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Recommendations for small alpha 10x32

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Old Sunday 21st April 2019, 23:01   #26
SeldomPerched
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Ok as it's a free for all, I'll make a constructive suggestion - Zeiss or Leica 8x20 compacts, some old versions can always be had used for around $100. Tiny, sharp. Useless in the dark probably, but who cares ...

Her's a typical example at random.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZEISS-Ferng...EAAOSwgOpcth6L

BTW, the new Trino and Ultravid in that size are also jewel-like but of course you pay inflation-adjusted prices :)

Edmund
Thank you, Edmund, but I did say that 32 (Ok 30 at a stretch) was the lower limit and that I did not get on with the Leica compact once I had tried something bigger - even though they are fine examples of workmanship.

By the way I'm very glad to hear your 7x42 has now started to show what it's capable of. About this time last year I was surprised how much degradation was caused by a thin layer of dust on front elements of a different pair of binoculars.

All the best,

Tom
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Old Sunday 21st April 2019, 23:01   #27
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Edmund,

I have a friend who has one of those Zeiss 8x20 Compacts shown above. It must be over 30 years old and it looks like it. He takes his Deer Hunting. AFAIK he has never got a deer.

It is a terrible binocular. The one shown above seems to be in good shape. He still has the papers for his so I suggested that he send it back to Zeiss for cleaning and if he got lucky maybe they would exchange it for a new Terra ED compact 8x25 binocular. He said he is going to keep his.

Bob

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Old Sunday 21st April 2019, 23:04   #28
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Originally Posted by Binastro View Post
Specifically for reading signposts, I have here a Broadhurst Clarkson 18x24 Hawk 3 drawtube scope.
Also a Tourist 10x30, very good central resolution but small field etc.

The Opticron 160 image stabilised monocular or similar, would cope with running pulse.

The 7x15 Nikon Porro isn't bad either.

A small compact 30x optical zoom IS camera would make short work of sign posts.
The Sony, I find is too small, but the Canon SX710 is ideal and gives 90% success results.
The Canon SX730 has a good 40x optical zoom.
Probably 3 or 4 seconds to get a good image.
Similar to a binocular or monocular.

It depends on how specific the task is.
Binastro, these are all unfamiliar to me and I'm going to have a look. If something you suggest fits the task and is lighter because it's not a BINocular that could be great.

Thank you,

Tom
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Old Monday 22nd April 2019, 14:45   #29
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Hi Tom,
There are various image stabilised monoculars from Viking, Bresser, (and Sunagor, which I personally wouldn't have), as well as Opticron.
They may weigh about 340g? They don't have great reviews but probably would work well reading signposts after stopping a run.
The Canon 10x30 IS Mk2 binocular is probably too heavy. The Canon 8x25 IS too fragile.

I use a Canon A720 IS camera without a case. It takes 1.6 seconds to get a good photo from the time I see the object I want to photograph. If I have to zoom it takes about 2.5 seconds. Only 6x optical zoom, but the same detail as a hand held 10x binocular.

The Canon SX 710 took maybe 3 to 4 seconds to photograph at 30x optical zoom.
I think that this and the 40x Canon zoom cameras are probably equivalent to a mounted 20x binocular or scope.
If used regularly I would put a screen protector and no case.

The Russian 10x30 Turist scope may be too large?
Also Russian 8-20x32 Scope.
The Hawk 18x24 probably 5 seconds to extend and view. Probably a bit dim except in bright sunshine.

I use a Docter 10x25 binocular, which is very tough. No case. Probably less than 2 seconds to view.

It depends if one wears glasses or not.
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Old Tuesday 23rd April 2019, 16:55   #30
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As for jitter, my current opinion is that some occurs with any binocular, and the resulting experience has more to do with the brain (which can be trained) than the hands.
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Originally Posted by Tringa45 View Post
So it's all in the mind and jitter is independent of magnification or physical exertion?
You may notice in the passage you just quoted that I said more to do, not all. Obviously there is some sort of practical limit to magnification at some point. But an amazing amount of what we call vision actually happens in the brain, and I do tire of pontification on what magnification can possibly be handheld, without taking learning into account or allowing time for it.

