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Promaster Infinit Elite ELX ED 8x42 (1 Viewer)

Steve, I wasn't referring to FOV, but AFOV. I can't tell much difference between bins with a variance of 20'(or quite a bit more, either) unless I target a neighbor's privacy fence ~150yds. away, and intentionally check it. Don't see how anybody could.
I do however have several binoculars with 60* AFOV, and one with a 63* AFOV, and yes, the difference between 63 and 60, and 60 and 56 degree AFOVs are quite obvious to me.
 
Owen,

I understand where you are here. I guess I really was referrring to both. For example just looking at my two 8x Yosemities, the fov deal works this way;
6x actual 420', 8.0*=apparent 48* 8x actual 393', 7.5*=apparent 60*

If you look closely it is apparent you are looking at a broader swath of territory with the 6x than with the 8x. Yes you have to look closely because this is little difference from the fov difference of the Promaster and Meostar. The image of the 8x looks bigger, but to me the fov is not apparently wider, certainly nowhere near 12* of difference.

I understand the concept of the apparent fov, but I sometimes think it is if no more value than twilight factor of relative brightness or something else that is defined by a mathematical relationship regardless of quality. Maybe I ought to go out and do some more serious consideration of the two, but since I don't place too much emphasis there I wonder if it would be of much value. I tend to look for resolution first, lack of edge distortion second, and fov last. Plus that strictly subjective impression my eyes give me. I personally will sacrifice some fov for some resolution any day.

I still think we like what we like and I'm fine with that. I'd still like to find some sort of test concept to see what people see without advance knowledge of what it is they're looking through.
 
Steve,

There are two issues that I want to comment on. One, I think anyone can become accustomed to a particular apparent field of view. Heck, I used the 8x42 Monarchs for a couple of years and never even noticed how narrow the AFOV was (51 degrees). But switching from it to the 10x42 (60 degrees) the less "paper towel roll" view was immediately noticeable despite the slightly narrower true field of view (15 foot difference). Binoculars like the Meostar 8x42 and Swaro EL 8.5x42 really boast superb images because I believe they provide very wide true fields of view coupled with huge apparent fields of view not typically found in 8x(or 8.5x if you like) full sized binoculars. Once you start using 7x-8x, large apparent field, full sized binoculars then you immediately notice when the apparent field of view drops below what you are accustomed to.

Now, maybe I was not conveying my earlier comments clearly enough. My level of comfort when looking at a particular image is not entirely dependent on the apparent field of view level. What it is dependent upon is a variety of factors. If you take the view through the Promaster, for example, with its exceptionally bright, crisp centerfield (but with astigmatism in its outer edge) and you compare it with the view of something like the Meostar with an even wider true and apparent field of view and less edge distortion then I think most folks would come to the conclusion that the wider field of view with less edge distortion provides a more comfortable image (even though it may be a tad less sharp in the center)

In other words it isn't just the true/apparent field of view comparison that I am noticing but also the level of comfort based on the size of the sweet spot.
 
Frank,
I really didn't intend to start a fov hijack on the thread. Even a center field resolution, sweet spot sort of binocular viewer like me does indeed notice an AFOV difference at some point. I just tend to scratch my head and go ?????????????? when somebody tells me they can tell a difference in the view between a couple of degrees afov and a fov difference of less than 20'. Again, since I can't, that doesn't mean you (or Owen, or anybody else) can't or doesn't. I'm not telling anybody they don't see what they see.

This is just one of the things I had in my head for the post on the blind binocular test. Again we all like what we like and maybe sometimes we don't even know why we either like it or dislike it. A multitude of stuff has to come together with the viewer's eyes for a binocular to be really good.

I will also readily admit that there is a very strong possibility, even certainty, that one of the reasons the Promaster ELX appeals to me so much is in fact due to the afov, among its other attributes. Hey, give me a month with that Promaster, and maybe I'll be embarassed even to look back at my last few posts in this thread.

Now that I think about it, after I've had the Promaster for awhile, I'm going to have to get my hands on a Razor or Meostar to see if the field difference has become something I notice.
 
The area difference between 393 and 411 is about 10%. But the bigger issue is still the sweet spot (also best compared in terms of percent area).

Didn't someone (Ingrahim?) compare our normal vision "sweet spot" with that of typical binocs? It seems like it was said that we have around 10 degrees of focused vision. From that perspective, it's easier to see why small differences in sweet spot and/or FOV can be quite noticeable. It's a very subjective thing; apparently, we each have different tolerances on what feels cramped. Perhaps we have different normal vision sweet spots; perhaps wearing eyeglasses makes one more used to a constrained view(?).

