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Fuji F30 - mixed thoughts.

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Old Tuesday 23rd January 2007, 18:59   #76
john-henry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feathered one
Have been thinking how I can adapt the tripod or monopod, to be able to use for digiscoping, while sat in the car. I can foresee lots of missed chances of pictures if I cant use it from the car.
I know you can get clamps that fit on the window, but being in a hire car, I do not want to chance breaking the window glass. Could be very easy to operate the electric window by mistake etc.

Malc
Malc, if you've got a tripod where the legs will swing out freely (or at several positions with locking stops) you can usually rig it up on the passenger side OK, one leg in the footwell, one against the door or just to the right of it and one either between the seats or around the handbrake area. I drive around all the time abroad in this position and just fit the scope to it when necessary. If your tripod has struts connected to the centre column try undoing them and see if this works out.

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Old Tuesday 23rd January 2007, 20:23   #77
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I think from memory the Scopetronix EZ-Pix 1 doesn't all0w the F30 to get as close to the eyepiece as the SRB-Griturn adapter so it possibly would eliminate the vignetting too. I hope to replace my deceased F30 soon and I'll test it out on that adapter. Neil.
Neil, I was just being a little facetious, it goes to prove what I said in a resent post, (another look at the 600 series) about having the correct setup, every adapter, camera, scope combination, are not necessarally the best. Ernie
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Old Tuesday 23rd January 2007, 21:36   #78
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Thank you John

Yes I have the Manfrotto 055mfv. and you can lock the legs in several positions, so will try that as well, making sure that the "other half" is sat in the back seat.

Which reminds me I should have made her a cup of tea about an hour ago. Dog house again !!! and it's freezing out.

Malc
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Old Wednesday 24th January 2007, 11:55   #79
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Has anyone on BF got any actual experience of using a Fuji F30 with either a Swaro ATS 65 or ATS 80 and how are you doing?

I had a frustrating time in Exeter yesterday trying many different slim compacts and none of them seemed to be anywhere as good as the Coolpix 4500 which is a drag as I am sick of the 'chunkiness' of the Coolpix 4500 and long for a super slim compact I can slip in my pocket as well as make for greater portability when going out on the bus or abroad.
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Old Wednesday 24th January 2007, 12:40   #80
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Andrew,
Have a look at this thread http://www.birdforum.net/showthread....0&page=3&pp=25 which uses the Swarovski STS80HD and the F30. As you can see from all the other threads on the F30 it's the main model being discussed at the moment, although not the only one. The main thing you miss after the CP4500 is the rotatable screen but the screen itself is a big improvement and it's speed blows the 4500 away. Neil.
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Old Wednesday 24th January 2007, 13:22   #81
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[quote=Feathered one]Benderloch

In an earlier post you wrote................

"At 54 yrs of age, maybe life is too short to struggle with the wrong equipment and I should get an F30 before I go... "

Did you get one!. As I guess it will be superceded soon, not sure how long they keep production up.

Not yet! I am still deliberating. As I am off to the Algarve in 4 weeks I had better make my mind up soon! Meanwhile I am playing with the Fuji F440 I bought my wife to see if it is better than the old Olympus C4000. From some other posts I get the impression one can use the F30 in timer and continuous modes together. Is this true? If so, it looks to be ideal. Ace cameras are singing the praises of the Sony W70 but I don't think its burst mode is as good as the F30.
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Old Wednesday 24th January 2007, 15:51   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew
Has anyone on BF got any actual experience of using a Fuji F30 with either a Swaro ATS 65 or ATS 80 and how are you doing?