...Back to the topic at hand, if wider use than signpost-reading is eventually anticipated, a fuller-sized 32mm glass will be much more pleasant for use without eyeglasses than a compact.
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Old Tuesday 23rd April 2019, 17:28   #31
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I suggest checking out the Nikon MHG 10x30. It might surprise you.
Under 16 oz and a 363' FOV

If after that you think any performance difference adds up, get the Leicas at 2 1/2 times the price and 3 oz more
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Old Thursday 25th April 2019, 22:32   #32
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Hi Tom,
There are various image stabilised monoculars from Viking, Bresser, (and Sunagor, which I personally wouldn't have), as well as Opticron.
They may weigh about 340g? They don't have great reviews but probably would work well reading signposts after stopping a run.
The Canon 10x30 IS Mk2 binocular is probably too heavy. The Canon 8x25 IS too fragile.

I use a Canon A720 IS camera without a case. It takes 1.6 seconds to get a good photo from the time I see the object I want to photograph. If I have to zoom it takes about 2.5 seconds. Only 6x optical zoom, but the same detail as a hand held 10x binocular.

The Canon SX 710 took maybe 3 to 4 seconds to photograph at 30x optical zoom.
I think that this and the 40x Canon zoom cameras are probably equivalent to a mounted 20x binocular or scope.
If used regularly I would put a screen protector and no case.

The Russian 10x30 Turist scope may be too large?
Also Russian 8-20x32 Scope.
The Hawk 18x24 probably 5 seconds to extend and view. Probably a bit dim except in bright sunshine.

I use a Docter 10x25 binocular, which is very tough. No case. Probably less than 2 seconds to view.

It depends if one wears glasses or not.
I don't wear glasses when running as the space under the glasses confuses me and tends to lead to stumbling or even tripping up. Is Docter a rebranding/take over of Zeiss Jena/DDR?

Thanks for all your help with this.

Tom
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Old Thursday 25th April 2019, 22:46   #33
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Originally Posted by SeldomPerched View Post
I don't wear glasses when running as the space under the glasses confuses me and tends to lead to stumbling or even tripping up. Is Docter a rebranding/take over of Zeiss Jena/DDR?

Thanks for all your help with this.

Tom
Docter was connected to Zeiss a while back, but you should know Docter is finished making binoculars, back in 2017.

They did sell some roof prism models, not sure about them.

Docter was a true optics manufacturer, not just a clone seller of optics.

The Nobilem porro models are very good, as well as their astronomy line.

Jerry
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Old Friday 26th April 2019, 12:48   #34
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Originally Posted by SeldomPerched View Post
I don't wear glasses when running as the space under the glasses confuses me and tends to lead to stumbling or even tripping up. Is Docter a rebranding/take over of Zeiss Jena/DDR?

Thanks for all your help with this.

Tom
Tom,

I still think cheap and cheerful may have the design features you need. A transistor radio, not a pocket hi-fi :)

Edmund

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Old Friday 26th April 2019, 15:59   #35
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Maven Bs in 10x32 are awesome and would be perfect for your intended use. Extremely well made with excellent optics and lightweight.
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Old Saturday 27th April 2019, 06:32   #36
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Thanks to all of you for your interest and varied suggestions. As it's so fiddly typing on a phone - all I have to hand at the moment - I can't respond to you individually but you have given me some great suggestions and the information is all useful knowledge whether or not I take up the suggestions.

