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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

I saw an old thread on this Sky-Watcher 80ED (1 Viewer)

SeattleDan

Well-known member
This seems to be the least expensive but minimally sufficient scope I've been able to find.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/735549-REG/Sky_Watcher_S11100_S11100_Pro_80ED_APO.html

Will this do?

I like having a goal with a number attached to it. It helps me visualize, as well as budget.

I have more questions as well.

1. If I opt for an Astro type scope, and as I stated in another thread, I use filters and other glass, will stepping up in objective lens to 90mm be helpful, regarding the light reduction? Will that size simply be too unwieldy? I know it's almost cost prohibitive.

2. Is it possible to somewhat "weatherize" an Astro scope? In the Northwest U.S., we have considerable weather challenges... not unlike the U.K..

3. If I opt for a DSLR as opposed to a micro 4/3rds, as I have been thinking, will mirror movement, negatively effect the crispness of the photo? If I use MLU (mirror lock up feature), will it be impossible to take multiple frames in rapid succession, for example, in flight? So you all just put it in "live view" and go?

4. If perchance, I experience a financial windfall (it sometimes happens), would it make better sense to opt for fpl-53 on decent glass, as opposed to, the more delicate, high priced fluorite crystal?

thanks ya'all - any input is welcome
 
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Stepping up in size to 90mm would let in more light but if the F number is the same as the 80mm scope then shutter speeds are going to be the same. Something like a William Optics Megrez 90 springs to mind, 621mm focal length at F6.9 is slightly better than the F7.5 of the 600mm 80ED. To get any real gain out of a 90mm scope you would need to drop down to maybe 550mm or 500mm and there's a few around with ED glass.

As for rain proofing I'm not sure of any commercially available products but I haven't looked. I guess if there wasn't then it wouldn't be too hard to find something. Not sure what is available for big prime lenses but something for them might be adaptable. Covering the scope in camo tape would keep out some rain. Then you only really need to waterproof the rear end where the camera and focuser are.

Personally I use MLU for static birds, I never use Live View and for birds in flight I just track them and have the camera set to continuous shutter. When I have the funds and I see a camera I like then I will make the jump to a mirrorless camera. I just think it's the logical way to go.

I think FPL-53 is so good that I don't see the need for the higher priced glass. I don't think you would gain enough to warrant the cost.

Paul.
 
As well as editing to add... I edited to delete... "i'll wager that Paul C., the Mighty Steward of Bird Forum, will have the perfect answer." And, so he did. Thank you, for helping me, while I sort this stuff out, Paul.

I don't know if "rain proof" is as much the idea as "rain resistance," so the camo-plastic wrap fits the bill.

So, by tracking birds in flight and setting to "continuous shutter" the mirror stays up? I liked your flying swans very much, but I was talking to another scoper, that said, the vibration of the shutter is an issue, when trying to get the fine detail. Remember, I'm a "compleate idiot." In this corner of the forums, everyone seems to be enamored of DSLRs.

Thanks especially for the advice in the first paragraph of your response. In a previous thread, another BFer, said that given budgetary restraints, if I must prioritize, then the scope should take precedence, as cameras are improving constantly. I'm leaning toward micro-4/3rds, but wanted to hear from ya'all on the topic. The smaller sensor seems to dissuade some of you, but with our subject matter, it seems to me like it's just a "non-issue." I still don't know. This is the first I've heard someone say this.

I get also, that an appropriate astro-scope, with it's focal length, glass quality, larger eyepiece; all enhance general performance. (there are just some weight and field use, restrictions).

I must say, Sir, I like your "whatever works," attitude, natural curiosity, and disdain for money, substituting for knowledge. I'm a "bubble gum and baling wire" kind of a guy that doesn't believe in standing in a queue at the Bank of America, for anyone's holy permission to conduct commerce.

I don't have your curiosity, but I respect it. I am not courageous, but I make a discipline out of not letting things, (or people), intimidate me.

I have a lovely perch on this river, with an impressive bird population (it's not the Everglades, but it will do). I'm a certified "old guy" now, and by hook or by crook, I'm going to learn how to photograph these birds. I wonder, "where were they all my life?" There's a little rooster of a hummingbird, that perches below my window where I work, guarding his realm. Sometimes, I swear, he's laughing at me.
 
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I think it's only within the last 6 months that mirrorless cameras have started to get anywhere near the quality of a dslr. I think that's why we still stick with them. I wont get another dslr though, it will definitely be mirrorless. I'm mainly waiting for one with low noise at the higher ISO's. I liike to shoot at ISO800 or above and the dslr can handle that easily. I'm not sure where the micro 4/3 cameras are in this respect but I think it will take another generation of cameras before they become an attractive option.

