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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Operation Lepidoptera, South Africa, 9-29 December 2017 (1 Viewer)

[B]13 December. Malalotja & Hlane, Swaziland.[/B]

After a night of impressive lightning storms, the day dawned to a blanket of thick fog. As it cleared a little, Greater Striped Swallows and White-necked Ravens around the chalets, then several Buff-streaked Chats and a Cape Rock Thrush on the surrounding slopes, also both Cape Longclaws and Yellow-throated Longclaws, Broad-tailed Warbler and Yellow-tufted Pipit. Walked across to a pool to check gathering swallows, flushed two Black-rumped Buttonquails in the process. At the pool, Black Saw-wing and White-throated Swallows among the more common species, plus plenty of widowbirds – Fan-tailed Widowbirds and Red-collared Widowbirds most common, White-winged Widowbirds also moderately common. No Blue Swallow.

All a bit damp and drab though, Blesboks plodding through the murk, Grey Rhebok and Burchell's Zebras looking bedraggled. Turned to rain by 9.00 a.m., I predicted a total write-off for butterflies and decided to leave Malalotja and head to the eastern lowlands of Swaziland. But then I got the car stuck on a steep slope, the rain turning the red soil into a slippery sludge and the car simply sliding all over the place! Chucking tons of grass on the slope, took a good 30 minutes to nurse the car up a mere 100 metres of track. And by the time I was finally clear of the treacherous slope, a great slab of blue sky was appearing in the southern and western skies – time for change of plans again!

And so it was, Malalotja was soon sitting in glorious sunshine, the slopes almost immediately warm and dry. The search for butterflies was back on – as day before, numbers proved quite low, but still nine species in the next couple of hours, including my only Long-winged Acraea of the trip, plus another Harlequin Skipper, another Gaudy Commodore and, all taking salts from soil next to a stream, Marsh Blue, Common Meadow Blue and a single Rayed Blue.

Left Malalotja at midday and drove across the country to Hlane, a reserve set in think bush savannah not far from the Mozambique border. Arriving quite late in the day, a Yellow Pansy, a Sulphur Orange Tip and a female Red Tip were the only butterflies seen, but not bad for other wildlife - loads of Nyalas and other antelopes, plus abundant birds including a colony of nesting Marabou Storks, several Crested Guineafowls, two Green Woodhoopoes, a couple of Bennett's Woodpeckers, quite a number of Violet-backed Starlings, an Eastern Bearded Scrub-Robin and quite a bit more.

Camped at this locality, a Lion roaring from dusk pretty much through the night, a second on occasion ...most evocative.
 
Butterflies of the day ...
 

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Having spent three years travelling in South Africa, some would hope I am a 'seasoned South African' ...clearly not enough, because I still can't bring myself to close a window :-O

Its the only animal I close the windows for, though looking back I have many Baboon photos and I never shoot through glass ;)
 
14 December. Hlane & Mlawula, Swaziland.

Curse of the overcast skies again at dawn ...but I was soon not thinking about that, a stroll over to the local waterhole leaving me astounded - no less than eleven White Rhinos gathered! Totally amazing, sat myself down on ground and just took in the view, four here, three there, one plodding across in front, more just there, White Rhinos everywhere. Two took a mild interest in the human in their midst, this pair slowly ambling right up to me, stopping as close as four metres to just stand and stare, and to sniff the air. Very nice half hour or so in the presence of these gentle giants, a slightly sobering though being the black market value of the assorted giant horns assembled before me, a tragic reminder of the fate that so many rhinos are facing in southern Africa at present.
 

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Next up on my itinerary was Mlawula Nature Reserve, an area of riverside bush just 15 km or so up the road. From this point on in my trip, butterflies were to become the main target of the trip and the main reason I wanted to visit Mlawula was that walking was not in the least restricted, unlike Hlane for example where the chance of getting chomped by a Lion means that you have to stick to the car.

Cloudy skies still at Mlawula, but super it proved to be, a small path leading from the campsite to the river producing a whole range of butterflies, many active on the wing and many being new species for me. Absolute stunners, Broad-bordered Acraeas were one of the real highlights, one freshly emerged from the pupa being particularly impressive as it pumped open its wings. Also my only Little Acraea of the trip seen here, as well as the only Bushveld Ringlet, the only Guineafowls (another impressive butterfly species) and one of only two Dark-webbed Ringlets recorded on this trip.

Citrus Swallowtail, Brown Pansy, Broad-bordered Yellow, Common Scarlet and Ashen Smoky Blue all seen for first time, as were Black-striped Hairtails and Topaz-spotted Blues, both of these being present in their dozens. Amongst other species, also saw here five Yellow Pansies, several Azure Hairstreaks and quite a few Sooty Blues.

The best site so far on this trip for butterflies. I was however left wondering how good it would have been if the sun was shining! The sun however had no plan to visit and as afternoon approached, clouds began to thicken and rain looked imminent. Decided to abandon Swaziland a little ahead of schedule and drive directly to Mkuzi in Kwazulu-Natal, 220 km distant. Arrived early evening and booked a chalet for three nights, high hopes for the next days.
 