Tom
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Old Saturday 4th May 2019, 20:45   #37
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Originally Posted by NDhunter View Post
you should know Docter is finished making binoculars, back in 2017.
The current owners Noblex (since 2016) still have a small line-up of binoculars:
http://noblex-germany.com/index.php/...ism-binoculars
http://noblex-germany.com/index.php/...act-binoculars
They stopped using the Doctor Optik name about half a year ago.
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Old Sunday 5th May 2019, 07:46   #38
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You may notice in the passage you just quoted that I said more to do, not all. Obviously there is some sort of practical limit to magnification at some point. But an amazing amount of what we call vision actually happens in the brain, and I do tire of pontification on what magnification can possibly be handheld, without taking learning into account or allowing time for it.
I find bino shake comes from 3 sources: arm fatigue after holding the binos up to my eyes for an extended period of time, physical exertion to reach the observation site and the strength of any wind that is blowing.

The light emerging from a bino eyepiece is like light shining from a flashlight. In fact if you shine a light through your binos with the eyepiece aimed at a wall and then shake your hand just a tiny bit you can see that the light on the wall jitters about and this is how the image arrives at your retina when you are experiencing bino shakes.

I can hold a 15x56 steady for about a minute before fatigue-shakes arrive but not at all if I have exerted myself or if there is wind blowing.

Lee
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Old Sunday 5th May 2019, 13:19   #39
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Tom,

I still think cheap and cheerful may have the design features you need. A transistor radio, not a pocket hi-fi :)

Edmund
I think you are probably right!
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Old Thursday 23rd May 2019, 05:41   #40
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Tom
I own Leica UVHD+, Zeiss FL T*, Nikon EDGII, and SW SV FP all in 10x32. Given your stated preferences for smaller size and lighter, you can probably eliminate Nikon because of size and weight and Swaro because of size. Between Leica and Zeiss, Leica is noticeably more compact in actual use and carry. You won't get a sense of this size difference just reading the specs which appear on paper to be very close. Because the Leica is slightly heavier but overall more compact, it feels noticeably heavier in the hand to me than Zeiss but this is not a criticism. One other difference you may want to consider is ER which is 16mm in Zeiss and 13.2mm in Leica. This can make a big difference if you use or sometimes use glasses, the Zeiss will probably be better for you in that regard. However, teh Zeiss also has a much different focusing mechanism than the Leica. Not "better or worse" necessarily, but noticeably faster and stiffer, designed reportedly to "snap" into focus. Since your other bins are Leica the Zeiss focusing will probably take some practice for you to master. For me, all four are easier to hold steadier than 10x42 or 10x50. Because of the real difference in size and resulting perceived difference in weight if possible you should try/compare both to see whether you can hold one steadier than the other. For me, there is no noticeable difference in image shake between the two. One last thing, in certain difficult against the light conditions, the Leica controls glare better than the Zeiss in my experience. Hope this helps.

Mike
Hi Mike,
Just to say looking back over this topic and not having made a decision - it is not urgent and I will wait some time yet - that your thoughts will probably be what guides me most here. I'd love a 10x42 as well but I can't have everything though a forum like this makes it all too tempting to try!

Tom
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Old Thursday 23rd May 2019, 20:44   #41
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I'm looking for a 10x32.
This purchase would be specifically for reading signposts at a distance, looking for stiles etc while out on self-navigating multi-terrain long distance runs. But I'm after alpha not just because they give me more pleasure but also as the glass would soon enough get bird & wildlife use too.

I realize 10x32 is not the finest spec for a bright view. Also that Leica are among the dinkiest / most compact which matters to me when out running, with the limited storage capacity that entails.

What do you think? (10x25 or smaller is not a route I want to take.)
Hi Tom, I'm a short distance runner and a long distance hiker out here in the desert Southwest of the US. I did, in the past carry 8x32FL or 10x32BN on some longer distance trails, depending on where I was going. If I was going to the top of a plateau to spend the day or an overnight, sometimes they were worth the extra bulk and weight because I might sit down at an observation point or move from point to point within the same general area. These days, I carry a Canon 10x30IS II because I find that the benefit of a relatively good but still image, is more valuable to me than a near perfect image that's shaking around, made more difficult by elevated respiratory and heart rate as I'm hiking high altitude peaks or just moving briskly on flat ground.

