which tripod/head combination (1 Viewer)

Hi all, I have the nikon d3100 with a sigma 150-500mm lens. Up untill now its been sat on a cheap ballhead tripod (£30). I mainly handhold but thats because of the cheap tripod. Anyway now that I have my camera kit, my hide and my location Im now in search of a tripod and head. The head I have in mind is the Lensmaster RH2 ? but tripod wise Im still not sure, I would say roughly £300 is my budget.
If anyone can offer any advice it,s much appreciated
Thanks
Paul

I use the Lensmaster RH1 for my 300 F2.8 (a fair bit heavier) and find it pretty good. It is a little cheaper (but not much!) but it IS lighter and this may be more important.
As to tripods, I use a Gitzo 2531 but this is not in budget.
Although your lens is pretty light it has quite a long focal length so you need a rigid tripod that damps vibration well. A friend of mine has one of these: http://www.globaltechcommerce.co.uk/feisoluk/24-ct-3342-tournament.html#/section_type-rapid - he is pretty happy with it and it does a good job with my 300 F2.8, even with extenders.

I use two options if I'm walking and weight is a factor I have a Manfrotto 055CX PRO and a Lensmaster RH1 The second and prefered option is a Gitzo 3530 LS (no longer made) and a Jobo Black Widow which I have found every bit as good as a Wimberly.
The first option is cheaper and lighter and with care supports my D800+ 500f4 or 200-400. Hope this helps

Before you make any decisions, read this article by Thom Hogan.
http://www.bythom.com/support.htm

There are three parts to a system - legs, head, and plates.

For plates, go with the generic Arca Swiss plates. These are the standard across the industry and will keep you from having to replace plates as part of future changes. Stay away from proprietary plates that lock you into a specific brand. There are lots of companies that make Arca Swiss style plates for your camera body and long lenses. If you buy a camera plate that is specific to your camera, the fit is better and it tends not to work its way loose - but it is more expensive than a generic plate. On a budget you could start with just a flat generic plate to attach your camera to your ballhead, but you might want a camera specific plate later.

The tripod head makes a big difference in your satisfaction with your gear. A good ballhead is expensive - but its a buy it once item. In the US, a good ballhead runs $325-400. I have been using Really Right Stuff BH-55 ballhead since my first ballhead. They are well made and worth the added cost. The Markins ballheads are a good value - I like the Q10. And there are others like Arca Swiss that make good ballheads. Good ballheads maintain their value - if you ever want to sell it you can probably get 70-80% of your purchase price.
https://www.photoproshop.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/10/products_id/28/language/en

Tripod legs are also important. To a large extent its one of those cases where you get what you pay for. You want a tripod that supports plenty of weight - well over your current gear. I'd look for something that holds 15-25 pounds. Gitzo 3 series carbon fiber tripods are the standard by which others are measured. If you need to save money, aluminum legs are a lot cheaper - 35% lower in the Gitzo line. And there are some other good brands that save money. I like the Feisol line, and Induro makes some good tripods. Manfrotto is an option but they also have a number of cheap tripods. Something like the Manfrotto 055XPROB is not too expensive and probably adequate for your needs. The Manfrotto runs $190 US and is on sale for $155. The Feisol and Induro 3 series CF equivalents run $400-450 US - about 2/3 their Gitzo counterparts. Like ballheads, tripods have good resale value.

If you are going to save money and possibly upgrade later, spend what it takes on a good ballhead and cut corners a little on legs. I know this is going a little beyond your budget - but read the article from Thom Hogan again.

thanks for the replies guys, I,m a bit lost on it at the moment TBH. Dont the lensmaster sit straight on top of the tripod?, i was under the impression it did. Heres my shortlist, Manfrotto 190xprob &804rc2 head (and a lensmaster) total £300. Manfrotto )055xprob legs only £135 plus lensmaster and decide what head for normal use later. I usually walk miles on the weekend but just as happy sitting in a hide also so weight isnt a factor really.Its the lensmaster im after more than anything as im watching kestrels and peregrines and red kites, I have always taken shots of them hand held but i think this gimbal head will improve my shots. One thing I cant get my head round is vr on my lenses switch on for hand held but off for tripod. Ok but if the VR enables me to go one or two stops more than normal then do i lose that on a tripod? at the end of the day im trying to capture birds in flight so still not sure what route to take. (but have taken a shine to the lensmaster)

As far as legs are concerned, don't choose the Manfrotto 190 over the 055. There is a significant difference - especially with a longer lens.

VR is normally turned off when your tripod is locked down on a tripod, but if you are shooting loosely and moving around for birds in flight, etc. the VR should still be turned on. Also note that VR adds little or not value above 1/500 sec. and for birds you typically want 1/1000 sec. Birds are remarkably twitchy, and for some species - like ducks - you need even faster shutter speeds. VR does little to help you with subject motion - its for camera motion.

brrttpaul said:

thanks for the replies guys, I,m a bit lost on it at the moment TBH. Dont the lensmaster sit straight on top of the tripod?,

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Yes. you are right the Lensmaster Gimbal sits on top of the tripod - you do not use/need a ballhead with it.

ericbowles said:

VR is normally turned off when your tripod is locked down on a tripod.

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This is correct for a lot of stabilised lenses, I do not know about Nikon but with a Canon telephoto IS lens release since the year 2000 it is beneficial to keep IS on even when locked down on a good tripod and head. What happens is the IS system is tripod sensing and it goes into a secondary IS mode which helps with mirror slap and vibrations.