As far as birds in flight, the shutter speed is usually so high that it's easy to freeze frame them. The mirror doesn't stay up but because the background is usually bright sky the shutter speed will be around 1/1500 or 1/2000, maybe more and that means the mirror going up and down will have no effect. Plus you are holding the camera as you pan the scope around so there is no effect from vibration. The only time the mirror action has an effect is when you remotely operate the shutter on the tripod. This causes a slight bounce and using the MLU will counteract that. If I'm holding the camera I can still get sharp images at 1/25, all you need is a steady hand. :)

I tend to use the scope at 600mm for birds in flight, no teleconverters. This gives the high shutter speed and enough field of view to see the bird and to track it. Birds flying 90° to you are easiest to track and get in focus where as birds coming at you or away from you are harder. If I see a bird in the distance then I'll second guess roughly where I think it's going to fly past so that I can have the scope already roughly focused on that point. Also if you know you are mainly going after flight shots then it's best to have done a few practice photos so that shutter speeds etc are already worked out. That way it's not a big panic when you do things in a hurry. I've had a ton of practice and can find the bird in flight, be focused on it and dial in the shutter speed in just a couple of seconds. After a while I find you can just point the scope at something and it will be in the viewfinder.

Paul.
 
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonicdmcg3/11

I was checking that out, and looks as if the G3 meets your ISO criterion. I don't really understand what I'm looking at, but thought you might get something out of this graph comparison chart, regarding ISO performance, and the impact of noise suppression in the G3 higher speeds.

I'm baffled. I have a friend that took some photography classes in school, that's been explaining some of the physics of optics, but the math is over my head. I just dig birds.
 
I don't think it needs clarification - but: micro-4/3s sensor are exact the same as "regular" four thirds. And not that much smaller than aps-c, as many might think.

Don't have the money, but would love to try out Olympus new OM-D. early reviews looks promising. Til then, my E-3 has more to give.
 
Dan, perhaps you can consider this http://www.optcorp.com/product.aspx?pid=6270 . Look around and you'll find more and maybe even cheaper. This one share the small glass, spec and manufacturer as the SW80ED and Celestron C80ED. The main difference between this and the SW80ED you linked is the focuser and diagonal (not needed for photography). Google around and you'll find good quality used ones or new ones at lower price. These 3 scopes are the best value for money and as Paul had always stressed, enough for our purpose.

A senior management guy with a big camera company once told me to stick to the APSC sensor camera as that where most research goes in and it will be the best performing sensor and value.

Paul, I have just replaced my older A550 with another used A550 at no extra cost, just to keep me going until the ideal camera comes out. The NEX 5N gives a jump in IQ and ISO but I am not ready yet to give up the VF viewing as against LCD viewing. Guess it's time for me to learn shooting in Live View in preparation for the migration. The NEX 7 just cost too much at the moment.
 
The NEX 5N gives a jump in IQ and ISO but I am not ready yet to give up the VF viewing as against LCD viewing. Guess it's time for me to learn shooting in Live View in preparation for the migration. The NEX 7 just cost too much at the moment.

Personally I think I'd only look at cameras with a good EVF. I don't think I'd be happy having to use the lcd.

Paul.
 
Remirath: That's a sweet little unit. My deck is well covered but I may do some outings, and it's very moist up here. Thanks

Steve: That's a neat setup. Is it hard to use with a camera on it... for panning while tracking movement? I live in a Valley full of sheetmetal shops. Everyone I know has worked for Boeing or a Sub, at one point, including myself. While, I'm tool light, we'll get it done when the time comes. I was thinking that a sliding platform for balance, and an extension on the hand control, might make a video tripod, more useable, while dealing with the camera/scope assembly, in use.
 
Dan, It is not bad finding and pointing this set up, once balanced works really good. I will admit it is a pain to go from 90° diagonal to camera, you have to lower the tripod for the diagonal. My Celestron 80ED is a little nicer to use on this, but I like the reach of the 100ED. A fellow at work gave me the piece of aluminium and the rings came with the 100ED. I bought it used, well traded a binocular for it. The 501 head has some adj. for balance as well. The tripod is a older 475 tripod [3236]
 
Dan,

First pics, doing some "digis" to shorebirds. The last two with the Lenscoat cover over the SW80 (one as spotting scope and the other with D90 attached)

Cheers! B :)
 

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I had to Google Earth "Galicia." I have to say, I'm grateful to live where I do. I get a lot of species, from where I sit at my desk. It looks like you're really "working" for it. That's a nice setup. I will want to see your photos. I like the arm ports... very nice.
 
There is an Orion 80ED on Cloudy Nights for $400 shipped, out of the box once or twice. No mounting rings.


Dan there is a scope the same as your link on your first post on Astromart for $395 plus shipping. It now costs a little when you first join Astromart, $11 or $12 I think.
This is still not sold. Sat. morning and is the same things as the link. Geez I am talking myself into getting it.;) I have a C80ED.
 
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