EOS 350D metering (1 Viewer)

Digital Review says the Digital Rebel XT doesn't have spot metering. The Canon website says: "Metering Patterns: With the Digital Rebel XT, you have a choice of whether to use 35-zone AF point evaluative metering, partial metering at the center of the image or centerweighted averaged metering, similar to a meter in a traditional 35mm camera."

Centerweighted averaged metering isn't spot metering?

The Fuji I have now has "TTL 64-zones metering Multi, Spot, & Average". Would there be a significant difference between the Fuji & Canon photometry functionality for bright or white subjects on a dark background?

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the "partial metering at the center of the image" is spot metering.

Tyler Vargo said:

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the "partial metering at the center of the image" is spot metering.

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I don't thinks so, but that's why I'm asking. Digital Review says in a couple places that it isn't the same thing. It looks to me like "center-weighted" is as much as 75% of the subject area, whereas "partial metering at centre" is 9%, and spot metering is as little as 1%. The 20D, for example, definitely does have spot metering, as does my Fuji.

I tried some test shots yesterday of a white rose with pale pink and yellow details (Peace, if that means anything to anyone) in bright sun on dark green foliage at max zoom with a Tcon 17, trying to simulate a white bird on dark green foliage, with exposure compensation set at 0.0, -0.3, and -0.6. The rose was less than 1% of the frame at that distance and was the center of focus.

Both the Pattern and Multi metering failed to capture any detail at all in the white - it was way over-exposed - which is exactly what I expected.

Spot metering worked perfectly and picked up all the fine details at either -0.3 or -0.6, can't remember which, though the rose was on a very dark background of course.

With center metering at 9% I suspect this would be a very difficult subject to capture correctly, unless you got close enough to fill more of the center. You can't always do that with birds, which is why I'm wondering if this type of metering is adequate for birding.

If you buy a more expensive tele lens to compensate for the metering, then don't you end up spending just as much as if you bought a 20D in the first place? I'm on a budget and want to be realistic about how much it's actually going to cost to be satisfied with the performance of the EOS 350D vs something else.

A few references to "No spot metering" on the EOS 350D:

In "Conclusions - Cons" one of the items is * No spot metering here:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos350d/page28.asp

And here from another review: Light metering can be set to evaluative 35 zones, center-weighted or partial at 9% center. As with all lower class EOS cameras, the EOS 350D doesn't have spot metering.
http://www.e-fotografija.com/artman/publish/article_648.shtml

And finally here, comparing features to the Nikon D70:

Nikon D70 metering:

TTL full-aperture exposure metering system

3D color matrix metering with 1,005-segment RGB sensor

Center-weighted: Weight of 75% given to 6, 8, 10, or 13-mm circle in center of frame (variable through custom functions)

Spot: Meters about 1% of frame centered on active focus area

Canon Digital Rebel XT / 350D:

TTL full aperture exposure metering

35-zone SPC (1) 35 Point Evaluative (linked to all AF points)

Partial metering at centre (approx. 9% of viewfinder)

Centre weighted

http://www.digitalreview.ca/cams/NikonD70versusRebelXT.shtml

The 20D doesn't have spot metering - only the partial, again.

Spot metering's only OK if you point it at a 'mid-tone' subject or if you know by how much you need to alter the exposure if it's not mid-tone. It requires you to use a bit of thought which might not be practical with a fast moving subject!

Adey Baker said:

The 20D doesn't have spot metering - only the partial, again.

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No? Sorry, my mistake.

Adey Baker said:

Spot metering's only OK if you point it at a 'mid-tone' subject or if you know by how much you need to alter the exposure if it's not mid-tone. It requires you to use a bit of thought which might not be practical with a fast moving subject!

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Then what do you do if you're out looking for birds flying overhead - is it a matter of being equipped with the best zoom lens you can afford and knowing how to frame the subject quickly and correctly? Or settling for what you can capture with a prime lens? Either way, you'd still have to be fast setting your exposure, but I'm not sure which is faster - or preferable. Spot metering would appear to me to be the fastest way to get it right, but I'd like to hear some more pros and cons on that.

There's a bit of trial and error involved, really. Try a few test shots and look at the LCD screen and, especially, the 'histogram.'

I usually have the camera set to aperture-priority with the 'evaluative' metering mode selected and I have the exposure compensation set to 1/3rd stop under (to avoid burning-out the highlights).

This is good for a wide range of conditions but if I see a bird overhead I'll dial in some 'over-exposure' (unless the sky is very blue) before I start to shoot.

Likewise, if the subject is predominantly dark, I'll dial-in some 'under-exposure.'

You'll soon get the 'feel' of how much by studying the shots and comparing different amounts of compensation with different levels of brightness in the sky.

The evaluative -type metering patterns do allow for different levels of brightness in the subject within certain limits (some are better than others) but spot-metering requires you to do all the brain-work!

I to still haven't mastered the metering modes but have found that when I am specifically wanting to take birds in flight I take a rough meter reading from the grass which is approx near 18% grey. I have found I am getting better exposers. I still have to do a bit of tweaking especially if the light is constantly changing with clouds changing the light.

That's a good point, I haven't experimented with gray cards yet. Been meaning to get some.

I have just done a couple of examples there is a lot of camera shake as it is dark.I had to use 1600 iso The first photo was done on Av no setting up but letting camera set the speed. The second phot Left it on AV but pointed at the grass and pressed exposer lock then pointed at same tree. you can now see the leaves and the house in the background. hope this helps a little. I did these on my new 350d

Forgot to mention I had it set on partial metering mode

Saphire said:

I have just done a couple of examples there is a lot of camera shake as it is dark.I had to use 1600 iso The first photo was done on Av no setting up but letting camera set the speed. The second phot Left it on AV but pointed at the grass and pressed exposer lock then pointed at same tree. you can now see the leaves and the house in the background. hope this helps a little. I did these on my new 350d

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Thanks for posting those, I see what you mean now. :t:

I took a look through your gallery and I'm very impressed by the photos you've posted from both your old 300d and new 350d. Would you mind telling me what that 170 - 500mm lens is?

The lens is the sigma 170-500 It was about £200 british pounds less then the Sigma 50-500. It is a very heavy lens it has a collar so the lens attaches to the tripod although I prefer to hand hold as I am walking around with it most of the time trying not to miss anything. I am very pleased with the results I get, but darn't even look at better quality cos I no I will want. LOL!.

Saphire said:

The lens is the sigma 170-500 It was about £200 british pounds less then the Sigma 50-500. It is a very heavy lens it has a collar so the lens attaches to the tripod although I prefer to hand hold as I am walking around with it most of the time trying not to miss anything. I am very pleased with the results I get, but darn't even look at better quality cos I no I will want. LOL!.

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Thanks, I found it. It's enormous! My Christmas shopping is done - Sigma 170-500mm f/5-6.3 APO Aspherical Lens for Canon SLR Cameras for me, cards for everyone else ||

Yes it is enormous but it is my main lens on the camera I very rarely remove it to use other lenses. I am used to the weight now so don't find it a problem. It probably sounds daft but I have even taken macro shots standing 3 metres away, that's the closest it will focus.

Hope you get to grips with the metering I am still learning