APS
 
Steve, I wasn't referring to FOV, but AFOV. I can't tell much difference between bins with a variance of 20'(or quite a bit more, either) unless I target a neighbor's privacy fence ~150yds. away, and intentionally check it. Don't see how anybody could.

Not directly but statistically you could. The birds provide the random element.

If for example you are looking at birds that could be in any part of the field (say in flight in a flick or bouncing around a tree warbler-style) then the FOV is on balance going to find you more birds by movement in your peripheral vision that you then need to center on and use the magnification and sharpness to identify by field marks. So a wide field and center sharpness are two useful requirements.

Remember that you chance of finding a bird goes as the square of the linear field of view measurement. i.e. a mere change from 393 feet (7.5 degrees) to 430 feet (8.2 degrees) gives you a bigger visible area seen by the bin of 20% (sqr(8.2/7.5). In a random flock that's a 20% better chance of seeing a bird in the wider FOV than the narrower FOV.

You can even see this effect with a novice. I gave my wife the mediocre Winchester 8x32 (with 7.5 FOV) and for the first time she finds finding and tracking birds easy. For novice bins good FOV is a critical factor.

SteveC said:
I understand the concept of the apparent fov, but I sometimes think it is if no more value than twilight factor of relative brightness or something else that is defined by a mathematical relationship regardless of quality. Maybe I ought to go out and do some more serious consideration of the two, but since I don't place too much emphasis there I wonder if it would be of much value. I tend to look for resolution first, lack of edge distortion second, and fov last. Plus that strictly subjective impression my eyes give me. I personally will sacrifice some FOV for some resolution any day.

FOV is real, measurable and comparable between binoculars. Unlike the other measure you quote (which really are useless). And it has real impacts on the birding.

I'm rather the reverse of Steve. FOV is the start and I'm most likely to reject a bin on poor (narrow) FOV even if the other parameters are good.

Of course FOV and AFOV are coupled together too. A bigger FOV with a more magnification gives a bigger AFOV. This seems to be the design style at Vortex. Wide FOV with large AFOV at x8 gives the "big picture feel". I'm sure this is a selling point for their bins (I do like it but big AFOV is not my primary concern). I don't think I'd be happy with Pentax whose design style is narrower, flatter and more edge sharp fields of says 6 and a bit degrees in a 8x). Of course that might just be me.

Another feature that pops up hear is eye relief. Of course what's the point in having a great wide FOV unless I (the eyeglasses wearer) can see all of it. This is rather the problem say with Swift 820 (which I've not tried yet) that has a very wide FOV but a low effective eye relief (13mm usable; 17mm spec) so one doen't see the edge of field.

I find 7.5 degrees FOV is a minimum for me (around 400). Certainly below 6 degrees you both get a toilet roll effect in AFOV at any normal magnifications and you will find bbirds harder to track. One reason I like my (porro, inexpensive and sharp!) EO Raptors is that for 10x bins they have a decent FOV (and an OK eye relief so I see most but not all of it).

The final point is that all of these features are coupled together in the optical design. How do you trade them off against each other for a particaulr task. Birders bins (in general) are wide FOV and tolerate less sharp edges. Other users (perhaps in Japan) are less tolerant of those edges. How you trade off all of the many features (measurable like magnification, FOV, AFOV and less measurable (fraction of sharpfield, edge sharpness, field curvature, edge astigmatism and other distortions, pincushion, CA (transverse and lateral), stray light, transmission, aberrations, etc) depends on your model of the viewer.

So what is the perceptual model of a birder. AFAIK, that hasn't been published though some of the optical companies, most likely Zeiss, will have done work here (they've done it in their ophthalmic optics group for progressive addition lenses). For example acuity drops off away from the center of fixation (quite rapidly). How much to people sacade around the field rather than moving the bins? Do people respond faster to a wider FOV image? What is the impact of shake in a handheld bin (nice work at Cloudy Nights on this). What about acuity through the bin? You are limited by the eye's acuity so that increases in a handheld bin up to x10 but then the FOV drops generally as a magnification increases. So which helps you ID more birds? FOV or magnification? Then that probably depends on the habitat? I prefer Yosemites (x6) in the woodland and x10 Raptors at the shore.

All bins are compromises. They're even compromises on group different uses. And worse than that even in one use (birding) different compromises work better in different habitats. I think one can see why we might not agree on which is The Best Bin(tm)? But those that optimize most might have the best chase of pleasing the most customers.
 