In the case of same day, mileage hikes, were I may still want an optic to see trail signs, marker cairns, or to ID man-made structures or areas containing water, I found that my 10x25LX or 8x25CL made a huge difference in my willingness to pull out the optic and use it for brief looks. See, I used to keep the 32mm glass inside of the main body of a lightweight hydration pack because I couldn't comfortably carry them over distance any other way. With the 25mm glass, I can keep them in a front strap pocket or on the stretchy side pockets of my pack. I use them for those quick, specific looks and if I do stop for an extended break or to have a lunch, the 25mm format doesn't detract for me at all unless it's early light or the sun is setting. I will however miss the stabilization of the 10x32IS II but the 25mm is half the weight and bulk and more accessible.

With weight being so critical to comfort and distance, going to the 25mm has been one of the most liberating equipment changes that I've made in the last few years along with going to a lighter day pack. The best part, I don't feel like I've had to give anything up. With the Zeiss Victory 25's coming it at under 11oz I'm probably going to replace my 8x25CL at some point.

In any case, I respect your desire for a 32mm for the purposes you described but since I've been down that road and it wasn't ideal for me, I wanted to share my experiences.
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Old Friday 24th May 2019, 02:04   #42
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Patriot,
Nice post. I too sometimes prefer my Canon IS 12x36 III and sacrifice a little optical quality for a stabilized image. On other topics you mention, sounds like you pay a lot of attention to your gear and real world use. If you haven't already (but my guess is you have) a harness as opposed to a strap is a real plus for hiking even with 8x25 compacts - no swing or dangle, no fetching out of a pocket to look, etc. For heavier bins, the S4 Gear Lockdown X harness is the closest thing to an anti gravity device. Last year I used the Lockdown to carry Leica 10x50 UV+ up to the south rim of Big Bend NP and literally never noticed the weight. It may work better for certain body types though. Finally, while opinions/preferences differ, as you have discovered the benefits of a good 8x25, do try the Zeiss Pocket. I like the CL as well but much prefer the wider FOV and handling of the Zeiss.
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Old Sunday 26th May 2019, 06:12   #43
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Thanks mw. I am a bit of a gear enthusiast and about the only thing that I don't weigh carefully, before it goes into my pack is water...haha. It's not uncommon that I'll do a day hike with 4-5lbs of gear & snacks but have 10-12lbs of water, simply because I don't have the choice but to carry it.

Great recommendations on the harnesses! I've been using the camo S4 Lockdown since sometime in 2016. I use it for archery hunting and 3D courses mostly. While hiking with the 25mm bins, I've been using the RYO Ultra-Light Bino Harness and it holds them in place really well. With that stated, I still usually keep them in my hydration pack but accessible, not putting on the harness until I'm at my stop, destination or area of exploration.

All of the Canon IS binoculars are unbelievable in actual use. Besides the 10x30II, I'm on my second 10x42WP, and recently purchased the new 12x32. Many binocular enthusiasts have little understanding of just how much detail can be seen while hand held. Standing on the porch, I can hand my brother a 10x42EL and my Uncle (with older eyes) the 10x30II and ask both of them to count the rivets on the upper left arm of a power line tower at 150 yards and my brother strains a guess while my Uncle calls out "eight!" My brother says, "let me try those" and within seconds says, "I can't believe the difference that makes!" For the folks who are proud of how "steady" they can hold, I just pick out a smaller target and run the same experiment. I've even done it with a table full of optics in our hunting camp and included a mix of 8x's, 10x's, 12x Ultravid and a 15X SLC HD. Most of these people also have their own, very good binoculars but no one ever sees more detail with non-stabilized optics, while going up against the 10x30II or 10x42WP. They start cheating by squatting down or leaning against things, which prompts a lot of crap talk and guy banter, haha! Next time we do this, hopefully this summer, I'll have to take a video of the challenge and post a link here. The 12x's Canons of course do even better at bringing out small details and your 12x36III is fantastic at its price point! I can see why you would choose carry it at times!