Milwane butterflies
 

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15/16 December. Mkuzi Game Reserve.

Mkuzi, one of the flagship Zululand reserves and one of South Africa's richest birding localities, this large swathe of bushland savannah and the extensive Nsumo Pan also harbours super abundant Nyala and Impala, a good range of other herbivores including Suni Antelope and Red Duiker, plus a select group of mammalian carnivores, these fairly elusive but including Lions, Cheetahs and Wild Dogs. Didn't manage any of the predators in my couple of days, but did see a single Suni and four Red Duikers.

Spent most of my two days poking about in the grasslands in areas you are allowed to walk - and for quite a while getting a bit if a headache with the dizzing array of Pieridae! Identified sixteen species in all, though with the males and females varying considerably, it felt quite a few more! Some quite easy like the delightful Sulphur Orange Tips and Smoky Orange Tips, others quite a minefield, especially the females.

Final tally of Pierids:
Zebra White - 8+
Vine-leaf Vagrant - 1
Buquet's Vagrant - several
Cambridge Vagrant - 2
Veined Orange - 1
Scarlet Tip - several
Sulphur Orange Tip - common
Common Orange Tip - several
Smoky Orange Tip - several
Bushveld Orange Tip - several
Banded Gold Tip - 15+
Brown-veined White - common
African Common White - several
African Veined White - several
African Migrant - fairly common
African Wood White - 1


Partially corresponding to possibilities to leave the car and walk, three main areas proved to be excellent for butterflies:

a. Mantuma Camp.
With the campsite unfenced, it was easy to wander off into the surrounding bush a little, marauding Baboons and passing Nyala aside. As well as many of the whites being in this area, also Yellow Pansy, Citrus Swallowtail and African Monarchs.

Used butterfly bait traps here, dreams of oodles of species attracted by the fermented fruit failing somewhat, just a single Squinting Bush Brown being the result!

Campsite area also good for birds, with a troop of tame Crested Guineafowl ambling about, a Pygmy Kingfisher appearing by the rather green-looking swimming pool and species such as Black-backed Puffback, White-crested Helmet-Shrike, White-breasted Scrub Robin and abundant Violet-backed and Cape Starlings all present.

b. Kumasinga, Sand Forest.
Good area for birds, Black Cuckooshrike, Sombre Greenbul, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Eastern Nicator, Eastern Bearded Scrub-Robin, Brown Scrub-Robin and Black-bellied Starling all seen in the vicinity, plus singles of the localised Neergard's Sunbird and Pink-throated Twinspot.

Dry and arid, consequently not so good for butterflies, but did manage Thorntree Blue and Grass Jewel Blue, plus my only Natal Spotted Blues and Wandering Sandman of the trip.

c. Nsumo Pan.
A couple of car parks and short paths to lakeside viewpoints allowed good access and a nice selection of butterflies. Citrus Swallowtails, African Monarchs, Broad-bordered Acraeas, my first White-barred Acraea of the trip and Brown Pansies topped the big colourful stuff, while flowering bushes attracted a whole bunch of very nice butterflies, including whites, as well as a couple of stunning Natal Bars, two Common Scarlets and quite a number of Purple-brown Hairstreaks. After quite some effort, discovered at least one Coastal Hairstreak too, a localised species very similar to Purple-brown Hairstreak.

Massive bird list here too - flocks of Pink-backed Pelicans mingling with African Spoonbills, African Openbills, Yellow-billed Storks, a couple of Saddle-billed Storks and a whole bunch of assorted herons and egrets, Goliath Herons amongst them. Also throngs of Glossy Ibises and Sacred Ibises in shallow area, so too loads of Spur-winged Geese and White-faced Ducks, dozens of African Jacanas and several Purple Swamphens. Alongside, Malachite Kingfisher and Pied Kingfisher (along with Woodland Kingfisher and Brown-hooded Kingfisher in adjacent woodland), plus Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters hawking the water's edge. Trumpeter Hornbill, Broad-billed Roller, Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike and Grey Penduline Tit also seen, as were African Cuckoo Hawk, Martial Eagle, Brown Snake Eagle and Wahlberg's Eagle. All in all, a top location.
 
Some of the many Pierids ...
 

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Some of the others ...
 

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Basically zero birding from this point on - trip on the Kwazulu coast and later localities fully dedicated to butterflies ... so be warned, the only mentions of birds are where particularly nice species happened to jump in the way :)



17 December. Kosi Bay.

Departed Mkuzi fairly early, seeing Purple-crested Turaco on route out, then headed north towards the Mozambique border and Kosi Bay. Stopped briefly at the Pongola River with the hope of finding butterflies, but found it suffering from the prolonged drought and basically devoid of butterflies, though did see Giant Kingfishers on the river. Pushed on to Kosi Bay for the beginning of a week exploring the Zululand coast from north to south, hopefully which would prove to be the most productive segment for butterflies.