APS
That makes sense and I think that might well be it. One of the things with lots of FOV (both flavors) is that the wider it gets the harder it gets to keep the outer field distortions minimal and the sweet spot maximal. It can be done, but it costs $$$$. About the best combination out there is the Zeiss FL 7x42 which is both wide angle @ 60* afov and wide fov @ 450'. It would be interesting to have some idea of what our typical focused vision is in relation to what our total field of vision is. That is basic information, I'm sure, but I don't know what it is. Mabybe somebody who does will chime in.

To try and keep this Promaster ELX related, I am not willing to come up with Zeiss $$$ when the Promaster quality of image is what it is at Promaster $$$. So when that price level gets to a difference of only 3*, that is good enough for me, especially considering the overall image atributes. Stretch the fov out at that price level, and the result may well be more outer field distortion with no more sweet spot, which can be a real annoyance, increased AFOV be darned.
 
APS
That makes sense and I think that might well be it. One of the things with lots of FOV (both flavors) is that the wider it gets the harder it gets to keep the outer field distortions minimal and the sweet spot maximal. It can be done, but it costs $$$$. About the best combination out there is the Zeiss FL 7x42 which is both wide angle @ 60* afov and wide fov @ 450'. It would be interesting to have some idea of what our typical focused vision is in relation to what our total field of vision is. That is basic information, I'm sure, but I don't know what it is. Mabybe somebody who does will chime in.

Sharp vision (foveal vision) is much narrower than you may think. See the graph here.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fovea

Your mind does a great job of integrating the small sharp patch of perhaps 6 degrees across at half acuity ... a tenth of the typical AFOV were talking about here (now that's a lack of edge sharpness ;) ). Your eyes saccade around the scene to pick up the details which your brain uses to generate your visual perception.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vision_span
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccade
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_perception

Surrounding the fovea is the macula which has cones at a lower density so provides lower resolution (as you can see from the curve I pointed to above).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macula

Surrounding that is mostly rods for monochrome vision wired to detect movement in the periphery of your visual field. These are the elements that see the bird moving so you can center the bins FOV on it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_field
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peripheral_vision

See these other pages for more general info on human vision and acuity for a bit more background:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_acuity
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_resolution#Ocular_resolution

Understanding how the human visual system works enables you to see why bins have some of the trade offs we see (and why people don't notice some of the problems like edge sharpness or the lack of it).

Apologies for the lack of direct Promaster content!
 
When I saw Frank's Promaster I thought:

1. The speed and overall feel of the focus is a dead ringer for the original EL 8.5X42. It must be a copy.
2. The centerfield is very sharp and a good start to a great view.
3. The glass formula seems to control CA fairly well.
4. The overall build quality seems above average.

I also wondered if...

an additional $500 would result in a $1000 EL clone. I have no idea what it costs to go from the Promaster level to the current EL level, but I have an inkling it can be done for under $1000.

John
 
Kevin,
Thanks for those links. I'll read them tonight.

Now, I do know that FOV is real, measurable and comparable. I evidently gave another impression. So many degrees FOV= so many feet FOV. That's pretty basic and I do get that (degrees field x 52.5= FOV). I also place a lot more faith in FOV rather than AFOV. AFOV seems to me to be a magnification favored specification (degrees of field x magnification = AFOV). It's easier to increase AFOV with magnification than degrees of view. Want more AFOV, get more magnification. Want higher twilight factor, get more magnification. Both are mathematical calculations based on magnification. I'd bet that may be part of the reason that 10x is the most popular magnification. Six degrees field @ 10x (Nikon Monarch) gives about the the same AFOV as 8.6 degrees field at 7x (Zeiss FL), with the latter having some 130' more FOV. I know which one would give me the feeling of looking at more territory and which one I could find more warblers in a tree with, which one would give me the most relaxed image, and it isn't the 10x.

It's been a long day, and I have a headache. Probably should have waited to post that.
 
Another point is to go back and rad (or read for the first time!) the huge Zeiss FL thread

It starts to get interesting in the mid-teen pages when people actually start looking through the bins ;)

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=13239&pp=25&page=16

Much arguing about edge sharpness and it's relevance (remeber to see edge sharpness you have to look off axis which actually moves your entrance pupil in an interesting way (off the axis as your eye's entrance pupil is not at the center of rotation) so it will tend to exaggerate aberations.

But it has some interesting comments. I particularly like Henry Links idea of describing the softness at a given angular value of the AFOV (30 degress from the center). This at least makes the view comparable between bins (but of course hides the sharpness across the real FOV)

http://www.birdforum.net/showpost.php?p=193186&postcount=390

Just an idea.
 