Last edited by Patriot222 : Sunday 26th May 2019 at 06:14.
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Old Tuesday 28th May 2019, 20:56   #44
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Hi Tom, I'm a short distance runner and a long distance hiker out here in the desert Southwest of the US. I did, in the past carry 8x32FL or 10x32BN on some longer distance trails, depending on where I was going. If I was going to the top of a plateau to spend the day or an overnight, sometimes they were worth the extra bulk and weight because I might sit down at an observation point or move from point to point within the same general area. These days, I carry a Canon 10x30IS II because I find that the benefit of a relatively good but still image, is more valuable to me than a near perfect image that's shaking around, made more difficult by elevated respiratory and heart rate as I'm hiking high altitude peaks or just moving briskly on flat ground.

In the case of same day, mileage hikes, were I may still want an optic to see trail signs, marker cairns, or to ID man-made structures or areas containing water, I found that my 10x25LX or 8x25CL made a huge difference in my willingness to pull out the optic and use it for brief looks. See, I used to keep the 32mm glass inside of the main body of a lightweight hydration pack because I couldn't comfortably carry them over distance any other way. With the 25mm glass, I can keep them in a front strap pocket or on the stretchy side pockets of my pack. I use them for those quick, specific looks and if I do stop for an extended break or to have a lunch, the 25mm format doesn't detract for me at all unless it's early light or the sun is setting. I will however miss the stabilization of the 10x32IS II but the 25mm is half the weight and bulk and more accessible.

With weight being so critical to comfort and distance, going to the 25mm has been one of the most liberating equipment changes that I've made in the last few years along with going to a lighter day pack. The best part, I don't feel like I've had to give anything up. With the Zeiss Victory 25's coming it at under 11oz I'm probably going to replace my 8x25CL at some point.

In any case, I respect your desire for a 32mm for the purposes you described but since I've been down that road and it wasn't ideal for me, I wanted to share my experiences.
Hi Patriot,

What you say makes good sense and I find myself veering away from the 10x32 idea now. By the way, sorry it's taken me a while to catch up on the latest posts and write a reply. The other day I was on the hoof myself on a 20+ mile hike rather than running and quite a few times I thought how if I had binos with me they would have to be my old compact Trinovid 8x20 (away for a service after a pretty sheltered life since bought new in 1993). This for the same reasons you give - anything bigger wdn't fit in the front of my UD (Ultimate Direction) light-weight harness / day pack, and I hate having to come to a standstill to adjust kit, take out from the back, reclose etc unless it's strictly needed. So better to have something small that will at least get some use rather than something I decide to leave behind, which is exactly what I did on my recent hike - I decided even my 8x32 FL were too big to be suitable.

The idea of lower optical quality with IS is a great one too. I think for now as there have been a lot of binocular purchases recently - bigger glass unsuitable for this purpose but great for nature observation I will stick with what I have and put that Trinny to use. I had thought for a time it was just now what I used to think because I had got used to big glass quality; then I realized the collimation was out - no idea how it came about - and a £40 service by a Leica and Zeiss-trained technician has put it right, so when I collect they should be just great. An 8x25 wd probably be better or a 10x25 but first I'll see if I do OK with the 8x20BCA I have, now that the optics are back in order.

Thanks for your ideas; they get my vote!

Tom

Last edited by SeldomPerched : Tuesday 28th May 2019 at 21:01. Reason: Omission put right
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Old Tuesday 28th May 2019, 20:58   #45
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Thanks mw. I am a bit of a gear enthusiast and about the only thing that I don't weigh carefully, before it goes into my pack is water...haha. It's not uncommon that I'll do a day hike with 4-5lbs of gear & snacks but have 10-12lbs of water, simply because I don't have the choice but to carry it.