I had a frustrating time in Exeter yesterday trying many different slim compacts and none of them seemed to be anywhere as good as the Coolpix 4500 which is a drag as I am sick of the 'chunkiness' of the Coolpix 4500 and long for a super slim compact I can slip in my pocket as well as make for greater portability when going out on the bus or abroad.
My sentiments exactly and I am using the cp 990.
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Old Wednesday 24th January 2007, 21:03   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil
Andrew,
Have a look at this thread http://www.birdforum.net/showthread....0&page=3&pp=25 which uses the Swarovski STS80HD and the F30. As you can see from all the other threads on the F30 it's the main model being discussed at the moment, although not the only one. The main thing you miss after the CP4500 is the rotatable screen but the screen itself is a big improvement and it's speed blows the 4500 away. Neil.
Thanks for the heads up. I read several threads last night and got quite muddled up. I shall look this one up again. I have a feelign I did not try the F30 so may need to go back to the shop.
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Old Wednesday 24th January 2007, 22:38   #84
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Benderloch, The F30 can be used in timer and continuous modes simultaneously (it has 3 variations within this mode; continuous, final 3 and top 3), although it only works with the top 3 option.
Effectively it takes 3 shots each time you set the timer, though obviously there is a delay of about 7 seconds each time when the camera's buffer is saving the images. It can be a toss-up when you're in a hurry between just shooting in normal mode (I use the A/S Aperture-shutter priority mostly), or, if there's more time and you want to try for a steadier shot, using the timer/continuous- top 3 combination.
I've had the F30 now for about 3 weeks, and like it a lot, but there are some weaknesses. Although it's fast in some ways (autofocus and start-up for eg), there is no way of saving your favourite settings (except for the ISO number) as I can do on my Canon A95, so each time you switch on you need to spend a few seconds setting up the camera for the conditions you are shooting in. Obviously this costs valuable time! Even if you switch to review mode to look back at your pictures, then back to shooting mode, you have to re-set all options except for the ISO again.

IMO it's best suited, to the kind of photography where you set up and spend a while actually taking photos rather than birding on the move. To use it hand-held you would need some kind of plastic tube to hold the camera at the right distance, to avoid collision with the eyepiece glass.
I was using it at a gull-roost the other day, in dark/windy conditions, and managed to get some acceptable record-shots at ISO1600 and 3200. No way could I have got anything at all with my A95 in those conditions!
As for the lack of rotatable screen, this is not a major problem to me (with an angled scope). I am used to using a rotating screen on the A95, and don't really miss it on the F30, though there are situations where it's invaluable. Also the screen itself is large, clear and easy to focus with.

Andrew, you should have no problems at all with the Swaro 65 or 80 using this camera. That's what I use (with both the zoom, and 30XW), and vignetting is not an issue. As for a super-slim compact for birding on-the move, you could do a lot worse than look at the Samsung NV3. There's been quite a lot written on here about it recently, and one of the best features for your needs is the lack of protruding zoom lens (hence, no need for an adapter). Costs about the same as the F30 too.
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Old Thursday 25th January 2007, 08:10   #85
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Hi,

One of the areas for discussion in this thread is the problem of over-enthusiastic in-camera sharpening etc..... which came up when I was looking to buy my Panasonic FZ7 a few months back - it may be that many of the same issues apply equally to other camera brands.

General consensus seemed to be to turn these off/way down and to post-process in the computer where more control is available.

This forum was quite a valuable source of info

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/se...um=1033&page=4


Rgds... Ruby
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Old Thursday 25th January 2007, 18:02   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveClifton
Andrew, you should have no problems at all with the Swaro 65 or 80 using this camera. That's what I use (with both the zoom, and 30XW), and vignetting is not an issue. As for a super-slim compact for birding on-the move, you could do a lot worse than look at the Samsung NV3. There's been quite a lot written on here about it recently, and one of the best features for your needs is the lack of protruding zoom lens (hence, no need for an adapter). Costs about the same as the F30 too.
Hi Steve,

I had my heart set on that Samsung NV3 but had real difficulty making it work on my Swaro ATS65 in the shop which was a real blow.

Cheers,
Andrew.
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Old Thursday 25th January 2007, 18:41   #87
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Andrew, that surprises me, as my brother uses one on a Swaro 80HD, and has no problems at all. He won't mind me saying he's not into creating works of art with it, just quality record shots. He finds the zoom easier to use than the 30XW. Perhaps you should try it again. If I didn't have the F30, that's probably what I would have bought.
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Old Thursday 25th January 2007, 21:05   #88
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Hmmm, might go back and have another try.
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Old Saturday 3rd February 2007, 21:24   #89
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F30 - Pumed Whistling Duck

Taken in Queensland, Australia. (Plumed Whistling Duck Dendrocygna cytoni)

Details................ Leica APO 62 -zoom eyepiece set at x24
Camera Fuji F30 - ISO 800 - Aperature priority - centre exposure - F8 at 1/1000 - camera hand-held to eyepiece - weather bright overcast - EV -2/3 - original under exposed eventhough EXIF said over-exposed - Tripod - last 3 continuous mode - all other settings default mode.
Slight 'tweaking' in PS CS2.