Sharp vision (foveal vision) is much narrower than you may think. See the graph here.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fovea

Your mind does a great job of integrating the small sharp patch of perhaps 6 degrees across at half acuity ... a tenth of the typical AFOV were talking about here (now that's a lack of edge sharpness ;) ). Your eyes saccade around the scene to pick up the details which your brain uses to generate your visual perception.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vision_span
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saccade
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_perception

Surrounding the fovea is the macula which has cones at a lower density so provides lower resolution (as you can see from the curve I pointed to above).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macula

Surrounding that is mostly rods for monochrome vision wired to detect movement in the periphery of your visual field. These are the elements that see the bird moving so you can center the bins FOV on it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_field
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peripheral_vision

See these other pages for more general info on human vision and acuity for a bit more background:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_acuity
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_resolution#Ocular_resolution

Understanding how the human visual system works enables you to see why bins have some of the trade offs we see (and why people don't notice some of the problems like edge sharpness or the lack of it).

Apologies for the lack of direct Promaster content!


Kevin, you are our official residence librarian on Birdforum! ;) Thanks a lot for posting these great links.
 
Henry;

I finally got my ELX ED back and set out to check the transmission. One problem, the reason I decided to try the ELX is that I did not have a 8x42 in my stock.

To try to keep the comparison within reason, I decided to base the comparisons on exit pupil and to do that I would have to make stops either for the ELX or comparison bins.

The needed stops were going to be:

8x32 Trinovid = 32mm
8x36 Monarch= 36mm
8x30 SLC = 30mm
12x50 Trinovid=33.3mm
7x42 Ultravid=36.75mm
10x42 Leupold=33.6mm (Don did test, no stop, ELX+)
8x50 Nikon Porro=42mm (Don did test, no stop, ELX+)
20x80 Swaro= 32mm (ATS HD 80 w/20x-60x eye piece)

The test did not get too far along though. After looking at the 8x32 Trinovid and 7x42 Ultravid, I had seen enough to form an opinion.

I cannot see as close a difference as Henry can. I feel lucky if I can differentiate between 5 or 10% transmission.

I expected more trouble than actually encountered with this checking process since I was looking to check a change of only 5% and the best estimate of JND generally accepted for the change in light intensity is 7.9% (Weber’s constant, see attachment).

Without the stops I figured there would be about 25% difference with the 7x42 on top and around 40% differences from the 8x32 Trinovids with the ELX ahead assuming equal transmission values. The values to be contended with were:

Trinovid 8x32, 550 nm 83.71% and peak 86.61 @ 679nm from professional run.
Ultravid 10x42, 550 nm 86.31% and peak 90.1 @ 600nm from Leica (typical).
Ultravid 8x20, 550 nm 88.28% and peak 92.7% @ 595nm from professional run.
Promaster ELX, 550nm 88.72% and peak 91.77% @ 606 from my measurements.

First I placed the 32mm stops on the ELX and look at a good, bright view area, sun behind me, so that I had very bright objects and deep, shadowed areas of contrast to compare. I could not tell any difference in the brightness by looking at this view at different times. Next, I stacked both binos on a tripod and pointed them at the north sky and elevated about 45 degrees. Doing this, I could see both exit pupils at the same time and in close proximity to each other. I also changed the position of the binos in the stack with the same results. The ELX showed a small, but noticeable, improvement over the 8x32 Trinovid and just guessing, the 5% seemed reasonable.

Next, I had a look at the same view with both the 7x42 Ultravid and ELX. The Ultravid was undoubtedly brighter. I attached the 36.75mm stops to the Ultravid to match the exit pupil of the ELX and looked at the view again and could tell no difference between them. I then stacked them on the tripod as before, pointed at the north sky, and inspected the exit pupils, reversed the position and inspected again. I could tell no difference between them.

After dark, when I went inside, I repeated the process for all three bins but this time I used a light table with enough ND filters under each bino to bring the light down to a very low level and inspected the exit pupils again, with the same results.

In conclusion, I have at least convinced myself that the transmission curve is representative and the ELX is, indeed, closer to the Ultravid than the Trinovid in light transmission, at least at my vision capabilities.

Best,
Ron
 

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FrankD;

While doing the tests above, I had a chance to examine the views of the two Leica’s to the ELX. If I had not had my hands on the binos I doubt if I could have told you which was which with the exception of the slightly (and could only see it on a white garage in the view) greater color bias of the Trinovid, they were that close. If there was a difference, it may have been that the Leica’s had a little better color saturation, but that may be brand loyalty. These views were with the sun behind me and a very non-challenging view. Look at the photo for size difference of the bins.