Great recommendations on the harnesses! I've been using the camo S4 Lockdown since sometime in 2016. I use it for archery hunting and 3D courses mostly. While hiking with the 25mm bins, I've been using the RYO Ultra-Light Bino Harness and it holds them in place really well. With that stated, I still usually keep them in my hydration pack but accessible, not putting on the harness until I'm at my stop, destination or area of exploration.

All of the Canon IS binoculars are unbelievable in actual use. Besides the 10x30II, I'm on my second 10x42WP, and recently purchased the new 12x32. Many binocular enthusiasts have little understanding of just how much detail can be seen while hand held. Standing on the porch, I can hand my brother a 10x42EL and my Uncle (with older eyes) the 10x30II and ask both of them to count the rivets on the upper left arm of a power line tower at 150 yards and my brother strains a guess while my Uncle calls out "eight!" My brother says, "let me try those" and within seconds says, "I can't believe the difference that makes!" For the folks who are proud of how "steady" they can hold, I just pick out a smaller target and run the same experiment. I've even done it with a table full of optics in our hunting camp and included a mix of 8x's, 10x's, 12x Ultravid and a 15X SLC HD. Most of these people also have their own, very good binoculars but no one ever sees more detail with non-stabilized optics, while going up against the 10x30II or 10x42WP. They start cheating by squatting down or leaning against things, which prompts a lot of crap talk and guy banter, haha! Next time we do this, hopefully this summer, I'll have to take a video of the challenge and post a link here. The 12x's Canons of course do even better at bringing out small details and your 12x36III is fantastic at its price point! I can see why you would choose carry it at times!
Following this with great interest....
Tom
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Old Tuesday 28th May 2019, 21:04   #46
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You may notice in the passage you just quoted that I said more to do, not all. Obviously there is some sort of practical limit to magnification at some point. But an amazing amount of what we call vision actually happens in the brain, and I do tire of pontification on what magnification can possibly be handheld, without taking learning into account or allowing time for it.

...Back to the topic at hand, if wider use than signpost-reading is eventually anticipated, a fuller-sized 32mm glass will be much more pleasant for use without eyeglasses than a compact.
Thank you.

Tom
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Old Wednesday 29th May 2019, 01:02   #47
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Patriot, MW and Seldom

A couple of suggestions for keeping binos readily accessible, while minimising the perceived weight . . .


A) For x20’s and x25’s, a pouch attached to the shoulder strap of a lightweight hydration or day pack is a possibility
(for safety if dropped, I combine it with a very thin strap long enough to wear around the neck, while the bino is in the pouch)


B) For the larger and heavier x30/x32’s, the Crooked Horn Bino Shield may be an option (see my recent post here: https://www.birdforum.net/showpost.p...6&postcount=10 )

I usually adjust a neck strap so that it is not much longer than necessary to place over my head
This places the bino (and the Bino Shield) at chest level verses the lower level in the Crooked Horn image
And this enables adjusting the Bino Shield so that it’s strap supports most of the weight

The Bino Shield avoids the complication and inconvenience of an X harness (either attached to a bino or a chest carrier), especially when used in conjunction with a pack and it’s harness
It also avoids the inconvenience of an X harness where the weather is such that you have to add/remove clothing

For the FL x32 or the Canon IS x30, you really need the small version of the Bino Shield, which is now a scarce item
Googling around, one possible source is Schnee’s (see: https://schnees.com/bino-shield/ )

For the Canon IS x32 or x36, the medium size is probably going to be necessary to accomodate their additional length
(the medium size is particularly adaptable, working well for both x40/42 roofs and Porros, and also my EL 12x50’s)


. . . a lot of these sort of choices come down to personal preference, but hopefully some food for thought

John
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Old Wednesday 29th May 2019, 02:38   #48
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Originally Posted by John A Roberts View Post
Patriot, MW and Seldom

A couple of suggestions for keeping binos readily accessible, while minimising the perceived weight . . .