Terry Dillon
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Old Saturday 3rd February 2007, 22:11   #90
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An excellent image, there is some expected noise from the Iso 800, but it is certainly not detrimental to the overall image. Great DOF. Ernie
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Old Sunday 4th February 2007, 04:48   #91
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Terry,
Very nice image. Did you try other than f8 to check Depth-of-Field differences?
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Old Sunday 4th February 2007, 08:21   #92
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Re FUJI F30 Plumed Whistle Duck

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil
Terry,
Very nice image. Did you try other than f8 to check Depth-of-Field differences?
Neil.
Neil
Did not try any other aperatures. Had the camera only for about 10 days so was concentrating on high speeds /ISO to offset camera shake as I'm hand holding to the eyepiece. As it happens the results were underexposed a little so could have tried a wider aperature. Will try variations on aperature and ISO when my adapter arrives. Quite impressed with the lack of 'noise' at high ISO's compared with my previous camera (CP4500) where max ISO for minimum noise was 100.
Thanks for your comments

Terry D
Gold Coast
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Old Wednesday 7th February 2007, 22:48   #93
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Managed to get out and take a few pics in sunshine on Monday (7th), been very few chances with the weather lately. We all know how good the F30 is in poor light, but what about in good sunshine?

Well, the main problem noticed was how quick the whites were blown, not having spot metering doesn't help but it's one of the things we have to find ways around, mine is to give plenty of -EV and use the History Brush in Photoshop. I find doing this can make a great difference to the finished pic. On the good side this can be done without having to worry about an increase in noise levels.

The F30 can produce good images in bright sunlight as well as poor light but a little more care is needed in the exposure. To illustrate what I'm getting at I've put two pics below, the first is the original only cropped to 7"x5" at 100ppi and saved for web, the second is the finished pic with Levels adjusted several times, in small stages, using the History Brush in between each stage, USM applied, cropped to 7"x5" and saved for web.

The reason for this post is there seems so many F30 users at the moment asking how their pics can be improved that I thought I'd mention one technique that helps. I'm no expert in Photoshop, there may be better ways of doing it and maybe someone with a bit more expertise will post their methods!

The main thing is to keep taking plenty of shots and experiment with Photoshop etc. until you hit on something you like the results of.

Regards

John

PS. the F30 does have spot metering and I have a very bad memory.
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Old Thursday 8th February 2007, 00:26   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john-henry
Managed to get out and take a few pics in sunshine on Monday (7th), been very few chances with the weather lately. We all know how good the F30 is in poor light, but what about in good sunshine?

Well, the main problem noticed was how quick the whites were blown, not having spot metering doesn't help but it's one of the things we have to find ways around, mine is to give plenty of -EV and use the History Brush in Photoshop. I find doing this can make a great difference to the finished pic. On the good side this can be done without having to worry about an increase in noise levels.

The F30 can produce good images in bright sunlight as well as poor light but a little more care is needed in the exposure. To illustrate what I'm getting at I've put two pics below, the first is the original only cropped to 7"x5" at 100ppi and saved for web, the second is the finished pic with Levels adjusted several times, in small stages, using the History Brush in between each stage, USM applied, cropped to 7"x5" and saved for web.

The reason for this post is there seems so many F30 users at the moment asking how their pics can be improved that I thought I'd mention one technique that helps. I'm no expert in Photoshop, there may be better ways of doing it and maybe someone with a bit more expertise will post their methods!

The main thing is to keep taking plenty of shots and experiment with Photoshop etc. until you hit on something you like the results of.

Regards

John

John

A different method of post processing in Photoshop.

