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Alternative spotting scopes (1 Viewer)

looksharp65

Well-known member
Sweden
Frankly, I wasn't sure where to post this thread but I reckon that most BF members will find it when posted here.

My collection of optics approaches perfection - maybe not in sheer optical quality but in terms of having the bases covered.
One of the more used items is my Nikon ED50A. It can't really be faulted and is the closest to perfection that such a little scope can come.

So, what could be done to escape boredom after having reached the point where improvements are only incremental?
Look for alternative solutions! What ways are there to buy or construct a decent compact spotting scope? This is what I have tried and/or considered:

1) Buy another new compact scope. Possibly, there are bargains out there but they all seem to be under the radar. Searching one would mean endless trials and errors, and postage costs would eliminate the cost benefit they offer.
This category also includes the Celestron 50 and 65 mm Maks and some Sibir and Yukon models. Not so funny, I guess.

2) Buy an old compact spotter like the Kowa 501 or a Russian 20x50 half-binocular. They indeed have charm, but could there really be any gems left undiscovered after decades and decades? Could they do better than category #1?

3) I am a little fascinated by the draw-tube scopes that become very compact when collapsed, in particular the Optolyth 25x70 XS.
They are, however, no bargain price-wise, and unlike the Fieldscopes their CA isn't quite negligible. Being more expensive than a used EDIIIA body and not water-proof, their charm fades too much. If just someone unaware of their value would throw them in to a pawn shop or a local advertisement site!

4) A doubler! My Bushnell Elite 2.5x makes my Nikon 8x30 E II an extremely compact 20x30 pocket scope with a very decent image quality.
There is some hassle with attaching it but the fit is quite secure.
It is also good with the 10x32 FL.

5) A front converter! I bought an Olympus TCON-17. When held in front of the 10x32 FL, it compares pretty well to the ED50 with 16x Wide DS.
The AFOV remains unchanged too. If the diameter of the back lens is smaller than the binocular's front lens, light loss occurs. This solution does not provide very much magnification and is not very compact.
Furthermore, obtaining a secure fit to the binocular could probably only be done with the Kowa 44 mm series that have a threaded connection in front of the objectives.

6) A telephoto lens with a special ocular like the Lens2Scope or one of its predecessors. Mine is the old Hama, similarly styled as the dicontinued Nikon telephoto converter.
I believe this method could produce some very nice results. My old Tokina 70-210 ED zoom is compact, easy to zoom and to focus and has quite decent image quality with the Hama ocular.

There are quite a lot of photography lenses in the 200 to 300 mm range out there.
A "short telephoto lens" for medium format photography should have enough back focus to enable homemade prism/ocular constructions to work properly.
Some of them are so stubby that I suspect they will need a short spacing tube too.

The optical quality of the better brands, especially with ED glass, should easily be able to challenge normal spotters, provided the eyepiece being used is a good one.
A nice advantage is that some of them also can be used for DSLR photography as is, and most of them with appropriate adapters.

Thoughts, anyone?
 
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Re the photo lenses, even modern ones suffer from a low transmission rate. This is true for the telephoto zoom lenses that have a lot of lens surfaces, but even ordinary, fixed telephoto lenses have lenses inside not found in binoculars or spotters - the telephoto group, I guess that is some sort of a built-in Barlow unit.

It is there to reduce the physical length of the lens. But since spotters and binos utilize a prism system for erecting the image, the telephoto group is unnecessary because the prism group also reduces the physical length of the scope.

It would be great fun to find an APO front cell and manufacture a draw-tube scope with dielectric roof prisms and interchangeable 1.25" eyepieces. Its focal length should be around 300 mm and the front lens 50-70 mm.

//L
 
Frankly, I wasn't sure where to post this thread but I reckon that most BF members will find it when posted here.

My collection of optics approaches perfection - maybe not in sheer optical quality but in terms of having the bases covered.
One of the more used items is my Nikon ED50A. It can't really be faulted and is the closest to perfection that such a little scope can come.

So, what could be done to escape boredom after having reached the point where improvements are only incremental?
Look for alternative solutions! What ways are there to buy or construct a decent compact spotting scope? This is what I have tried and/or considered:

1) Buy another new compact scope. Possibly, there are bargains out there but they all seem to be under the radar. Searching one would mean endless trials and errors, and postage costs would eliminate the cost benefit they offer.
This category also includes the Celestron 50 and 65 mm Maks and some Sibir and Yukon models. Not so funny, I guess.

2) Buy an old compact spotter like the Kowa 501 or a Russian 20x50 half-binocular. They indeed have charm, but could there really be any gems left undiscovered after decades and decades? Could they do better than category #1?