Stayed at a small campsite just east of the Kosi Bay section of the Isimangaliso Wetland, my initial assessment being one of concern - here too was extremely dry, vegetation mostly withered and flowers absent. No butterflies to be seen! Fortunately however, a mere ten-minute drive took me to Kosi Bay Rest Camp, a network of paths and tracks set in dense tangles of sand forest.

On arrival, large colourful butterflies zooming around the forest margins, additional black-and-white species drifting around the tops ...this was looking much better! Set up a couple of bait traps again, then set out to explore. The bright colourful species proved difficult for the simple reason they never seemed to settle, always highly mobile. Chased them up and down the edges waiting for the occasional pauses, patience and luck eventually sorting them up - gorgeous green and black Large Striped Swordtails in the main, a few Cream Striped Swordtails also present and at least three Citrus Swallowtails, two Mocker Swallowtails and one Green-banded Swallowtail. Equally happy to rarely settle, the black-and-white drifters caused me some identification problems for a while, quite a number of species being quite similar, but do believe they were all Common Wanderers, at least ten present, mostly in the low canopy.

The next three or four hours notched up a splendid selection of species, many new for me and several that I would not see elsewhere. Amongst the best, several Broad-bordered Acraeas, my first Natal Acraeas of the trip and my only Blood-red Acraea, also my only Clouded Mother-of-Pearls, a ghostly-like species, and only Soldier Pansies. Several Golden Pipers also seen, plus plentiful Twin Dotted Borders (though some identification issues, perhaps Common Dotted Border also present) and assorted other Pierids, Smoky Orange Tip the most abundant.

Amongst smaller stuff, Common Meadow Blue, two Sooty Blues and a nice trio from the confusion hairtail group - Otacilia Hairtail, Kersten's Hairtail and Pale Hairtail. Needed to photograph many of these to secure identification, even then some doubts on some!

For all the big colourful species, my favourite butterfly of the day however rather smaller - fully living up to the 'woolly leg' label, one splendid Southern Pied Woolly Legs, a carnivorous butterfly whose caterpillars eat aphids, while the adults take honeydew. A territorial Honey Hopper was also rather pleasing. Back at my bait traps, no emperor species as I had hoped, but did catch a few Squinting Bush Browns and, another new species for me, one Boisduval's Tree Nymph.

Back at the camp, quite an hour or two trying to sort out lingering identification issues, but a good day it had been, 30 odd species of butterfly recorded, plus a few localised birds, Red-capped Robin-Chats and Brown Scrub-Robin perhaps the most notable.
 
Assortment from this day ...
 

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Bait trap and Boisduval's Tree Nymph in the trap.

Made several of these prior to the trip, a couple bigger than this one pictured - basically the butterflies are attracted to fermented fruit on the tray at the bottom, then fly upwards into the trap. I added zipped openings to allow the easy release and less easy photographing.

Supposed to be amazing for attracting emperors - I was probably too early, didn't get many of these at all.
 

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A superb set of mammals - envy your rhinos especially - I've never been close to one. Equally glad to never have been that close to a Baboon!

Cheers
Mike
 
18 December. Kosi Bay.

Headed a little to the north this day, to Kosi Bay River Mouth. Crossing sandy dunes, the last three kilometres are 4x4 only ...and a stinking hot walk it is, but as the day before, pretty good for butterflies. In the dunes, my only African Ringlet of the trip and, complementing a Broad-bordered Grass Yellow on the previous day, four Angled Grass Yellows this day.

I had expected the coastal forest at the end of the track to be similar to that I'd visited the day before, and indeed for some species it was, but overall quite a different selection - Citrus and Mocker Swallowtails again, but no swordtails noted at all. In compensation however, I added yet two more to the trip list from the attractive Acraea family - several of both Fiery Acraea and Acara Acraea, the latter of which I only recorded at this locality. Also saw Natal Acraea, but this was a species that I would see daily throughout the coastal plain. Other butterflies of interest included a Coastal Hairstreak, Topaz-spotted Blue, at least 15 Cupreous Blues and, attracted to my bait trap, a Club-tailed Emperor.

Had plans for the evening this day, so departed mid-afternoon for the trek back over the dunes to the car. A pause at a roadside puddle some kilometres further produced a couple of excellent species, both ones that I would see only here - taking salts on the damp mud, two Angola White Ladies and a single Dark Hottentot Skipper. Nice butterflies both.

And so to the evening, clambered atop a 4x4 and set off on a two-hour bumpy drive to remote beaches far to the south, arriving at a long sandy beach just as it got dark. Beach for turtles - under the cover of darkness, regular Loggerhead Turtles and occasional humongous Leatherback Turtles haul themselves up to lay eggs. Strictly regulated with torchlight only permitted once a turtle is found and already settled to lay eggs, of we went, a walk of a couple of kilometres. Result, one female Loggerhead Turtle laying just above the highwater mark, rather nice. No Leatherback Turtle unfortunately, though the drag marks of one from the previous evening were mighty impressive, what a giant!
 
Kosi Bay ...
 

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