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Shape and color of Leitz-logo? (1 Viewer)

It's nice to hear that there is someone that's more into these binoculars than I am.

I brought my Trinovid to work today; to show off to my colleagues. I can tell you that the response was really good! Most of them could not believe that they were over 40 years old, and that the design was from yet another 10 years back in time.

But I also noticed another detail that seems to vary. The attachment points for the strap seems to come in 2 versions. The one I have seems to be a later version that allows any 10mm wide strap to be attached.

The previous version seems to have a more unique solution with strap-ends that hook onto two studs on the binocular.
http://ebayimages.foto-fina-shop.de/fotobrell/img2/13-240514-01.jpg
 
Etienne,

The studs-clips attachment for the strap was applied until +/- 1970.

Re. logos. Jan/Gary is largely correct in post #5, with this addition that you may find red dot logos with Wetzlar on them as well.

More important however are your questions/problems with respect to eye relief and eye cups. The rubber eye cup on your Leitz Trinovid model is the 10 mm type. It fits the short eye relief on your wide angle 8x32 but indeed, the eye lens gets smeared easily. On subsequent 8x32 models a 14 mm eye cup was used, solving the eye lashes-problem but for a price: FoV went down from 150 to 130 at 1000 m. I've tried all sorts of solutions to the eye cup-eye relief problem on the Trinovids and none were completely succesful. The best solution I found was to use an 18 mm eye cup (as applied on the 7x42) and use it rolled back. In this way you can adjust distance/height exactly to your liking while the larger diameter cup you've created fits your eye sockets quite nicely. Leitz' replacement eye cups are perfect because they're made of somewhat softer rubber than the original cups.

Renze
 
Here are some pics. It's convenient and more durable to store the binocular with eye cups up, then roll them down when the bins are used. In this way it's also possible to still make use of the original Leitz Trinovid rain cap (it doesn't fit with rolled down eye cups, but think about it, do you really want to?).

Renze
 

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Thanks for the info,
Good to know that the longer eyecups fit this version as well.

Iv'e noticed that if I I'm careful when taking up the Trinovid to my face the smear is minimal, but if i just by accudent add a bit too much pressure toward my face, the risk of smears increases significantly.

I get the impression that I could eliminate the problem with 1-2 millimeters more on the eyecups, not really to increase the distance t the eyes, but rather to have some more stiffnes. But I guess a rolled back 18mm eyecup would be better at this as well.

Like you can see on the first picture, the eyecups are pretty old and the top portion is almost at a 30-degree angle. First of all this results in less required force to "squash" the eyecup and bring the ocular lenses closer to my face. Secondly, the angle results in a small but not insignificant loss of distance. I'm wondering if a new set of original 10mm eyecups perhaps is enough for me to eliminate the issue... Although it's probably better do just do like you did and get the extra long ones in order to get some more playroom.

-

Do you by any chance know if the older style "non-floppy" eyecups (seem to be plastic, or very hard rubber) perhaps do the job better in this case? I would assume they don't deform much, if anything at all.
 
I'm wondering if a new set of original 10mm eyecups perhaps is enough for me to eliminate the issue... Although it's probably better do just do like you did and get the extra long ones in order to get some more playroom.

Do you by any chance know if the older style "non-floppy" eyecups (seem to be plastic, or very hard rubber) perhaps do the job better in this case? I would assume they don't deform much, if anything at all.

I expect you to find 10mm replacement eye cups too small in diameter, and this applies likewise to the older style plastic or hard rubber ones (which are less comfortable also). What's at stake in designing or modifying eye cups is that they not only have to give you the right distance to the eye lens but also the right diameter to give you support in your eye sockets or on the eyebrow. And these two things are related: often a bit more distance can be achieved by adding just a bit more diameter.

Renze
 
I expect you to find 10mm replacement eye cups too small in diameter, and this applies likewise to the older style plastic or hard rubber ones (which are less comfortable also).

often a bit more distance can be achieved by adding just a bit more diameter.

Ah, yes. This is a very important thing I have to to consider. Thanks for pointing it out. :)

I'll probably take your advice and look for a pair of 18mm replacements.
Do you by any chance know the article number of these? Just to ensure I get the correct version.
 
Thanks for the info,
Good to know that the longer eyecups fit this version as well.

Iv'e noticed that if I I'm careful when taking up the Trinovid to my face the smear is minimal, but if i just by accudent add a bit too much pressure toward my face, the risk of smears increases significantly.

I get the impression that I could eliminate the problem with 1-2 millimeters more on the eyecups, not really to increase the distance t the eyes, but rather to have some more stiffnes. But I guess a rolled back 18mm eyecup would be better at this as well.

Like you can see on the first picture, the eyecups are pretty old and the top portion is almost at a 30-degree angle. First of all this results in less required force to "squash" the eyecup and bring the ocular lenses closer to my face. Secondly, the angle results in a small but not insignificant loss of distance. I'm wondering if a new set of original 10mm eyecups perhaps is enough for me to eliminate the issue... Although it's probably better do just do like you did and get the extra long ones in order to get some more playroom.

-

Do you by any chance know if the older style "non-floppy" eyecups (seem to be plastic, or very hard rubber) perhaps do the job better in this case? I would assume they don't deform much, if anything at all.

Hej Etienne

You could try unscrewing the eyecups and putting rubber o-ring seals underneath them. Try out different thicknesses and this will give you 'longer' eyecups.
If you go to a seals stockist they will either want you to buy a big minimum quantity or they might be nice and give you some samples free of charge. Any rubber compound will be OK for this job but the most commonly available will be nitrile.
However a better place to try would be a plumbing dealer who keeps pipes and valves and spare parts to sell to the rörmokare. In the UK these places are very helpful and don't insist you buy big quantities.