3) I am a little fascinated by the draw-tube scopes that become very compact when collapsed, in particular the Optolyth 25x70 XS.
They are, however, no bargain price-wise, and unlike the Fieldscopes their CA isn't quite negligible. Being more expensive than a used EDIIIA body and not water-proof, their charm fades too much. If just someone unaware of their value would throw them in to a pawn shop or a local advertisement site!

4) A doubler! My Bushnell Elite 2.5x makes my Nikon 8x30 E II an extremely compact 20x30 pocket scope with a very decent image quality.
There is some hassle with attaching it but the fit is quite secure.
It is also good with the 10x32 FL.

5) A front converter! I bought an Olympus TCON-17. When held in front of the 10x32 FL, it compares pretty well to the ED50 with 16x Wide DS.
The AFOV remains unchanged too. If the diameter of the back lens is smaller than the binocular's front lens, light loss occurs. This solution does not provide very much magnification and is not very compact.
Furthermore, obtaining a secure fit to the binocular could probably only be done with the Kowa 44 mm series that have a threaded connection in front of the objectives.

6) A telephoto lens with a special ocular like the Lens2Scope or one of its predecessors. Mine is the old Hama, similarly styled as the dicontinued Nikon telephoto converter.
I believe this method could produce some very nice results. My old Tokina 70-210 ED zoom is compact, easy to zoom and to focus and has quite decent image quality with the Hama ocular.

There are quite a lot of photography lenses in the 200 to 300 mm range out there.
A "short telephoto lens" for medium format photography should have enough back focus to enable homemade prism/ocular constructions to work properly.
Some of them are so stubby that I suspect they will need a short spacing tube too.

The optical quality of the better brands, especially with ED glass, should easily be able to challenge normal spotters, provided the eyepiece being used is a good one.
A nice advantage is that some of them also can be used for DSLR photography as is, and most of them with appropriate adapters.

Thoughts, anyone?

I have put together a short tube refractor using the objective from a Scout Yukon 30 x 50 spotter. Pin sharp within magnification limits and the design allows for 1.25" eyepieces. I believe the Yukon (Sibir) optics are sourced from Belarus.

rmel66.
 
I have put together a short tube refractor using the objective from a Scout Yukon 30 x 50 spotter. Pin sharp within magnification limits and the design allows for 1.25" eyepieces. I believe the Yukon (Sibir) optics are sourced from Belarus.

rmel66.

:t: How is the edge sharpness when you use the best eyepiece you can find?
Did you add erecting prisms or is the image upside-down?

//L
 
:t: How is the edge sharpness when you use the best eyepiece you can find?
Did you add erecting prisms or is the image upside-down?

//L

Edge sharpness is good, but I must add that the scope operates at less than 50 mm aperture given how far the focuser tube goes into the optical tube: at infinity focus the focuser tube is approximately 5 mm from the objective. This is equivalent to stopping down the lens so probably accounts for something.
I use a 45 degree Amici prism so I get an erect image.

rmel66.
 
Lars...There are many 65mm ED refractors now in the market ,that are sure alternatives to conventional scopes,and they could fill a niche in Your collection.. But I dont think they are that compact though,nor lightweight, at least not to compare with your ED50A..The gain in resolution and brightness would be at the expense of weight/size..(as always..)..and I am aware that you are aware of these scopes,so I would not go over again...
But there is one model that comes to my mind,and I know You actually would fancy It,,Is the Televue 60..Now that one,..Is for You...John Russell mentioned the Borg 60ED ,and that should be very nice too,but...White..I dont know..Hmm...The TV 60 is better looking..Inconspicuous too
Is VERY small..10 inch for the tube,,It doesn't have a Crawford style focuser ,with dual speed like most scopes in the class I earlier mentioned, But a drawtube for quick focus (pulling basically ..)and a helical fine-focus focuser.making it very slim..60mm APO doublet..360mm FL(f.6)..150X max magnification recommended by the manufacturer
I havent had a chance to try it,but always liked the idea of that scope, and I have read,not many, but really good reviews...It is a bit expensive new ,like most good things, but I see deals in Astromart ,now and then, and can be pretty affordable
 
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Thanks guys for your suggestions! :t:

Admittedly, my six alternative ideas differ a lot from each other. If pressed, I'd like to explain the abstract as follow:

1) Bargain in terms of price to performace ratio
2) Very compact for its performance
3) Clever solution, ultimately home-made

If the Optolyth 25x70 XS had ED glass AND a more decent price, it would have been very interesting to me. Especially since I fancy great AFOVs.

Borg? Sure, but then maybe the 45ED.

A seventh idea has come to my mind. I'm thinking about disassembling a Zen-Ray ZRS HD monocular to use the tube, the roof prism and the eyepiece but not the objective.
It makes the back part of a home-made draw-tube telescope. The front lens should be a 60 or 65 mm ED triplet, I think. The prism/eyepiece assembly should be possible to collimate by 3+3 screws that move the original tube inside a shell tube. This tube , in turn, slides into and out from the outermost tube part with the objective cell.

