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SDB777

Active member
Not sure where to start? So here is the first light:
digiscoped001.jpg

This photo is absolutely untouched, other then moving it from the camera into the hard drive and on to PhotoBucket for posting. Camera was set to "Marco Mode", White Balance is on "Auto"...... I had plenty of time, this Mockingbird sits on this post for hours! Focused the scope at 20x and attached the camera and zoomed in to get rid of the vignetting. Autofocus for the MarcoMode sharpened it up in the viewfinder and "CLICK"....this is what I ended up with.

Times have got pretty tough as of lately, no money for 'extras' equals 'you take what you are given'! Here is the equipment list:
Nikon Coolpix L20set on 10sec timer
Baraska 20-60x spotting scope and their adaptor
Tripod is an old Manfrotto(can't even remember or read the model number on it) but she's good and steady!

What happened? Is the scope bad? Is the camera bad?
Anyone that would like to throw some ideas at me, it would be most appreciated!



Scott (getting depressed now) B
 
If this was taken on a hot day there may be a lot of atmospheric distortion, you will never get a clean pic in these circumstances.

My camera for digiscoping is set to underexpose by half a stop (sometimes more is needed, I'd have probably used 1 stop under for this pic), to stop the whites burning out.

A cable release with the camera on burst mode is far more use than the self timer.

I always expect to discard at least 90% of digiscoped pics, so if you take ten you may get one keeper, if this bird is as accomodating as you say, just get back out there and rattle off a whole load.
 
Thanks for the very fast replies!

Lenses all clean.....check!
Hot day...............not really what I'd call HOT for central Arkansas-lower 80*F's
Will reset for underexposure by -1/2stop(thanks for the tip-I'd read it somewhere before, but failed to do it)
Cable release........not an option for me(well the camera at least)
The 10% keepers..I could only hope or that ratio at this time, I've got 35 more to add to the one above! No keepers!!


Anything else guys/gals?



Scott (going to keep at it) B
 
Scott,

Focus is off, if you look at the twig in the right corner it is in better focus than the bird.
Try using spot on the bird only. Also what you see for focus through the scope is different than what the camera sees.

I focus the scope through the monitor with the camera telephoto set and then let the camera fine focus, when the camera has locked on I finish pressing the release. I have to disagree with one out of 10 comment since I get better than 80 percent.

Joe
 
Scott
So many different things could be creating this image.

Things that stand out initially

1)Quality of glass in the scope.
2)The camera has no ability to be used in a semi manual mode (essential in most cases)
3)The subject is off centre (camera unable to decide what to focus on)
4)Distance to subject
5)How much zoom applied to camera and eyepiece (again critical)

A little more info on these points would help narrow down further.

I put together a page on settings for digiscoping on this link.

http://www.wildrossendale.co.uk/Digiscoping.html

Don't give up as if you get chance check some of the early pictures in my gallery (Magpie and Wren) here on Birdforum and see what difference a little bit of experience, trial and error and of course....expense on gadgets can make.
 
Scott,
Don't give up yet.
I checked the Exif
"Image Orientation: Top, Left-Hand
Vertical Resolution: 300 dpi
Image Created: 2009:09:05 15:00:19
Exposure Time: 1/64 sec
F-Number: f/4.8
Exposure Program: Normal Program
ISO Speed Rating: 64
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Metering Mode: Pattern
Light Source: Unknown
Flash: No Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length: 14.90 mm
Color Space Information: sRGB
Image Width: 3648
Image Height: 2736
Rendering: Normal
Exposure Mode: Auto
Scene Capture Type: Landscape
Gain Control: None
Contrast: Normal
Sharpness: Normal
Subject Distance Range: Unknown
Color Mode: COLOR
Image Quality: FINE
White Balance: AUTO
Image Sharpening: AUTO
Focus Mode: AF-S
ISO Selection: AUTO
Image Adjustment: NORMAL
Lens Adapter: OFF
Auto Focus: Center
Shooting/Bracketing Mode: Single Frame/Off
Scene Mode: LAND SCAPE
Saturation: Normal
Noise Reduction: OFF "

and noticed you were in LANDSCAPE MODE. This will give you high F stop and lower shutter speed. Don't use Scene Mode, just normal and Macro and Spot Focus/Spot Exposure.
You can check focus by switching on Digital Focus in the Menu and zooming into it to check the fine focus and then zooming back out again.
The quality of your scope is not good enough to give good results over long distances or poor light so try and get a bit closer and don't zoom the camera lens too much.
There may have been some wind shaking the tripod too so try hanging a small weight to the center column.
Persaverence will improve your results, Neil.

ps I forgot to mention set -0.7 compensation for Nikons
 
Thank you Neil!!

I just turned the camera back and and indeed the camera has been changed to Scene...could have sworn that it was in Macro. Thanks for the tip on EV setting! I'll start watching the EXIF data, and making some notes on what works and more so, doesn't work.


I really know that the glass is sub-standard, but it's all I can use(afford) for right now. I had some hopes of getting a Nikon Prostaff, but things have changed at work...and turning in a two weeks notice puts a pinch on the wallet.

I'm not giving up...photography is something that makes me forget about the crappy things in life!!




Scott (thanks so much) B
 
Had a few moments yesterday where the clouds opened up and gave me a little light. With Neil's tips, I was sure to make sure the Macro was set and got the following:
DSCN0048.jpg


Lots of vignetting, but that's okay...I stayed in the "Green Zone" and hoped for some better focusing(not quite there).
I believe this gives me something to work towards.....



Scott (thanks for the help) B
 
Hello Scott:

I find that the largest single factor in my image quality is heat
distortion, even in Ohio. I now check out and qualify my
equipment well after dark using quartz lamp illumination. It is
good to scope at about 100 feet distance over lawn.

You had expressed some desire for better glass. You can get
an Orion (or Skywatcher) 80ED, 600mm OTA for less than $500.
They are well reviewed for optical quality. Of course this scope
is heavier than the typical birding scope. I also like to use a
selection of Prime Baadar Hyperion fixed focal length eyepieces.
They have screw mount tops and, a large eyelens, and 20 mm of
eyerelief. I use the 5, 8, 13, 17, and 24mm units. They have a
20mm eye relief and digiscope well. I think the non-zoom
eyepieces work much better. Their cost is moderate at $119 each.

I am not familiar with your camera, but assume it is OK. I like to
use a Lumix LX3, but there are special conditions for mounting and
use without snubbing into the eyelens. (See LX3 posts in another
forum subject and the image) A very low cost camera, but good
for digiscoping, is the Canon A-590 which you may have to buy
used at this time. Both of these cameras have an adapter tube that
screws directly on to the Baadar eyepieces. (With step rings) Let us
know how you are doing. Gene
 
Last edited:
How far away was the bird? I have had to reassess my views on the maximum distance for good shots down significantly to 30 meters or so.

Michael.
 
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