B) For the larger and heavier x30/x32’s, the Crooked Horn Bino Shield may be an option (see my recent post here: https://www.birdforum.net/showpost.p...6&postcount=10 )

I usually adjust a neck strap so that it is not much longer than necessary to place over my head
This places the bino (and the Bino Shield) at chest level verses the lower level in the Crooked Horn image
And this enables adjusting the Bino Shield so that it’s strap supports most of the weight

The Bino Shield avoids the complication and inconvenience of an X harness (either attached to a bino or a chest carrier), especially when used in conjunction with a pack and it’s harness
It also avoids the inconvenience of an X harness where the weather is such that you have to add/remove clothing

For the FL x32 or the Canon IS x30, you really need the small version of the Bino Shield, which is now a scarce item
Googling around, one possible source is Schnee’s (see: https://schnees.com/bino-shield/


. . . a lot of these sort of choices come down to personal preference, but hopefully some food for thought

John
John,

Great information as always. The Bino Shield looks like good, versatile kit. Like you I prefer to carry high whether strap or harness. I'll start experimenting with shortening straps even more in accordance with your suggestions. On a related note, I did ask for you opinion on what size Bino Shield to best fit the Nikon E II 8x30 on the other recent post of yours referred to above. Thanks.

Mike
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Old Wednesday 29th May 2019, 04:30   #49
John A Roberts
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Hi Mike

The problem is that the listed sizings on the Crooked Horn page (see the image) are not at all clear when in comes to actual use

For instance, the Medium is listed as 7" h x 6" w - but it actually measures 8" h x 8" w across the front panel
(I’ve measured 2, and the dimensions are the same)
The Medium:
- will easily accommodate the width of a Nikon E 12x40 Porro - 5 1/2” h x 7” wide;
- but is nearly at it's height limit with an EL 12x50 roof prism - 7 1/4" h x 5 1/4" w (the added depth of the x50 body is taking up extra volume)

The Nikon EII 8x30 measures around 4 1/4" h x 6 1/2" w
So it will easily fit in the Medium, but that leaves a 3” gap at the top, which is . . . ‘inelegant’
(and although there’s a draw string/ lock on the rear, it doesn’t make any difference to the unused top section)

- - -
So the question is: ‘Will the Small - listed at 5” x 5” - be big enough for the EII?’

The only image I’ve seen is one from the Crooked Horn catalogue with a x32 Leica BA/BN
Since the Leica is around 4 1/2” wide, it looks like the 6 1/2” w EII will fit - but I’m not certain
If it does, it would be a far neater solution for the 8x30 EII than the Medium


John


p.s. in contrast to the possibility that the Small may not be wide enough for the EII, excess width is not a problem
- the strap around the body holds any unused material flat against the torso
so the Medium works well with the different shapes of the Nikon 12x40 Porro and the EL 12x50 roof (along with x40/42 roof prisms)
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Last edited by John A Roberts : Wednesday 29th May 2019 at 05:44.
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Old Thursday 30th May 2019, 02:55   #50
mwhogue
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Hi Mike


The Nikon EII 8x30 measures around 4 1/4" h x 6 1/2" w
So it will easily fit in the Medium, but that leaves a 3” gap at the top, which is . . . ‘inelegant’
(and although there’s a draw string/ lock on the rear, it doesn’t make any difference to the unused top section)

- - -
So the question is: ‘Will the Small - listed at 5” x 5” - be big enough for the EII?’

The only image I’ve seen is one from the Crooked Horn catalogue with a x32 Leica BA/BN
Since the Leica is around 4 1/2” wide, it looks like the 6 1/2” w EII will fit - but I’m not certain
If it does, it would be a far neater solution for the 8x30 EII than the Medium


John


p.s. in contrast to the possibility that the Small may not be wide enough for the EII, excess width is not a problem
- the strap around the body holds any unused material flat against the torso
so the Medium works well with the different shapes of the Nikon 12x40 Porro and the EL 12x50 roof (along with x40/42 roof prisms)
John

Thanks for the detailed follow up. My small Bino Shield is on the way. I will test it with the E II and various other smaller 32 bins with both straps and harnesses and report.

Mike
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