Next, I went to the patio behind the house to look at a view that has a few close trees, bird feeders, a picket fence about 70 yards away and then a thick woods about 150 yards away. I waited until 6:30 local time, so the sun was low and directly west of my position and just above the wooded area treetops.

Finally, a definitive difference to help justify the cost of my Leica’s. Looking west, with the sun just out of the FOV but directly over the line of sight, the light filled the ELX and almost completely washed out the view. I doubt if there was enough contrast to pick a bird up in the tree about 15 yards from me. Both Leica’s lost contrast too, but not nearly to the extent of the ELX, I could have made out a bird in the tree, still see all the fence posts from edge to edge of the picket fence, etc. All three recovered quickly as the angular separation was increased, the Leica’s about fully recovered from 15 or 20 degrees and the ELX about 30% greater. I will look into this over the weekend in greater detail to make sure it actually exists and, if so, to what extent.

Best,
Ron
 
Ron,

Thank you for posting your test results and the more subjective comparisons. I am glad to see some of my own opinions reinforced by your findings. I would tend to expect a little bit better color saturation on the Leicas as that is what they are most known for. As I had mentioned earlier I have compared the ELXs to both the 7x42 FL and the 8x32 SE. In my opinion the centerfield apparent sharpness was practically indistinguishable between the three bins in question. The edge sharpness was better on the SE and the brightness was better on the FL but that was practically the only differences in overall image quality between the three bins in question.

I look forward to hearing more of your comments.
 
promaster 8x32

I have been looking for a lightweight inexpensive 8x32 roof-prism for a long time and after reading these excellent reviews on promaster ELX I have to ask has anyone had a chance to use roff-prism promaster 8x32 and how would you rate them, are thay just as excellent?

Regards, buff.
 
Buff,

I almost took the plunge and ordered the 8x42 non-ED ELX but was talked into the Vortex Diamondback instead (long story). I, too, would be interested in hearing anyone who take the opportunity to try out the less expensive Promaster Elite model.
 
Actually I ordered the Diamondbacks from Doug, Tero. He talked me into them after I asked about the non-ED Promaster Elites. His take was that they provided practically identical performance but since he had the Diamondbacks in the Coyote Brown Blemished for only $130 (as compared to the $200 for the Promasters) then they were the better buy at the time.

And for what it is worth I am keeping the Diamondbacks. There are several reasons why (not the least of which being the price versus performance issue). For starters I think it makes alot of sense to consider your intent for buying the binoculars...as well as your expectations. I purchased the Diamondbacks with the thoughts of using it as my primary hunting binocular. With that intended use in mind I realized I did need the most tack sharp image nor necessarily the brightest image (though I wanted a 42 mm versus a 32 mm for the "just in case" type of scenario). I also wanted a bin that I could beat up on a bit and not worry about whether or not it was in perfect alignment all of the time. And, if there was ever a repair issue then I know Vortex will hook me up. They always have in the past...and quite well I might add.

I know you had the Diamondbacks but indulge me for a minute. I do not have the Monarchs on hand at the moment but the reason I am bringing them into this discussion is because they have often been considered the benchmark for $300 roof prism bins for the last several years. At the present time I believe there are several $300-$400 roof prism models that have surpassed their performance. I also believe that there are now several $200 roof prism bins that offer similar performance across the board and possibly increased performance in several areas. In my opinion the Diamondback is a perfect example. In comparison to the Monarchs the Diamondback have a significantly larger field of view (420 vs. 330 feet) along with a larger sweet spot. As I mentioned earlier I do not have the Monarchs on hand but I would be willing to bet that the Diamondbacks would also compare very favorably to them in terms of brightness and apparent sharpness level.

So for $130 I bought a fully-multicoated, phase coated, waterproof roof prism binocular that provides optical and "practical" performance way beyond my own personal expectations.
 
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There is no phase coating in porros, I think.*

I had the Diamondback 8x and a few 8x32s at the time. I compared them to my 40 and 42mm roofs, and the colors were not as bright, a slightly washed out view compared to my best at the time, including Zeiss. The Zeiss are gone for different reasons. I think I would be happy with the optics of a 8x40 Conquest, but I had the 10x. The eye cups and weight led me to hardly ever use them. I would grab the Monarchs. Lighter.

*Googled
Due to a roof prism’s optical design, the light entering a binocular’s image-erecting roof prism is split in two. The two halves travel through the prism independently and are rejoined before entering the eyepiece. Because the two light paths are slightly different lengths, one half of the light takes a little longer to travel through the prism than the other. When the two halves of the image are rejoined, the longer light path half is slightly out of phase with the light that took the shorter route. This can reinforce some colors of light and cancel out others, affecting the color balance and fidelity.
 
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