little One to exit via the opposite rear door. But then it was all over, just before we actually got out, the Baboon also decided it was time to abandon the car and clambered out. Oo, that was lucky, whole event had probably lasted only a few minutes, but it certainly got the adrenalin going - if the Baboon had attacked, it wouldn't have been pretty! Little One no longer likes Baboons!

Well, regaining a bit of composure, we decided to leave the Baboons behind and continue to the Lower Sable camp, ice cream as compensation for Little One, a wander to look for butterflies for me. And reasonably good for butterflies it proved, especially a scrubby corner of savannah bush. Particularly rich in Lycaenidae, species included at least ten African Common Blues, 10+ Velvet-spotted Blues and 15+ Thorntree Blues, plus a couple of Sooty Blues, one smart Silver-spotted Grey, one Brown Playboy and two Black Pies, this latter a truly stunning species.

Leaving behind the Hippos and waterbirds of Lower Sable, we then drove through quite a large area of arid savannah to the north – many European Rollers and Red-backed Shrikes, but few mammals and even fewer butterflies, the one exception being at the excellent Mlondozi Dam, where at least 250 Buffalo and 150 Elephants were coming to drink and a small picnic site provided a few butterflies, the best being Blue Pansy and Zebra White. Vervet Monkeys here too, which Little One viewed with some contempt.

Not much on the way back to Skukuza, but did stop at another big troop of Baboons crossing a road bridge - attempts at therapy for Post-Baboon Stress Syndrome didn't come to much, Little One demanded the windows to be closed! Bits and bobs in camp, two Large-spotted Genets during the early evening.
 
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Some butterflies of the day...
 

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I think the Dogs must be doing well in the Southern part of Kruger, we had two sightings three yeras ago. Did any of yours have tracking collars on? The second group we found, at least one animal had a collar on.

White Rhino is really common in the park now, we had twenty or so on a couple of days, didn't get Leopard though.



A
 
Jos,

was told many years ago by a seasoned South African never to leave windows open when Baboons are around. Lions, Leopards etc no problem, but I now always shut windows and lock the doors (they are also very good at opening unlocked doors) when Baboons are around.

Once watched a large male sat on top of a toilet block at Cape Point. He was watching the exit door of the shop. As soon as a woman came out of the shop carrying a bag, he ran up to her, knocked her flat on her back, then calmly walked off with the bag whilst searching for anything edible. Vicious beasts.

Glad the little one wasn't hurt.

Martyn
 
12 December. Skukuza, Kruger & Malalotja, Swaziland.

Final day in Kruger and what a spectacular finish! Starting at 4.30 a.m., I looped round Waterhole Road following pretty much an identical route to the day before. Results however were certainly not the same - assorted roosting raptors atop dead trees started things off, 18 White-backed Vultures and a single Hooded Vulture in one group of trees, then a Steppe Eagle, followed not long after by four African Hawk-Eagles and a Brown Snake Eagle. Plenty of other birds too, a Small Buttonquail across the track, a Red-crested Korhaan, two Brown-hooded Kingfishers, several Magpie Shrikes, etc.

But then came the first true highlight of the day - sprawled across a boulder on a at the base of a koppi, a most magnificent Leopard yawning away the dawn! And if that wasn't enough, ten minutes or so later, a second Leopard emerged from the rocks above and the two engaged in a bit of mutual head rubbing and general admiration of one another! Classic stuff, some minutes more of this and then up the rocks they clambered and slunk behind the koppi, show over.

A few kilometres further, in an area of open bush savannah, the next cat of the day ...walking directly down the middle of the road towards us, a very pale sandy Cheetah! Stopped the car and was thrilled to have it walk straight past, a mere couple of metres distant. 'Where did it go?' I asked Little One, as I looked back to see an empty road. Jeepers, it had decided to circle the car and was now glancing up through the passenger window ...certainly a wow moment! Round the car it circled and then continued its way, down the road for a few hundred metres, then off into the grass to walk parallel for some kilometre or so more. Honoured indeed I was. A little bit further, five Spotted Hyenas sleeping in a dustbowl didn't give two hoots to the passing Cheetah, on the cat went, eventually veering away and lost to view.

On route back to Skukuza, stopped to check another koppi for Klipspiringer ...and then four White Rhinos ambled into view! We were certainly having some luck this morning!

From Skukuza, the route was east to Lower Sable, then ultimately south to Crocodile Bridge to exit Kruger. Took a quieter back track and soon ran into a couple of cars stopped aside bushes and withered grass ...though initially hard to see, our luck was continuing - cat species number three, five Lions sleeping under a bush! With cubs seemingly intent on annoying the adults, occasional relocates allowed for rather better views, nice.

And all this was before 9.00 am, not forgetting White-fronted Bee-eaters and European Bee-eaters too, plus a whole load of other birds, not least Saddle-billed Stork, Yellow-billed Stork, Green-backed Heron, eight Water Thick-knees and a range of passerines, including Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver, Chinspot Batis and White-crowned Shrike. Added Elephants and Buffalo at Lower Sable to score the 'Big Five' on the single day, then travelled south towards Crocodile Bridge, completing also the day's full house of rollers - one Purple Roller, 25+ Lilac-breasted Rollers, 40+ European Rollers and one Broad-billed Roller!

Only one new butterfly species this morning however - a single Bushveld Purple Tip.

Afternoon to follow ...
 
And the next one ...
 

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And the afternoon ...

Crossed into Swaziland mid-afternoon, then realising I didn't actually have a map of the country! Fortunately I remembered the way to Malalotja and got there in time to enjoy a final few hours of sunshine in the evening - a superb reserve famous for its upland grassland supporting large numbers of Blesbok and as one of the last breeding locations for Blue Swallow. Didn't see any Blue Swallows this time, but plenty of Blesbok grazing the slopes, plus Grey Rhebok and Mountain Reedbuck.

I however was more intent on finding a few butterflies. Nowhere near the abundance I had hoped for, perhaps too early in the season, but some pretty good species among those found - main highlights a very mobile Gaudy Commodore, a rather nice Harlequin Skipper and, in damp areas aside a stream, two Mocker Bronzes and several Marsh Blues.

Spent the night in a cabin overlooking the grasslands, Blesbok in abundance from the veranda as the sun set.
 
Some butterflies of Malalotja ...
 

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...was told many years ago by a seasoned South African never to leave windows open when Baboons are around...

Having spent three years travelling in South Africa, some would hope I am a 'seasoned South African' ...clearly not enough, because I still can't bring myself to close a window :-O
 
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