On the original go to...........

Image - Adjustments - Shadow/Highlights

Quite a lot of control on this menu - it does help minimize 'burnt-out' highlights although if they are really burnt nothing will recover them. I tend to under expose the original to prevent this in certain pics, (Black & White birds would be the hardest). I suppose its a case of 'expose for the highlights and take care of the shadows later'
Assuming everything else is OK (Colour balance, Saturation etc) finally use the Lab method of USM (Smart Sharpen).
I took the liberty of using your originals as an example of this method...........

Pic A Your original
Pic B Your modified original
Pic C The above method using your original

Hope this gives you something else to think about!

Terry Dillon
Gold Coast
Australia
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Old Thursday 8th February 2007, 00:33   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john-henry
Managed to get out and take a few pics in sunshine on Monday (7th), been very few chances with the weather lately. We all know how good the F30 is in poor light, but what about in good sunshine?

Well, the main problem noticed was how quick the whites were blown, not having spot metering doesn't help but it's one of the things we have to find ways around, mine is to give plenty of -EV and use the History Brush in Photoshop. I find doing this can make a great difference to the finished pic. On the good side this can be done without having to worry about an increase in noise levels.

The F30 can produce good images in bright sunlight as well as poor light but a little more care is needed in the exposure. To illustrate what I'm getting at I've put two pics below, the first is the original only cropped to 7"x5" at 100ppi and saved for web, the second is the finished pic with Levels adjusted several times, in small stages, using the History Brush in between each stage, USM applied, cropped to 7"x5" and saved for web.

The reason for this post is there seems so many F30 users at the moment asking how their pics can be improved that I thought I'd mention one technique that helps. I'm no expert in Photoshop, there may be better ways of doing it and maybe someone with a bit more expertise will post their methods!

The main thing is to keep taking plenty of shots and experiment with Photoshop etc. until you hit on something you like the results of.

Regards

John

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Old Thursday 8th February 2007, 09:16   #96
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The F30 has a spot metering mode - but in the case shown the subject is small relative to the remainder of the scene, so some further adjustment would be needed.
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Old Thursday 8th February 2007, 12:37   #97
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I echo John's sentiments regarding whites in bright sunlight. I've found the F30 to be a bit sensitive in exposure range and I find I need to adjust exposure comp on the fly - sometimes to -2 EV. However, its great to be able to bump up the f/stop to 8 and still shoot at 1/750 or 1/1000 sec. at 200 ISO.
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Old Thursday 8th February 2007, 14:40   #98
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Originally Posted by scampo
The F30 has a spot metering mode - but in the case shown the subject is small relative to the remainder of the scene, so some further adjustment would be needed.
Yes, you're absolutely right Steve, I keep forgetting it's spot metering and centre focus, old age creeping in!

Regards

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Old Thursday 8th February 2007, 14:54   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsdillon
John

A different method of post processing in Photoshop.

On the original go to...........

Image - Adjustments - Shadow/Highlights

Quite a lot of control on this menu - it does help minimize 'burnt-out' highlights although if they are really burnt nothing will recover them. I tend to under expose the original to prevent this in certain pics, (Black & White birds would be the hardest). I suppose its a case of 'expose for the highlights and take care of the shadows later'
Assuming everything else is OK (Colour balance, Saturation etc) finally use the Lab method of USM (Smart Sharpen).
I took the liberty of using your originals as an example of this method...........

Pic A Your original
Pic B Your modified original
Pic C The above method using your original

Hope this gives you something else to think about!

Terry Dillon
Gold Coast
Australia
Hi Terry,
Very nicely done, obviously there are many ways to achieve the same end but it's a case of using what you've got, in my case Photoshop7, which unfortunately doesn't have shadow/highlights.

Do you know if there is a plug-in of this for PS7?

Many thanks

John
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Old Thursday 8th February 2007, 16:31   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john-henry
Photoshop7, which unfortunately doesn't have shadow/highlights. Do you know if there is a plug-in of this for PS7?
Not exactly shadow/highlights, but the contrast mask plugin here might be worth a try :
http://www.photo-plugins.com/Plugins...rast-Mask.html
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