//L


Manuel, the TV 60, while being a nice astronomy scope, lacks the compactness I'm after. But it does indeed seem very impressive.

//L
 
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Borg? Sure, but then maybe the 45ED.

Lars,

Just speculating if you're thinking along these lines.
With this aperture you probably wouldn't want much more than 20x magnification but the choice of inexpensive WA eyepieces around 16 mm with comfortable eye relief is limited - a 17 mm Baader Hyperion might be a bit heavy.

Straight viewing, which would be ideal for use on a monopod is also a difficulty.
Televue used to offer a 1,25" Porro prism but unfortunately no more.

All in all, the ED50 looks like the best solution.

Regards,
John
 
John,

and I'm not looking to replace the ED50A, rather to find out if there's some way to achieve very decent performance from cheap, compact products or parts thereof.

The ideal magnification would be 25x (or 20x to 30x), and it will be supported by other means than the usual, often basically hand-held. (I can do that with the 27x50 Nikon).
Straight-through view is fine with me since it will diminish the outer dimensions of the scope and facilitate the rough aiming.
I really like great AFOVs so the modified Zen-Ray monocular/draw-tube might offer the best view. But what APO cells are there, and what's the expense?

At the other end of the scale, a Lens2Scope with a high-quality 200 mm or 300 mm lens would offer instantaneous performance at no risk. But its AFOV is not really glorious.

Then I'm thinking about the 30x50 Yukon draw-tube. It is very cheap, has CA and has fuzzy edges. What if the edges improve with a better eyepiece?

Anyhow, preparing for experiments is great fun!

//L
 
OK, plans have changed. In the long term planning I will try to build a Nikon fit scope converter that takes 1.25" eyepieces.
Since more than 20 years I own a nice little tele zoom, the Tokina 70-210 f/4-5.6 SD. It hasn't seen much use, is very compact and has a reputation of nearly zero CA. Since it is basically free, I think it's the best steampunk project I could go into.

However, I first have to pay the bargain scope just picked up. It is in fact a grey-bodied, Sony-branded Nikon Fieldscope III!

If you find the thread some kind of fun, please continue contributing to it.

//L
 
...There are many 65mm ED refractors now in the market
There sure are. And , I just used one to replace another "alternative" spotter.

Last year i purchased one of those Celestron C90 MAKs that they go for under $200 USD with a few accessories and a flimsy back pack. Got mine for under $150.Got it to use as a spotter (26mm plossl = 48x). VERY good, apart from bit of "glare", probably due to a not dark enough on the walls primary baffle. Was very happy with it.

Well, Finally got around to testing it's collimation and doing a star test (artifical star).:eek!: Looked at Jupiter with it that night, at 179x, :eek!:
Collimation was spot on, and it gave a very good star test. So it lost its day job and now works at night.

Wanted to replace it with something i already had if possible. I decided to use my Astro Tech AT66ED. It is a now out of production (replaced by a 72mm and now also, a 60mm one by the company) ED refractor. 66mm aperture, 400mm focal length. The ED lense element is O'Hara FPL-51. So it is not CA free but would probably beat the CA correction in most top end prismatic dedicated design spotters. ;) . To get a trace of CA with it, you gotta pump the mag up north of 100x.

I had never star tested it. Turned out to be very slightly out of collimation, with no adjustment capability at the lense cell end. So it was given the day job.

Used the 45 degree erecting diagonal from the same company and a Meade HD-60 12mm eyepiece. 33x, little over a 2mm exit pupil, 1.8 degree FOV. dual speed rotatable Crayford focuser. As described, and fully racked in, 17" long.

Performance is what you would expect. Excellent.:t:

Downside: Not waterproof. Perhaps a bit heavy for it's size, compared to the regular spotter of similar aperture. But i do not mind trading those for the top optical performance.:t:
 
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Jay, in fact I already have the Celestron C90 Mak 1250 mm. I use it with a Wiliam Optics dielectric star diagonal (90 degrees), a William Optics Swan 15 mm, a GSO Superview 20 mm and the supplied Plössl 32 mm. Those eyepieces work very well with this slow scope, but when I had the Pentax 65 mm scope, the GSO didn't reach infinity and the WO Swan had a severe curvature of field.

The scope offers sharp images but honestly they are quite dull. Since I bought the Nikon 82 mm I have rarely used it. Sometimes I boost the Nikon to 125x with a Bushnell Elite Doubler and find it usable.

The "alternative spotter" would preferably be some very compact thing. Maybe I'll just buy a Lens2Scope and try with the diminutive Tokina zoom, but that's somewhere in the distant future.

//L
 
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