Lee
 
Hi Lee,

I assume that I would have to add a circular washer as well?
If not, there will be an air gap between the perimeter of the ocular lens and rubber flange inside the eye cup...

The outer diameter of the eye cups (where they meet the rings with the specs.) is about 33.5mm, and the ocular lens is about 17mm.
 
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Hej Etienne

You could try unscrewing the eyecups and putting rubber o-ring seals underneath them. Try out different thicknesses and this will give you 'longer' eyecups.
If you go to a seals stockist they will either want you to buy a big minimum quantity or they might be nice and give you some samples free of charge. Any rubber compound will be OK for this job but the most commonly available will be nitrile.
However a better place to try would be a plumbing dealer who keeps pipes and valves and spare parts to sell to the rörmokare. In the UK these places are very helpful and don't insist you buy big quantities.

Lee

Troubador,

Good advice. The gain is only a few millimeters, but this might be just enough. The nice thing here is that the solution can be tried out without the rings and see if this helps.
Note that care should be taken to leave enough threading for the eye cups to be secured and not lose them accidentally.
On the picture you see an o-ring with exactly the right size, on the right tube a more home-made application, i.e. a small rubber elastic band. The binocular BTW is a 7x35 Bausch & Lomb, a true Trinovid copy.

Renze
 

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On the picture you see an o-ring with exactly the right size, on the right tube a more home-made application, i.e. a small rubber elastic band. The binocular BTW is a 7x35 Bausch & Lomb, a true Trinovid copy.

Did you do anything about the inside? Or perhaps it's a non-issue?
I guess it could be solved with an additional o-ring as well, but I would probably prefer a washer.
 
Hi Lee,

I assume that I would have to add a circular washer as well?
If not, there will be an air gap between the perimeter of the ocular lens and rubber flange inside the eye cup...

The outer diameter of the eye cups (where they meet the rings with the specs.) is about 33.5mm, and the ocular lens is about 17mm.

Hi
If I unscrew the eyecups on my wife's 1976 Trinnies and lift off the metal 'tube' with the writing on that sits underneath, as far as I can see there is nowhere for water to enter the bins. So AFAIK there should be no problems caused by putting a thin washer under the eyecup and it leaving a small gap between the eyecup and the ocular lens.
As Renze has said you can unscrew the eyecups a little and see if this solves the problem first, before you buy any o-rings. Also Renze gave good advice about making sure that you have enough thread left to screw the eyecup onto. Bear in mind that you will want to tighten the eyecup down a little so it will squash the o-ring so you need an o-ring with a cross-section a little bigger than the eyecup extension that you want to achieve.
Good luck.

Lee
 
Yeah, I just gave it a try, and it may actually be enough.

And I have some O-rings in different dimensions laying around some were so I can test this with everything tightened (although no washers).

What i'm concerned about would just be dirt being deposited under the eye cup.
From what I can see on my example;

1. is what the looks like without an eye cup.

2. is what it looks like with the eye cup assembled normally

3. is what you are suggesting
But my concern is the gap that appears around the ocular lens. It's very big gap on my example at least.

4. is probably what I would try to arrange if i decide to go for the solution in the long run.
 

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Well, I gave it a proper try and it actually seems like it's enough. I need about 1,5mm, and that's basically what I can squeeze in there and still get enough thread-turn to feel safe.

This was a very good tip! :)

I'll order some O-rings off ebay at once, or even better if i can find something with a square profile!
Anyhow, normal O-rings are dirt cheap and cost 1$ each from Bohemia seal: http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/bohemia_seal

-

I also ordered these as a "plan B".
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171844576714 (Also very cheap...)
 
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A later run of the 6x24 was produced for the American market due to high demand for this model. The binoculars from this later production run carried the round logo. Gary.

To add some data to the discussion, I have a rectangular-logo 6x24 with snap-stud strap lugs (#712nnn), and also a round-(black)-logo 6x24 with open rectangular strap lugs and (short) B-type eyepieces (#775nnn). Both are in superb condition and provide a very "immersive" view.
 
Ive got a 6x24 #710xxx....nice optics and that nostalgic yet modern look....my wife loves them....I usually end up using the 8x32 model..#727xxx...also nice...both have Leitz/Wetzlar logo in the rectangle....... for birding/nature watching if you feel you need better optics you have fallen victim to promotional advertising hype....just sayin...... to tell the truth these are the newest Leitz/Leica bins I own....

I also use the Leitz poros from the 50s and early 60s once and a while....for a purely back to the past trip...

Have newer optics but different brands....Zeiss, Minox, Docter, as well as some 50s 60s vintage Swarovski poros....as well as some vintage Japan made stuff.....way to many...
 
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Etiennef;
How did those universal eyecups work out??.....

I actually went for the O-ring solution for this Trinovid. The extra 1,5mm or so is sufficient to avoid eyelash smears in most cases.

It was a bit fiddly to get them on since you have to keep them in position while you tighten the original eye cups. If they fold over themselves, or lose their alignment half way through tightening, you basically have to start over... But once tightened and in place they stay put and look good!
I also included an extra pair of smaller o-rings to ensure that no dirt can come in under the eye cups from around the ocular lenses.

-

The other option with "custom" eye cups I used on my other Trinovid (the one that's getting a new skin!). I'll update that thread with my progress very soon!
 

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