Digiscoping with DSLR - What's the "proper" lens to use? (1 Viewer)

What lens should I be using when digiscoping with a DSLR? Will my shots always be circles that need to be cropped? Is the DLSR overkill or should I be expecting better results than if I used my phone with an adapter?

The scope is a Vanguard 82a with the PA-202 adapter. The Camera is a Canon 77D.

I have tried the 18-55 & 55-250 lenses that came with the camera kit but with very little luck getting a clear image. I have not tried the 50 we recently purchased because I don't (yet) have an adapter to go from 49mm to the 58 or 52 on the 202.

My wife and I are getting into birding more and more every year. The camera and scope were both purchased within the last year with the hopes that we'd be able to capture some great images of the birds we love to watch.

Thank you!

I see from the comments someone uses a 45mm MFT lens without vignetting (i.e. it's fully in the circle). That would be a 90mm equivalent (or 60mm physical on a 77D). I would bet a regular 50mm lens would do ok with minimum cropping. You have the 50mm f/1.8 STM?

I would not use a zoom. You want the sharpest lens you can get on there, which would be your 50mm. You can get inexpensive reducers from B&H or Adorama.

That all said, the 77d is probably a really big hunk of weight on the scope and might not be that easy to maneuver. Many people use MFT or 1" cameras. They usually have better live view and zooming for manual focus and are much lighter on the scope.

If I were to pick a lens, I'd likely go with the 60mm EF-s macro (for crop sensor cameras). It's about $250-300 used or $400 new. B&H has two very good used ones for about $320. it's a 52mm filter. The 50mm f/2.8 macro (EF full frame lens) is another good option, though the way the lens extends for macro might not be the best for digiscoping. But I'd try your 50mm first and see how it does.

Digiscoping is a little tricky, as you need to focus the scope to get the image in about the right place for the lens to then re-focus it on the sensor. I usually experiment a little to get the image in about the right place on the scope, then focus on the camera, then focus on the scope again. You want to use a remote shutter release. On a DSLR, if you want use the Mirror Up mode (where you press the shutter release twice after a pause) that can reduce shake from the mirror. The 77D does not have electronic front curtain, which I'd otherwise use. Mirrorless had a distinct advantage here in beging very low shake. Remember to use as high a shutter speed as you can, or use mirror up.

Marc

marcsantacurz said:

I see from the comments someone uses a 45mm MFT lens without vignetting (i.e. it's fully in the circle). That would be a 90mm equivalent (or 60mm physical on a 77D). I would bet a regular 50mm lens would do ok with minimum cropping. You have the 50mm f/1.8 STM?

I would not use a zoom. You want the sharpest lens you can get on there, which would be your 50mm. You can get inexpensive reducers from B&H or Adorama.
Marc

Click to expand...

You were 100% correct. The 50mm with an adapter worked well. The results were much better than any of the kit lenses I tried before. Thus far I only tried it with a photo of the moon, but I could tell that it's a far better option than my other lenses.

marcsantacurz said:

That all said, the 77d is probably a really big hunk of weight on the scope and might not be that easy to maneuver. Many people use MFT or 1" cameras. They usually have better live view and zooming for manual focus and are much lighter on the scope.

Digiscoping is a little tricky, as you need to focus the scope to get the image in about the right place for the lens to then re-focus it on the sensor. I usually experiment a little to get the image in about the right place on the scope, then focus on the camera, then focus on the scope again. You want to use a remote shutter release. On a DSLR, if you want use the Mirror Up mode (where you press the shutter release twice after a pause) that can reduce shake from the mirror. The 77D does not have electronic front curtain, which I'd otherwise use. Mirrorless had a distinct advantage here in beging very low shake. Remember to use as high a shutter speed as you can, or use mirror up.
Marc

Click to expand...

So correct. Digiscoping is tricky. I had a stationary object and it took time to get the set up right. I don't think birds will be as patient. Maybe I need to rethink my setup if I want to consistently get good shots.

This past week we had two American Bald Eagles on the ground eating carrion in our yard. Unfortunately I missed it but my wife and daughter witnessed it. It was very unlikely that they'd be able to get the scope in position to get a good shot. While the scope is fun, I guess a really good (and expensive) lens is the only real option to get good close ups of birds who are far away.

Thank you!
B34N

B34N said:

So correct. Digiscoping is tricky. I had a stationary object and it took time to get the set up right. I don't think birds will be as patient. Maybe I need to rethink my setup if I want to consistently get good shots.

This past week we had two American Bald Eagles on the ground eating carrion in our yard. Unfortunately I missed it but my wife and daughter witnessed it. It was very unlikely that they'd be able to get the scope in position to get a good shot. While the scope is fun, I guess a really good (and expensive) lens is the only real option to get good close ups of birds who are far away.

Thank you!
B34N

Click to expand...

You will get a lot faster with practice, but it will never by zippy.

You have a 20x - 60x? 20x is about 1000mm 35mm equivalent (660mm crop sensor) and 30x is 1500mm 35mm (1000mm crop sensor). 60x is 3000mm.

You can get good 600mm lenses (Tamon 150-600mm g2) for about $1200 new. That gives you a 18x view. If you do a 2x crop (say 24MP -> 6MP), that's about a 36x view. You could probably crop your way down to a 40x view (2000mm 35mm equivalent). That's not too bad. And it will autofocus very very fast.

But it is a 4 lb (2kg) hunk of metal to carry around, plus your camera.

Marc